Reconditioning the hammer. Mahogany handle.
In general. this project, has been a project of endless jambs, fixing jambs and generating new ones in the process of fixing.
On my last run through a flea market, namely Udelka along with goodic. I bought a little something there.
I got the hammer off a man’s hands. He wanted a hundred, but gave it to me for fifty. My grandfather on my father’s side had such a mallet, and when I was a kid I wanted it very much. But my grandfather didn’t give it to me, and when he was gone, my father threw everything away (yes, I didn’t have time). The man said that on Vasilievsky Island there is a place where during the war the ruins were taken, and he digs there, finds things and sells them. So a hammer, with some history. For the handle, I bought a wood chisel, and I begged the goodic for a mahogany parquet. The story of how I put the hammers in order, is worthy of a separate post, and at the request of workers I will write about it. But it was pretty bad, too.
As usual, a font in trillon solutions, light sanding. Then I spent another month fine-tuning the wreck, and finally I was ready to make a handle. We split the board lengthwise, making it with a special saw for longitudinal sawing.
Shoal first: for the handle, always cut the workpiece with a reserve, you can still trim it more than once! With a good margin, at least 1.5 of the final length!
After that, I first took the wood sledgehammer in his hands, and missed all the dimensions, so nervous that I threw everything you can.
Folks from the machine-chat advised to collect the chips and fill with epoxy, getting a mahogany again. And the slippers shred and get black :D.But jokes aside, I missed the size (it was not yet sanding).
Saddened, but the next day pulled myself together and made a wedge. At first I tried to make the notch for the wedge with the wood jigsaw, but I hurt myself and broke the saw (you know, mahogany is very fucking hard). Another joint. I ended up using a fine metal saw.
I made the wedges from a ruler, but it turned out to be too soft. I had to finish it out of the remains of the oak parquet. In the process of wedging, the handle went a crack. Count the jambs. One more joint.
Then sanding, but by virtue of the fact that I dug deep enough and crooked enough pliers, I dug holes there, and they can not be fixed without redoing the handle. One more thing. Apart from the overall aesthetics, has little effect.
I decided to fix the cracks and sagging, except for the wedges, with epoxy resin. But I couldn’t find a 20-minute resin at the nearest store for a decent price, so I had to get a four-minute resin. I poured the top part without any trouble.
And here, after the beater I wanted to wrap a thread on top of the resin and then spread more resin on top, but something went wrong, the resin hardened too quickly, the thread broke off, and on top of it was already smeared almost in flakes. But all in all, the important thing is that I closed the cracks and threaded.
After that, a teak oil finish. Oooh, teak oil. It’s a delight.
Despite the fact that the handle shows traces of rough sanding, sinks and pits, also carelessly made girdle, the hammer looks really cool and kosher. And it’s enough for my grandkids for sure.
The mahogany is a delight to me, it’s not the first time I’ve encountered it, but it’s too beautiful. The disadvantages are that even sawing with it without a respirator is impossible, it hurts my throat and coughs. Only in a muzzle. Very hard, but it’s fun to work with.
Why didn’t I redo everything?? Very simple: every step has taught me something, in fact, such a hammer can be bought ready-made, but the experience that I gained. can not buy.
I express my gratitude to goodic for the workpiece, zhalmenov for his help in getting the wrecker in order.
Make A Hammer Handle From Scratch, Part I
How to use a hammer
How to muzzle a hammer?– Not everyone is able to do it properly nowadays. I confess that I used to use whatever hammers I had. I didn’t have time to do everything properly, and I didn’t need a hammer that often. But now, in retirement, I have a lot of free time, I do some things all the time, that’s why I try to keep my tools in order. There are hammers on the market that have a handle made of metal or some synthetic material, and it is not necessary to put it on. But traditional hammers with wooden handles are still very popular. It’s not just because they are much cheaper. Wood. the material is light, and for a hammer, it is very important that the handle is light, but the head of the tool is heavy. Then the power of the blow is much greater. Besides, every person has his or her own anthropometric peculiarities. Industrial hammers are designed for the average person and may be too big for a small person and too big for a giant. they may be too big for a small person and too small for a giant. Using a home-made wooden handle you can adjust the hammer to your hand: the thickness of the handle will be such that it is convenient to hold, and its length corresponds to the length of the master hand. A real craftsman’s tool is always in order. This rule is especially important when you work with this tool frequently. You can hammer a couple of nails a year with a bad hammer that has a crumbled and loose handle. But surely if a hammer is one of your most essential tools, it must be in perfect condition. With this uncomplicated tool, you can not only damage your finger if you miss the nail head or chisel buttstock, but also cause serious injury to yourself and others if the hammering part suddenly comes off the handle. And it’s not uncommon for a hammer to be put on the handle the wrong way. I have looked through quite a few hammer pictures on the Internet, and I have not found any showing that the hammer is placed properly.
(The picture shows what happens if the hammer is not placed correctly.).
So here we are going to tell you how to put the hammer on the handle correctly. First of all, you should keep in mind that not every wood is suitable for the handle of the hammer. What kind of wood is needed for a hammer handle?. Tree species with easily prickly wood such as spruce, pine, aspen, alder, and the like should be definitely excluded from the list of those suitable for the handle of a hammer. But an ordinary birch tree not straight but twisted will do for this purpose. (By the way, according to GOST 231077 “Locksmith hammers steel. It is allowed to make hammers handles from hornbeam, maple, mountain ash, dogwood, ash, oak, beech and birch of the 1st grade). Therefore it is possible to take not so thick birch branch (twice or three times thicker than the handle itself) and from it to cut blanks for the handle of the hammer. If the branch is taken from a live tree, the piece should be dried well. It is better to dry in a natural way by putting several pieces at once somewhere in the shade, but in a well-ventilated place. In the countryside, it can be an ordinary pile of firewood, together with which the blanks for the handles will dry perfectly for about a month (in summer). In the city one can put the blanks for the handles on the balcony. Do not dry the wood with any heating devices (for example, on a radiator), otherwise it may crack. A great handle for a hammer can be made from a broken wooden hockey stick that uses very strong and hard wood. Why is it important that the wood, from which you plan to make the handle of the hammer, should be dry?? – Everything is very simple: in the process of drying any wood decreases in size (water evaporates and quite naturally, the volume of the body decreases). So a hammer handle that has not dried out well enough will inevitably dry out over time and no matter what kind of wedges you hammer into it, the head of the hammer will dangle on the handle and may eventually come off of it. What shape should the handle of a hammer be??. The already mentioned GOST provides for three different designs of the handle of a hammer (see the drawing).Figure), but it is also stipulated that other ergonomically convenient handle shapes are allowed. So, if you decided to make a handle yourself, you can take these options as a basis, or make your own design. The main thing is to make sure the grip is comfortable and does not slip out of your hand when you hit it with the hammer.
When making the handle you need to keep in mind that the blanks for it should be longer than necessary, at least 5 centimeters. The handle should taper smoothly toward the end where the hammer head sits. How to put the hammer head on the handle correctly?. The hammer head hole on both “inlets” is slightly larger than in the middle. So, the size of the handle blanks at the thinnest end should correspond to the size of the hole in the middle of the hammer head. Be sure to check how well the handle hole is made in the hammer head itself. Consider
You can find drawings of the reverse hammer for body repair on numerous websites. But before designing it is important to define the purpose for which the tool will be used. Reverse hammer for straightening is possible to make in half an hour with their own hands, but the scheme must be chosen in advance. It is easiest to assemble a model with an adhesive backing or with interchangeable threaded hooks.
The first step is to determine the size of the hammer. Usually a length of 50 cm is sufficient to ensure long work and convenience, but a reduction in this number is possible depending on individual needs or the availability of the necessary materials.
The second step is to make a clear drawing on which every detail is carefully traced. Thanks to this, the number of constituent parts and their degree of readiness for assembly becomes clear. Most often it is at this point that you can think ahead and make hooks for pulling in different sizes. Since the reverse hammer can be made with one or more weights, this variety of attachments will allow you to work with dents of varying severity. For example, in the case of specific damages it is possible to weld several hinges on one straight line, followed by a pin to pull them one plane.
This method will not be suitable for every dent, but it allows you to reduce the resulting deformation forces in the metal, which allows you to do the work faster and with minimal damage.
Sharpening and hardening the axe
Like any other tool, an axe needs periodic care and maintenance. Over time, in everyday tasks, the blade becomes dull and productivity declines. In this case it must be sharpened.
To perform this procedure qualitatively, it is necessary to know how to properly sharpen the axe. The general principle is almost no different from sharpening ordinary knives with a sharpening machine, but you must follow the rule of forming a burr.
To avoid too frequent sharpening, the steel must be as strong as possible, and to do this, it must be hardened. At home, the procedure is performed using a gas burner and waste motor oil. The blade is red-hot and immersed in waste, then cooled completely in water. Repeat the procedure several times.
Bear in mind that, in addition to being an adhesive layer, rubber also takes some of the load of impacts, thereby reducing the load on the handle. This will allow the latter to last longer. The most common situation is when the holes on the outer sides of the hammer head are much larger than the same area in the middle. To keep this from becoming a complicating factor, you can use a file and sandpaper to make the transition smoother or make the head widths the same on the edges and in the middle. The average difference is 6 to 8 mm.
It is worth noting that the same machining method can be used to reduce the size of the wooden handle. If the difference is small, you can only use sandpaper. It is important to observe that the handle goes into the hammer at a right angle. Otherwise, after the tool can not only be badly used in the work, but also quickly fall into disrepair.
Dimensions and weight of mallets
Tool is widely used, what causes variation of parameters depending on work tasks. Heavy models weigh over 900 g. standard. 450-900 g. lightweight. 225-450 g.
It is difficult to determine weight by its appearance. Some miniature models are actually heavier than the larger mallets. Some products have a lead inserted in the striker, for more effective striking.
Depends on the length of the handle and the impact force. The longer it is, the harder the tool hits. Standard parameters of a paddle: weight 300 g, length 30 cm.
What are the handles for files??
Handle for the file is an important component that affects the usability of the tool, its functionality. Wooden and plastic models for the file are considered traditional, but there are also rubberized versions, as well as those made of other materials. On how you can make and put on your own hands a handle for a file from a pipe, an old screwdriver, it will be useful to know for every beginner craftsman.
How the tool is made?
The mallet consists of the striking part (striker) and the handle (handle). The hammer comes in a variety of shapes and is made of different materials, depending on the application. The handle is fastened in a cone-shaped hole in the head so that the striking part does not fall out during the operation. Most often the handle of a mallet is made from the following elements:
- Hardwoods such as rowan, birch, ash, maple, elm;
- The strikers are made of hard, tough wood, such as elm and hornbeam;
- strong rubber or fluoroplastic (a highly resistant polymer).
How to choose a hammer
It seems that choosing a mallet is not such a problem. In fact, there are a lot of nuances that you should pay attention to during the purchase process. Choosing a tool to perform a certain type of work, it is necessary to evaluate the following factors:
- Depending on the functionality, each option has a different kind of impact part. So it has to be precisely defined what kind of work you want to do with the tool.
- The handle should be carefully inspected for chips and more severe damage. A quality tool will have a perfectly flat and tight handle, no matter what material it is made of.
- Much depends on the construction. For example, a steel hammer is made entirely of steel. Therefore, the handle must have appropriate extensions at the head and at the end of the handle. There should be a special coating to ensure a good grip. If the design does not meet these conditions, the tool will produce a tremendous kickback or vibration upon impact.
- A heavy tool should have a handle that is as thick and as long as possible. The normal length is 38 to 45 cm. When the length of the handle is shorter, there is a risk of serious injury due to the fracture of the handle base while working.
- Следующим фактором станет вес инструмента. For domestic use, a hammer weighing 350-450 g is sufficient. If you need to perform more serious construction or repair work (removal of walls, roof repairs), then the weight of the device should be 0.6. 0.8 kg.
- The requirements for the head in terms of attachment are the most important. The metal part must sit tightly on the handle, not shifted, not deformed, not dangling. You can check this aspect directly in the process of purchase by carrying out a few swings.
The choice is not so difficult if you know and take into account all the nuances in the purchase. It is necessary to pay attention to the structure and fastening of the tool, its capabilities and functionality.