Why is the guide bar on a chain saw jammed?. How to avoid improper sharpening

Why the chain saw bar gets jammed

Group: Visitors Messages: 548 Registered: 9-October 18 User #: 2,377,098

Greetings esteemed community. Please advise on the following question: I have bought a new chain saw, Hoper-type lopper one-handed. Didn’t start it just checked 2 new chains when installed on the bar, for cranking by hand. Both go fine at first then about 5cm of sticking, like the chain tension is stronger and then back to normal. Master and slave sprockets spin normally. It is not clear what the reason is? Will it affect the performance of the saw or will it work out?? But the difference in chain tension is certainly stressful. Thanks for the answers and help beforehand.

Group: Visitors Message: 960 Registered: 21-February 11 From: St Petersburg User №: 26,717

There is nothing to jam. The tire is just a bunch of sprockets that the chain runs to.

On my Stihl, it moves freely when you crank it by hand, it does not jam.

Try to determine which roller is stuck. Put a drop of oil in it. If it is not too bad, then don’t worry about it. The power of the saw is enough.

Group: Visitors Messages: 548 Registered: 9-October 18 User #: 2,377,098

Nothing to jam. The bar is just a bunch of sprockets that the chain runs on.

On my Stihl, it moves freely when you turn it by hand, it does not jam.

Try to see where it jams, which roller. Put a drop of oil in it. If it’s not too bad, then don’t worry about it. The power of the saw is enough.

Oil is dripping all over the place. Without the chain it’s going fine. Only at some point does the chain suddenly tighten more and seize up. Checked it out, might be a mm longer on one protruding sprocket beam than the other. That’s what gives the tension.

Group: Visitors Message: 1,105 Registered: 27-November 15 User #: 2,342,032

Probably just chains still new, not running, dry, unlubricated. Some of the links are riveted on stronger.

Group: Visitors Message: 1,258 Registered: 21-November 16 From: Simbirsk Province. User #: 2,356,152

Adjust the chain sag in the book.Start the saw and blow it out to lubricate everything.Then the chain will find its own place.I’ll have to retighten it.

Group: VIP Messages: 1,730 Registered: 24-September 10 User #: 21,558

Group: VIP Messages: 11,000 Registered: 20-April 15 User #: 2,332,818

The oil is well dripped all over the place. Without the chain it goes fine. Only at some point the chain is suddenly more tight and jammed. I’d have to take a closer look to see if one protruding ray of the sprocket is any mm longer than the other. That’s what gives it that tension.

You just write back when you find the cause, what was it.

Group: Visitors Message: 107 Registered: 4-February 18 User #: 2,371,875

Group: VIP Posts: 5,171 Registered: 9-October 14 User #: 74,922

Metal detector: Signum 2.05 Gender: male

I would still look at the drive sprocket. Maybe something got caught in it? The chain tooth so it can’t go in there that’s why the tension.

Group: Visitors Messages: 162 Registered: 26-August 20 User #: 2,391,915

What was the cause of the chain jamming ?,on a Stihl 180 after 10 years of use, such a thing also appeared.

Group: Visitors Messages: 543 Registered: 24-November 18 From: Smolensk region. User #: 2,378,104

What was the reason for the chain jamming ?,on a Stihl 180 after 10 years of use this also appeared.

Group: Visitors Message: 1,743 Registered: 8-October 13 User #: 60,512

Group: Visitors Messages: 435 Registered: 7-May 20 User #: 2,389,737

Drive sprocket wear,tire wear,sprocket on tire,chain links wear on bottom,or tire sprocket not lubricated with oil.

Group: Visitors Messages: 272 Registered: 19-May 20 User №: 2,390,020

The chain didn’t come off ? That should take about five minutes.Just fixed it on mine.Spin the chain around the sprocket and figure out which piece of chain is catching.There may be a burr on the inside of the chain.You need to tweak them a little flat with a file and then try cranking.

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Group: Beachmen Messages: 2,977 Registered: 22-November 19 User #: 2,385,359

[quote=vladlen andreef,Mar 25 2020, 11:46]Greetings respected community. Please advise on this issue: Acquired a new chain saw, Khoper-type lopper one-handed. Did not start just checked the 2 new chains when installed on the bar, on the cranking by hand. Both go well at first, then about 5cm of jamming, like the chain more tension and then back to normal. Master and slave sprockets spinning fine. It’s not clear what the reason is? Will it affect the performance of the saw or will it work out?? But the difference in the tension of the chain of course strained. Thanks for the answers and help in advance. [/quote

Group: Visitors Messages: 435 Registered: 7-May 20 User #: 2,389,737

Just a misalignment of pitch,chain with the sprocket,maybe even both sprockets.If the tire is well lubricated,everything will work,where necessary all grind and fit into place.On a Stihl I had this, hand drive the chain, at first it goes clear, then you have to pull with effort (does not get into step).

Group: Visitors Messages: 234 Registered: 16-February 21 User #: 2,395,103

Metal detector: T2 Gender: Male Card Number: 2202 7063

The chain did not come off ? It’ll only take five minutes.I just had it fixed.Spin the chain around the sprocket and figure out which piece of chain is snagging.Burrs may form on the inside of the chain.You need to tweak them a little flat with a file and then try cranking.

What can malfunction

All faults can be divided into two large groups:

The following is characteristic of engine failure:

  • Equipment won’t start, stalls;
  • It’s not pumping fuel to the primer;
  • Unstable operation, fluctuating revolutions;
  • Runs at idle, may float on load, throttle, shoot.

If the problem is in other assemblies, such phenomena are noted:

Using the wrong chain

It’s no secret that the chain saw bar, like the chain, has several basic characteristics, one of them is the width of the groove for the installation of the chain. The width of the groove can have several basic dimensions:

guide, chain, jammed, sharpening

Suppose you take a chain with a 1.1″ pitch and put it on a bar with a 1.3″ pitch. Initially, if the tension is good, we may not notice any difference, but as soon as the tension is slightly reduced, the gap of 0.2 mm will not let it move evenly along the bar, it will lean to one side and we’ll get a badly cut material again.

when buying a chain to the chain saw, please give exact chain dimensions, not the brand or model of the saw. Similar chainsaw models can be fitted with different guide bars and, as a result, the chains are also different.

Check the width of the chain fit, you can with a caliper.

To correct the problem, if the chainsaw bar is not yet badly damaged and there is no uneven wear on it, you will only need to replace the chain. If it already shows wear and tear, it is necessary to install a completely new set.

Excessive wear

If your chain saw cuts in a curved arc, it could also be due to excessive wear on the guide bar. This can be checked by a visual inspection of their contact surfaces. To do this, remove the bar from the chain saw and look at the plane of the bar face in contact with the chain, with the bar at eye level so that the chain slots are completely visible.

With this inspection, you can visually assess the wear on the left and right sides of the tire in relation to the groove. Generally the edges should wear evenly and if one side is more worn, it must be replaced with a new one to correct the problem.

Some manufacturers recommend that you turn the guide bar periodically to keep it evenly worn. But it’s worth remembering that this recommendation is not correct for all models of headsets. к. many manufacturers indicate on the surface of the bar the direction of the chain, and therefore such a part can only be installed in one position.

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The picture below shows a few views, the top one has the direction of the chain, as we are informed by the icon on the tip of the bar and the direction indicator.

Experienced chain saw service centers recommend a complete diagnosis of the chainsaw’s lubrication system if excessive wear is detected, i.e. к. If the lubrication system is working properly and the chain is installed according to the guide bar of the chainsaw, this phenomenon should not occur, so the oil supply system may be faulty or misadjusted.

If you observe a crooked cut when working with your chainsaw, the first thing you should pay attention to is the matching of the chainsaw chain to its bar. If everything is normal check the sharpening of the teeth and the wear of the bar, in case you find increased wear, check the functionality of the lubrication system, t. к. it may be the problem. And the main thing to remember is that everything is interconnected in a chainsaw, and the use of low-quality chain lubricants can cause premature wear and loss of chainsaw performance.

Reasons why the chain saw can continually wiggle to the side

If the chainsaw is constantly moving sideways when cutting wood, this has a significant impact on the comfort of working with the machine. If this defect is present, the level of performance decreases, increasing the consumption of fuel used.

Also, when a chainsaw is pulled to the side while you are sawing, you end up with a poor quality cut in the wood. There are only a few reasons why this kind of defect can occur.

As a rule, such sideways movement when sawing wood appears as a result of:

  • uneven sharpening of the teeth located on the chain;
  • when using a chain that does not fit the bar or vice versa, when the saw chain is too large for the chain;
  • Incorrect, uneven chain tension;
  • Severe wear and tear on the cutting attachments or chain.

As a rule, a chainsaw during the work sharply begins to move sideways because of uneven wear of the teeth on the chain used to cut the wood.

This kind of wear is most often the result of the chain hitting some hard object (a nail, a rock, etc.) while cutting wood. In this case, it is recommended to replace the chain used to cut trees. Otherwise, if you use a chain with such a defect, the bar may fail.

Also very often chain saws when working and sawing wood, moves sideways if the chain is tensioned incorrectly or not timely. according to standard instructions, it is necessary to tension and install chain in such way that only 3 shanks are visible during lifting.

If the chain is tensioned on a cold chain saw, make sure that it does not sag after installation. the chain should be rotated directly on the bar with the tool turned off by one hand without using excessive physical force.

When working with a chainsaw, you must also consider the fact that during sawing, the chain begins to get very hot. This rapid heat causes the chain to sag. Therefore, when sawing trees, the chain on the bar should not be tightened too much. Otherwise, after it cools down, it will start to shrink and become overtightened.

It is not recommended to work with an overtightened chainwheel, because this would cause the bar itself to become too hot and deformed.

As a result, the tool will drift sideways during work. In addition, working with a deformed saw head accelerates the wear level of the chainsaw mechanisms.

Why the chain saw cuts awkwardly. identifying the fault and fixing it

The chainsaw is a truly unique tool that facilitates felling trees and cutting firewood. The main advantage of this tool is the fast maximum speed and also the possibility for instant braking of the chain. Various malfunctions occur in the process of using the tool, and an uneven saw is one of them. If the chain saw cuts awkwardly, it makes the sawyer uncomfortable and wastes a lot of fuel. If you have encountered such a malfunction, this material will tell you how you can identify and fix it.

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Almost all the carburetors that are used in chainsaws have the same mechanism. Only the mechanisms with which the Chinese garden tools are equipped make the difference.

As standard, the fuel assembly consists of the following parts:

  • Float chamber. this element is designed to continuously maintain the required amount of fuel. When the assembly is in operation, fuel is transferred to the atomizer through the built-in nozzle;
  • Fuel tube. fuel flows into the carburettor chamber in batch sizes. The fuel supply is regulated by the position of the built-in factory shutter;
  • atomizer. this part is needed to inject fuel into the intake air flow.

How a chainsaw carburetor works is pretty straightforward. During operation of the unit, air is drawn in by the tube and passes through it at a rate that is regulated by the built-in damper. When the choke is opened, the float in the chamber is actuated. After passing through the diffuser, the air mixes with the fuel and atomizes instantly. Then the air-enriched, high-quality fuel mixture passes through the intake channel and into the engine cylinder. Explain how a carburetor works in a diagram.

The fuel circulates in the node under pressure. In the float chamber it is close to atmospheric pressure, but in the standard air intake pipe it is more rarefied. Due to the difference in pressure that is formed, the fuel mixture enters the tube. The higher the amount of fuel, the higher the rpm the utility chainsaw engine is capable of generating.

The circuit collapses

Why the chain comes off the tire? There can be several reasons and they are all different:

  • Worn sprocket or idler sprocket. Because the sprocket is worn, there is less grip on the chain and the chain comes off the chain. Sprocket needs to be replaced.
  • Chain is loose. Why the chain on the chainsaw stretches. because of insufficient lubrication. The metal heats up and stretches, even if by a fraction of a millimeter, but if you consider the number of links, then even 3-4 mm is enough for the chain to come off the bar. Chain needs to be replaced.
  • The tensioner of the chain, which adjusts its tension, is loose. how to adjust the chain saw, more precisely the chain tension? You need to adjust the tensioner. you can do it in a matter of minutes.

How to remove chainsaw clutch.

In order to remove the clutch on a chainsaw you must first remove the cutting headset, then the air filter cover and the clutch cover.

Then you need to lock the crankshaft so that it does not rotate when the clutch is unscrewed. To lock the crankshaft, for example with a large crank, you must remove the cover of the hand starter and screw two bolts into the rotor of the ignition system. Or unscrew the spark plug, lower the piston to NFT and lock it there by pushing a rope into the spark plug hole.

Next, unscrew the clutch itself. use a wrench from the chainsaw kit, or a wrench for the angle grinder, or a homemade wrench (for example, from an old tire with two bolts) to unscrew the clutch clockwise (there is a left-hand thread), to break it you need a considerable effort.

Then remove the clutch drum and drive sprocket from the chainsaw. Replace the chainsaw clutch drum according to the rule: replace two bars. replace one drum.

Then put in a new clutch and hand-tighten it to the stop (screwed counterclockwise). You need to block the crankshaft again in order not to break the starter, which is located on the other end of the chainsaw crankshaft, while twisting the clutch.

To engage the chainsaw clutch finally, it is necessary to pull the chain brake handle forward, engage the chainsaw and then disengage the brake.

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