Circular saw hurricane mcs 165 bearing replacement
Typical malfunctions of handheld circular saws include the following situations.
- Saw does not start. The mains cord, the power plug, the start button or the electric brushes could be defective.
- The tool motor is extremely hot. These symptoms can be caused by an inter-turn short circuit (open circuit) in the armature or stator coils, or by the unit being operated too intensively.
- The gearbox on the tool overheats. Overheating of the assembly may be caused by bearing failure or lack of lubrication on the gears.
- Brushes are sparking. This is usually caused by excessive wear and tear.
- A burning ring can be seen around the motor manifold. If there is a circular spark around the engine collector when the machine is running, the spark can be a faulty armature or graphite dust between the lamellae on the collector.
- The machine does not develop the necessary output. The drop in power can be due to a voltage drop in the mains, motor windings failure, worn electric brushes, failure of the start button.
- While the machine is running, a grinding noise and other extraneous noises can be heard. These symptoms may be caused by broken gear teeth or faulty bearings.
- The engine is humming, but the unit is not working. Seizure in the gearbox may have occurred.
Let’s take a look at the most important features to help you choose from our huge selection.
- The manufacturer. Manufacturers of such attachments are often specialized companies in the production of tools. That’s why companies may pay less attention to the quality of components, focusing on the technique. But this cannot be said about promoted brands like Bosch or Makita, which not only value their reputation, but also have the opportunity to use higher-quality raw materials and modern processing technologies. Therefore, one of the main parameters of saw blades and cutters is the brand.
- The next important parameter that determines the capabilities of the sawing nozzle are the dimensions of the wheel, and more precisely, its outer and landing diameter. When judging this criterion it is necessary to care about the calculation beforehand and to find out the necessary cutting depth, which is the measure of the outside diameter. But when choosing also need to keep in mind the size of the tool and its guard. These sizes can make it impossible to install a disc with a large diameter, as removing the protection is not safe and not always possible.
This is possible if the inside diameter of the disc is larger than the shaft coverage. Because once the blade is mounted, it will create imbalance in the tool and, as a consequence, a high level of vibration. Depending on the tool model, the diameter can have values between 16 and 32mm.
- The number of teeth plays an important role in the quality and clarity of the cut, as it determines the number of cutting edges. The larger they are, the clearer the cutting line for the trimmer. Such attachments come in a wide range of diameters (around 90 pcs.), depending on the model of the tool, the teeth can be set at three different diameters.), the average (40-80 pcs.) and small (up to 40 pcs.) number of teeth.
- Other criteria, such as tooth shape and pitch, are also important when analyzing circular saw blades. First one indicates whether it is possible to cut one material or another, the second one indicates the type of cut. So it is easier to cut longitudinal cuts with the disk with the positive slope of 15 to 20 degrees, and it is better to cut tough materials with the nozzle with negative slope of 0 to 20 degrees.5 degrees. There is also the standard tilt type, which is considered universal.
- As for the saw blade teeth, they can be universal, flat, interchangeable, trapezoidal or extra angled. A blade with a flat blade is good for making longitudinal cuts in hardwood, a blade with a replaceable blade for softer types of wood and laminated fiberboard. Trapezoidal teeth are good for cutting soft materials like plastics.
- The last important criterion is the thickness of the product. It determines how wide the cut will be. The wider it is, the more material is lost in the process. The thinner the disk, the more susceptible it is to deformation and overheating.
All of the above-mentioned technical characteristics of a saw blade are indicated on it. Markings are usually presented in a form of a proper, user-friendly pictogram with the necessary numerical data.
There are two kinds of circular saw blades: solid carbide and monoblade. This division describes the difference that immediately catches the eye. The fact is that some discs have a cutting part soldered onto the teeth, and some discs are simply a single piece (monolith).
the special thing about monobloc discs is that they have a very large number of teeth. It is much easier to get a clean cut while working with such a disc. But it is worth noting the poor sharpening ability of these cutting wheels and the need for periodic reaming.
It is easy to sharpen metal, but the large number of blades slows down the process.
Carbide tines are considered more reliable because they are more durable and do not require constant sharpening and dressing. These undercutting discs have the most options, they help save time because of their reliability. However, a significant drawback is the large number of low-grade imitations of even the famous brands.
But counterfeit can also be successfully fought, if you pay closer attention to the correct spelling of the brand, as well as the high quality and durability of the paint, with which the marking is made.
How to change a disk on a crosscut saw
I bought a combined sabre saw Zubr ZPTK-210-1500
Комментарии и мнения владельцев 57
Don’t mix up circular saw blades, there are circular saw blades for slitting. if you don’t know.
What’s the difference? ? I thought if I had something rough to cut, like a board, it has fewer teeth, if it is chipboard, it has more teeth
There’s a difference, I didn’t know it myself. The end saws have a lot of teeth. but the longitudinal ones, after the teeth, there is a ledge where there is no tooth. technology. eh
my blade is 80 teeth, aluminum wood, just like i mentioned in the thread, only for 80 and size 210. It saws fine both chipboard on the saw table and the end face and aluminum. Of course, if you work with it from morning till night, it will fail fast
If you undercut, you can move the stop bar forward by just a couple of millimeters, no? I had a Bosch 8c also out of the box did not finish sawing, I moved the stop bar and that’s it.
I will look at it, but I doubt it will move, maybe it just can not saw through on its own, not a cut in the length at an angle of 45. Everything else is sawed
Most likely it will fit, but maybe something needs to be corrected from the elements. I put a 230 blade on the Metabo 216, but had to remove the plastic cover.
Look at the analogue of Interskol (if the budget does not allow Makita/DeWALT) I when I chose Interskol PTK 216, also fancied and the frequency of cutting there is normal, but the woodworking machine is separate and needed only facing tool with a broach.
For not frequent use in the garage I am completely satisfied, earlier, what bar to saw off so much time wasted, I marked and one thing is crooked and chipped, and now well, nice job))
For quality saws I recommend the not expensive Bosch PCM 8S. I have been using it for 5 years, I just change the wheels for more accurate and sharpened ones or for specialty ones when cutting plastics or aluminum. The table stand with extensions on the sides was also a positive discovery for me.
There are downsides. I have an observation about a faulty clamp and a laser that gets clogged with resin from fir trees.
the angle drift of complex designs (polyhedral frames) can be compensated for on the last segment by filing its ends at certain micro angles until the entire polyhedral frame comes together.
I don’t keep the guide pins in the garage.к. chrome starts to corrode from dripping condensate. Pity.
Don’t buy the cheap ones, their mechanics are lame!
What is the difference between a circular saw and a saw?
Repair of Interskol DP 190/1600M circular saw. The carpenter’s workshop.
Continuation of the epic with the Interskol manual circular saw repair
But sometimes the saw doesn’t work at all. No sound, no smell. does not turn on. How paradoxical it may seem, this case is the most optimistic, because the reason of this dysfunction can consist in the banal violation of the continuity of the power cord or in the breakage of its contacts. Therefore the first thing to do is to check the supply wires for a breakage.
Schematic diagram for checking if the circular saw is working.
If everything is alright with the cord, there is no need to rush to disassemble it. Before that it is better to check the brushes. These are elements of the so-called sliding contact, which are designed to supply current to the moving rotating elements of electrical devices. They are several small bars of special conductive material (coal or graphite) resting directly on the collector (the rotor part of the motor).
Brushes are subject to heavy wear and tear due to the constant rotation of the collector and rub against the moving surfaces. After some time of operation, they wear down to the point that they can simply “hang” over the contact pads without reaching them. In addition, there is sometimes a contact fault between the brushes and the stator terminals. All this should be regularly checked and corrected, for which purpose most tools have a special cover or a cover with easily unscrewed screws.
This accessory is well suited for fairly compact manual circular saws, often used in DIY or do-it-yourself chainsaws. Compactness is not a hindrance. cutting depths of many circular saw models of this type reach up to 70 mm, which enables working with very “serious” lumber.
Presenting the three nominees. the most productive blade, the cleanest wood cut, the finest work with workpieces.
Suggested reading: Replacement of the log in the house wall
One step at a time
Use a wooden hammer or bar to dismantle the stator. By tapping on the end of the stator case take the stator out of the case. By the way, to get the stator you need to remove the mechanical housing.
Remember to disconnect the stator leads from the terminals going out around the collector. Attach one end to the brush holder and the other end to the 220V supply wire.
Now’s the time to split it into two halves.
The two halves of the stator are glued together with a thin layer of glue. To separate one from the other you need to hit the stator core with a mallet. If you have received a non-disassembled stator, the dismantling of the wire is done by cutting all the coils from one end with wire cutters. After cutting, disassembling, take out the wire and measure the wire diameter and the number of turns. Use only a micrometer to measure wire diameter. Beforehand, the wire should be pre-loaded with a match flame, wiped off the carbon deposits and measured when cooled.
Most often the coils are impregnated with an insulating varnish that does not allow the wires to separate.
Using an industrial hair dryer, heat the coils until they disintegrate into individual wires. You can also heat impregnated wires on a gas stove over a burner.
disassembling the stator, be sure to measure. We need to measure the wire diameter, the number of turns in one coil, the percentage of filling the stator slot, the material from which the wires are made. It is recommended to wind only copper wires.
Coils wound on a template before inserting them into the stator
Wires are classified according to their cross section. Having measured the diameter of the wire, recalculate its cross section using the formula S =ηr ², where r =½d.
And now in plain language: the cross-section is 3.14 times half the diameter squared.
Why all this mess? If it turns out that you have a wire of a different diameter, you can’t do without calculations. If you have a thin wire, you can wind it in 23 wires, the main thing that their total cross section was not less than the initial one.
If you have slightly larger wire, you may use that as well, as long as you didn’t fill the slot in the old drive.
A winding option for the non-disassembly stator
For winding of stator coils we need to prepare the wire of passing diameter, electric cardboard or press-span, adhesive tape, heat shrinkable tube of necessary diameter.
If you have a non-disassembled stator, you must make sleeves from press-span into its slots by cutting blanks to the width of the stator.
The blanks are cut from press-spun material with the width equal to the stator width and the length equal to the inner slot length. By the way, you should add 2 mm to the stator width on each side. After cutting out the blanks, seal the edges with a wide Scotch tape. 50mm wide duct tape is adequate for the Makita stator.
Place a strip of duct tape on one side of the workpiece, cut. On the second strip of adhesive tape glue the plates with the same side, but with the other edge. Your job is to cover the edges of the blanks from tearing when winding.
Making fixture strips
To facilitate the process of winding by hand, make simple devices, which are strips of soft metal up to 0.8 mm thick. This can be galvanized steel, copper, aluminum. The strips are z.shaped strips that are 10 mm wide and 70 mm long.
Place the shrinking tube on the smaller hook of the fixture and heat it over the flame, crimp the end of the plate.
Secure the plates with tape to the stator housing.
The winding process
Wire prepared, fixture plates secured, data on the number of coils at hand. Front!
We put the stator on our lap, lead the end of the wire, put a red color heat shrink sleeve on it (it marks the beginning of the winding), fix the sleeve on the outside of the stator and start winding. By the way, the color of the tube can be any, you just need to choose a different color for the beginning and the end of the winding.
The winding process consists of feeding the wire into the groove with the thumb, loading the wire with the hook of the fixture plate, taking out the wire and loading the other side with the hook of the plate.The most important thing is to keep an eye on the number of windings. The winding process is repeated for the second coil.
This can be perfectly seen on the video below.
All! The stator is wound. We need to tie the windings together carefully, to make the armature.
The process of armoring the stator windings
Armoring is called winding of stator coils, which protects them from destruction in the process of operation. At high speed all parts are affected by different vibrations, which leads to destruction of the integrity of the windings, their friction against each other and damage to the insulation.
Process of impregnation of stator windings
The main task of stator coil impregnation is to get the monolithic construction, which is not destroyed with time by vibration. Before impregnation, wooden spacers are inserted inside the stator to press the coils down. Work should be done carefully and cautiously.
Ideally a transformer is needed for impregnation. Impregnation of coils is recommended to conduct under voltage, so that the wires vibrate and warm up. This allows the impregnation to get into every crevice. A small amount of voltage is applied to the winding until it begins to vibrate. It can be easily detected by leaning a screwdriver on the inside of the rotor.
It is ideal to use a special lacquer and apply it in several layers. You can also use an ordinary paint for interior painting of PF-115 type. Having poured 50 g of the paint into a separate container, dilute it with solvent to the consistency of water.
Using a syringe draw out the paint and squirt it onto the stator coil until it penetrates fully into the center of the coil. The stator must be warm and connected to the AC supply. As source it is better to use a transformer, the primary winding of which is powered through the LATP.
Don’t forget to control the stator temperature. To the touch, your hand can hardly withstand the temperature of the case. At higher temperatures reduce the supply voltage of the transformer with the LATP.
The consistency of the paint depends on the diameter of the wire. The thicker the wire, the thicker the paint. Soak until paint appears at the bottom. After turning the stator over, continue the impregnation. Leave the stator under the guide until it is completely dry.
Design and principle of operation of the circular saw
Handheld circular saw differs from a coping saw in the absence of a bed with a turntable, as well as the placement of the handle. But in general, both models are similar in internal design, operating principle and do not differ in design complexity. The following illustration shows a manual circular saw.
The following are the main elements of the unit.
- Top guard with hole for emptying sawdust.
- Housing in which electric motor and start button are located. Some electric saw models can be battery operated. The battery pack is then also mounted on the tool body.
- Lower (sliding) protective hood that automatically closes the cutting element when it leaves the workpiece.
- Circular saw blade. Is fixed on the gearbox shaft with a nut or bolt.
- Parallel stop. Allows making a straight cut without using any additional accessories.
- Machine base plate. It enables the tool to be positioned at different angles on the workpiece or guide bar.
- Depth regulator. The saw blade can be adjusted in respect to the base plate.
- Adjusts the angle of the base plate. Allows the unit to be tilted for cutting at an angle.
The principle of operation of this machine is as follows. Power from the mains or battery is supplied to the start button, which breaks the circuit. Pressing the start button turns on the electric motor. The following is an electrical diagram of the machine.
The electric motor starts and transfers the rotary motion through the gearbox to the saw blade. The unit is positioned with the sole plate on the workpiece or guide bar, and then both longitudinal and crosscutting sawing is performed.
- Unscrew the angle and depth adjustment screws attached to the base of the machine.
- Press the gearbox shaft lock button and with the hex wrench unscrew the screw that holds the saw blade.
- Pull aside the lower guard and remove the circular saw blade.
- To remove the base plate, first unscrew the fasteners on the underside of the base plate.
- Next, use two screwdrivers to remove the Zieger ring that locks the rod on which the sole rotates to change the angle.
- Insert a screwdriver in the gap between the casing of the shield and the soleplate, and then pull it off.
- In the next step, unscrew all of the mounting screws located on the top casing of the unit.
- Also remove the screws that hold the sliding blade guard.
- Disconnect both safety guards from the power saw.
- Undo the screw holding the riving knife with the open-end wrench and remove it.
- Unscrew the rod that holds the sliding mechanism of the hood, and disconnect all its elements.
- Next, unscrew the 2 screws on the gearbox of the unit.
- When the mechanical part of the machine is disassembled, you can disassemble the electrical part of the device. Undo the fasteners that hold the motor cover and remove it.
- After removing the cover you will see the two electric brushes. If they need to be completely disconnected from the motor, it is advisable to use a marker to mark one of them, as well as the place from which it was removed.
- Next, unscrew the screws that are used to fasten the motor housing to the gear housing.
- After unscrewing fasteners, disconnect both assemblies.
- In the detached part of the motor housing you will see the stator coil.
- Next, unscrew all the fasteners from the handle of the machine. But before disconnecting it you need to remove the rubber cover by prying it off with a screwdriver.
- When you remove one half of the handle you will see the softstarter and the starter button.
This completes the disassembly of the circular saw.
Repairing the Interskol circular saw yourself
It happens that the shaft gets jammed when you operate the circular saw.
When the power tool is running, you may have accidentally pressed the stopper. Its purpose is to secure it on the shaft when changing tooling. The motor stops and the stopper stops. If it does not, the locking rod is broken, and its particles can penetrate the electric motor. The wedge occurs. It even happens that the anchor shaft deforms. A very unpleasant consequence of pushing on the stopper is the splitting of the gear case, the gearwheels are damaged by splitting and can also be wedged. To solve this problem, you need to replace the anchor with a stopper, and the big pinion in the gear housing.
Sometimes the gearbox is damaged if the bearing is completely destroyed.
While working with your circular saw, sometimes unpleasant loud noises can occur. A grinding noise during operation of the unit informs that the gear bearings are ruined.
Having disassembled this unit, as previously described, the bearings can be removed using special pullers and new parts can be supplied.