DIY amateur sawing table
Good afternoon everyone! During the discussion of one of my reviews, in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев, the participants were asked to do a review of the sawing table I work on. In this review I will tell you how I made a sawing table from what I had, plus some small things I bought. A detailed SketchUp model of the table, with all elements and components, is attached to the review.
I’ve been thinking about a sawing table for a long time, but there was a huge amount of other things to do, and it was naturally put off until better times. Then, when last year was more or less calm winter, I came across a series of videos on home-made sawing tables and realized that this is what it is time to do.
In so many video reviews the tables are made so seriously, and always against the background of fully equipped workshops with lots of machines, that sometimes you look at your working conditions and doubt whether to take. In this review, I’ll tell you how I made a table in fairly Spartan conditions, with a circular saw, angle grinder, screwdriver and router (just here was the first time tried the router, which was new in a box for 3 years).
I had a handheld circular saw Hitachi C6SS, a cheap but very reliable machine, which had done so much work on the construction site that it should be put on a pedestal and prominently displayed in the workshop. But since any tool must work until the end, she was offered a new place.
After the main stage of the house construction, I had a whole sheet of 21 mm plywood (FC 4/4), which stood alone for 3 years, and the time came to use it anywhere. At that time I didn’t make a separate project for the table, the whole idea and picture I had in my head, so I did it on the spot, and the main components and materials were chosen during realization, I ran my eyes over what was in the closet, the workshop, in the drawers with hardware and fasteners and other small items. Accordingly, not made any simulation, but for this review, I have transferred the desktop in a 3D-model in SketchUp, tried to represent all the components, the only thing I have not traced the nuts and screws, it was lazy and I already seemed more a waste of time, because in principle it is already clear and if anything, I will explain in the course of the review. The model shows how and what is assembled, layer by layer you can remove the enlarged elements, perhaps someone will find this model useful for repetition, or as an idea for their realization.
CIRCULAR TABLE with your own hands. In detail, from A to Z
So, I took a sheet of 21 mm plywood, marked and sawed with a circular saw the base of the table with the size 1100 mm х 820 mm The table is big, but I wanted a universal table, on which I can saw small parts and large-sized sheet materials, plywood, laminated wood particle board for cabinet furniture, as well as wooden plates and cardboard.
Then I turned the resulting sheet, marked it, put a circular saw with a raised disk on the sheet, outlined the contour of the saw’s sole with a pencil, and selected material in the resulting projection of the sole to a depth of about 12 mm with a router with a groove cutter. The circular saw sole is then inserted into the hole. Beforehand the handle and the blade guard are removed from the saw.
Along the contour of the saw sole in the base sheet of the table 4 holes were made for M8 bolts. From the top of the base (back) were installed whisker nuts M8. The bottom of the saw is set in a recess and clamped through the reinforced washers with bolts M8 to the table base.
Then we loosen the mechanism of depth of cut adjustment of saw, put the saw into the socket and, pushing the saw, we saw through the table base to the full depth, from the back (working) side of the table we have a disk. Here is the most important point. when installing the saw into the recess not to mix up her direction in which to turn the disk (disk from the working surface of the table should rotate on itself), I while trying on, almost mixed up, well in time noticed. By the way, I used a saw in Sketchup from 3D Warehouse and if you look at the photo of my table, the saw drivers in SketchUp (Makita) and in real life (Hitachi) are mirror images, located on opposite sides of the saw. I found only such model of the saw, and it left, the main thing is correct direction of rotation of the disk. Everyone’s saw is different anyway.
With the table like that you can saw on it:. place the base of the table on chairs / stools / drawers (I positioned in the workshop with one side on the shelf of a shelf, the other on the back of a chair against the wall);. relative to the saw blade, using a long ruler, draw the axial line of the cut.Take a long piece of aluminum angle (or bar, or flat board), place it on the angle relative to the cutting line, fix it to the table with clamps. and we have an improvised temporary parallel stop.
That’s how I sawed all the other parts of the table while it was slowly putting together.
The first thing I decided to do was to cut out the saw blade guard for dedusting. For the first time in my life I was able to instantly, without fitting, get completely identical parts, like twin brothers. The casing. four walls of 10mm plywood, the bottom of a piece of fiberboard. We glued everything with PVA and self-tapping screws.
To connect the vacuum cleaner, I made a hole in the bottom corner of the box under the bimetal core sewer fitting 50 mm. For fastening the fitting to the box, I cut the cut of the fitting into sectors, inserted the fitting, heated sectors and bent them to the wall of the box, then on each sector I walked with small screws, filled the gaps from the back side with thermo glue. It turned out firmly, and from the careless movement of the hose vacuum cleaner fitting exactly will not pull out of the body.
For fastening the box to the table I used 30×30 metal angles, and 15×30 for the lock. Made of sliced plywood plates 6 mm dremel flat eyelets, glued them to the table, they are inserted into the corners of the box. On the other side of the box with a metal plate and screws made a kind of lock.
We connect the vacuum cleaner, try it. all the dust is inside, it won’t fly in the face.
We sawed out the longitudinal ribs on the table, and glued them to the base with PVA and self-tapping screws. We would also fasten the parallel support guide profiles to the same ribs.
Since the surface of the future table needs to be smooth to slide the workpieces and materials smoothly, and plywood FC 4/4 does not contribute to normal sliding, we had to invent something with the coating. Generally for such tables usually use laminated plywood, but we only sell them in huge sheets, and the main idea was to use the existing sheet of plywood. A big corporate announcement poster of foamed PVC, 4 mm thick, came along., Printed on one side only, respectively, a clean white reverse side is perfect as a facing material for the table.
I should say right away that foamed PVC is not the best material for such purposes. I don’t know how long it will last, but it still has grooves and scratches from the sharp ends of the skipped parts. While it is not critical, and may not be critical at all, may have to change in the future, or cover the top with a thin sheet of other material. Plexiglas sheet would have been suitable for this purpose, but we didn’t have it.
For the future carriages and pushers it is necessary to lay in the base of the table guides from aluminum profiles in the form of channel 15x10x1. For installation in the base, the cross slots for the aluminum profiles were marked and made with a router with a slot cutter. Since we have a 4 mm thick PVC sheet on top of the table, the grooves are 6 mm deep.
I cut the PVC sheet into three parts, two left and right of the profiles and a part between the profiles. When I put the profiles in the slots, I found the following problem, or rather it’s called a joint. The sheet of the base of the table with a sag! About 3mm in the center of the sheet relative to the edge, I checked it with a meter long steel ruler, it’s easy to see. The sheet of plywood stood for three years in the boiler room, upright against the wall, although it might have been crooked from the beginning. Out of spite took an angle grinder, a petal wheel and went outside to fix the deflection by removing the material on the edges. There was a bucket of dust. As much patience as I had. I took it off, but the area is large. The rest of the deflection decided to correct as follows. Since I planned to attach aluminum profile and PVC sheets with liquid nails Moment MV-100, in the central part of the sheet and grooves, I made a larger portion of glue, with gaps for later shrinkage during leveling. From the edges of the sheet glue applied an even layer. Then on the glue put aluminum profiles in the grooves, and then to the profiles all three sheets. Took a long aluminum corner 40h40h2 and moving across the table began to align the height of the central part of the sheets and profiles relative to the edges. After passing the profile I checked the gaps and the evenness of the sheets in transverse, longitudinal and diagonal directions. everything worked. MV-100 hardens like a rock, respectively, the performance and rigidity of the table was not lost.
Next we had to make a parallel stop. As the main element of the stop was used aluminum profile 40x40x2 (which I used for alignment earlier). To improve the rigidity and weight of the construction of the stop, as well as the ease of installation of subsequent parts, it was decided to glue a wooden bar 30×30 into the profile. I also glued it with MOMENT MV-100. I also made other details of the stop out of profiles and glued double slats of plywood 40mm wide.
For transverse movement and fixation of the stop a system consisting of a C-shaped steel profile, a slider made of oak parquet board and a square washer on a long M8 bolt was chosen. The head of the bolt was ground well, a square thick molded washer (from the bar fasteners of cable tracks) had a recess, where the head of the bolt was sunk and planted on the two-component epoxy glue.
On the back side of the bolt, which goes through the cross clamping element of the stop, was installed a round handle with an M8 ear nut (the handle also made from plywood directly on the saw blade)
A square washer with sliders winds with C-profile, relative to which moves the design of the stop, when screwing the handle the stop we press the square washer to the outer walls of the C-profile and fix the stop relative to the table. Also, a square washer prevents the bolt from turning in the profile when tightening the handle.
On the reverse side of the table also placed a C-profile, and wanted to do the same system, but feared that the stop will be heavily wedged when moving, and I need fixing and the reverse side, too, I need flatness stop relative to the centerline on both sides, and with fixing only one point does not always work, where will be flat, and in some position and 2-3 mm, perhaps not ideal C-profile, although it looks flat. I came up with a much simpler design: at the bottom of the C-profile I placed a part-runner, with a stud M8 fixed in it, and through the intermediate element and stop drilled a hole and brought up the counter part of the stud, on which planted another handle with an ear nut M8. Now screwing the handle, I press the slider to the C profile through the stud and thus fix the far part of the stop in relation to the table.
Work with the stop is as follows:. I loosen both handles on the stop;. I move the stop in the right direction;. I measure the required distance from the stop to the centerline of the cut at the bottom of the stop with the square;. I fix the bottom part with the handle;. I check the distance from the stop to the centerline of the cut at the top of the stop;. I fix the top part with the handle;. You may saw.
To work with parts and workpieces on the table, a simple carriage and a small pusher with guide sliders were made.
The carriage and the pusher are made of 16 mm thick laminated wood particle board, I used 40x40x2 aluminum profile in the pusher. The sliders for the rails were made of oak, I cut thin slats from an oak parquet board. I glued the sliders to the carriages with PVA and self-tapping screws. To improve the sliding of the oak slider in the guide aluminum channel, I impregnate the oak laths with spray silicone grease, the wood absorbs it and moves perfectly in the profile without jamming.
The workshop room in the house is very small, so the table must be collapsible (not needed. disassembled), and portable, so you can take it outside for work. That’s why it was decided to make the table legs in the form of a removable vertical frame with struts. On the bottom of the table, in the form of plywood slats, were glued counterparts with M8 whisker nuts to fasten the rack frames to the table with bolts with washers.
For electric connection of the saw I installed right next to the saw a socket, it plugs in the regular mains plug of the saw. The socket I plugged in from a contactor, the contactor is controlled by a block of START/STOP buttons, mounted on a separate plate on the front side of the table. The contactor is powered by a separate long cable to the wall socket. The trigger on the saw is secured with a coupler.
To collect dust and sawdust with a vacuum cleaner also use a homemade cyclone from a bucket, cover and sewer fittings:
What are the problems and what I plan to finish:
The table works, very well, the results of it can be seen in my other reviews. For non-professional use is enough. It was easy to make, quick and inexpensive. Of course there are much more advanced designs, but they require more time and money. If you have any additional questions/criticism/Комментарии и мнения владельцев/suggestions for improvement, I think all will be useful, as on mysku Комментарии и мнения владельцев. a huge trove of knowledge.
The list of necessary tools and materials for the stop
There are two simple options for making a parallel stop with your own hands (without the use of bearings and other elements that complicate the assembly). To choose the right design should be determined by the needs arising in the processing of specific building materials.
For each construction you need to choose a solid rail, which will eventually move around the work area of the table. To create a strong and durable construction, it is desirable to use for the assembly of extruded profile (magnesium or aluminum alloy).
Important! The dimensions in the article will be given approximate, since they need to be selected depending on the dimensions of the saw itself.
Material for the assembly Approximate dimensions of the aluminum angle used to create a rail:
To make a parallel stop for a circular saw with your own hands, you will need the following tools:
- Angle grinder with metal disks, which will be used to cut off the extra parts of the angle.
- File for deburring the cuts (it is desirable to treat the metal immediately after sawing, so as not to cut yourself during the assembly of the construction).
- For the marking of the future workpiece you need to use any pencil, marker and puncher.
- Measuring tape or a meter is a must for exact marking of the workpiece.
- Use a drill to make the holes in the parallel stop. The diameter of the drill bit is chosen by the craftsman himself, depending on what screws he will use in the future.
- The screws themselves, with which the parts will be fastened.
- Several pins (8 by 18 mm).
- Tap (M5) for threading (for the second version of the design).
This is the entire list of necessary materials and tools that will need to be used to create a parallel stop at home.
How to use the circular saw correctly
Important! As soon as you finish working with the machine, you need to check that it is in the off position.
Common to these designs is the rail, which moves relative to the cutting disc along the plane of the saw’s work table. When creating this rail, it is suggested to use a typical pressed profile of rectangular unequal angle section of aluminum or magnesium alloys. When assembling the parallel angular stop with your own hands other profiles of similar cross section can be used, according to the length and width of the working plane of the table, as well as the brand of the circular saw.
The proposed variants of the drawings use an angle with the following dimensions (mm):