Drill bit on the concrete drill design selection and tips for use
If it is necessary to drill a hole in the wall, it is better to use a peorator, the chuck of which should be loaded with a drill. However, if you do not have a peorator, you do not need to buy this tool specifically for drilling in concrete. A drill can also help with this. Only to drill a hole in a concrete wall, you need a concrete drill bit for a drill. This is a special nozzle, which is installed in the collet chuck of the tool. They come in different types and designs, so before using them, you need to understand their structure and application.
Initially, you need to find out what the drill bit for concrete on the drill to make a hole in the wall. To realize the idea, you need a drill with percussion function. It is for the impact drill you need to pick up a special drill bit for drilling concrete. In normal drilling mode, the tool will not be able to cope with the task without a blow.
What an ordinary wood and metal drill looks like, everyone imagines. For drilling concrete, similarly designed nozzles are used, only with a slight difference. the presence of hardfacing on the tip, head or working part. These tips are designed to punch through the wall, and at the same time increase the life of the cutting tool.
Drill bits for concrete are coated with a pobedite surfacing that combines a tungsten-cobalt alloy. This carbide material is only applied to the head of the bit, which is directly involved in contact with concrete and other similar materials. Tungsten-Cobalt alloy makes the cutting tip tough, reliable, and resistant to cutting edge abrasion.
In addition to pobedite, manufacturers also produce tools for concrete drills with a tipped or, more precisely, diamond dust dusting. Such bits are even more reliable in tougher materials. They can even be used for drilling in reinforced concrete, since they have high cutting properties.
The distinguishing features of concrete drills are not only in the design of the head, but also in the shank. The shank is the part that retracts into the drill chuck and is clamped by the legs of the mechanism.
This is interesting! The head of the concrete drill bit consists of a cutting plate that has a protrusion 1-2 mm larger than the spiral itself. It is this cutting plate with a special sharpening at an angle of 75 degrees, is coated with a pobedite.
It is by the design of the head that you can distinguish the device on the concrete drill from other attachments for drilling metal and wood. Before choosing a pobedite drill bit, it is necessary to understand their types and design parameters.
The most popular and inexpensive version of the adapter for working with self-tapping wood screws is the magnetic holder. It is put directly on the Phillips bit or another bit that is clamped in the chuck of the electric screwdriver and ensures sufficiently reliable magnetic fixation of the fastener when screwing it into the wooden surface. At low speed with this thing, you can screw in a self-drilling screw without holding it with your other hand. Especially useful when working at height or in hard-to-reach places.
The tip helps to cut a piece of aluminum or galvanized steel in one or two minutes. It will be handy for the erection of drywall frameworks, cutting corrugated board for roofing work, installation of ventilation ducts, making gutters. It has an ergonomic rubberized handle, so the electric screwdriver is easy to use.
Drill bit installation into a geodrill
Please note that this chuck was originally designed for drill bits, not for drills. Standard drill bits have a cylindrical shank with a diameter that corresponds to the diameter of the drill. Drills have grooves and slots in the shank and are made by SDS system. Though drills for metal or wood with SDS shank are also produced.
Below are recommendations on how to insert the drill into the peorator:
- First of all, it is necessary to observe electrical safety precautions and disconnect the tool from the power supply.
- The next step is to choose the right auger for the job. First of all choose a drill with the SDS system that fits the chuck of the torch. Secondly, choose the right diameter for the auger to suit the size of the hole you want to drill.
- Remove dust and dirt from the chuck. Make sure there are no foreign objects or pieces of brick or plaster inside the auger.
- Hold the core bit by the drive unit and push it into the chuck until you hear it snap into place. Lubricate the auger periodically before use. This will extend the life of your tool.
- Check that the auger is seated tightly and that it has clamped. To do this, tilt the core drill down with the chuck and pull the auger. If it does not fall out of the chuck, it is securely fastened.
- Plug in the tool and carry out the planned work.
After completing work with the peorator, you also need to know how to remove the drill from the peorator. To do this, press the upper part of the chuck with your fingers and pull it toward the housing. The lock will loosen and the drill can be pulled out.
The operations described above apply to drills and drills with the SDS fastening system. If, however, a standard drill bit is to be inserted into the drill bit, a drill bit adapter is to be used. Such an adapter has a shank with the SDS fastening system, and its body is a collet chuck with a toothed system of operation.
Electric screwdriver button principle and construction
The battery voltage is supplied to the motor via the button. The button is not only used as a contact closure.
The following tasks are assigned to the button:
- Closing of the contacts of the plus and minus wires, which feeds power to the motor
- Reversing. reversing polarity contacts of the wires coming to the engine. This allows the motor shaft to rotate in different directions
- Adjusting the speed depending on how hard the trigger is pressed
The purpose of the push button is to provide smooth voltage to the tool motor when the trigger is pulled.
What to do if the faces of the screw fixing the chuck are slipping?
What to do if the edges of the screw head inside the chuck have slipped off? A very common problem, which is quite realistic to solve. First, let’s look at the reasons why the screw faces are slipping:
- Without reading the instructions, the owner is trying to unscrew the screw in a counterclockwise direction. If there is a screw inside, it should be turned clockwise to unscrew it, that is, the other way around
- Improperly selected tool, i.e. screwdriver used with slits that slip the screw edges. Pick up screwdriver correctly as much as possible before use
- Screws of poor quality. It is usually found on cheap Chinese devices
However, if the edges of the screw are slipped off, do not rush to change the tool. There are different ways to unscrew it:
- If the screw head is Phillips, but the facets are flattened, you can use a flathead screwdriver. The manufacturers have foreseen the probability of slipping edges, so you can unscrew the screw not only with a Phillips screwdriver, but also with a slotted screwdriver. This method usually solves the problem
- use a blowgun to try to clean the dirt inside the slots of the flat bar. Often a large amount of dirt accumulates in the flat bar and prevents a good connection to the screw
- Hold the screwdriver against the head of the screw and make light but firm strokes. The screwdriver will go deeper inside the screw head of the cartridge, making it more likely to unscrew it
- To cut off a piece of rubber, and having placed it over the flat, try to catch the remaining edges with a screwdriver, and make unscrewing
- If all methods are tried, it remains only either to disassemble the electric screwdriver or drill, followed by replacement of the actuator together with the shaft from the gear or an angle grinder to cut the chuck. Once the screw head is accessible, a hand vice can be used to grip it and unscrew it. Chuck to be replaced after this method
There is no need to change the entire tool at all.
Cone drill set for bores from 3 to 30 mm: better than stepped drills
Stepped drills have recently become popular, enabling large diameter holes to be made in one go. Their main advantage is their drilling diameters of up to 20. 30 mm, without replacing the drill bit and without pre-drilling (no drilling with a smaller diameter). Stepped drills with diameters up to 50 mm are also available (!). But there are some disadvantages with drills like these. they are hard to sharpen, you need to know how to work them properly. And today I will tell you about another model of similar tooling. these are stepless taper drill bits.
Characteristics: Lot: Drill Bit Set Type: Cone Drill Bits Purpose: drilling large holes in metal without preparation Material: HSS 4241 high-speed tool steel Size: 16-30 mm / 8-20 mm / 3-14 mm Shank: 10/8/6 mm
Cone drills are much more convenient than step drills, primarily due to smooth diameter transition. Hole edges are smooth, burrfree. In this review there will be a set with hole diameters from 3-30mm. By the way this type of jigs is not only suitable for wood, plastic and aluminum, but also for different kinds of steels.
Recently we talked about Dremel accessories, and today we are going to talk about a set of drills for metalworking. I won’t tell you about concrete application cases in details, I’ll just note that drilling several 1/2″ holes in the electric switchboard for inlet glands with drills like this is just a fairy tale. Depending on the required diameter, we select the drill bit. There are three pieces in the lot with diameters of 16-30mm, 8-20mm, 3-14mm. The quoted cutting steel is HSS 4241, which is roughly equivalent to our high carbon tool steel P2AM3.
The photograph shows a small cone drill with an initial diameter of 3 mm and an end diameter of 14 mm.
Notice the cutting edge. This is a sharp, straight edge that can be self-sharpened or burr removed if desired.
Drill shank is truncated, for cam chucks, 6 mm in diameter. Cone diameters marked on the shank: 3-14 mm.
The next largest drill bit is the medium one, 8-20mm.
The pronounced “drift”. the honed part for drilling into the material. is clearly visible at the tip of the cone.
The shank in this model is larger, 8 mm, also truncated for cams. Marking 8-20 mm.
The biggest drill bit in the set is the big cone of 16-30 mm
It is also very sharp, with wide cutting edges.
The shank is already bigger here, by 10 mm. Marking 16-30mm.
Shank lengths vary, depending on cone size.
Approximately 2.5 cm. This is enough to fit the drill chuck securely.
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Measurements of shank diameter: 6 mm for the small cone, 8 mm for the medium cone and 10 mm for the larger cone.
The measured maximum cone diameter is almost identical to the declared diameter. This means that you should not try to drill a 14 mm hole with the smallest drill bit.
It is better to take a bigger (medium) drill, which will give the desired result. Similar situation with medium and large taper. It is true that for specific applications these diameters are sufficient. these are 1/2″, 3/4″, or 1″ inlets. Enough to go around.
Here is a small stepped drill bit from the set for comparison. Yellow coating is titanium nitride, which should increase durability and strength of the drill. A selection of other tooling and tool kits.
Step drills were handy, until I discovered such cone ones. Cone drills give quality results, flat, not jagged edges of the hole.
If necessary, it is possible to sharpen the taper drill bits yourself. the cutting edge is accessible for machining. Lovers of step drills. try to sharpen them. Each step. Independently))))
Wood, aluminum and other plastics at once put aside. only hardcore, only the profile pipe 40x40x4 mm.
Profile pipe is a serious challenge for the tooling, especially if it is not a couple of holes, but immediately the array that finishes the drill immediately.
In the picture, the drill fits in with little or no pressure, simply by the weight of the tool.
The result is excellent. smooth holes without burrs, without jagged edges. There is one nuance. the hole for the thread will need to be turned, as the profile of the resulting hole is obtained under the cone. This is specific to this tooling. For other types of joints, you don’t have to turn it around.
Proper use of a screwdriver drill
A screwdriver is a tool that is designed to tighten and unscrew fasteners: screws, screws, self-tapping screws, dowels, etc.д. In order to work with screws, self-tapping screws and pins, the chuck of a screwdriver is fitted with bits and special bits with the necessary jaws. Also used for drilling holes. One of the useful options of a modern screwdriver is the impact drilling mode, in which you can make holes in concrete and ceramic. For this purpose, it is better to use a screwdriver.
The main difference between the screwdriver and the drill-driver is that the first tool is designed to perform serial work on tightening and unscrewing of fasteners. As a drill, it can be used, but it is not recommended. Drills for screwdrivers are not even listed in the standard tooling. This is due to the fact that the screwdriver design does not imply a drilling function. The screwdriver‘s hexagonal socket is only suitable for hexagonal drills.
The specifications also indicate that it is not a good idea to use it as a drill. The cordless screwdriver has a higher rotational speed. This is good when working with fasteners. And this is a disadvantage when drilling, because it is often impossible to limit or somehow control the speed of rotation. The bulky dimensions of this tool are also more of a disadvantage than a plus when working with it.
The screwdriver is practically a universal tool. There are many more functions that it can handle than a conventional screwdriver. This variant is already equipped with a variable speed control. A screwdriver is equipped with a quick-action chuck instead of a hex socket that makes it much easier to change accessories, be they bits or drills. The chuck is an important element in any screwdriver and can be selected for the required function.
Quick-change chucks (Q/C) make it possible to change screwdriver bits and bits without using additional tools. This is possible because of the chuck design. They are available as single sleeve chucks where the bit can be changed with one hand while a special mechanism locks the shaft for the duration of tooling, and double sleeve chucks where the bit can be changed with two hands: one hand holds the sleeve and the other unscrews/screws the bit.
Quick-change chucks are available in plastic and metal. When using plastic chucks, you can make your work easier, i.e. reduce the weight of the power tool itself. But plastic is inferior in strength and durability to metal, especially if you use an impact mode. But both are great for use in the home and for more professional types of work.
Drilling holes in wood correctly, what are the three point drills for and where in the feather ones. feathers?
Wood, in our area, is one of the most frequently encountered and popular materials which the domestic handyman deals with. It can be used to build a cottage, put up a fence, make furniture and much more. In this article I would like to tell about different types of drills for making holes in wood and share my own experience of their choice and usage, as well as give some tips which could be useful for the reader.
In general, in my purely personal opinion, practically any tree has an extremely positive energy and work with it allows to calm nerves and balance the state of mind no worse than meditation or pills. Probably for this reason, the majority of carpenters and joiners I have met, were extremely balanced and good-natured people 🙂
The easiest and most frequent operation performed on wood is drilling holes, let’s see when and with what it is best to do them. Of course, different types of wood are different and soft pine or linden, require much less force in processing than, for example, beech or oak. However, the general application principles of the various drill types are the same for all types.
Three-point drill bits
Use: drilling holes of small diameter in wood, plywood, chipboard, etc.
Wood drill bits specifically for drilling in wood and materials containing wood (such as chipboard). By design, these drills have a sharpened spike in the front part, on the drill bit axis, for accurate positioning in the place of drilling. Furthermore, the cutting elements have a slight inclination towards the drill face and the entire structure resembles a trident. The spiral grooves, through which the drilled wood is removed, have a greater depth and an additionally sharpened edge to get a smoother hole.
Such sleeves usually have a smooth cylindrical shank under a cam chuck of a drill or an electric screwdriver, less often meet with a hex shank for holders of impact screwdrivers (so-called impact tools) and some other specific models of drilling devices.
The main feature when drilling with such drills, is to apply the force strictly perpendicular to the axis of the drill, otherwise it, in case of misalignment, will either bend (if bad) or break (if good), it is especially true for small drill diameters (up to 5 mm). When performing through drilling, it is desirable to put a roughing bar under the workpiece, so that the back side of the target workpiece is not torn out of the fibers at the exit of the trident. However, this tip is valid for any drill bit type.
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drill bits are excellent for pre-drilling holes before driving self-tapping screws to prevent the wood from cracking along the fibers. Sold individually or in sets, usually from 3 to 10mm in diameter. Advantages: Best for drilling holes in wood up to 10 mm in diameter. Cheap enough. Disadvantages: Small diameters are quite easy to break when tilting during drilling.
Universal spiral drill bits
Uses: drilling in different types of materials, including wood.
It is the most common drill bit type used for drilling not only wood, but also other materials: plastic, metal, foam concrete, etc. They are convenient to use when the hole is drilled in several, stacked in a “pie”, workpieces at once.
These drills have two cutting edges on the tapered tip and are spiral wound. Depth of the spiral grooves is less than wood drill bits and their edge is not as sharp. Are made both with smooth cylindrical shank and with hexagonal shank, if you buy a set of the second type, check that it has a mention or a sign that they are suitable for use with impact wrenches.
In general, universal drills are made of carbon or high-speed steel HSS/P6M5. the first option is cheaper, more brittle and withstands less lateral fracture stress than the latter, which has a small percentage of molybdenum and tungsten.
Such drills have a strictly defined angle of sharpening for certain types of material, although, for wood drilling this parameter is not very important, here the main thing is that the edge is just well sharpened. I will also note the difference of this type of drills by color:
- gray. the native color of the steel from which the drill bit is made, indicating the absence of additional processing;
- black and gold. svela underwent tempering, which removed the internal stress of steel;
- black. the impact of superheated steam was made, which increased the resistance of the drill bit to wear;
- Gold. titanium nitride coating, which increases the hardness of the drill bit and supposedly provides better sliding.
However, from personal experience I would like to note that it is not necessary to estimate quality by color. I have had drills both black and “gold” from different manufacturers, and they do not break any worse than usual 🙂 Especially Chinese manufacturers excel in such painting, the coating of which is erased after the first two drilled holes. The main thing is the manufacturing material of the drills, branded goes longer, and the coating withstands dozens of holes even in hard materials (subject to compliance with drilling rules).
With proper skill, the holes in wood are smooth, but the rate of drilling is lower than in the drills from the previous item, and a wide taper of the cutting edge increases the time of accurate positioning of the drilling center. It is necessary to drill in the same way as with wood drill bits, applying force strictly perpendicular to the axis of the drill, especially if we drill with small diameter.