What to make a collar for the compressor

Recommendations for selection

Choosing a check valve, you should consider a number of parameters. These include in particular:

  • The intensity of the air flow that will be transported through the system;
  • Capacity of the air-handling unit on which the non-return valve will be installed;
  • capacity of the device pumped out air, which can be a compressor or fan;
  • The degree of contamination of the working medium, which will be transported through the elements of the created system;
  • The operating temperature range.

In addition, the type of medium with which the elements of the valve device will be in contact must also be taken into account. This parameter has a direct influence on the choice of material of the valve, which must have the required durability.

DOMOSTROYS Plumbing and construction

Below watch the video about how to make the cuff for the pump out of leather, and express your opinion about it in your feedback to the article.

For a correct answer to how to make a leather pump cuff, watch this video. After watching it, you won’t need to seek help from an expert. Detailed instructions to help you solve your problems. Enjoy watching.

Humor in the theme: They lived like a bay and a bay: he poured and she poured.

DOMOSTROYS Plumbing and construction

Watch the video below about how to make a leather pump cuff and tell us your opinion about it in your reviews of the article.

To give a proper answer to the question How to make a cuff for a pump out of leather you need to watch the video. After watching this you won’t need to seek professional help. Detailed instructions will help you solve your problems. Enjoy watching it.

Humor in the theme: They lived like a bay and a bay: he poured, and she poured.

The pump (that pumps the wheels) is broken. where to buy the collar.

Group: Moderators Message: 6 617 Registration: 18.8.2005 Insert nickname Quote From: Smolensk, Russia User#: 261 Thanks said: 194 Your car: Mitsubishi Outlander Real name: Ivan

Disassembled the pump, the diagnosis. cracks in the cuff (the one that pushes air). Where to get a new one?? I went to the court. they said no, it does not exist and do not look for it. Well, really because of one rubber band to buy a new pump. They have to be sold somewhere. Where to look for?

Group: Advanced Users Message: 1 423 Registration: 18.3.2008 Insert nickname quote From: Smolensk User #: 7 884 Thanks says: 1287 Your car: VAZ-2171 Real Name: Vlad

Disassembled the pump, the diagnosis. the cuff (the one that pushes air). And where to get a new one?? Crawled into the court. said no, will not, does not happen, and do not look. Do I really have to buy a new pump because of one rubber band? They should be for sale somewhere. Where to look?

When I was a kid, I used to make a sleeve for a bicycle pump myself out of a regular piece of rubber. Try it, maybe it will work.

What to Make a Compressor Cuff From

Practice showed that the best is SchRUS-4 or its analogues.It works perfectly, costs very cheap, is in any auto store, tube lasts long.

When lubricating (relubricating) the compressor of the PPP, you need to observe two things: actually lubricate the compressor and ensure that in the working area of the compressor there is as little excess grease as possible. There are quite a few stories and photos about diesel from grease and its devastating consequences.

A very simple method will allow you to lubricate the compressor so that there is practically no residue in it.

For compressor lubrication/re-lubrication, I keep in stock three patches wound on long rams:

1) The first, directly to lubricate, just a few layers of cotton cloth. Two or three even layers and tack at the base with threads so it doesn’t fly off.2) The second, for soaking, I make each time anew, from rough hygroscopic paper, budget toilet paper for five rolls is ideal. I don’t make the patch very high, but it should be wide enough (at least a centimeter) and preferably with a flat face, i.e.к. it will soak the bottom of the compressor. It is also made by winding several layers together and sewn together with string.3) The third, for flushing, is made of cotton cloth, with the same recommendations as the second patch.

Now, how does the relubrication procedure look like?

Perform a partial disassembly of the rifle and remove the piston with the old cuff. Do not rush to remove the old cuff at once, t.к. It will come in handy for the procedure.

So, the piston is out. At the beginning, either with a rough rag or rough hygroscopic paper, and wipe off the old grease in the compressor. Next, I take the N1 grease patch, slather it on the shrouding and lubricate the compressor. Not too thick, but the walls of the compressor should be completely lubricated and it should be visible.

After lubrication, and this is almost the most important point of my method, I take the piston with the old cuff, put it in the compressor and bring it to the end. All surplus lubricant is raked up by the lip seal in front of it and deposited at the bottom of the compressor. The piston can be removed and left to replace the collar. If the lipstick is not replaced, it needs to be wiped clean of grease.

With the N2 patch, I collect all the grease left in the bottom of the compressor.

Before the final cleaning of the compressor bottom I take a cotton swab, dip it in acetone, squeeze out the grease clogged in the bypass channel and clean the channel.

I wet the N3 patch in acetone and virtually wipe off the grease left on the bottom of the compressor after the N2 patch and the cotton swab I used to clean the by-pass. After acquiring some skill, it turns out very nicely. The compressor bottom is absolutely clean and dry.

This tip is especially useful for hard material seals, which can not get on the mushroom and get spoiled if you try to use handy tools, such as screwdrivers.

Immediately, why the jaws are rigid at all. The fact is, the stiffer the cuff, the better it works in magnum and super-magnum spring piston airguns. The best cuff material should be stiff and slippery.

So: 1) Pre-lubricate the piston cup a very small amount of grease, I use SchRUS-4; 2) Put the cuff in a steep boiling water for 30-40 seconds; 3) Take out the cuff, blow water out of it, blot dry rags; 4) Put the cuff on an even non-slippery surface and screwing movements put it on the head of the piston. Sometimes you can help halfway up the collar with a blunt flat-edged screwdriver, as when mounting a tire at a tire dealer, but it takes skill. П.3 and n.Do it quickly while the cuff is hot and slippery. If you can’t put it on straight away and the cuff has cooled down, it’s hardening again. better to do it again with a p.2; 5) With rotating movements from left to right, center the collar on the fungus; 6) Leave the collar on the piston until it cools down completely.

This method is quick to learn and the second and subsequent cuffs can be put on in about 15 seconds without any straining.

After it has cooled, the collar and piston can be placed in the compressor.

HOW TO INSTALL THE PISTON AND CUFF INTO THE COMPRESSOR

In order for the new oil seal to run more freely and not get stuck when installed in the compressor. it is necessary to grease a little its lateral edges. This is the only moment when I use engine oil (no difference synthetic, semi-synthetic or mineral) instead of SchRUS-4. Maybe this is a bit of shamanism, but even in the instruction manual for the Murka it is recommended to lubricate the sides of the oil seal with engine oil when installing a new oil seal. Instead of oil, you may as well continue to use CROWN-4.

I take a cotton swab, moisten it with oil and put a thin film of oil on the side edges of the cuff. The piston itself, especially its part that is in contact with the compressor, I lubricate with CROWN-4. The piston itself can be already greased densely, but within reason, so that the grease is not hanging flakes, at least, but was distributed over the working surface. Further, accurately, I introduce the piston with collar into the compressor and slowly (movement of the piston with collar must be slow and accurate) rotating and rocking up/down movements, in some places press the edges of collar with screwdriver with blunt flat tip, helping to pass the collar without catching the sharp slots of compressor and other critical sections, bring the piston with collar to the working area. As soon as the collar reaches the bottom of the compressor, with the patch N1, I lubricate the CROWN-4 of the piston space. The recommendations are the same as for the piston lubrication. the grease should be evenly distributed on the lubricated surface, but should not hang flaky. Everything.

In this way, I put even the tightest new oil seals and compressors with the most untreated grooves, without harming the seals. And due to the fact that all the excess grease is almost completely collected and removed from the working area of the compressor, the diesel comes out in less than one or two dozen shots.

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Also, I can probably add that I lubricate the piston itself with grease. Т.е. I put it in the compressor, and while it’s still almost all out, I grease a thin layer of shrouse on it as well. It can’t hurt him. Just, I know cases when people on the contrary, wash the piston in acetone and wipe it dry, and then, it tears the compressor walls, and in general, can get a rusty patina.

There is also my thread about gas springs, their installation and other useful tips: http://forum.guns.ru/forummessage/24/824145.html

П.С. no, it doesn’t burn. Not in the flame, but over the flame where it’s not as hot

If “put on” will reduce the number of ruined cuffs and scuffed fingers. it’s like this. P.S. You are missing quotation marks “” on your keyboard?

For some, “not hot” will start where the collar starts to naturally melt. That’s why I chose a simple and safe way to maximize the safety of the cuff, without subjective premonitions.

Then, I, for example, do not smoke, and lighter in my house thing is quite rare. A kettle with boiling water, I believe, is available for just about everyone.

Thanks, your method of warming up with a lighter is listened to. No further description of its merits is necessary.

What to make the collar for the compressor

Tubes for piston-spring air rifles, digest: information, prices, where to buy

For owners of IZH rifles, choosing the right cuff for subsequent use, especially in conjunction with the gas spring (GS), will determine at least half of the results.

1.1. The original standard MP/IJS cuff: http://www.baikalinc.ru/ru/company/open/weapon.html

1.2. “Cooperative” cuffMR/IJ

1.3. Poured standard MR/IJ cuffs

1.4. The one hundredth “cooperative” MP/IJ seals

1,8. 1.9 mmGroove width. 1 mmHeight of the cuff. 6.5mmWall thickness 2.0mm (6.5-4.5mm from the bottom/bottom plane to the bottom of the cup notch) measured on a worn type “4” stamped collar. 4″ inside, in the mushroom cavity. Measured with a small 0-125 mm metal caliper to within 0.1 mm.

There are two definite advantages to this method of rework. the cuff has a smaller thickness and a smaller dead volume. There are some shortcomings. Due to the large number of manual operations (cutting, turning, measuring, sharpening, etc.), it is not suitable for in-line production.д.The production of precision machined seals is not technologically advanced, which is not suitable for mass production, but it is acceptable for one-off assemblies.If you overdo it and remove too much material, because of the thinness of the remaining material in some rifles, the by-pass may pierce the collar through. This problem exists and can vary from rifle to rifle, but as a rule, the more powerful the spring. the deeper the by-pass leaves a mark on the cuff. This is especially true for the GP. So if you’re going to turn it. don’t overdo it. Another consequence of too much material being removed could be blowback. The cuff initially has a trapezoidal cross-section, with grinding it is removed wide base and if too much is removed. In some compressors, the collar diameter may be too small. The collar will need to be replaced.The dead volume of a worn lip seal is greater than that of a primed or overcompressed lip seal and it’s hard to do anything about it. For when stripping excessive material to reduce groove depth, you may overdo it and experience the problems described above.The nature of the emery. roughness, so the cuff after treatment will look accordingly. Some people don’t care, some people don’t. it is not critical for the performance of the rifle.The “cooperative” collars are the best for grinding. They have an inherently high working width and are also. they are stiff. The larger cuff width allows for greater reaming and the stiffness of the material allows for more comfortable grinding on the emery tip.Bottom line: This method. for the frugal enthusiast, with time and patience. You can use the waste heat seals on the GPs, but remember to keep in mind the potential problems with too much waste material. The performance curves of the rifle with the recompressed cuff are much better than the performance curves of the original cuff, but not as good as the performance curves of the primed and overcompressed cuffs. For rifles with unbalanced characteristics (weak spring, unadjusted by-pass, etc.) the siphon is usually not inflated or pinched at the gas block.п.) the waste cuff most likely will not give any performance degradation compared to the original cuff.Declared Service Life: Not Known.Price: the cost of the cuff.

1.5. Petrucha Cuff (12-7-2004)Link: http://forum.guns.forummessage/24/1499.html http://airgun.org.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5388

1.6. Cuff from Iron Mann (1-9-2009)Link:

2.2. Cuff from Vado123 (2-11-2009)I am truly pleased to announce in this section the cuffs from the famous manufacturer of GPs Vado123. Cuffs are now being tested and will be available soon. Stay tuned.

On the mp512, the quality primed, well-flown native cuffs are performing well. Many people have experimented with it

Vadim, if you mean the “thread-like” groove like on Petrukhin’s cuff, I will try to give some thoughts on it. I think this groove, as well as the concave lens-shaped surface shape, was obtained in the course of trying to squeeze in overmolding (and this is the key point!) material from the center of the cuff to the edges and displace the air bubbles. The lens shape was the best fit for this, and the groove turned out this way simply because it turned out. That’s my guess. A groove of the same depth as on the IZH23 gaiter is extremely difficult to melt completely and monolithically. The thread groove has no effect on the obturation, you can either use it or not. Т.к. you are not tied to overmolding and your cuffs are solid, a threadlike groove would be superfluous on them. Again, this is just me thinking. The shape of the lens on the cuffs of rifles other than Gum and Murcoja is very interesting. See and compare how the lenticularly shaped cuffs behave and compare their behaviour to the “classic” flat cuff surface, but with the obturator groove reduced to a reasonable limit. All the more, your material is soft (to match the mushroom) and you don’t need to make a deep groove in the original cuff to make it loose. you could even make a groove one millimeter by one millimeter.

You’re thinking wrong. I have already explained why and why.Order a batch of cuffs with a flat front surface, I will make it, and there will be no bubbles.As for the groove, I specifically lubricate it before shaping, so it doesn’t stick together. This is done to make the collar caking under load with less pressure.If you don’t grease and give it a higher temperature. It sticks together. Speeds on fresh cuffs with and without groove. do not differ, although the wall pressure at a certain stage of compression is different for these sleeves.Maybe even at high rates of use, the performance of the grooved and ungrooved seals would not be any different. But I make a groove just in case. To avoid, so to speak. For it almost does not affect the labor intensity.

And Ok. This is an order for a flat sleeve? How much?

Your right, if you start making one-piece cuffs, insert the blade in the molds or cut the cuffs by hand, with a corresponding increase in the price of handmade. In any case, for the one-piece cuffs. Additional actions, reduction in processability, increasing cost of production. With questionable benefits to the end user. I don’t usually pick on you, but here I’m picking on you hard. how did you measure the obturation and did you get the results different from statistical error on the cuff with and without “a groove of zero dead volume”?? Pictures, calculations. on the studio.

To be very precise, for your oil seals, it is just the number of donuts. the amount of grease in the groove and the action of lubricating it. The difference is that it is already there for your-our semi-finished rifles and it does not need to be made. And I think it is useless to cut it specially on one-piece cuff, even with maximum automation of the process, in the form of a blade in the mold.

You can calculate the RPM on your seals and mine if you wish. You count the volume of your concave recess, I count the volume of my groove. I haven’t had a chance to compare my cuff and your cuff on the same rifle. But the statistics on my cuffs from the participants say that they are quite at the level of flooded.

And a little more information. In the current situation, in fact, I’m not really competing with you on the cuffs. Because of the low in my opinion the manufacturability of their production process, I am not ready to make them on a scale for general retail price of 80, and a higher price I will not put them on principle. So I make them mostly only at the personal request of craftsmen who use them to upgrade. Let’s see if Vado123 will make his cuffs on the MR-512 too and how much they will cost. Either way, if I don’t scrap my cuff project, my cuffs for the MR-512 won’t cost more than 80.

Auto enthusiasts, resurrection of the compressor)

Hello auto enthusiasts, picabushniki, if you have a dead car compressor, do not rush to throw it away, I will now tell you how to reanimate it in 5 minutes.

Bought myself a month ago a compressor and it died after 10 times of use, the motor works, but the wheel is not pumped. I decided to disassemble it to see why.

make, collar, compressor

after opening it was clear that it is dry in general! т.е. no one lubricated it at the factory. Took this cylinder apart completely

here is this skirt on the Porsche need very carefully with a screwdriver or knife bend a little around the circumference (expand it)

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I washed it with carburetor cleaner and wiped it with a rag

DIY StompBox-2.17 Ibanez compressor (перезалив)

Lubricated generously cylinder, piston. the gears and put them back together

check it by turning it on and closing the nipple with your finger to create pressure.

voila)))) pumping even as))) if two hands clamped then it will be in the red zone (one finger is not enough power to hold the air))

I hope someone useful information and will save a few thousand))))

No duplicates found

I wrote that you need to expand the skirt carefully with a screwdriver to reduce the gap, it will work for a long time 100%

It would be nice to put a filter on the inlet. and do not drive the arrow in the red zone, the valves can be spoiled)

I’ll redo them, put some lithol on them

wd40? and the screwdriver hole with duct tape. blue=)

She was not lubricated, too, I think now will not come to the overheat

Needed a compressor for a home repair shop. 15mm and I put this gear on it.)

In the meantime, bought 5 years ago for a kosar domestic compressor works and in a fly pumps my r18.

Homemade compressor (60 photos and a detailed description of manufacturing)

Made a home-made air compressor: detailed photo report on the manufacture of the compressor on the basis of the head ZIL-130.

Needed a compressor for a home repair shop., somewhere, something to blow out, inflate the tires or paint some small thing.

Originally, I wanted to buy ready-made (Chinese) solution in the budget to 10 thousand. But after searching for information on compressors, I realized that it’s all sad. Need 15 or so money to buy this miracle technique and then do not regret spending money.

As a result, ripe to repeat the exploit of many and connect with the legend of the Soviet automobile industry called ZIL 130 In addition, in the technical college I studied automotive mechanics on trucks, just this car ZIL-130 and tractor MTZ-82 studied in full, to the bolt all three years, the entire term of study!

What can I say in favor of this compressor head good Its main advantage.it’s indestructible! There are spare parts for almost everything and are not expensive. You can always find the part numbers and order. The lubrication system is pressurized by the engine oil line and the cooling system is the same. The compressor head runs continuously once the engine is running. After reaching 7.5atm, in the brake system, the head goes into idle mode and starts pumping air from one cylinder to the other. The operating temperature is about 90-100C. That’s the temperature our engineers designed it for. So After reading a bunch of forums and watching all the videos on youtube, I realized that there are different opinions on these compressors. Personally, I wanted to keep it as simple as possible. Therefore it was decided to make a scoop greasing system, like at all favorite legends CO-7b and cooling system with natural circulation in the form of an expansion tank and all! To begin with, a long search for a used cylinder head on eBay and Yuletideeventually found one for 1500 rubles. The seller said that it, too, once worked as a garage compressor, but not for long Its condition was just awful. But there was no other options, we had to buy it. In the end I scraped the cords with a brush on an angle grinder and it got better.

There was a lot of blackness inside. It turned out that the head was overheated and the oil was stuck to the walls.

I had to soak the whole thing for 24 hours in solvent and gasoline. The rings on the pistons were all worn out. I had to pry it off with a screwdriver and hammer it outand the rings were breaking off in small pieces. No solvents could soak it up. After the head and the plane of the cylinder grinded.

Oddly enough, the cylinders were not scuffed. Even see the honing (no pictures). The pistons are at TDC with almost no play. The pistons themselves are also in pretty good condition. Crankshaft journals without scuffs, but the bearings were already backlash. So I bought new bearings, bearings, a set of gaskets, a set of rings, studs and a set of intake and exhaust valves.disgusting quality. The lubrication system decided to do, as I wrote above.scoops. For this you need to drill the block itself under the breather, then two holes in the connecting rod and a third in the crosshead under the scoop itself.

To make these scoops work, you need to weld a pallet for the oil. As it turned out I did not take a picture. It’s easy. Four angles on the rib and a plate welded to the bottom. At the same time goes a fitting under the platform.

Motor will be installed 3kVt 2900 rpm three-phase into a single-phase grid. The plate decided to make a single, for the motor and the head. Also, it will be removable from the receiver.

The tank is like all propane 50l with wheels.

Next, a drainage bolt was welded to the bottom of the cylinder to drain the condensate and two nipples of half-inch pipe for the pressure gauge and pressostat. Wheels changed a bit for the other with wide tread)))) The third leg is also with a rubber gasket. All this rubber stuff helps with the vibration. And for the paint

I made hard connection to compressor head from half inch pipe. Check valve was a plumber’s valve with a brass core.

The condition of the el.The engine wasn’t very good either. And besides, it’s been rebuilt. These craftsmen decided that three wires will be enough and connected the whole thing under the scheme of the star. So I had to open the whole thing, look for the missing wires, again packed everything back. To clean it of dirt, paint, varnish and only then to paint.

I decided to paint the compressor head orangethat’s the color of joy for me. At least something to paint this product.

Oil pan with a drain hole is screwed on the bottom. Also made a blanking bolt with a neodymium magnet to trap metal impurities. Because after the first start and a short cranking, after taking apart the sump, I saw a lot of metal shavings.

Coolant tank is made from a cut pipe 150mm in diameter. Connection to the rigid with American-style.

The tank for crankcase gases from the classica, like all do-it-yourselfers. I made the air filter myself. For which are sold for 300 rubles with foam rubber inside, I Chey what scared away. For this you need the filter element itself from Izh, Moskvich2141 and polypropylene fittings and pipes.

On the pipe threaded for this plug.

Now for the speed I decided to do a compressor with 2000 rpm on the crankshaft head. For this long time was looking for a suitable pulley on the electric motor. On the head itself is the standard pulley with the size of 218mm outer diameter. According to the calculations of online calculator, I needed a driving pulley with the size of 150mm. So I bought a pulley from VAZ 2101-07, which is on the crankshaft to drive the fan or pump.х.Well, it doesn’t matter. Its dimensions, just 150mm and the inner 29mm. Since I have the shaft of the motor seating size 24mm, then had to myself milling bushing with an angle grinder and file. Before that, I searched for turners in my villagebut they are very hard to find!

At this speed cylinder 50L pumps up to 8atm in 1min 40sec.

Oil reservoir with pipes from the breather and crankshaft. If it is necessary to redo it for forced lubrication in the future, there are no problems at all. Connect the line in its usual place and go.

The return from the oil line is led out through the drain hole.

The belt tensioning mechanism is simple as hell. Put any belt on the pulleys, pull off the engine, then let the bar from the angle. Tighten it to the frame and then use the tensioning bolts to tighten the belt. After that, the motor platform is already fastened.

Check valveIgnore the two gauges. Later an automatic will be bought and installed in place of one of the gauges.

Cut the thermometer into the coolant reservoir.

Wheels and stop made of thick rubber.a la antivibration!

If you need something to paint with a long time and a heavy load, you can connect to this tee hose from the water supply and forced to cool the head. I think I do not need to explain, on my fingers the tank is split on American cars.

Well, and bought oil like this. Smells like regular spindle.

Now, a little on the wiring diagram and try to calculate the approximate cost of compressor parts. So, we have a motor 3kW, 2900 RPM and consumption of 11.8 amps in a network of 220 when connected delta.

This engine was in repair and the craftsman took out only three wires to connect to 380v. So I had to rewire the whole thing and put out more wires. YouTube is full of clips on how to do it. Then you need to select the working and starting capacitors. Here’s where there’s a little hitch. There are different online calculators and they show completely different values some have 200μf working and 400μf starting, others have 400 and as much as 800 starting. That’s why you don’t know what to buy. I decided to do this way, buy the minimum at first and if there is a lack of capacity. for capacitors with high capacitance are really expensive. To connect to need starting and working condensers, timing relays, magnetic starters.

The working ones are 120µF and 100µF. The starting one is 500µF.

And two magnetic startersone relieves the motor power, the second starter time relay.

I’ll put it in a box. Contactors with relays on self-tapping screws, capacitors on cable ties.

My compressor has no automatics (pressostat), so I connected it this way. Let me explain in words the power cable from the outlet goes to the button station. At this time the lamp lights up, like there is voltage (mains). After starting the pushbutton station, voltage goes to the contactors and coil ABB magnetic starter and time relay TDM. From the ABB magnetic starter, current flows to the motor with the working capacitors and, in parallel, current flows through the TDM time relay to the coil of the second (black) magnetic starter. The second MF already connects the starting capacitor (blue) and the motor starts. After a certain time (in my case 2s) goes the time relay and turns off the second (black) magnetic starter. Who understands electricity, it’s very simple, but most people and I’m not very easy to figure out! If you want to set a different time, then open the lid of the box and turn the knob on the time relay.

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Now for the capacitors. The first start of the engine without load at idle showed that too many capacitors. The motor heats up in a couple of minutes. Therefore, one 100 uF capacitor dropped immediately. Then assembled the compressor and installed a small pulley (70mm) on the motor. Compressor head motor ran smoothly, no hum or heat. Started the compressor at 8atm safely. After installing the pulley with a diameter of 150mm, the engine could not even start with 0atm in the tank. As a result, I put the second one on 100mcf, and everything worked like it should. Startup condenser run time increased of course. If the network 220v and a warmed compressor, with 8 atm in the tank is easy to start. If there is a line sag up to 200v, it already cannot start at 8 atm. Cranked the pulleys and not enough acceleration for those 2 seconds, but closer to 5 atm in the cylinder starts. You can of course increase the time on the relay it’s not enough to start but I’m not going to do it yet. And this is all without the unloading valve and prepressure valve on the intake! Photos of the finished product

Now about the cost price.

If someone has the intention to build a compressor based on the ZIL, Kamaz and other heads, should first calculate approximately its cost. On YouTube videos all easy and cheap Zeal, tank and ready)))) In fact, everything is not so.

  • 1. The cylinder on the classics of the genre.propane 500 rubles on eBay. (I had in a stash)
  • 2. The wheels. about 300 rubles (brought friends)
  • 3. Angle 50 2m, 1/2 2m pipe on the handle about 200r
  • 4. Compressor zil 130. 1500r the lowest market on avito and have to go for her gasoline 500r
  • 5. Repair kit for this head (rings, bearings, gaskets, liners, valves) 1000r
  • 6.The motor is 2500r Avito (I got it for free) again I have to go somewhere for it.
  • 7. Electricsif you have 380v, this is the easiest and cheapest option. Need a 380 pressostat and a magnetic starter. In my case, to connect to 220v need 3 condensers for 1500r, time relay 500r, magnetic starters 1000r, pressosta on ali.1000р

The rest of the stuff will not even count. The valve, fittings, American pipe. I had it all. it all has to do with my work))) If you buy it all, you can go another 1000-1500r. As a result of itself will leave. For me it cost about 7 trillion dollars and need to order a pressostat. Well, this work is not a burden to me, but a pleasure! Conclusion is more likely to be so If the material on the compressor at all nada and have nothing, then it is better not to bother, and immediately save up some more money and buy a normal belt compressor! Guys, that’s itall in one piece! Good Luck and Bye! Author: Reanimator33. г. Orekhovo-Zuevo.

What is the collar in pneumatics

In the mechanism of the piston air gun design can be distinguished three most important parts, the correct operation of which will ensure a long life of your air gun:

piston seal (photo 3 bagel, photo 4 mushroom)

The barrel gland if your rifle has a link-type cocking system, or a bypass gland if your rifle has an underbarrel cocking lever

These are three of the most important parts for the quality and accuracy of every piston air gun.

In the case of failure at least one of these three key elements about the further operation of your pneumatics can be forgotten until the replacement of the failed part.

And now, we slowly (maybe, maybe not) came to the essence of what is the collar in pneumatics.

The piston collar is one of the key sealing elements in an air piston design. The gasket is worn, as the name implies, on the piston. Failure of this seal will result in the cessation of further operation of the pneumatics.

It is necessary to check the condition of the cuff in a timely manner in order to minimize negative effects, if any, and to obtain the most pleasant experience and increased comfort when shooting.

In practice, it is usually replaced on average once every 2-3 years. However, this is an average number, and much depends on the number of shots fired, the amount, quality and type of oil used to lubricate the piston and cuff. And also from the material of which the piston seal is made.

Let me immediately clarify the oil: It is recommended to use any synthetic (automotive, for example) oil, because such oils have a minimal diesel effect.

The diesel effect is the effect of grease ignition (or grease residue), characterized by increased firing power and the presence of smoke when firing. It is an extremely negative impact on the whole structure, respectively on the collar. The inner parts of the gun are subjected to the strongest destruction processes from excessive loads that are not designed for this type of construction. The collar burns out and rapidly fails. Negative effects when shooting with the diesel effect can be observed after 10-15 shots, but I do not think that such deformation processes are necessary for your air rifle. Therefore, it is necessary to clean the gun regularly.

Material for the collar

At the moment the most popular, and no less successful, material from which cuffs are made is polyurethane. Polyurethane piston seals are used on most air rifles. However, in some rifles there is an alternative which material is leather. Leather seals are used on some rifles (IZH 22, IZH 38, MP-512) and pistols (IZH 53) manufactured in Russia by Baikal, aka Izhevsky Mechanical Plant (IZH Mekh).

And if after viewing the photo, you may think that the quality and durability of such a cuff is negligible, after you take it in your hands, this impression will intensify 2 times.

However, these sleeves also have a place to live. They are quite efficient in low-powered rifles, like the MR-512. The leather ones are said to be eternal. They really do serve their owner well. But it should be understood that already in magnum and supermagnum type rifles they cannot be used at all. Actually, no one uses them on high-powered pneumatics.

But, polyurethane is quite another matter. This is a universal material, which is now widely used for making seals. It’s, you could say, a loaf for the people who make these types of seals.

Photo 7 shows the open type cuff (bagel) manufactured by RTI.Komplekt and photo 8 shows closed type cuff (mushroom) made by Vado123.

The difference between the open and closed type is not critical, of course, if you use the same material and workmanship.

A bagel is much better against caking, but has a bigger dead volume, and in turn the fungus has a smaller dead volume, but is a little more afraid of the diesel effect. Also, some owners of closed-type collars note that the piston striking the bottom of the compressor is quieter, better, and some other people dispute this in turn.

Both photo 7 and photo 8 are polyurethane cuffs.

If you hold a few of these different polyurethane seals in your hand, you will notice that one is more elastic and the other is more oaky. With the elastic seals it is probably easier, you won’t have to perform various manipulations with dipping them into boiling water and so on, in order to put them on the piston. But also oak cuffs have significant advantages they are more stable in terms of performance, much less dependent on shot and temperature.

Let’s go to the manufacturers of RTI.Komplekt and Vado123.

RTI.Komplekt has been manufacturing polyurethane products, including seals and glands, for over ten years. Proven as a good substitute for factory seals. They use high-quality polyurethane, due to which their seals have the same properties and characteristics as the factory seals.

Vado123 make seals from the highest quality German polyurethane with high strength and abrasion resistance. Proven as an excellent substitute for these seals, and is one of the best manufacturers of seals and oil seals in the market of Ukraine. Their seals are superior to factory seals with some customization.

  • Their working surface has the smallest possible dead volume.
  • Correctly selected lip thickness and seal groove dimensions.
  • The side edge is set back, which prevents caking and deformation of the seals on the bottom of the compressor.
  • The oil seals have the lowest possible profile, which improves the piston stroke.

It was a small review of the seals in the pneumatics, after reading which, perhaps, you will have fewer questions regarding the choice of seals in your pneumatic weapon.

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