What tool is needed for air conditioner installation

How to install the air conditioner yourself

In order not to pine for the heat in the summer, and in the cold period to heat the rooms, you planned to buy an inverter or conventional split system. And you want to put and connect it yourself, in order to save money on professional installation (which is not always the case).

Our publication has 2 tasks: to tell how to install conditioner with your hands and to analyze if it is economically sound. Let’s go in a reverse order and at first we will compare the expenses at one’s own hand and order installation, and for this we will list

In a word. the connection is made to the appropriate connectors on the blocks. Since the cable is already connected, it remains to connect the pipeline and deal with drainage.



It is possible to leave as it is with indoor unit and in this case the condensate will drop on the street. This solution is more common, but not quite right. If you perform the work according to technology, then the drain is connected to the sewage system. To simplify the task with the outdoor unit, a small corrugated tube is put on the drain connector. Condensate in this case will also be carried out on the street.


One should pay much attention to the copper pipe installation. Depends on the thoroughness of the work you do the reliability and durability of the whole system. If along the communications height difference is more than 5 meters, the pipes are looped. This will allow to catch the oil dissolved in freon. At smaller drops the loop is not necessary.

If the pipeline requires bends it is necessary to use a special device for this operation. No bends or kinks in the tubes. All turns of the system should be as smoothly as possible.

Connection of the pipeline should begin with the indoor unit. Before installation, it is prepared. nuts are tightened from the connection terminals and plugs are removed. A hissing noise must be heard as the nuts are loosened. Nitrogen is injected into the unit at the factory to protect the internals against oxidation. Plugs should be taken out after the gas has fully escaped.


Before starting this operation, the nuts removed from the unit must be put on the pipe with the thread to the connector. Temporary plugs are removed from the pipeline and the edges are inspected. There must be no burrs and the cross-section must be circular.

If the pipes are cut to any other shape than the nominal size, a calibration tool can be used to restore the shape. Alignment is accomplished by inserting it into the tube and turning it a few times. It is desirable that the edges of the pipeline at least 5 centimeters have the maximum correct shape.


This is the most critical operation. It is necessary to achieve the maximum tightness in the system to minimize the leakage of freon and consequently reduce the frequency of topping-ups.

When flaring, hold the tube with the bore facing downward to reduce the risk of debris entering the tube. Clamp it in the expansion joint so that exactly 2 mm comes out, no more, no less. After fixing the pipe, a special cone included in the tool set is installed in it. To unscrew it, it is screwed into the pipe until it cannot be rotated.

Since the pipe used is thick-walled, you will have to exert considerable effort. If you have no experience in such work, to avoid defects, it is better to conduct testing on small scraps. The result should be an even and continuous edge with a clear border.

Hooking up to a port

After expansion, the pipe is connected to the appropriate outlet, to which a nut is screwed. Do not use any type of sealant or gasket. The pipe material is high quality copper. If the flare is properly made, sealing is accomplished without the use of additional tools.

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When you tighten the nuts on the fitting, the applied force should be in the range of 60-70 kilograms, which is serious enough. But this is the only way to ensure that the connector is securely crimped by the tube. After that, all operations are repeated with the remaining outlets.

What tools are necessary for independent installation of air conditioner

At one moment you can feel in yourself the power to install conditioner or split-system by yourself, saving money and deserving respect of your family members. As true sayings say: “Gods do not fire pots” and “knowledge is not carried by shoulders”.

In this article we will not review the technological process of installation of this variant of climatic equipment, but simply tell you what tools you may need for this, and why exactly.

  • Vacuum pumps (vacuum cleaners)
  • Universal tool kits
  • Expanding tools, expanding tools kits, unscrewing tools
  • Electronic scales for freon
  • Manometric manifolds
  • Filling hoses for manometric manifolds
  • Service valves, quick disconnects
  • Freon Adapters

For small capacity domestic conditioners the hole with diameter of 40-45 mm is necessary. For the beginners 45 mm is better. One shouldn’t use several holes of small diameter because it is rather problematic to drill a hole of small diameter in the wall of big length.

What tool is necessary for installation of the conditioner

But that’s not all. For installation of air conditioner you need the following tools:

  • Electronic scales and automatic dispensers.
  • Auxiliary tools.
  • Crimping tools.
  • Tube benders.
  • Tube benders.
  • Stations for flushing refrigerating circuits.
  • Rollers.
  • Construction tool.
  • Station for the collection and recovery of the refrigerant. It is necessary at replacement of all types of compressors, as well as at performance of routine maintenance of semi-hermetic compressors.
  • Station for cleaning the refrigerating circuit. It is designed for flushing equipment after compressor burnout, removal of acids, replacement of refrigerant and oil.
  • Refrigerant collection bottle. At the same time it is forbidden to use used cylinders from the coolant, as well as to interfere with their construction.
  • Vacuum pumps. They are used for vacuumization of the refrigeration systems (removal of air and moisture from them). There are single-stage and two-stage pumps. Two-stage pumps needed for 400 series and R32 refrigerants.
  • Electronic scales. Scales are designed to control the quantity of refrigerant to be charged or recharged into the refrigeration circuit.
  • Manometer manifolds with hoses. Analogue or electronic manometric manifolds are necessary for controlling operating parameters of climate and refrigeration equipment.
  • Quick disconnects. They minimize refrigerant loss when installing and removing charging hoses to service ports (shredders).
  • Electronic halogen leakage detectors. The device is needed to detect refrigerant leaks.
  • Ultraviolet leakage detectors. They are needed for leak detection in branched refrigeration systems. To detect leaks, special reagents are injected into the system, to which the device reacts.
  • Thermohygrometers. They measure temperature, relative humidity and dew point of the air in the cooled object.
  • Thermometers.
  • Anemometers. They are needed for balancing air in ducts, measuring airflow rates. Wing anemometers are used.
  • Noise meters. They are designed to measure the effective values of acoustic noise levels
  • Multitestors. They are used to measure electrical parameters (line voltage, operating currents, electrical motor winding resistance and thermistors, starting capacitance).
  • Welding machines and torches.
  • Solders.
  • Flux meters.

Since 2001 our company “Continent of climate” is engaged in designing, installation and repair of household and industrial air conditioners in Moscow region. We do the work quickly, efficiently and at reasonable prices. Contact us anytime at 8 (926) 18 89 636.

Air conditioners

Even if you install it yourself, you will definitely need help. This is due to the rather large weight of the external unit of the air conditioner and the work that will be carried out on the outside of the building.

Step #1. preparation of tools and materials

When installing the air conditioning system with your own hands in the apartment an important role is played by the preparation of the upcoming work. Necessary set of equipment, materials and tools used will provide uninterrupted work on air conditioner installation.

Thus, the following tools will be needed for the installation:

  • Peorator, the main tool for making through holes in the wall;
  • Drill with a set of drills is necessary for making holes for fasteners;
  • vacuum pump to start air conditioning system;
  • Metal hacksaw or a special pipe cutter for copper pipes;
  • file or sandpaper for smoothing the surface of the pipes; to ensure that the necessary shape of the pipe system;
  • pipe calibrator and flare gun;
  • screwdriver (or chisel with a hammer);
  • level;
  • screwdrivers;
  • a set of Allen wrenches.
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Independent installation of the conditioner is impossible without these tools.

Also before starting work it is necessary to prepare consumables:

  • power cable for making the power supply wire and connecting the modules, a four-core cable with a cross section of 2 x 2.5 mm 2 should be used;
  • Seamless copper pipes their length should exceed the assumed length of the line by 50 cm, and the diameter of the pipes should be selected in accordance with the air conditioner‘s manual;
  • synthetic and insulating insulators;
  • corrugated hose with built-in internal plastic spiral for drainage its length should be longer than the calculated length of the route by 1 meter;
  • steel brackets for mounting of the external block of air-conditioner. The load limit of the brackets is calculated according to the weight of the block (the brackets should carry twice the weight of the external block);
  • Fixing elements selected for mounting the bracket and the indoor unit of the air conditioner.

When installing it is better to use quality materials, matching them directly to your equipment. This will ensure reliable operation of the system.

Step #2. outdoor unit installation

Further we will consider how to install outdoor conditioner.

To the above-mentioned general requirements you should add the following:

  • installation must be carried out on the load-bearing elements of the building facade or balcony;
  • if the walls are made of aerated concrete, it is obligatory to use damping gasket;
  • Noise level should not exceed 30 dB;
  • When installing on a balcony or attic, you should consider the possibility of vibrations during operation of the equipment;
  • When installing at the height of 3 floors and higher. the work must be carried out by the installers from a height with the use of climbing equipment.

When all these requirements are met, you can proceed to install the outdoor unit of the air conditioner.

After deciding on the installation option: on the balcony, under a window or next to a window, you must make a marking using the level. After marking by the pen all necessary apertures are made for mounting brackets and wiring the system of pipes inside the room, into which anchor bolts are inserted.

It is worth noting that in houses with no thermal insulation, the diameter of the hole for the air conditioner communication systems should be 50 mm, and where thermal insulation is used, not less than 80 mm.

Brackets are fastened with bolts, which should be tightened as firmly as possible. Take into account that while installing external unit can weigh more than 20 kg, that’s why you should have a helper’s assistance while mounting it.

External unit is hung on the bracket. It is necessary to put a rubber in places of contact of a bracket and an external block of air conditioner beforehand. Thanks to this layer, the vibration from the air conditioner will be smoothed.

Step #3. installation of the indoor unit

To install the indoor unit of a household air conditioner should also be guided by all the above requirements. Consider also that the outdoor unit and indoor unit should be set relative to each other at a distance of no more than 6 meters.

When working indoors it is necessary to:

  • Prepare the place for work by removing curtains and removing household appliances or furniture from the wall on which the air conditioner will be installed;
  • check the availability of the electrical network (sockets) to connect the air conditioner to it, if the standard power cable of the device is not enough, you will have to extend it;
  • Carry out mounting of the unit on the wall or ceiling.

In the room where the air conditioner indoor unit is installed, it is necessary to make a marking using a level, and then make holes in the wall with a drill and organize the fixing for the air conditioner indoor unit. It is lighter than the external one, but nevertheless the fasteners should hold it firmly.

Insert plastic dowels into the holes and fix them as much as possible with a hammer. Having attached the assembly panel of a conditioner fix it with self-tapping screws. After that, hang the indoor unit.

Step #4. installation of equipment communications

The air conditioner utilities include:

At installation of the external block by the peorator a hole is made in a wall, which is called a trunk channel. It should be of necessary diameter so that it is possible to run through it the communications.

For uninterrupted operation of the air conditioner, whose power is more than 1.5 kW, it is recommended to make a separate power line. For this purpose it is necessary to connect one more circuit breaker to the main board and from it to run a four-wire cable directly to the place of installation of the conditioner. Be sure to determine the zero and the phase when making connections.

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It is worth noting that work with electricity is considered dangerous and must not be performed without knowing the basics of electrical engineering.

The piping system should be installed with utmost care, as a breach of tightness will result in a leak of life-threatening freon.

  • Copper pipe must be cut to the required length with a 1-meter bend reserve;
  • the edges are ground with sandpaper or a file;
  • the bending of the pipes must be carried out with a radius of at least 10 cm;
  • to insulate pipes, special polyurethane foam hoses are put on them
  • flare the ends of the tubes and connect the pipe;
  • After joining tighten the flange of the connector.

To give a better tightness of the pipe system, professionals recommend soldering copper tubes. The brazing is done with the help of propane heater: the pipe is heated up to the temperature of 250 degrees and a special solder is used. It can be made by following soft solders: L-SnCu3 (S-Sn97Cu3) and L-SnAg5 (S-Sn97Ag5). They provide a reliable connection, resistance to mechanical stress and corrosion.

After making the connection between the outdoor unit and the indoor unit according to the instructions, you should begin to assemble the drainage system. The output of used liquid can be carried out outside the room or in a special container inside the room. It is recommended to arrange the output of the drain outside the room.

The drainage channel must be made of reinforced plastic pipe. It is enough to connect it with a flange to the drain. The pipe for drainage of the liquid must be laid with a slope of at least 3 mm per 1 m.

After completing these works on the exit of communications from the indoor unit is stretched corrugated, and the connection should be secured with a clamp. Outdoor unit connections are sealed with a hose. Possible gaps in the through-hole are sealed with assembly foam.

In more detail about the installation of communications we spoke in the following publication.

Wiring connection of air conditioner

Lay the wiring for the indoor unit in the room, the minimum cross section of the cable should be 1.5 kV. mm. Be sure to install a separate circuit breaker to the power supply. Connect the wiring to the panelboard at the entrance: connect the yellow wire with a green stripe to the neutral wire. To determine the zero and phase in the switchboard, use an indicator.

Connect the terminals of both units with insulated stranded wires, passing them through the hole drilled in the wall. Make sure the names of the terminals match the wires. All wiring scheme is shown in detail in manual to your model of split-system.

Tool for air conditioner installation

To perform all works we need a large list of various hand and special tools.

The list of instruments:

  • Peorator;
  • Drill of a suitable length and diameter of 40-50 mm;
  • Electric screwdriver;
  • Inch set for flaring copper pipe;
  • Special springs for bending pipes;
  • Vacuum pump;
  • Hoses with a gauge manifold;
  • Small tools. level, screwdriver, hexes, wrenches.

Installing the split system: step by step manual on assembling by yourself

By controlling the microclimate of our personal space we create optimal conditions for rest, work, and activities. A split system installation will allow you to set a favorable temperature and moisture level in the easiest way. You will agree that in summer there are many days when it is necessary to regulate climatic parameters.

After reading our proposed article, you will learn all the details and subtleties of the work on the installation of air conditioning equipment. Carefully selected and systematized information will come in handy for both do-it-yourself home craftsmen and customers of installers to verify proper performance.

We have a detailed description of the installation process, listed the nuances of the location and fixing units. The materials required to install and connect the units are listed. A valuable addition to the text, which facilitates the perception of the information, are photo and video annexes.

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