Organizers for tools. wall, mobile, stands
Work tools should be stored in proper conditions so that they don’t get lost or malfunction. For complete storage of small keys, screwdrivers, fasteners and other items, you can make handy boxes where each thing will be in its place. To make a box-organizer is not difficult, for this purpose is suitable any material at hand. dense cardboard, leatherette, plywood, boards, etc.
The organizer allows you to keep your tools clean and tidy.
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Assembling the drill stand
After selecting the desired drawing and preparing the necessary materials, start working. The simplest machine consists of 4 basic elements, among which:
- Stand. It ensures the stability of the entire structure.
- Stand. Consists of a vertical guide and a sliding carriage with a drill.
- Handle. This element allows the carriage to move smoothly. Not essential, but makes drilling much easier.
- Additional items. Construction parts that increase the functionality of the machine. For example, a return mechanism or mounts that set the drilling angle.
The base is an important part of the design, as it makes the stand stable during operation. Metal plate more than 10 mm thick or a wooden sheet of 20 mm thick are used for the construction
Thickness may vary depending on the load or the materials used. The greater the weight of the uprights, the sturdier the base.
Please note! The stand is made of improvised materials. The main condition. the base must be strong and be able to support the weight of the construction with the tools.
The main element of the machine, which allows you to move the drill smoothly in the vertical plane. The movement of the carriage is ensured by furniture rails. The carriage itself is placed in front of the post or between two parallel bars. In the second case, the likelihood of backlash is minimized, increases durability.
Step-by-step instructions on how to make a rack with a carriage in the middle:
- To make a carriage take a wooden bar 300x90x45 mm, screwed at the edges of the furniture rails.
- The vertical struts are made of two 600 mm high, 90 mm wide, 45 mm thick bars. The second part of the furniture rails is mounted on top. The opposite piece of wood must be assembled mirrorwise.
- Sliding parts assemble together, checking for smooth operation. Vertical bearing bars are connected to each other with a piece of wood. This will increase the strength and eliminate backlash.
- The structure is laid on the side, screw the bed. To make the rack stronger, in the back part put a support, firmly fixing the parts of the machine. Check that all corners are straight.
- The holder for the drill make of wood 200h90h20 mm and a plastic handle for the tool. On one edge of the carriage cut a hole to the diameter of the mount and screw it on. The drill is held securely in place this way.
- The drill holder is screwed to the bottom of the carriage with self-tapping screws. To prevent the joints from coming loose during operation, a connecting bar is installed between the parts.
- For convenience, the craftsman can put a shelf. In a bar 50×50 mm and wooden plank drill a through hole to the thickness of the threaded rod. Put a furniture sleeve in the hole. Screw the base of the shelf to the bar, put the threaded rod through and tighten with a nut. On the opposite side of the machine, the stud is inserted through the hole in the bar and secured with a wing nut and flat washer.
- For ease of use, a spring return mechanism is installed in the back of the machine. Screw a threaded hook into the top of the stand and the holder, tension the spring.
N.B! Minimum equipment is sufficient for the use of the machine. Master sets drill with drill bit down, secures to handle
Start the tool and drill the required hole.
The video shows the assembly process of the machine:
The machine can be supplemented with a handle to make use of the drill stand comfortable and enjoyable. Lever helps lower the carriage with minimal effort. The result is extremely precise drilling.
- To create the handle take 2 bars of wood 450h30h15 mm and 204h30h15, respectively, drill holes according to the scheme.
- Measure 270 mm from the top of the vertical guide and drill a through hole. Long bar and the rail are connected by bolt M6x80, separating by nuts M6. Secure the bolt with a double nut.
- Bolt the short piece to the lever and the holder for the drill.
Pay attention! To simplify the connection and make the movement smooth, install mounts on bearings.
After completing the assembly, the wooden elements are processed with sandpaper. Eliminate all burrs and injurious corners.
All of the drilling tools on the market differ from one another primarily by design and functionality. In addition, they can be equipped with various devices, the list of which includes, for example, vices and dust collectors. Additional elements make the tools as easy to use as possible.
According to the principle of use, we can distinguish two categories of devices.
- Stationary stands that turn an ordinary drill, torch, or electric screwdriver into a compact analog of a machine tool. These products, because of their weight and rigidity, ensure a high degree of accuracy in all operations. The main disadvantages are lack of mobility and high cost.
- Mobile drilling attachments or guides, which are devices that provide acceptable drilling accuracy at a minimum size.
- Vertical drilling stands, which are universal holders with maximum stability. They often become an indispensable element of mini-workshops and helpers of home craftsmen.
- Rotary devices, which are more complex and functional equipment. Besides moving the arm with the attached drilling tool vertically to set the required distance from the work material to the drill bit’s stroke, such stands allow you to set the drilling angle. As a result, the equipment can also be used as a milling or polishing machine.
A table-top drill stand
Drill bits must be changed constantly while working. It often happens that you put a drill bit somewhere and later it is difficult to find it. By making a small stand with your own hands from only four parts, you will place drills, punches, pencils, cutters and other similar attachments in it.
For the top layer of the fixture, light-colored plastic is best, as it shows the lettering clearly and is also easier to make neat holes in it. For the middle piece, choose a piece of particleboard or fiberboard 16 mm thick or slightly thicker. Screw the two pieces together and mark the hole pattern with an awl. Mark on a square grid with a side of 15 mm for drills, and for other items oriented by place, depending on their dimensions.
Drill the holes, picking up drills 1 mm thicker than the shank of the nozzle to be placed.
Deburr the bottom plane and mount 3 mm plywood on it. Screw a wooden bar to the end face for feather drills and mark the plastic for quick bit finding.
Making a peorized panel with your own hands
Soft panels for walls with their own hands
In order to save personal funds, some masters try to make the above products themselves, for this it is necessary to act according to the following algorithm:
- Purchased sheet metal thickness required, which must match the planned load. At retail outlets sell the metal thickness of one millimeter to 5-7 millimeters. Here it is important to keep in mind that the thicker the sheet, the higher its nominal weight, hence the fixing mechanism for fixing it to the wall must be reinforced;
- The marking of the future product. Here it is not necessary to know the exact location of hooks and brackets, as it is very difficult to predict. Many craftsmen, and in fact, first perform the installation of a metal sheet to the wall, and only then make holes in the right places;
Drilling a sheet
- Bend the edges of the sheet along the entire perimeter. This is necessary to remove sharp corners and give additional rigidity to the entire structure. Bend the metal can be on a special machine or by clamping the edge in a stationary vise. The height of the bend must match the thickness of the future bracket;
- On the resulting product is screwed wooden bars or a metal corner, which are inserted into the niche formed along the entire length of the sheet. It is this bar will be the basis for fixing the entire panel on the surface of the wall;
Installing the anchor
- Using anchor bolts through the holes drilled through in the timber, the panel is mounted to the wall. Due to the thickness of the wood, the peorized sheet will be detached from the surface by a few centimeters, which is enough to mount the fastening hooks;
- From thick-walled wire or remnants of sheet metal are bent supporting brackets, which will later be inserted into the holes;
- At the final stage, the entire assembled structure is painted with acrylic or alkyd enamel, including the load-bearing hooks.
After the panel is completely dry, it can be used, hang tools and other devices on the brackets, and when adding small cabinets to the surface to organize boxes for storing screws, bolts and other small items.
Of course, purchased at retail outlets peorized panels factory made have a more acceptable appearance, but their cost is much higher than to make such a pad yourself.
A table-top drill stand
Always have to change tips when working with a drill. It often happens that you put a drill somewhere, and later it is difficult to find. If you make a small frame with just four components, you can fit drill bits, punches, pencils, routers and other similar accessories.
For the top layer of the device is best suited light-colored plastic, which is well visible inscriptions, and neat holes in it is easier to make. For the middle part, choose a piece of particleboard or fiberboard with a thickness of 16 mm or more. Screw the two parts together and mark the location of the holes with an awl. Mark on a square grid with a side of 15 mm for the drills, and for other items, orient on the spot, depending on their size.
Drill the holes, selecting the drill bits 1 mm thicker than the shank of the attachment to be placed.
Clean the bottom plane of burrs and fix the 3 mm plywood on it. Screw a wooden bar on the end for the feather drill bits and label the plastic for a quick way to find the bits.
Organizer. holder for drills, screwdrivers, cutters, cutters
If you don’t have space to hang a wall-mounted product or want to have the necessary small tools at hand, you can always make a tabletop type organizer. It is no less convenient than the previous one.
To make such an organizer with your own hands, you will need:
- Wooden regular sanded and sanded stump at least 35 cm high.
- Drills of various diameters.
- Drill bit.
- Lacquer and paint (optional).
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Shelves for industrial tools
The industry today offers a fairly wide range of different types of racks and shelves for tools as well as other everyday needs. You can find compact suspended structures, although sometimes there are samples quite bulky, multilevel, rather reminiscent of open cabinets.
If you have a fairly large professional workshop, you need something more roomy, although the type of activity should be taken into account in any case. Т.е., choose based on the type of work you will be doing in your workshop.
In this article, we will not consider all the variety of shelves and racks as such, and we will focus on the tool shelves. Choosing a design, consider the type of tool, its size, quantity, weight.
The material of which the shelf will be made should be strong enough. For example, steel designs are most practical for the garage, but in workshops where household appliances are repaired, durability is not the primary requirement, since lighter and more compact tools are used.
These are only the most general points to consider when selecting an industrial design tool shelf. In order to fully meet all your requests, t.е., If you want to arrange the tools exactly as it will be convenient for you, the best design is a shelf for tools made by your own hands.
lines and boring
Place your tools in a logical order and mark the holes on the board. Next: start making holes with a small screwdriver and build up to your desired hole size. (I couldn’t resist putting it together without glue.)