Where should the spark from an angle grinder fly?

Why sparks fly

Metal discs for angle grinders rotate at an incredibly high speed, and during rotation, the cutting material begins to heat up to a high temperature.

The smallest particles of metal, stone begin to heat up and form sparks during friction. The flow of sparks can be very dangerous for the operator as well as people and objects standing nearby. Sparks can burn, causing textiles or dry grass to catch fire.

When to cut with an angle grinder, sparks from yourself

There are several types of work with an angle grinder when it is necessary for the disc to rotate in the other direction, i.e., sparks from the operator. This is grinding work as well as tile, concrete and stone cutting. In this case, you can prevent a large amount of dust in the direction of the cutter.

However, it is mostly grinding work. But in all other cases you should always cut with the angle grinder so that sparks are flying in the direction of the operator and that’s why:

  • Thus, it is easier to counteract the “power of the angle grinder”;
  • Working with an angle grinder becomes safer. If the angle grinder suddenly breaks loose, it will fly away from the operator, not at him. Quite a different thing will happen if you cut with an angle grinder, looking away from yourself, the tool will fly in the direction of the cutter.

Many people are not unreasonably afraid that when cutting with an angle grinder on themselves, sparks and rocks will fly at them, which is very unsafe. To prevent this from happening, it is sufficient to adhere to the safety rules when working with an angle grinder.

Working with metal

Metal is the material for which the tool was originally designed. Using an angle grinder, you can easily cut a rail, rebar, cast iron, various metals. It is also possible to saw off a tube evenly without any problems. It should be said that metal cutting requires the utmost care and caution. In addition, special discs made of hard wire will be needed to clean the surface from scale or rust. If you have to work with this material, then you should follow a number of rules.

The angle grinder sparks and twitches. What is the problem? How to fix an angle grinder?

  • When working, pause after every 5-7 minutes of cutting. This will be especially important for household tools, which are not suitable for especially hard work. And the longevity of the device and discs will greatly depend on it.
  • The workpieces should be fixed as securely as possible, using clamps or a vice.
  • When cutting thick metal, it is best to cool it. This can be done by pouring cold water.
  • If you are cutting aluminum, then to reduce friction and better cool the disk, you can drop a little kerosene into the cut. But you have to be careful in terms of fire safety.

The main attention when working with metal should be paid to the cutting disc. Make sure that it is not crushed by the edges of the workpiece. The best would be if the piece, which is cut off, will be as if hanging in the air. This refers to cases when the work is carried out with such materials as pipes, angles, round bars, fittings and so on. It will also not be superfluous to note that the cutting of metal profiles. various rails, angles should not be carried out at once, and cut each part separately.

In thick workpieces all cuts should always be straight. If there is a need to make a certain contour of a curved type, then first you should make segmental straight through cuts and remove unnecessary parts. When working with metal, do not apply too much pressure on the device. Cutting too hard can cause breakage.

Safety precautions when working with an angle grinder

Grinding and cutting power tools are dangerous activities. Therefore, when working with an angle grinder, you must consider the possibility of direct or indirect exposure to health hazards:

  • cold or heat;
  • poor illumination of the workplace;
  • Strong noise, vibrations from the machine;
  • High physical strain;
  • rotating parts of the equipment;
  • falling objects (materials being worked on);
  • sparks and carbide particles flying off;
  • working at height, depth or in a confined, inaccessible area;
  • danger of electrical injuries.

Minimize the effects of hazards, and as a consequence, save life and your own health, you can follow the safety rules for operating appliances that have exposed rotating parts. This requires the use of personal protective equipment (PPE for short), good securing of the work pieces, choosing a safe place to start and end work correctly.

Personal Protective Equipment

Under the name PPE, or personal protective equipment means for individual use, which are used to protect against contamination, prevent or reduce the effects of harmful and dangerous factors. For most workers, this is work wear appropriate for the job. It usually includes pants, jacket, headgear, closed shoes. Since the angle grinder is a high-risk tool, clothing is supplemented by other means of protection:

  • goggles or face shield;
  • Noise-canceling earmuffs or earplugs;
  • Insulating gloves;
  • Respirator, especially when cutting stone, tile, concrete or slate.

Goggles will protect against sparks, small chips, or grinding disc. The use of headphones or ear plugs helps to get rid of noise, thus avoiding hearing difficulties after work. Gloves will protect against abrasion and vibration. And a respirator against the large amount of dust produced.

Securing the parts to be worked on

All small and medium-sized workpieces must be firmly clamped in a vice or with clamps. When securing, it is necessary to provide a safe place for the possible fall of the cut parts.

Sometimes it is necessary to process with an angle grinder large parts or structures that cannot be fixed in a vise. This may be:

In such cases it is necessary to make sure that the processed surface is securely fastened (stably standing or lying), does not lose stability after processing, and the cut part will not fall on the worker or others. In case of the slightest doubt it is necessary to support with supports, jacks or to fix the slings to the surrounding metal or reinforced concrete constructions.

Safety of the work place

Regardless of where the workplace is located. in the garage, in the country house or in an open area, it must be well lit, meet basic safety requirements.

Requirements for the equipment of the workplace:

  • a workbench, table, shelf, cupboard or drawer must be installed for storing, as well as placement of devices, tools for productive safe work.
  • All fixed equipment should be firmly placed (fastened) on the floor.
  • Bench and workbench surfaces must be no smaller than the workpieces and tools being machined.
  • The surface of workbenches are made of steel sheet, aluminum and other noncombustible materials.
  • The vise must clamp the workpieces securely. Every 2 to 3 mm of the jaw surfaces must have a 0,5. 1 mm deep cross-groove.
  • The vise must be fixed so that the workpieces to be machined are at the level of the worker’s elbow.
  • In a closed vice the gap between jaws should not be more than 0,1 mm. Handle and jaws. without potholes and burrs.
  • Moving part of the vice must not fall out when fully unscrewed and must move smoothly, without jerks.
  • The floor around the workbench and the entire work area must be dry and level.
  • Outlets for power tools are placed above the level of the work bench surface.

When working at height (more than 1,5 m) it is necessary to use scaffolding (scaffolding) with railing of 1 m, from below it is trimmed solidly to the height of 150 mm or higher.

It is not recommended to use supports, barrels, boxes, which happened to be at hand. Do not overload the scaffolding. In any case, when working with an angle grinder, it is necessary to have a level, solid surface under your feet.

Proper starting, stopping and interruptions

Before turning the appliance on, it is worth carefully inspecting and testing the drive. Do not use tools with chips, splits, cracks or any other damage.

Before you power on the angle grinder to install the cutting (grinding) disc with the drawing upwards, then clamp it with the special nut. The size as well as permissible revolutions are specified in the technical documentation of the tool.

Disc mismatches can lead at least to malfunctions and premature disc wear or, in the worst case, to personal injury.

When inspecting the tool, you need to check that:

  • there is no damage or cracks on the housing;
  • The cable (cord), protective tubes and plug are in good condition;
  • the handle is firmly screwed on;
  • The wheel is guarded and the guard is firmly fastened.

After that, the tool is checked for no-load operation. To do this, plug the plug into the socket, turn on the power button and the latch. Observe the angle grinder for a minute. check that it operates without unusual noise, excessive vibration and that the disc does not touch the guard. When disconnecting it, you will see if the power button and the locking mechanism are defective or not. If everything is okay, you can get to work.

To take a break from work, you must disconnect the power button, wait until the disc stops completely, put the angle grinder down and unplug it from the mains.

Interruptions in operation are usually due to overheating of the disc or angle grinder, change of attachments, the need to move the work pieces or the employee himself. In any case, first turn off the power button and then unplug it from the mains. It is important to keep an eye on the tool and prevent it from overheating.

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How to correctly cut with an angle grinder so that sparks do not fly at you: Overview Video

How to cut with an angle grinder so you don’t get sparks flying at you. Interestingly, the angle grinder can be found in most households and garages, but most owners of such tools simply do not know how to properly hold and cut the angle grinder.

For this reason, they often make mistakes that can lead to defective work, and even worse. to serious injury. It should be remembered that the angle grinder is a very dangerous tool.

For this reason, before you use it, you should learn about certain safety rules.

How to work with an angle grinder?

So you’ve bought the right “angle grinder” and discs for it. No experience with the angle grinder, the tool is dangerous and afraid to approach it. And you have to work. What to do? First of all, you need to take care of protective equipment. At least protect your face and hands. The mask-shield is convenient that protects the bottom part of the face, but fogs up at deep breaths. The goggles don’t have this disadvantage, but the nose and mouth are open to sparks. Therefore, it is desirable to use a respirator together with goggles.

Protective equipment

You should pay attention to the quality of fixing the mask to the straps. Usually this attachment consists of screws with plastic thumbs, which should be tightened as much as possible. Very uncomfortable when the mask dangles and falls off when bent forward.

The mask-shield can be made of Plexiglas or polycarbonate. The second option is preferable, because polycarbonate is much stronger than plexiglass. A shard of shattered disc will immediately penetrate plexiglass, and polycarbonate, though it will be penetrated, will hold back the shattered disc. Whether the damaged mask could withstand a second shrapnel hit is hard to say. Better not to push your luck and get a new mask.

Keep in mind that full protection is impossible to achieve neither from a mask-shield, nor from glasses. Sparks follow a completely incomprehensible trajectory and go under the mask. And sometimes, oddly enough, under glasses. One more peculiarity of cheap plastic masks and goggles. vulnerability to sparks: you should catch a shower of sparks, as plastic becomes dull.

It makes sense to buy a clear mask with head protection or even a welding mask. There are some closed masks with a breathing filter. They present a labyrinth of bulkheads (a splinter, having got there, spends all its inertia on ricochets between the walls).

A gas mask is the best protection for the head. Old army gas masks protect the eyes with glass eyepieces, which can cope with sparks. But the viewing angle is too small for comfortable work. Modern gas masks with a panoramic mask are much more convenient. Unfortunately, such protection is not cheap.

Gloves as protection when using an angle grinder

Gloves should be the right size so that there is no empty space at the fingertips. If you get your hand close to the disc and the dangling tip catches on the spinning disc, you risk missing the moment when it is not too late to move your hand. And the smaller is the “angle grinder“, the more urgent is this problem. If your glove is a perfect fit, the most you will get is a cut on the edge of the spinning disk.

A glove will not prevent a cut, but it will minimize the damage. Gloves are also useful because when you are working with sheet metal the cut edges are razor-sharp. In other words, a careless touch without gloves can make a deep cut. Metal heats up from friction and you could get burnt on the workpiece you have just cut if you do not use gloves. Clothing must not hinder movements, but nothing must hang down. Shoelaces, ties, belt loops or wide sleeves will be caught by the angle grinder so quickly that you won’t have time to realize it. The problem is, when you tighten the clothes, the tool gets close to your body, and not the fact that by this moment you have time to turn off the motor.

Angle Grinder Sparks High Speed (RX100 IV 960FPS)

Long hair must be gathered into a bundle or ponytail. Plain clothes can catch fire when struck by sparks. So over clothing is recommended to wear a thick apron for locksmith work or overalls impregnated with a flame-retardant composition.

In general, when working with a dangerous tool protection is not enough. The above described complex of protective equipment can be supplemented with shoes with metal sock. It protects your feet from being hit by disc splinters. It is possible to construct a real iron chain mail, using the experience of historical battles reenactors. A chainmail protects well against large splinters, but it will let the sparks through. The same applies to metal mesh masks.

The one who spends a lot of time with the “angle grinder” in his hands day after day, will be useful sound-insulating headphones or earplugs. After hours of work the buzzing in your ears will last for several days. And if you do this kind of work all the time without protecting your ears, you could damage your hearing.

Angle Grinder: 4 Mistakes to Avoid

Working with an angle grinder

The “angle grinder” itself is provided with minimum protection. It has only one safety feature: a guard that is mounted on the gearbox and covers half of the blade. This guard must be turned so as to protect the operator from sparks and shards of the blade when it breaks. An additional handle is placed over the guard to prevent your hand from coming into contact with the cutting edge. It is technically possible to install the handle on the opposite side of the housing, but then the hand would be in dangerous proximity to the work area, which is fraught with serious injury.

Correctness of installation is very important. Different masters put abrasive discs in different ways: some. with the label to the gearbox, others. with the label outward. Beginners often have a question, which installation option is correct? Meanwhile, due to the lack of teeth, the direction of the edge does not matter. There is, however, one nuance. The abrasive discs’ seating hole is framed by a metal ring, which, according to the manufacturer’s idea, is supposed to take some of the load when the flange self-clamps. Usually the disc is placed so that this ring was under the flange.

How to avoid self-tightening of the flange ?

Self-tightening of the flange is possible when the disk jams, when the disk and the flange lapped to it stop and the spindle continues to rotate.Self-clamping also occurs during a sharp start, when the flange and disc remain in place by inertia, and the spindle makes a jerk. Sometimes the flange is so tight that attempts to loosen the fastener break the open-end wrench, the locking button (it is plastic and therefore very fragile) and even the gear housing.

Avoid self-locking by putting a washer under the flange. It is possible to find a metal washer of a suitable size, or you can cut it out of plastic, cardboard or even paper. A rubber washer is a very good solution. When you tighten it, it stretches, and returns to the previous position after the tension subsides.

Naturally, when using brand-name mechanical superblades (BOSH, Makita) the problem of self-clamping ceases to be actual. But new problems also arise. For example, forgetting to press the hinged bracket, you risk catching the workpiece or workbench by it, which will lead to irreparable damage to the quick-clamping mechanism.

It might make sense to buy a primitive nut with a sliding washer that can be tightened with an ordinary wrench. Having minimum constructional elements such a nut is very reliable and rather cheap, and the main thing is that it solves the problem of self-clamping no worse than foreign miracle-mechanisms.

Working with a small angle grinder, not equipped with an automatic soft starter, the flange can be screwed by hand rather than with a wrench, because during the start jerk it will tighten well by itself. With a smooth start, screwing the flange with a wrench is a must. On large angle grinders, the nut should be tightened firmly with a wrench, even if the machine is not equipped with a soft start.

The choice of tooling deserves special attention. Very popular today cutting discs used for metal cutting. They consist of abrasive reinforced with fiberglass mesh.

Cutting materials with an angle grinder

To grind workpiece with the surface of the disk, in principle, you can, but do not: the grid is too close to the surface, and if it turns out to be damaged, the disk will lose its strength. Sharpening should be done either by the edge of the cutting disc or with special scraping discs. In addition, by sharpening with a stone on the sharpening machine, setting aside the “angle grinder” (in general, think as often as possible whether the planned work should really be done with an “angle grinder”).

For cutting stone, brick, concrete and tile, there are special diamond-coated cutting discs with cooling slots around the edge. It is recommended to cut these materials at low speed.

What can be cut with an angle grinder?

Many people look to the “angle grinder” when the need arises to cut wood, plywood, particle board or plastic. The angle grinder has too high a speed to do this kind of work. That’s why the cutting discs melt and spatter plastic, burn plywood and wood. And here many craftsmen are tempted to install a circular saw blade. The devil is in the details. Saw blade sizes are slightly larger than those of an angle grinder. But this “bit” is quite enough to prevent the installation of the blade guard.

It would seem that this is the first sign that you should abandon the idea, but the tempted master usually does not stop and removes the hood to put the saw blade. And it is much heavier than an abrasive blade! Due to its weight, it is not designed for speeds of 11000 (or even 7000) rpm. The result of going beyond the documented capabilities is a vibration that can be felt even on weak angle grinders. It is almost impossible to hold a strong machine (under 230 mm disc) with a circular saw blade because of the tremendous vibrations, and the gyroscopic effect prevents you from changing the position of the tool in space. Masters who have once worked with a large angle grinder with a circular saw blade describe a sensation that is almost unforgettable.

If the saw blade jams

If the saw blade jams, the kickback is not only hard, but also incredibly fast. You may simply not have time to react. When using a light and relatively weak abrasive disk, the force of the back jerk is limited by its strength. A machine with a steel blade running up to the limit would be ripped out of your hands by a quick and powerful blow. The trajectory along which it will fly is hard to predict. Steel rims can be torn as well; as a craftsman jokes grimly, someone who has seen such a disk rupture will never speak of it again.

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Recently saw blades with bore and outside diameter fitting an angle grinder have started to appear on the market. Imagine: you are holding a steel disk with a carbide tip in your hand (or a chain from a chainsaw). It’s heavy. probably made of steel. There are circular stripes on its surface. it seems that the disk is calibrated, packed in a good cardboard envelope, with a cellophane bag inside, even a sponge of soft plastic on the teeth. On the packaging in clear Russian language described its parameters and purpose, printed logo and even the address of the site. And when you go to the site it turns out that the company does not produce anything, but only exports consumables from China.

One can only guess what basement, what equipment and what materials were used to produce the disk. And the inserts seem to have the same appearance as the tungsten carbide inserts, and they seem to hold up fine. But there’s no guarantee that welding will be reliable, and no one knows how quickly the flakes will start to come off.

spark, angle, grinder

Watch out! Do not put the saw blade in the angle grinder

it is necessary to remember firmly: “angle grinder” is not designed for using a toothed disc. The steel disc is too heavy for this speed, and the angle grinder is too sensitive to tilt and misalignment. Yes, the first time no name discs do not fly to pieces, they cut instantly and give a perfectly smooth cut. But in case the filler plate comes off or the steel breaks and turns out to be only an alloy that looks like steel, there will be nobody to call to account: the manufacturer is unknown.

The manufacturers of wood saw blades for angle grinder

No name brand produces saw blades for angle grinder. Unlike nameless Chinese basements that only want to cover demand and make money. Reputable manufacturers value their reputations. Showing such blatant incompetence, the company would have had to pay not only with money, but also with a permanent loss of the name. That’s why their venerable gentlemen don’t produce consumables that violate safety standards. Saw blades must not be used on angle grinders, period.

Nevertheless, there are legitimate attempts by well-known manufacturers to make the angle grinder more versatile. For example, BOSH makes a universal cutting disc Multi Wheell 2 608 623 013. It is a carbide abrasive disc (not a saw blade, mind you) with cooling slots. They noticeably reduce material heat. There are no protruding elements in the slots. Compared with “chiseled” brand-name ones from China, this blade gives a slightly choppy cut. But no more dangerous than a normal abrasive disk. It cuts through metal, plastic, wood, plywood and particleboard just fine. It doesn’t even trip over nails. it grinds them up like an ordinary cutting wheel.

Grinding disks on a bolt cutter

Grinding cups are usually protruding beyond the hood, and some require removal of the hood altogether. In this case, wear protection. mask, respirator, overalls and gloves. is decisive. If the abrasive discs split into pieces, the wire grinding cups throw in all directions thin wires that deeply penetrate into the body (they are especially dangerous if they get into unprotected airways, mouth cavity, sclera and cornea).

Alone, they are hardly noticeable, so they cannot always be removed at home. Meanwhile, the irritation they cause is serious enough to drive the victim to a hospital bed. It follows that when using grinding cups, protecting the machine makes no sense. On the other hand the arm guards, which are in any case indispensable, become critical.

So, the safety rules are observed, the “angle grinder” is assembled, the tooling is installed. Now it’s time to get ready for work. First of all, the workpiece should be well secured. Some craftsmen simply press the pipe with their foot when cutting it. And when cutting bricks, they are simply put on a flat, stable surface. This is highly undesirable: a well-fixed workpiece is much more convenient to handle. hands are freed up for a better grip, the feet are freed up for a more secure footing and the body gets more freedom, making the work more comfortable and safer. Do not place the workpiece on two supports and saw in the middle. As the workpiece deepens, it will begin to sag toward the saw and jam the disk. It is better to secure one side of the workpiece, leaving the other side hanging. In this case, the cut end falls off outward and the saw only expands, which not only helps avoid jamming, but also makes it easier to work.

How to hold the angle grinder more comfortably?

There is no consensus about how to hold an angle grinder comfortably. Despite its simple design, the angle grinder allows a wide range of grip options. Suitable grip each master chooses for himself. The main thing. remember that the cover must be between the master and the disc, as well as between the disc and the additional handle. No parts of the body should be in the plane of the disk rotation, or more exactly in the zone of disk sparks and splinters dispersion (this rule is easy to observe if a protective cover is installed).

Angle grinder bodies are of two types: one-handed (you can hold with one hand the body, the power button is located directly on the body) and two-handed (have in the back of the “tail” with a button, the “tail” is convenient to hold with one hand, holding the other for an additional handle). Usually small and weak “angle grinder” are made one-handed. Whereas the big and strong ones are made with a two-handed grinder. With a two-handed grip, one hand acts as a primary and the other as a secondary.

There is no consensus about what hand role should be allotted. Some craftsmen believe that the primary hand is the one that holds the body (for one-handed machines), and the secondary hand is the one that holds the additional handle. Others see the main hand holding the additional handle (in their opinion, it guides the tool), while the other hand only supports the body (or “tail” if the “angle grinder” is two-handed). To understand what position is more convenient, you should try to work in different positions.

Three sockets for additional handle

Most modern angle grinders have three slots for an auxiliary handle: two on each side (perpendicular to the spindle) and one on the back of the gearbox (parallel to the spindle). It was said above that you should not put the handle at the open part of the disc. That leaves two seating positions: at the hood and at the “back of the head”. It must be remembered that the hand in pronation (palm down) is very unstable and the most stable hand position is semi-pronation (palm sideways). When preparing the angle grinder for cutting, the handle must be set perpendicular to the spindle. When the disc is vertical, which is typical for cutting, the handle will stand upright and the hand of the craftsman will assume the most stable position. semi-pronation.

Same goes for grinding: when the disk is horizontal, it is better to put the handle on the back side of the gearbox, so that it stands upright. Since grinding is performed by the grinding wheel surface and the disc is not immersed in the material, this process is not as sensitive to tooling misalignment as cutting. For this reason, a horizontal handle position is acceptable. Some cheap angle grinders do not even have a back seat for the handle. If desired, it is possible to design a bracket for such a machine that can be screwed to the side holes and is equipped with a handle attachment. The pull must be strong enough and preferably made of thick, durable metal. Such staples are industrially produced; they are much more convenient than self-made ones, although they are quite expensive.

Where should the sparks be directed when working with an angle grinder??

There is a lot of debate as to whether the sparks should point away or toward you. It is considered the most correct position of the angle grinder, when the sparks fly toward the body of the machine. Given the standard direction of rotation of all “bolsters”, this direction of sparks assumes that the spindle is to the left, if you hold the tool sideways. Or forward if you hold the tool with the spindle away from you. Nevertheless, there are at least two handle sockets on the gearbox. And putting it at the open edge of the disk, as already mentioned, is not allowed.

So, tool manufacturers allow the installation of a handle and guard to work sparks away. In fact, there’s nothing terrible about such a direction of sparks. You just need to understand where the debris of the disc and the car itself will fly in the event of a reverse impact. It depends directly on the direction of the force vector. And this vector goes from the point of contact in the direction opposite to the direction of rotation of the disc.

It is possible to touch the workpiece in such a way that a reverse bump would throw the machine right back in the master’s face. Or you can do it the other way around, so that the car jumps up or goes sideways. To predict the direction of the reverse jerk is not difficult, if you imagine the disc as a wheel that can push off the material and drive. Regardless of the direction of the sparks, you have to hold the machine so that when it jams and pulls out of your hands, it will either move away from you or pass you. Successful selection of the point of contact of the disc with the material will make the work of the sparks away from itself safe.

How not to overheat?

To avoid overheating the blade after 60 seconds of continuous work, remove it from the cut for 30 seconds without turning off the machine. Overheating a disc makes it less durable and burns the edges of the cut. Do not tilt the machine when the rotating blade is in the kerf. This creates a risk of jamming, and the cut is uneven. When cutting metal, only wear safety glasses and goggles when looking into the work area on the spindle side (where the blade is not covered).

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Abrasive discs will wear not only in diameter but also in thickness. When replacing a worn disc with a new one, be aware that it is several microns thicker. If you drive into a cut that has already been started, the blade is likely to get stuck. That’s why after changing tooling you must enter the starting cut from the opposite side of the fork.

To prevent the discs from wearing out too quickly, always cut metal with the reduction unit facing forward so the disc hits the material from top to bottom. When driving backward with the gear, the disk goes from bottom to top, and can noticeably wear off already by the end of the cut if the cut is long enough.

Remember that during the coasting (this is called the inertial rotation after shutdown) disc is no less dangerous than when the engine is on. If you touch the body with the disc while it is still moving, you could seriously injure yourself. Do not put and especially do not throw the angle grinder down with the disc during coasting.After switching off the motor, wait until the spindle comes to a complete stop. It is possible to brake the disc against the material. In order not to spoil the workpiece, especially for this purpose, you can fix a small fragment of material near the workplace.

Cutting grinder “angle grinder”

As a grinder, the angle grinder cuts at high speed. There is no need to apply pressure to the tool. cutting must be effortless, otherwise the tool will jam. As the disc sinks into the material, the friction area increases, so if the disc jams, the machine jerks the entire body. Probably will fly tumbling, everything will happen very quickly. You should only dip the disc a couple of millimeters deep, which is not difficult when cutting thin sheet material.

The friction area will be small enough, in addition, the point of contact will be at the edge of the disk. And if the tool jams, it will simply drive away, like a one-wheeled machine. When cutting thick workpieces, do not plunge the disc deeper than necessary. In general, it is better not to cut thick workpieces “angle grinder”, and take a more appropriate tool for this.

Here it is impossible not to mention that the common view of the universality of the angle grinder arose because of the cheapness of this tool. In fact, craftsmen who try to do “angle grinder” most of the work, wishful thinking in order to save money. angle grinder is a grinder, and the possibility of cutting with it is secondary, if not to say incidental.

It is necessary to try as little as possible to use “angle grinder” for cutting. It is convenient and safe to cut long thick boards with a circular saw, it is more convenient to cut trees with a gasoline chain saw, curved cuts in plywood and chipboard are convenient to make with a jigsaw. And for small cuts, recesses, cuts with sharp angles and light sanding, the multifunctional and safe oscilloscope is suitable.

A few general remarks

the angle grinder refers to high-speed tools, and that is where its danger lies. Disc jamming when cutting is especially dangerous, which should be avoided in every possible way. Those who cut with an angle grinder should remember the rule: the angle grinder loves precision! The reason for this capriciousness is that cutting is a side function of the angle grinder. Its main purpose is grinding, which does not involve plunging the disc into the material. There is another important point. It is necessary to put a disk on a workpiece not before engine switching on, but after.

It is clear that it is impossible to tell all the subtleties of the case in one article. The more background material you learn, the better. Particular attention must be paid to safety. Carefully study the types of injuries possible when working with an angle grinder, and ways to avoid them. There are quite a few videos on the web, where experienced craftsmen and traumatologists talk about it, the safety rules are widely discussed on thematic Internet forums. If you know any experienced locksmiths, you’d better talk to them in person and take a few lessons at the shop.

The most important thing is to imagine clearly at each moment what will happen in a moment. The craftsman must be one hundred percent in control of the situation. It’s good to understand how the tool works, what can and can’t happen, and always know exactly what it does and where it will lead. Relaxed carelessness of modern man, acceptable at work at the computer, can play a cruel joke when working with a dangerous tool. The craftsman must think on the fly, naturally and quickly, like a soldier on the battlefield.

It is important just do not forget that when you drive the angle grinder on yourself, sparks must necessarily fly in the other direction. This minimizes the risk of the disc jamming. It always stays there, though. That’s why when you move the tool on itself you must necessarily move away from the mowing line of the cut.

Cut with the angle grinder should be so that the direction of rotation of the disk was in a clockwise direction. Thus, you are pulling the angle grinder to yourself by applying effort, when you move the angle grinder, it will move away from you and in case you lose control over it, it will “bounce away from you” in the opposite direction.

Can you use an angle grinder to cut sparks from yourself??

Safety precautions have never been abolished. The weirdo in the video doesn’t seem to be thinking straight.Here, for the general development: Watching is a must

and add on my own. all summer building a house with my father.His friend lives next door (the site where we build the house, the place where my father was born and grew up).So his comrade, was sawing iron, swearing in foul language, and helped him drunken little man. I do not know what happened and how, he does not remember, said only a circle jammed (angle grinder was large with a large circle), but sawed off his hand just below the elbow. It was in August. The local hospital called a helicopter from Samara to bring him to Seredavin for the operation. I don’t know what’s wrong, but the brush doesn’t seem to be working right.

Everyone jerks off as he pleases.But here’s an angle grinder cuts sparks on itself

Quote (Lexus31 10.11.2016. 01:32)
I’ll explain popularly. When we cut with sparks from itself and pull the tool on itself, then if you bite the disk (not so pressed or the hand is not strong and did not hold, etc.), the tool will not bite.д.) The tool is drawn to the object/part to be cut. With any other direction, the angle grinder will knock the angle grinder out toward the cutter.))

How does he twist the disk in general? if he’s left-handed, if he’s left-handed, if he’s left-handed with his own, then he cuts the part with the side of the disk closer to himself, moving the disk closer to himself. If vice versa, then the outer side of the disk and away from himself. It’s more comfortable to feel the cutting process. In general, all the “metal workers” I met at the market cut with sparks to themselves and the outer side of the disk moving it away from them.

Here’s one of those who will soon find himself in the “death by angle grinder” thread.

it pissed me off when at work one unique guy rearranged the blade guard and the handle to cut away from himself. and yelled that it was right, like, why the fuck do you cut with the sparks towards yourself? the man was of age, that’s why they forgave him. and it was fucking annoying to move the blade afterwards. on yours. Wank it any way you want.

spark, angle, grinder

And if you’re left-handed. It’s a different market. They even have guitars in reverse.so you can fuckin’ understand them.)))

I’m gonna go cut myself a sausage and have a burger at bedtime.Why else would there be a light in the fridge??

spark, angle, grinder

Fuck, he swears like a cobbler and thinks he has the right to insult those who don’t agree with him.

1) explain to me, the motherfucker in his version, why the pre-installed pouches are from the factory to mount the saw blade disc on itself?2) if you cut a rail mounted on a workbench it’s one thing, if you saw, for example, a metal plate with the saw away from you, then how? Т. к. If you start at the beginning, you’re gonna get fucked up with the sheet. If you start at the end, you have to hold the angle grinder at outstretched arms, which, for me, I don’t give a fuck about that kind of safety.

The one in the video. fuckin’. As a rule, when jammed it crumbles and gets stuck in the cover. I worked with a Norton 230mm diamond wire saw blade. Fucking in practice the drive, lasted about 2 years, though and cost about 150 euros. So when it got jammed, the blade was on its own and the angle grinder fuckin’ ran the fuck away from me like a dick, even though I was holdin’ it tight. I can’t even imagine what would happen if the drive was sawed off myself an angle grinder, by the way, a Bosch 2.5kW. The lock button worked on the first blow. There was no spinning, but I was very surprised.

So, I can safely say, after his dirty words, that he. DICK, DICKHEAD AND CUNT

Why the angle grinder can not cut from yourself, and what is the danger

Why the angle grinder can not cut away from yourself, and what is the risk

The high-speed, high-pitched, high-revving, injury-prone, but so indispensable in the household These words can be used to describe the well-known angle grinder or simply. angle grinder.

Millions of people are affected one way or another by this tool. Many have a sad experience, because they do not know how to work with it.

an angle grinder is a very dangerous tool indeed. It is only necessary to perform an incorrect movement, and here, the drive with a speed of 300 km / h flies in different directions, carrying a danger to everyone who is near.

Careless and improper handling of this cutting tool can have dire consequences. Many of them are caused by misuse of the angle grinder, or to be more exact, by misunderstanding in what direction you need to cut. from yourself or on yourself.

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