Which thicknesser is better Makita or Metabo

Beginner’s Blog

Good health dear readers! I want to share with you my opinion on the domestic planer Metabo DH330. In this article, I will indicate the pros and cons, from my point of view, the experience of using it, the things that owners of such a machine need to know, and how I modernized it for the convenience of working on it.

This is the planer I bought in June 2013. It took me quite a long time to choose a model of a residential thicknesser, reading reviews, reading forums, and other things. Now I do not remember how I came to the conclusion that I need to buy this particular model, this particular manufacturer. But, his purchase has never once regretted it. Of course, like any other manufacturer of such machines, there are pros and cons.

Also, from the pluses, we can include the ability to lock the motor after setting the height; long enough tilting tables; rubber pressure rollers; indication of the thickness of the removal; stop with a number of parameters for quick height setting.

Cons . The lack of a soft start (with a motor power of 1.8 kW). Poor chip evacuation without a vacuum cleaner. Diameter of the connection pipe of the vacuum cleaner. Expensive blades that can not be resharpened. Lack of carbide knives.

All in all, it’s not a bad machine in its class.

As I wrote above, I’ve been working on it for almost two years now. I have used two sets of blades in this time. They are double sided and now the “fourth side” is coming to an end. Processed quite a bit of material with it. Worked mostly with pine. Recently started working with birch. Like any other home thicknesser, it makes a step at the board inlet and outlet. I struggled with it for a long time, I couldn’t do anything. I was able to minimize it a bit, but it’s still there. Now I’m just trying to “cheat” it. I recently changed one of the knife presser plates (art.number: 81011719461). The old one was defective, and small resin chips were getting under the knife. I have not noticed any other serious problems.

On one of the forums, people wrote that, after 3-4 years of operation, the mechanical components have problems. Once I had to take it apart a bit and clean from debris the landing places of press rollers. Then, on a cursory inspection of all the mechanics, I didn’t find any problems, except for the grease, which over time had mingled with fine wood dust. I decided not to let it go to the point where I had to repair or replace some parts, and gave it, so to speak, a complete technical inspection. There are a lot of photos of the disassembly and reassembly process, so I will not put them all here, only some of the important points. Time for a complete leisurely disassembly and cleaning took about 8 hours. Parts of course there was a lot, even on the milling table, the size of 1400×800 mm. all did not fit.

Its state of contamination could be assessed as average, close to heavily contaminated, despite the fact that practically after each work it “saw” the compressed air.

Contamination of the side area

As I wrote above, it was the presence of wood dust in the grease, but its condition was still tolerable. The dirtiest place was the engine, the inside of it.

The contamination of the motor case
Brush soiling

It felt as if I had emptied a bag from a vacuum cleaner. I didn³’t expect this condition and I³’m glad I went in at all. My opinion, the reason for this contamination was the design of the shroud, the dust extraction spigot in general. In the place where the chips come out, there was a fairly large gap between the housing and the casing, and just in this place in the motor holes are made in which air is sucked in for cooling. Unfortunate design of the spigot plus operation of the planer without a vacuum cleaner. Possible reason for this contamination.

All the stuff that couldn’t fit on the routing table
All parts after cleaning

After completely disassembling the thicknesser, I thoroughly cleaned all of its parts of old grease, resin and dust. Almost all of its parts have taken a “gasoline” bath. I thought to get rid of the tar with mineral spirits, but not all can be cleaned. Just by chance I tried it with acetone. It was corrosive in no time. I suggest! Also, I needed compressed air.

Reassembled in reverse order, starting with the engine. When assembling the gearbox I decided to use automotive grease for joints.

Put grease on pinion seating
Lubricating the gears
The white residue is varnish

For the lubrication of all exposed components (threaded rods, bushings, chains, etc.).) Used aerosol grease Very Lube PTFE Spray Sliding. I have to say right away that I have strong doubts that it is suitable for these tasks. I bought it for the lubrication of the saw, and all other machines. But, for the first time I used it on the jointer. I didn’t like it, it rubs off easily. I haven’t used it anywhere else yet. I will be buying ProGold 2000 for that.

If anyone has used PTFE varnish. Let me know in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев how it behaves and what it is best used for, can it be used to lubricate all the rubbing elements in the machines.

I adjusted the parallelism of the shaft to the table with the help of the A LINE IT Deluxe Kit. During assembly, I tightened the threaded rods in the position where the movable part of the Reissmus rested on the table with the press rollers. The gauge showed a deviation of 0.005″. After completing the assembly, I tried sharpening the rail on the left and right side of the knife shaft. The difference is still there. By loosening the threaded rod, which is without a handle, I adjusted it to the same value. Right now I have parallelism printed to an accuracy of 0.001″.

Retrofit. Soft Start (PP).

Soft start from the 2300M angle grinder

Upgrade. Digital display of working height.

Let me tell you right off the bat that the digital display. it’s a thing! There is a millimeter marking on the ruler. But it’s not very comfortable to use. To display a less accurate value, you have to look at it straight. You have to bend over, fetch the right height. Not convenient.

Digital display Wixey WR510

than a year ago I started buying an American tool, and along with the other tools, I ordered the Wixey WR510 digital display. This indication is put on many models of thicknessers, but there are no mounting details on Metabo, in fact, you can not put it there. But, with some modifications, this nuance is easily solved. Calibration of this device is made in seconds. It was very comfortable to work with and I did not regretted the money spent on the thicknesser.

Retrofit. Chip evacuation tube. In the delivery set to the thicknesser is a pipe for chip evacuation. It is removable and has a hole to connect a vacuum cleaner. I connected a vacuum cleaner to it once, it was a 30-liter Sparky. The tank is filled up very quickly, and I realized that this is not an option. At the end of last year I bought a aspirator from Bulgarian company ZMM-Stomana, model CA-205. It’s a very powerful aspirator. I bought it to work with all the machines I have and will have in the future. I tried to connect it to the jointer. it collects shavings well, but ten percent still remain in the woodworking machine, and there were a couple of times, when the pipe got clogged inside with a big wood removals. I had an idea that the spigot. is a child’s plaything, and after the reissue machine worked with Stomana, I realized that it needs to be reworked, otherwise there’s no point in investing in aspiration. I didn’t find any practical information about it on the Internet, and I decided to make something myself. I twisted in my hands the existing branch pipe, looked at it from all sides, looked at what is behind this pipe, its mounting and other nuances. The task was to make the hose connection diameter of 120 mm., Minimum smooth angle of departure of the hose from the work area, and a minimum of gaps that do not suck extra air. One should also take into account that the nozzle should press the blade shaft’s stopper foot. Given all this, I figured out on a sheet of paper approximate shape, made a three-dimensional model and all the necessary drawings, and proceeded to the manufacture of. I wanted to make it all beautiful, high quality and reliable. Here’s what I got.

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Of the materials I used 12 mm. Laminated plywood, Titebond 2 wood glue,

Three-dimensional model

silicone sealant, black automotive sealant, 1mm stainless steel. Thick, plastic reducer for ventilation systems, four yellow 40 mm self-tapping screws. and two M5 hex bolts.The laminated plywood has smooth (outside) and rough (inside) sides, both painted black. The rough side I sanded down to bare wood with a belt machine.

Inner sidewall

First I cut out the inner sides. I had a rough sketch on the sheet, and of course I couldn’t do them the first time. There was one thing wrong and then another. In the end, I got the right shape after the third time.

Bent the stainless steel to the size of the sidewall. Because of its thickness it was not so easy to bend the needed shape. I couldn’t make it to size in the motor area, so I had to unbend it and make the back part all over again. Then I got the result I wanted.

Then, according to the drawings, cut all the necessary parts on the saw. A test assembly without glue showed that all angles fit together. There’s no gap anywhere. Then I cut a hole for the plastic one

Assembly with glue

adapter. I had to cut it to 120 mm, but I had no core, so I used a 124 mm core., and the resulting gap filled with silicone sealant. What is convenient about this adapter. because it has many diameters, it’s a very versatile thing. When I plan to do aspiration, all the machines will have 120 mm outlets. Now I connect everything with one 100 mm hose. I made the adapter under 120 mm at once., and separately attached 100mm of transition to it with a usual adhesive tape., In the future it will not be.

Fitting Adapter

I fitted the trimmed adapter to the landing place and glued it on the inside with silicone sealant, also filled the gap. On the outside, with electrical tape made two loops and plastered with black automobile sealant for aesthetics. I like it nice! Then assembled all the parts of the spigot with glue. Tried to put in place. Fitted everything perfectly. Fastening to the rail decided to make an additional strip from below in regular holes for fixing the pipe. Screwed the strip on self-tapping screws with glue. Drilled holes and screwed two hex bolts. At first I wanted to use the regular bolts, but they were not long enough due to the thickness of the plywood. Then I thought that they were uncomfortable to use, so I decided to put my own, more convenient.

Hanging of the nozzle

As a result, I received a very rigid construction. It sits dead in its place, the function of pressing the flag of the knife shaft stop, and most importantly. it collects all the shavings! I’ve been planing a lot since I mounted the spigot and I’ve never cleaned the pressure rollers, whereas before I used to clean them from sawdust quite often. Well, as it usually is. convenience is worth paying for! Due to the faster flow of air through the rotating shaft, there is more noise from the work. Of course, it has made me sad. But, all the pros outweigh this one single disadvantage.

Ideas for the near future The plan is to make a table for the thicknesser. Now I have it on a wooden case from a Soviet sewing machine. The wheel supports are bolted to the bottom. That’s how I’ve been “rolling” it for about two years now. I was happy with this table in principle in everything. Its size is strictly for a thicknesser, so it does not take much space; the height of the table is convenient for work. Why I decided to make a new table? There are several reasons for this.

First, it’s aesthetics and reliability. I prefer to work on a tool that has a decent look. I want to make a new table, like my router table. Any machine has to stand on a solid, level surface. I plan to make the table top not less than 30 mm. thick with reinforcing ribs. Also, the frame of the table itself will be rigid enough to move the table rigidity to “swallow” the unevenness of the floor and not violate the overall diagonal of the entire structure. That’s how I made my router table. Only it weighs three times more than the future table with the cross cutter and all the other things that will be in the table. Despite its weight the frame provides the necessary rigidity, and while moving the table when the wheel hits an uneven surface the table starts rocking diagonally instead of taking the unevenness of the floor on itself.

Secondly, it’s functionality. Now, I have my welding equipment inside this table, and it’s kind of out of place there. I plan on making drawers all the way up inside it. Perhaps there will be only one drawer for accessories for the thicknesser, and the rest of the place divided into a couple of shelves under the door, for some other power tools. I don’t know yet.

Thirdly, for this type of planer it is desirable to have a support at the edges of the folding tables. Now they are in my area of the table, respectively, without support. I read somewhere that they make a support at the hinged tables to minimize the step at the beginning and end of the workpiece.

Incra stop plugs
Kapro’s all-metal level Between it and the main table lay plugs on the edges of the table All of this is lightly pressed with pressure rollers

When I rebuilt my thicknesser, I adjusted the tables so that the edges of the hinged tables are elevated above the plane of the main one by 1.2-1.5 mm. (I used the Incra stop plug, which covers the upper technological holes). In doing so, I have reduced this step to half of what it was before. But, while planing, I noticed that the edge of the table goes down as soon as the workpiece reaches the second feed roller. Indeed, the support of the tilting table is next to the axle bolt. Even based on logical considerations, there can be no stiffness here, and at the edge it is really not there. So by making a larger table than I have now, I will be able to install this support. That said, I’ll make it with a fine adjustment so I can adjust and minimize the step on the workpiece.

That’s about it. I have no other ideas yet. Unless these are incarnated. I don’t have much time, now the season has started, other things to do, other projects and stuff. So. I can’t say when that table will be ready.

What kind of planer to choose? The best manufacturers of 2020 Razmus

Woodworkers (joiners, furniture makers) and companies involved in wood processing cannot do without various auxiliary tools and appliances. One such tool, which is used in the primary processing of boards, is the thickness gauge. In fact, it’s a device for planing to the right size. But often the device performs two main functions: they do mark lines on wooden workpieces for screws, screws, holes, as well as planing the wood, correcting the thickness of the board or beam to a given size.

When choosing a thicknesser or planer it is important not only to consider the technical characteristics and performance, but also the reliability and durability of the device. These criteria are guaranteed by the manufacturer. That’s why they depend directly on the choice of the manufacturing company, its stability, responsibility and reputation in the world market. Planers from the most reliable manufacturers are made of quality materials. They are tested after assembly, so they will last a long time. Work with a quality angle grinder takes the user to a new level of comfort. The result is always better and more efficient. In the choice of the thicknesser will help rating the world’s best manufacturers.

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All these popular manufacturers of planing machines presented at this link, in the specialized online store Storgom.ua.

The device of Makita thicknesser should be familiar to you if you plan to use this tool. This woodworking machine can be a single-sided, double-sided or special purpose machine. In the latter case, the equipment can be equipped with three, four or more knives. In the first case, the master can perform planing only on the upper side, in the second case, two opposite sides are processed. On sale today you can find a Makita single-sided planer, the instructions for use of which were presented above. These machines have a simpler design and are easier to operate. The table of such equipment consists of one solid plate, which is sanded and well planed. In addition, the equipment is equipped with rulers. In addition to the table on which the thickness of the layer is adjusted, the thicknesser has a mill. It is represented by individual blades.

The unit is also equipped with a system of automatic feeding of the workpiece by means of roller guides. The bed is made of cast iron, on which all mechanisms and details are fixed. As a supporting table can be a square-shaped metal corner, the side of which is 100 millimeters. Support table is hinged to the angles, fixed on one side with screw clamps and on the other side with bolts.

The Makita Razmus is a woodworking device. It can be used to prepare parts of different sizes, adjusting them to a certain thickness. A workpiece must be planed before using such a machine.

Simple, reliable design is the main advantage of a classical thicknesser. The equipment is designed for planing surfaces and is equipped with practical cutting elements designed for large amounts of work. Amateur and professional models are available. Our experts have tested 7 popular brands and we choose 3 thicknessers with reliable motors and surfaces that have excellent geometry.

Gigant TPJ-320-1600

Lightweight wood planer for the home workshop with 1.6 Kw motor powered by a 220 V household electrical outlet. Despite its low power, the electric motor rotates the planing shaft at a high speed of 9000 rpm. Board pulls at a speed of 5 m / min, which provides high performance. The size of the portal allows you to work with a board that is 31.8 cm wide and 15 cm thick.

Weight of equipment 30 kg, provides portability and sufficient stability on any surface. Ergonomic handles for carrying. The shaft is equipped with two construction steel blades, which have a planing depth of 3 mm. The ideal surface geometry of the work table ensures easy feeding, which positively affects the quality of the finished product.

which, thicknesser, better, makita, metabo

  • Convenient handle to change the height of the cutting head;
  • The possibility of connecting a vacuum cleaner;
  • Good equipment set;
  • Knife adjustment bar;
  • Low price.

Woodworking machine designed for the home workshop. The equipment is not designed for uninterrupted work for several hours, but with a short rest every half an hour it easily copes with several cubes of wood. The developers paid the main attention to easy adjustment: any beginner can set up the work with high accuracy.

Patriot TP 330

Compact home planer with a 2 kW motor that rotates the shaft at 8000 rpm. Power supply from a 220V household electrical outlet. The shaft is equipped with two cutting elements made of structural steel that ensure a planing depth of 3 mm. Measuring scale on front panel for high accuracy operations.

The planer has a low weight of 29 kg. This makes it easy to carry and transport. Heavy duty frame reduces vibration and the holes in the base enables fast and secure anchoring. The portal dimensions are suitable for boards 33 cm wide and 16 cm thick. High engine power for its class makes it possible to work with hardwood.

  • Quick-stop motor system for safe operation;
  • Speed of workpiece feed 6 m/min;
  • Minimum board thickness 5 mm
  • Quick setup;
  • Overload resistant electric motor.

Metabo DH 330 0200033000

Portable wood truing machine with 1.8 kW electric motor. Special feature. high shaft speed. 9800 rpm and operational feed of the workpiece. 7 m/min. Technical characteristics guarantee high quality planing surfaces. The gantry is designed to process a board 33 cm wide and 15.2 cm thick.

Large die-cast aluminum planer table provides high level of comfort. Two HSS knives with a planing depth up to 3 mm are made of steel with 18% m tungsten and can be used for working with hard types of wood. The 38 kg weight of the planer makes it stable, helps reduce vibration and is no problem to transport.

  • Precise adjustment of the planing depth;
  • Coating of table made of alloy steel;
  • Good safety system;
  • Duct for vacuum cleaner connection;
  • Easy maintenance.

What is a planer and planer table and why you need one

As its name suggests, the planer/planer combines a planer and a jointer in one device. The first is for straightening blanks: it straightens crooked and twisted lumber, at least on one side, and makes it possible to produce the right angles. The second is designed for calibrating the thickness of the parts aligned by the jointer. These devices complement each other, but can not replace, so when processing boards, workpieces are first run through the planer, and then. through the Rissmus machine.

In the professional sphere large carpentry workshops are usually equipped with planing and thicknessing machines one by one. it considerably increases productivity and allows reducing the downtime and setting up the equipment. But in the home workshop, it is advisable to have a machine of the “two-in-one” system. This saves money and space, especially since productivity in such conditions is not too crucial.

What to look for when choosing a RASMUS machine

Engine power. The higher it is, the more productive the machine and the more electricity it consumes. Usually it ranges from 1500 to 2000 watts.

Sides to be machined. Usually the thicknesser works only with one side of the part. with the upper, but planer and thicknesser machines work with both upper and lower faces simultaneously, and professional models can even be multilateral, but this is a rare phenomenon.

The rotational speed of the shaft. As a rule, it ranges from 8000-10,000 rpm. The higher the maximum rotation speed, the more capricious the material can be handled.

Depth of removal. It indicates how thick a layer can be removed from a board in one pass. As a rule, the manufacturers specify the maximum thickness of removal at 2-3 mm, but such a result is possible only when using rather narrow workpieces. If you go too deep into a wide piece, the motor simply can not turn the planer shaft and the work will stop.

The size of the workpiece. Typically, thicknesses from 5-6 mm up to 150 mm can be machined. Thinner workpieces would deform too much and turn into chips, and a larger thickness would make the machine too cumbersome. Planing width is usually 300-330 mm.

Metabo Thicknesser DH330 Re-Review After 2 Years of Use

Speed of automatic feed. All thickness planers have an automatic feed system: the rollers that press the workpiece to the table also move it. Usually the speed of the part inside the machine is from 4 to 9 meters per minute.

Type of knives. Knives in the planer shaft can be disposable or re-sharpenable. Disposable knives are usually double-edged: when one side blunts, the knife must be turned over to the other: when that side blunts, the tool must be changed. Reusable knives after they have lost their sharpness just need to be sharpened again. The first option is easier and more convenient, but replacement knives are quite expensive, and in addition it is not always possible to find a suitable knife model. Reusable knives are cheaper to maintain and can be used for many years without needing to be replaced.

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Number of knives. Usually, the planer shaft contains two knives opposite each other. Shafts with three knives are less common.

Material of rollers. Less simple planers are often equipped with plain black rubber rollers: they can slip on the workpiece, and if it sticks, they can leave black marks on it. Polyurethane rollers do not leave marks on parts and are therefore preferable to rubber rollers. Raised metal rollers do not slip and do not stain boards, but may leave marks on the workpieces when pressed, which remain after machining.

Marking system. This is also worth paying attention to when buying: planers can be equipped with millimeter or inch-type markings. If you forget about it, you have to convert fractions of an inch to fractions of a meter in your head, and that’s another chance to make a mistake.

Chips collector. To prevent chips from piling up all around, reissues are equipped with special catchers that are connected to a dust extraction system. On the one hand, it keeps the workshop clean, but on the other hand, the shavings are constantly clogged, so it’s worth keeping an eye on.

Professional and household rismus machines. This division is rather relative and there are no fundamental differences between professional, semi-professional and domestic models. However, models for professionals are usually more productive, reliable and designed for long-term continuous work, but cost much more than domestic models.

Razmusovy machine comparison

Today we will talk about the choice of a RASMUS machine. I must say that not every workshop needs a thicknesser. For example, it does not make sense to have it in the country house for a couple of boards a year, especially since such machines are not the cheapest. Before proceeding to the choice of a reissmus on the technical characteristics it is worth to decide on the upcoming amount of work. It is necessary in order to choose a price segment. Of course if you can afford it, you can buy an expensive professional machine and do not know the grief, but whether it is expedient?

Divide reismus on the volume of work can be divided into about five groups:

  • If you have a small amount of work on your garden plot, then perhaps the most logical would be to choose a multi-functional or otherwise combined machine. Such a machine can perform the functions of a circular saw, planer, wood planer, milling machine. But for serious works it is better to buy separate machines for each type of work.
  • When you need to process a large batch of wood (eg in the construction of their own country house), then it is worth paying attention to the budget wood planers. This JET JWP-12, Corvette 21, 22, Kalibr RR-1200 and others. If you compare the cost of a processed and unprocessed board, you can see that the purchase of the plank justifies itself and it will be able to serve you further.
  • The following machines are from the category of semi-professional and suitable for carpentry shops, low-rise construction teams and other activities on the processing of wood in which a decent amount. They include such machines as the famous Makita Makita 2012 NB, as well as Metabo DH 330, DeWALT DW 733, and others.
  • Professional machines for furniture factories, large workshops. These machines are such as. For example JET JWP-201 HH.
  • And the last group of thicknessers are professional machines and are designed for sawmills, wood processing plants. These include machines such as SCM Logic 23, MB 1013A and others.

Selection of a thicknesser

Once you have decided on the group in which you need to choose a planer you can proceed to the choice of machine by parameters. What parameters are important for the thicknesser?

Geometric performance. the maximum width and height of the workpiece. It is logical that the more they are in the machine, the greater the size of the workpiece you will be able to drive.

The planing depth is an important factor. The greater the depth, the less you have to run through the workpiece in case you need to remove a large layer. But the depth of planing directly correlates with the power of the machine engine.

Power of motor. The more powerful the engine, the easier it is to work. Low-powered engine of the thicknesser determines the need for several passes, but the engine with plenty of power will pull a workpiece of any wood and any moisture in one pass.

Shaft speed. The faster the rollers rotate, the cleaner and smoother the surface of the workpiece after treatment on the thicknesser.

Number of shafts. Household machines and combination machines in most cases have one shaft with several knives. serious machines have two shafts, one at the top and one at the bottom and allow for simultaneous processing of the workpiece from both sides. Three or more shafts are the prerogative of professional machines.

What else to look for when choosing a thicknesser, what other tips you can give? If you purchase a domestic machine, be sure to inspect it carefully. Often machines of the same manufacturer, the same make and even the same batch can differ greatly in quality of assembly and workmanship. Pay attention to the worktable. is it flat, without deformations, chips and other things? Be sure to inspect the shaft and blade mounts. But it concerns only home machines, the more serious thicknessers from reputable manufacturers do not suffer from it.

It wouldn’t hurt to buy a few spare blades and maybe some presser rollers, too.

Remember that a planer requires a lot of attention, care and maintenance. That will be the subject of a separate topic. If you have any questions, you can ask them in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев.

And a few videos on choosing a planer and with reviews of features.

The first video of the famous Makita 2012NB planer. Here is a video with a detailed review of this machine.

Lyfaks

Razmus machines are used in the furniture industry for planing wood blanks used in the manufacture of products. The equipment allows them to be properly geometrically formed.

Operating principle

The main method of processing workpieces on the machine is planing, also common with electric planers. Boards are manually fed onto the work table or fitted with rollers which press them onto the table surface. In the first case, the operator has to control the feeding speed himself, while in the second case, the workpiece moves at a speed automatically set by the program.

One of the sides is machined with knives, resulting in an even and smooth

Important requirement. before processing on the planer, the workpiece is planed in the planing machine. It can also be obtained by sawing with a circular saw

Planing tool is not only suitable for parallel-sided workpieces. If you use the lined templates (zulags), it is allowed to process bars with asymmetrical opposite sides.

The larger the lumber table, the better the surface finish will be. To do this, manufacturers increase its length. For the purpose of better planing, grooves are made in the wood to be worked, reducing the friction force. But even with these conditions the workpiece can be spoiled if the feed rate is high (especially with deep kerf). Maximum smoothness is given by reducing the rotation speed of the knife shaft and making the last passes to a shallow depth.

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