Angle grinder doesn’t work anymore Causes
According to statistics, most cases of failure of the angle grinder are related to the electrical part of the machine. Some failures may be minor, which allows you to repair the angle grinder with your own hands. But, for example, when the burnout of the motor windings repair angle grinder can make only a specialist.
the angle grinder does not turn on
Causes of the fact that the angle grinder does not turn on, may be the following:
- the electrical plug is faulty;
- The electrical cable is defective;
- the start button is broken;
- The contact between the power cable and the button is broken;
- breakage of the brush contact wire;
- Heavy wear and tear of the electric brushes;
- rotor or stator winding failure.
the angle grinder does not develop speed
The causes of the fact that the angle grinder does not pick up speed, can be different.
- Failure of the speed control unit. To check this hypothesis it is necessary to connect the motor of the device directly, without the regulator and check the operation of the device.
- Electric cable failure due to permanent kinks or mechanical damage. This may cause the damaged wire to become warm under load and the engine speed to drop.
- Dust on the collector. The contamination must be removed with alcohol.
- Problems with the brushes. They may be worn out or have a short contact wire as shown in the following photo.
Brushes may be half worn out, but are still serviceable. A short contact wire prevents the spring from pressing the electrode against the collector. This situation can also be the reason why the angle grinder does not operate normally.
The electric motor is heating
The angle grinder can be hot due to the following causes.
- Improper operation of the machine. As a result of overloading, the motor can become very hot, which often causes the windings to burn out.
- Destruction of bearings on the armature. Rotor clings to stator, motor cannot work properly and windings overheat. The problem can be solved by replacing the bearings.
- Clogging of ventilation ducts through which the air for cooling the motor enters. The ventilation openings must be cleaned of dust.
- Breakage of the impeller used for cooling the motor. It is mounted on the rotor, on the opposite side from the manifold. If the impeller is broken, it must be replaced with a new one.
- Inter-turn short circuits in the stator and rotor windings. You need to rewind the coils or replace these parts with new ones.
The angle grinder sparks
If you notice a strong sparking when the angle grinder is turned on in the area where the collector is located, this problem may be caused by.
- Armature winding damage: breakage of one or more winding sections, inter-twist connections. At such failures there is an increased noise, the engine rpm drops and brushes burn.
- The contact between the collector plates and the winding is broken.
- Poor brush pressure. Under prolonged use of the angle grinder, the springs overheat and can “anneal” and lose their elasticity.
- Unbalanced motor rotor.
- Cylindrical surface disruption of the collector. This sometimes occurs after rewinding if the armature is not turned on the lathe and immediately installed in the machine. You may also observe that the brushes are sparking excessively.
- There is a fault in the insulation between the lamellae of the collector. There may also be graphite blockage in the grooves of the track or a breakdown between the lamellae.
- Worn bearings causing rotor run-out also causes brushes to spark strongly.
- Breach of armature shaft geometry. This usually occurs if the motor is not carefully disassembled and the shaft is bent.
- The wrong brand of graphite brushes are installed. Brushes selected according to expected speed and voltage.
- Lifting one or more blades causes the brushes to burn out quickly. This happens because the motor overheats in continuous operation. As a result, the glass mass that serves as the base of the collector softens and the blades begin to rise. Because the blades are raised, the brushes wear down very quickly.
Gearbox of angle grinder is a mechanical part of power tool angle grinder. It transmits the rotation of the electric motor rotor to the working tool. Power comes from the mains supply for plate grinders. The gearbox usually consists of a helical gear pair with a decreasing ratio in order to provide the necessary RPM of the working tool.
Hello there. I saw this post about the angle grinder and disk on wood and decided to add my story to the piggy bank.
Who has read my posts may realize that I used to work as a taxi driver, and worked on my truck, and now I work as an ambulance driver.
I do not remember exactly what year it was. But I think 2017 or 2018. But not the point.
my truck is not a truck. And such an ordinary Japanese three-ton truck with a booth. Last place I worked. I was delivering beer to stores and bars.There was a step at the back of the van so it was easy to get up inside. But over a period of time of all the backward movements to all sorts of ramps. The micro-impacts created a crack in the step mount and as a consequence it broke off. Well, I’m a handy man sometimes handy. I have a welder, an angle grinder, but. Not having experience how to weld all this and such began to do. In general the welding helmet was available (at least I guessed something, my eyes remember bunnies from my childhood). Cleaned it up, welded it on. And I decided to use an angle grinder to remove the excess scale so it would look nice. So I lay down on my back under the car, and I start to grind the dross gently. Everything seemed to go smoothly. But something got in the eye. And I’m like that I tried to rinse with water. Didn’t help. I came home, I look in the mirror and I see a little dot in my right eye, right on the iris. So I thought maybe if I scratched something, it would go away. I didn’t tell anyone. I went to bed.
In the morning my eye is irritated, but I’m still sure it’s just me scratching, coke washed my eye. Then my wife was like, what’s with you, and then my mother (apparently, as she felt she had called). As a result, when they heard my story, they kicked me into the trauma room.
There’s always a line at the trauma room. Who with a leg, an arm, a cut, a sprain, et cetera. I’m the only one with an eye. I waited in line and went in. I explained my story to the trauma surgeon. He looks at me and says: “Young man, you’re not for me, and at the end of the corridor to the right an ophthalmologist’s office.”I’m sorry. Leaving. There was no line at the right place.
A girl took me in. After asking for complaints, she started to examine me. And I found a splinter in this little spot! Steel shavings! Then sprinkled or dripped (I don’t remember anymore) painkillers. Put me behind her microscope torture machine. I rested my chin on it and SEEED that it was going through my eye with a needle. I sneezed badly. Even thought: What will happen? If while it appears with the needle and me in the eye I sneeze, cough. At that moment I even forgot how to breathe. But all went well that piece of shavings was taken out and recommended drops for 5 days and sent home. Now I have to wear glasses for even 5 seconds to make noise with an angle grinder. Or else I might sneeze.
The main causes of faults of the angle grinder and their elimination
Here are the most common problems and how to fix them.
The collector brushes are burning (sparking)
Sparking in the manifold is most often seen when it’s time to replace the carbon brushes. This usually happens after a few years of use angle grinder.
The standard brushes are designed for 7000 hours of operation, after which they will wear off.
The grinders have a simplified system for replacing brushes, so the repair is quite easy and fast:
the angle grinder does not turn on
In order to determine the exact cause of this fault, the electric circuit of the appliance must be examined. It is advisable to start from the socket and end by testing the electric motor. Once the point of interruption in the circuit is found, the electrical current must be restored to the tool. Dust or oxidation of the terminals or contacts on the starter button is the most common cause.
Breakage of the spindle locking button
The defect is purely mechanical. This can occur if the grinding wheel is jammed or the spindle cavity is severely clogged. In this case, a special flange wrench can be used to replace the disc, which is usually packed with tools that are sold as standard. Use an open-jaw wrench to hold the shaft in place and prevent it from turning. There is a keyway at the base of the flange mount.
Motor stops working
If the motor is energized but does not rotate, check the condition of the brushes and bearings. brushes can get stuck, bearings can jam.
the angle grinder works intermittently, does not develop its full power
Motor angle grinder works jerkily, if there is an inter-twist circuit in the coils of the rotor. The most common cause is improper use of the tool, which results in overheating of the motor. Rewinding armature coils is a rather complicated and laborious task that is doomed to failure without some skill. Therefore, if the armature fails, it is recommended to replace the part as a whole, together with the bearings. The rating of a replacement part must match the rating of the original part exactly.
The angle grinder becomes excessively hot
often than not, the body of the angle grinder gets very hot due to improper use of the machine. Since the angle grinder is equipped with an asynchronous motor, increasing the work load on it does not affect the speed of rotation. Inexperienced users can be misled by this, and as a result, they continue to work without interruption for an unlimited time. But you must not do this. The data sheet of each tool specifies the optimum operating time of the angle grinder under load, usually 5-7 minutes. After that, it is advisable to take a break of 1 minute or let the angle grinder idle.
Angle Grinder Repair and Service Guide (Essential Angle Grinder Maintenance!)
When working with the tool, it is important to observe the correct order of stopping the angle grinder. Wait until the engine has come to a complete halt after you have turned off the starter button. If you put the rotating angle grinder on the ground or on a dusty floor, small particles of sand will be sucked in through the ventilation holes. They will get inside the motor and erase the protective insulation layer.
angle grinder does not pick up speed
If the tool is equipped with electronic shaft speed control, failure in its operation may cause the shaft speed to “float” under load. Most likely a short circuit occurred on the circuit board, the control unit must be replaced.
Transmission gears play an important part in transmitting the rotary motion from the electric motor to the work tool. In addition, there is a decrease in speed and, therefore, increase power. Spur gears are used in grinders up to 1100 W. If motor power is greater than this, helical gears are used, which have greater fracture strength.
If you hear a crackling or grinding noise when you turn the motor on, turn off the angle grinder immediately. Do not work with such a gearbox, it will lead to total shearing of the remaining gear teeth. After the engine has stopped completely, you must remove the gear cover to determine the exact “diagnosis”.
If a chipped tooth is the cause of the noise, the damaged gears will need to be replaced. At the same time it is necessary to clean thoroughly the cavity of their rotation from grease and metal splinters which were formed from the previous mechanism. After replacing parts, the grease inside the gearbox must be completely renewed.
If the angle grinder is fuming while working
When you’re busy working stone or grinding metal, it’s easy to miss how the tool overheats. If the work will not be stopped, very soon from under the hood will begin to emerge in clouds of acrid stinking smoke. It is the armature winding that is burning and where the insulation layer is melting because it cannot withstand the heat load. If you do not stop the angle grinder, it may burn out.
If you can smell foul odors, immediately turn off the angle grinder and unplug it from the power outlet.
You should only disassemble the tool when it has cooled down completely and no more acrid fumes are released.
Excessive sparking at the collector
A fan of sparks flying out from under the collector brushes is usually a sign of a faulty insulation at the armature or a short circuit between the wires in the windings. In this case, stop working and unplug the angle grinder. Next, it is necessary to disassemble the housing and examine in detail the angle grinder armature. The simplest repair option is a complete replacement of the armature.
The bearings are broken
If there is something wrong with the bearings, the angle grinder vibrates strongly and makes a low-frequency rumble when under load. This is because a damaged bearing begins to hum during operation. The vibration occurs from the appearance of additional play on the bushings fixing the rotating shaft. This fault can be eliminated by replacing the bearings. To do this you must do the following:
How an angle grinder works
Repair of angle grinder with your own hands begins with the fact that you should find the cause of the malfunction. To do this, you need to find out the principle of operation and design of the tool. The principle of operation is based on conversion of electrical energy into mechanical energy. The mechanical energy is the rotary motion that drives the tool shaft with the corresponding nozzles.
This means that the angle grinder consists of two parts: electrical and mechanical. Breakdown can happen in any part, so it is important to know the structural elements of both parts. The main elements of the angle grinder include:
- Plastic housing.
- Two-phase electric motor.
- Power button.
- Plain bearings.
- Brush assembly.
- The power cord.
- Speed regulator (for some models).
The housing is made of impact resistant plastic. The housing design combines the electrical circuitry with mechanics. The motor rotor rotates by means of electric current. The sleeve bearings ensure the rotary motion of the rotor shaft. The shaft has a toroidal gear at the end. It drives a flat gear wheel, which is arranged at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the shaft. This is how the angle grinder works. In addition to two plain bearings on which the rotor shaft rotates, the angle grinder has an additional bearing unit. It is located on the working shaft of the mechanical part of the tool.
Angle grinder device
The angle grinder is constructed with an electric drive, the torque of which is transmitted via a gearbox to the spindle with the working tool. On professional-level grinders, soft starters, speed regulators and stabilizers are additionally installed.
Device of angle grinder DIOLD MSHU-1,5-01 with speed regulation (6). 220Volt photo
The soft start creates a comfortable and safe working conditions with the angle grinder, reduces the possibility of failure of the main working elements of the angle grinder (see Accessories on the angle grinder). angle grinder with soft start). The presence of the speed control option expands the possibilities of application of the angle grinder (see here for more information). about RPM angle grinder), creates conditions for absence of work with overload, which increases the duration of its continuous operation (angle grinder with adjustable speed here).
Speed regulator is used in power grinders, where the quality of the processed material depends on the rotational speed of the tool. So, for example, plastics can melt when processed at high RPM because of the heat. The power tool works effectively at certain spindle speeds to clean and grind surfaces.
Adjustment is performed manually by changing the value of the variable resistor built into the circuit of the device. In addition to the variable resistor, the circuit includes an electronic unit that controls the amount of current. The electronic control of this electrical parameter at a decrease in RPM, and thus in power, will maintain the amount of torque on the working spindle and ensure the operation of the angle grinder.
Wiring diagram on the thyristor and triac BTA 12-600, with three or two leads
A typical circuit diagram of the angle grinder rpm controller is shown on the
The main element here is a triac (BT12). This circuit is used to control the speed of high-powered angle grinders. Thyristors (D83) are additionally used to control opening/closing of triacs. So the triac has three operating leads: 1,2 allows current to flow from the mains to the load, and 3 controls the opening/closing of the triac.
The scheme of speed control of low-power angle grinders can only be performed on thyristors. They act both as locking organs in the chain as well as controlling. There is no need for a third pin. A schematic diagram is shown at
The diode bridge (VD1) makes it possible to adjust the voltage on both half-periods of alternating current with only one thyristor.
With soft start
Some specialized microcircuits may have current feedback, overload protection and soft start simultaneously. Such qualities have the U2010B chip, which is the basic component of the circuit presented below:
Diagram of the regulator on the U2010B chip. Photo source here
The peculiarity of the device is the absence of a tachometer, which allows you not to complicate the design of the angle grinder. The unit is included in the circuit as an intermediate device between the electrical connector and the actuator.
Without loss of power
The easiest and cheapest method of angle grinder RPM adjustment is based on voltage change. However, at low speeds, the torque is significantly reduced, and the angle grinder can not perform its functions. The other way is more expensive and complex based on the use of microprocessor control. Information for the microprocessor circuit operation is given by the tachometer mounted on the rotor shaft. Tachometer feedback gives almost 100% torque retention in case of engine speed drop.
Gearbox failure, causes and frequent failures
Increased vibration, the presence of abnormal sound during operation, high heating of the housing, gearbox jamming during angle grinder operation requires immediate intervention to determine the causes of the above factors and their elimination. As the practice of using boltmotors shows, the most frequent failures of gearboxes are caused by the following reasons:
- Worn bearings with critical play;
- Bearings can “crumble” as a result of impact loads during “hard” operation of the angle grinder;
- increased wear of the bevel gear pair, tooth breakage;
- untimely replacement of the gearbox lubrication or presence of low-quality lubricant in it.
Bearing Wear (Lepse)
In the following video the author performs a complete disassembly of an angle grinder of the Lepse brand made in Russia (Electromechanical Engineering Plant, Moscow, Russia). Kirov) in order to determine the lack of spindle rotation with a normally operating electric motor. A complete analysis of all disassembled parts is performed. Even high-quality Soviet bearings after 10 years of operation show slight wear, which can be determined manually by measuring the amount of backlash. For a detailed description of what to do in such cases, see the article “Changing the Bearings in the Gearbox of an angle grinder”. In the case of the Lepse angle grinder, the play in the front rotor bearing requires its replacement. After replacing the defective bearing with a new one, you must grease it, as well as all other bearings of the angle grinder.
Lack of gear engagement (Interskol), gearbox noises/rattles
The following video shows a rattling noise in the Interskol angle grinder, which is characteristic of a broken pinion pair. The assumption was confirmed after opening the gear case, where we can see the breakage of small drive pinion. Further disassembly of the angle grinder made it possible to determine the probable cause of gear damage. Increased play in the front rotor bearing may have caused excessive forces in a pair of bevel gears, leading to failure of one of them.
Important: increased rotor run-out due to bearing unit failure may cause the armature to contact the stator winding, resulting in inter-turn short circuits and winding burnout. Correcting this defect costs a lot of money.
Backlash (CROWN, Bosch)
Not only the rotor, but the spindle play is also an accidental factor.
The CROWN angle grinder in the following video had an increased play on the spindle. The author has noticed a strong end play of the power tool. Work in such conditions can lead to the destruction, for example, a cutting wheel, which would create an unsafe situation for the person working with the angle grinder and the surrounding people. The bearing was replaced by the author using a bearing puller.
In the following video, the play on the spindle is noticeably greater. This is caused by wear on both bearings, the ball bearing in the housing cover and the plain bearing in the gearbox housing. Lack of lubrication. this is the conclusion made by the author after analyzing the defects. Note the method by which the sliding bearing is removed from the housing. The calibrated rod (in this case the drill bit guide) creates pressure on the grease which fills the cavity of the inner diameter of the sliding bush. After a load, the grease penetrates into the gap between the bushing and the housing and pushes the bushing out of its seat.
Similar to the previous two, the following video shows spindle play in a Bosch angle grinder. This shows that no special tools are required to remedy the defect. The rolling and plain bearings can be removed and replaced without the need for extractors; only tools at hand are required, including a matching rolling pin.
Rotor bearing failure can be the cause of stator winding failure. So replacing the bearings will not solve the problem of serviceability of the angle grinder. Requires knowledge of how to rewind the stator winding. The video describes how to solve this problem on your own. The main thing to make a good template and pick up the framework for winding copper wire (in the video is a spray can from an air freshener).
Strongly heats, causes and solutions
Bevel gearboxes in CNC machines are under tremendous strain during operation. This is why a considerable amount of heat is generated in the teeth when they come into contact with each other through friction. The heat is dissipated by the gear housing material that conducts heat, the fan blowing, and part of the heat is dissipated by the lubricant.
If the windings of the stator or rotor are shorted, the contacts in the brush unit are disturbed, the circuit resistance increases, and this increases the heat generated. If the temperature of the gear housing exceeds the value indicated by the standards, then the cause should be sought in deviations from the normal operation of the above nodes and parts of the angle grinder.
The following videos show the importance of using the specified lubricant and when to replace the used lubricant. the lubricant becomes contaminated over time due to abrasive wear of the gears and when working with materials that release large amounts of abrasive dust (concrete, stone, ceramic tiles, etc.). If grease not designed for use in gearboxes is used, the gears will fail quickly.
In the following video, the author suggests redesigning the contact system of the brush unit. The old one included a spring in the electrical circuit, which heated up and quickly lost its electrical properties. The proposed contact system includes parts with a relatively large cross-section relative to the spring and avoids generating additional heat.
Frequent malfunctions: warms up and other causes
The main cause of stator failure is a violation of the electrical insulation of its windings. This defect is caused by prolonged work in conditions of overloading the device. The angle grinder gets very hot, which has a detrimental effect on the insulating coating. As a consequence of which there is a short circuit between coils, breakdown of coil windings to the core body or when the current rises sharply, the wires break off.
Angle grinder repairing | not working| finding problem
Before carrying out repair work, diagnostics is performed in order to determine the parts and components, due to which the angle grinder can not function properly. The electrical part of the angle grinder is inspected visually for traces of surface burn-up in places of short circuit. If after the inspection there are no obvious signs of failure the electrical part is checked by probing with special instruments (multimeter, short-circuit indicator and others). After the fault has been found and analyzed, the method of rectification is decided.
There are two main ways to repair the stator with your own hands:
- Remove the burnt-out stator from the angle grinder’s body. In a specialized store, an identical to the failed device is purchased and used in the angle grinder instead of it.
- The burned-out winding is removed from the body of the core and a new one is wound, matching the old one in the number of turns and wire diameter.
Testing and rewinding
If a burnt-out stator was the cause of the angle grinder failure, you can find out in more detail what part of it was involved. If there are defects in the windings of the coil, some users rewind new ones themselves. A detailed description of the production of such works at the links “How to ring the stator of angle grinder” and “Rewinding the stator of the angle grinder with their own hands”.
In the following video I bought a new stator for the DWT angle grinder to replace the burnt one. The new stator was positioned as an assembly from the angle grinder of this model. Describes in detail the disassembly process of the angle grinder before removing the defective stator from the housing. When examining the appearance of the purchased new and old old grinders, there was some difference. However, after reassembly and performance testing, it was found that they have almost no effect on the operation of the angle grinder.
Burnt out, rewind
Lacquer impregnation, described in the repair, should not be copied one to one. Because ordinary carpentry varnish does not have the necessary electrical insulation properties. If you have trouble choosing an impregnation agent, it is better to use epoxy-based material, which is easy to find. The quality of the impregnation will be improved if the stator is heated, instead of waiting until the varnish stops penetrating the winding.
In the following video the author repairs a Bosch angle grinder. Working in a strongly dusty atmosphere, of course, can be the cause of the strong wear of the collector lamellas, but it should not be taken as the definite cause of the stator windings failure in any way. There are other operating conditions to consider here (overloading, length of work, etc.).
Diagnostics by the author is of a sort of guessing by coffee grounds. The sudden change from the burnt-out rotor, which was still quite serviceable, to the burnt insulation on the stator, which really failed, indicates the lack of a systematic approach in the repair work.
During disassembly of the angle grinder, the stator is released from the housing by violent blows of the hammer. Even though it is made of wood, it can cause damage to the protruding parts of the housing if struck hard enough.
Why the output ends of the stator were not immediately made of normal length, remains a mystery. The author does the same time-consuming job twice without explaining the reasons.
Angle grinder repair: diagnosis of breakage, ways to solve the problem
The repair of the angle grinder with their own hands. it is quite a solvable task. The main thing. do not rush, understand the design, remember all the circumstances in which it broke, determine what could wear out over time, make a diagnosis and proceed to repair.
angle grinder and its operation
Angle grinder is called an angle grinder (angle grinder). The name of the tool is connected with the fact that it was produced by the factory “Eltos-angular grinder” in the city of Oreanda. Plowdive. It is designed to perform work on grinding or trimming hard material:
angle grinder these days. a very necessary tool, so almost everyone has.
There are different in power grinders: from 500 watts to 2500, depending on the thickness of the circle. from 115 mm to 230 mm. The most popular for work are the 1.2 watt angle grinder, and the most used disc is 125 mm thick.
Every year the choice on this construction power tool is becoming more and more wide, but the rules of operation are almost unchanged. And even if you always adhere to them, sooner or later in the mechanism there are malfunctions, which you can try to eliminate with your own hands, collecting everything you need to repair the angle grinder.
Angle grinder device
- Rotor. the part of the electric motor that rotates during operation and is speed-controlled, also called the armature;
- The manifold is the place on the rotor where the control winding wires are located;
- brushes. the parts that serve as current conductors from the cable to the collector winding;
- Gearbox. the mechanism that acts as a drive from the rotating rotor to the spinning disk, consists of a spindle, a bearing, two gears (large and shaft gear);
- Stator. the part of the electric motor where the rotor runs;
- cooling impeller of the angle grinder;
- start button;
- The mains cable with the electric drive;
- protection cover;
- The angle grinder body;
- auxiliary handle.
All of these parts can be divided into two parts:
How to disassemble an angle grinder
How to disassemble an angle grinder? It’s not that complicated. This does not require any special knowledge, but you need to do everything carefully and with care. Each owner needs to know how to disassemble any working tool, because periodically it needs internal cleaning from dirt and trapped dust, and its longevity of service depends on it.
At the present time in the market you can choose a different kind of angle grinder, which differ in working parameters, size, quality. Different manufacturers also. Whatever model of grinder you bought yourself, all have the same model of assembling parts.
Disassembly of the angle grinder will require few tools, you just need an ordinary screwdriver or a reversible with a ratchet mechanism.
Having prepared a screwdriver, you can proceed to disassembly:
- Unscrew the self-tapping screws from the body and remove one side of the product.
- Remove the nut, thanks to which the disk is held, unscrew the bolts securing the protective cover.
- Remove brushes.
- Disconnect wires from the motor.
- Unscrew the bolts that fasten the gearbox inside, and very carefully remove it, with it the rotor is also taken out.
- Unscrew the bolts that hold the stator, and remove it.
- Assemble the angle grinder back, put everything in reverse order and screw.
Disassembling the angle grinder, it is important to remember the order of removal of parts to assemble correctly.
Typical minor breakdowns
In the case of a malfunction in the first place it is necessary to exclude elementary breakdowns:
- Does not turn on the angle grinder. The angle grinder suddenly stops working. it just won’t start. In this case, you need to check the serviceability of the socket, then the plug and the power cord, perhaps the drive simply does not work because the product does not get current.
- Cable and plug are intact, but the drive does not work. The start button needs to be checked. Repair of the angle grinder switch is easier to carry out by buying a new button and replacing it. Since it is rarely repairable. mostly the plastic switch rod is broken inside. If you want to experiment, you can disassemble it, numbering the contacts, and reassemble everything in its place, so that after reassembly there is no short circuit.
- The above parts are unharmed, and the angle grinder does not want to work. then it’s time to check the brushes. It may be time to change them in the angle grinder. Brushes are constantly warm from work, so they wear out quickly and need to be replaced more often than other parts, and in pairs.
Having excluded all minor breakages, it is necessary to understand why the tool does not want to turn on, and how to repair it. Most likely, the malfunctions are serious and require additional knowledge. This happens in cases where:
- the housing is deformed;
- one of the bearings is jammed;
- The armature or stator is not working;
- The gears in the gearbox are broken or worn out;
- the manifold is out of order;
- The sensor of the control electronics shows no sign of life.
If it is determined that the malfunction occurred in the mechanical part of the angle grinder, then it is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the large pinion, which is on the shaft, and the bushings. If the teeth are partially worn or the shafts wobble, they must be replaced immediately.
The most widespread breakages
Angle grinder malfunctions are fairly common. Everyone who works with this tool knows that. What fails most often?
The spindle locking button broke
A single accidental press on the spindle lock knob while the disk is turning will break it. Sometimes it can be broken if it is used to remove a jammed disc. To prevent this from happening, it is important to use the open-ended wrench inserted in the openings beside the disk locking pin.