How to make a welding holder with your own hands. types of holders
Welding industry is developing by leaps and bounds: new type of equipment makes welding accessible, useful and interesting thing for beginners and professionals. Let’s add another word. “comfortable” work.
What does it mean to work “comfortably? This means convenient, pleasant and efficient. This comfort is added by various modern components of the device. This of course includes the electrode holder, whose new, varied forms have appeared on the market in great numbers.
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How to use
Slag breaker use by a welder The use of a slag breaker can be talked about for quite a long time. Because it is this tool that is suitable for a variety of functions in welding works.
By the way, please note the article about welding masks with air supply.
- Slag detachment during coated electrode welding
- Slag separation during submerged-arc welding
- Hardening of the red-hot weld (with the blunt side of the tool)
- When using nozzles. stripping the weld after removing the slag
- Setting the necessary gap with a tapping or wedging method
- Bending a small part
- Elimination of such defects as a drop of hot metal in the zone around the weld
- With multilayer welding, again, the stripping of the previous layer before welding the next layer is mandatory. This is where the welding slag breaker comes in handy
The main working elements of the slag breaker are the handle and the bilateral head (another name is the chisel). The head can have different shapes. Manufacturers offer several combinations of such configurations. Consider the most popular combinations, as well as what work the welder can do with each type.
Pick and chisel
Rather popular among welders are hammers with a chisel on one side of the head and a spade on the other. Chisel conveniently and efficiently removes slag and beats out spattered metal; can also be used for piercing a joint. Chisel helps to get rid of spots with unwelded spots, and is also an excellent option for chipping off thin joints. Manufacturers offer models where the chisel is located along (parallel) to the handle and across (perpendicular) to it.
Country of production. USA.
Chisel and chisel
Welders are given models of hammers, where both sides of the head is shaped like a standard chisel. The chisel is parallel to the handle on one side and perpendicular to the handle on the other. Tools of this type effectively remove slag and spatters. The operator can choose the position of the chisel that is convenient for him.
- The forged bit is made of special steel.
- Ergonomic handle made of hickory wood with high resistance to breakage.
- Weight. 454 gr.
- Length. 328 mm.
Z-shaped peak. why
Some manufacturers offer hammers in which the pointed part of the head is curved in a shape resembling the letter Z. With this bent tip the welder can clean the surface of the weld with backward movements. Increases the safety of your work.
Chisel and flat beater
A convenient variant of a hammer is a tool with a chisel and flat beater. The chisel removes dirt, and the flat head can be used to crush, bend and flatten metal where necessary. There are no such models on sale. Therefore, with the following video and make such a hammer yourself.
Welding hammer. purpose and characteristics of the tool
In addition to the inverter, electrodes and welding mask, the welder always has to carry one tool. a special hammer for slag separation. In this article, the master plumber will consider why it is so important for welders, what hammers of this plan are, and which are better.
The welder’s hammer is designed primarily to quickly separate the slag, which is formed during manual welding with coated electrodes, or remains after the welding tractor using flux. Chipping off the slag is very important to check the quality of the connection, as well as with multi-layered welds, where the second pass is always made on clean metal, without debris and easily fusible impurities.
Slag hammer can also perform other operations during the work of the welder. Among the most common:
- Knock down drips of stuck metal. When the arc burns, the filler and base material are partially spattered. The heated droplets adhere to the surface in the seam area, but are not welded to it. To give the product an aesthetic appearance, it is necessary to beat off the solidified spatters with a sharp side.
- If there was a failure to weld, in order to redo this area qualitatively, you need to completely remove the slag from the point or cleavage in the seam. If this is not done, the molten metal will flow around this point and cannot be welded. Do this with the sharp, narrow edge of a hammer.
- Tougher welding tools are best suited for forging alloyed steels. Tapping the joint with a blunt edge will harden the metal structure in that area.
- The same product can be used to adjust the sides to the proper level or gap between them.
- Bending a heated piece and tapping it against the surface to make the seam easier will get the “heavy” version of the tool.
- In welding jobs, it may be necessary to cut a new cable from the reel to extend the mass or the wire on the holder. This can be done with a hammer with a wide nose like a pickaxe.
Unlike a slag breaker, an ordinary hammer will not be effective at removing the slag crust:
- First, a simple tool has more weight and puts a significant load on the hand of the worker.
- Second, the design of the slag breaker is such that you can feel virtually no recoil.
- Third, it is not possible to reach every joint with a regular hammer. к. It has no pointed end, unlike a special welder’s tool.
The welder has to make different connections and welds. Depending on the type of work, slag hammers also vary in design.
The main structural elements of a slag picker are the double-sided working part (flail) and the handle.
The welder’s hammer should not have too much weight and other parameters. Optimal weight of the working part is about 0,4 kg, length 15-20 cm. Length of the handle. 25-30 cm.
The working part in the form of a double-sided head can be of different configurations. The following shapes are common:
- Chisel chisel. One side of the chisel runs along the handle, the other. perpendicular to it. The welder can choose such a position of the chisel, which is convenient for him in the removal of spattered metal and slag.
- Flat side chisel. This type is difficult to find in the free sale, but you can make it yourself. The flat side can be used to flatten, undercut, or bend metal where needed, and the chisel can be used to remove slag.
- Pick (stinger) chisel. Some models have the chisel running perpendicular to the handle, others along the handle. The chisel is especially handy for knocking out weld spatter and removing slag, as well as for piercing joints. The chisel is used to chisel away thin joints, as well as to get rid of untested areas.
- Z-peak. For the safety of the work it is better to clean the weld in the direction “from yourself”. Models with a working part curved in the shape of the letter Z are well suited for this purpose.
How to make a welder’s hammer with your own hands?
Despite the variety of tools for removing dross and slag after welding, it is not always possible to buy a ready-made welding hammer. However, do not get upset. Making a homemade cinder block is not very difficult. The main thing is that the working elements (blade and stinger) have sufficient hardness, otherwise they will blunt quickly during the work.
Usually in this case, craftsmen use an old chisel or a flat file, because they are made of good tool steel and hardened to a high hardness. The problem can be only in welding them with a steel handle, which can be any iron you have on hand (cylindrical or hexagonal rod, a scrap of rebar, round or rectangular tube).
To ensure that the original parts are welded, you can use a scrap of reinforcement of large diameter (at least 20 mm) as a beater. After welding, it is necessary to shape the cutting edges, and then quench them.
The choice of a slag breaker depends on the expected amount of welding work. If you are going to use the tool occasionally, you can buy the cheapest hammer with a spring-loaded metal handle. If you can not buy it, it is quite possible to make a homemade one, using everything that can be found in the household of the future welder. connoisseurs of good tools can opt for a relatively expensive model of a well-known manufacturer.
The welder always has to carry one tool, a special hammer, in addition to the inverter, electrodes and mask, to separate the slag. An ordinary hammer does not cope as effectively with this task, and it weighs more, so it greatly overloads the hand of the worker, because in a day you have to beat off the slag from hundreds of joints. Therefore, special slag breakers with different shapes and functions have been developed. A slag breaker welder’s hammer can also be made by hand. What is better to make it from, and what shape is described below.
Dimensions and weight
In one working day, a professional welder makes a large number of joints, the slag is beaten off from hundreds of seams. Therefore, a special hammer should have a small weight and parameters. [ads-pc-2][ads-mob-2]
According to the rules, the optimal mass of the chisel varies in the range of 300-400 grams. This weight does not overburden the hand and allows for efficient slag beating. Handle length of the order of 250-300 mm will be enough for any level of performer. The length of the metal striker should be 150-200 mm.
Schematic diagram of a spotter based on a welding machine
In this case, the best option is a spotter control system made of simple and accessible parts, the schematic of which was published in the “Modelist-Konstruktor” magazine (see. below).
The calculated no-load voltage for this circuit is about 6.5 В. S1 is the circuit breaker input. S2. disconnect button, closing of which energizes contactor K1 and opens its contacts K1.1 and K1.2. Control of the welding process duration is visual.
In principle, it’s not difficult to supplement this spotter control circuit from a welder with a time relay (i.e. ч. electronic) and current control system.
To convert an old shock absorber into a useful tool, you will need its top and stem.
Take care in advance to have a container to drain the oil that will spill out of the saw.
- The stand must be clamped in a bench vice and carefully trimmed with a manual angle grinder to the plate with the installed spring, without touching the rod. All fasteners and parts of the rack must be disassembled and removed, from the upper cover of the shock absorber take out the oil seal and bushing.
- To assemble a complete and functional reverse hammer, the handle, moving weight and nozzles need to be mounted on the shock-absorbing rod.
- If you have in the garage found the handle parts of an old peorator or a hand drill. it’s good luck, if not. you can attach to the rod any clamp resembling a handle, able to cope with the task and comfortable for your hands.
- The handle clamp is attached to the part where the threaded joint is located on the rod. As bushings, screw on two nuts and weld securely. Upper rod cover is put on from the back end and also welded to the nuts. Roughness, drips and weld overlaps can be ground with an angle grinder, and then you can screw on the clamp handle.
An alternative option is to weld a suitable diameter washer to the rod at a palm width distance from the edge, wrap a fuel hose around the handle against slipping and fasten it to the thread with a small washer and nut.
You can use the cut off top of the rack to make a movable weight. In addition, it is necessary to find a tube of the right diameter: so that it slides freely along the rod and enters into the prepared cylinder from the shock-absorber rack, leaving a free space inside. The inner and outer parts of the future weight should be centered with nuts or washers, and one of the ends should be welded so that the pipe hole remains open. The gap between the parts is filled with molten lead or zinc, such as from an old battery or carburetor, to add weight to the dummy. Before pouring the molten compound, the body of the weighting rod should also be heated with a torch. After cooling of the metal the received weight of a rebound clean up the angular grinder to give it a neat look and to remove superfluous drops from welding, and establish on a rod. To use the inverted hammer to its full potential and apply it to a variety of applications, make attachments to the free end of the rod: bolt hooks, socket attachments, etc.д. For straightening minor dents in the car body, the slide hammer can be used in conjunction with retrieval magnets available from specialty stores.
Hi all.I had a need to straighten the body of my car, so I needed a reverse hammer.It’s a pretty cool thing to do and a household necessity. Buying it was not, because the price of reverse hammers, to put it mildly overpriced.It came out like this
I chose a pair of shock absorbers with a thin rod at the service station. I sawed the shock absorber and cut out a piece the size of my hand, the part with a hole in it,
from the other shock absorber removed the assembly where the oil seal was located,
Inserted the rod, the fill lead, welded and passed through the hole where the rod will walk drill, hammer weight was about 1.5 kg (not weighed by eye, is transformed slightly, below corrected, the mass of about 700 grams, but my scales do not have much faith).The hammer was wrapped in 2 layers of heat shrink.The rear shock consists of a few washers, and two nuts sealed on Loctite, which welded a stud holding a plastic handle made from the handle of an angle grinder or something dunno, found in the garage. The spring is for the liking, you can not put. A long nut on the working part serves as a holder of interchangeable attachments.
For those who are interested in what and how it is screwed on the working part
Any type of body work is expensive and requires special skills and tools. However, it is possible to save on the purchase of some by constructing them yourself. For example, a reverse hammer with your own hands can be done in an hour. This will allow you to make and control the process of leveling the dent on the bodywork in hard-to-reach places by yourself.