How to properly spackle: tips from the professionals
Sat, read posts on zen and came across a post (I will not throw a link, because the advertisement will get this post) Which is called, putty without sanding. After reading this post, it caused me only a smile.
In it the author tells how people without experience, putty walls so that the sanding then did not have to. And everything is explained so that I have a question. The author, and you yourself.you know how to putty? Man without experience so-and-so just putty, normally would not be able to.Hands hurt from lack of experience. Plus the entire apartment will do in putty and himself will be all white.
A person who has never puttyed can’t do it again. Guys, don’t even bother. It is difficult, tedious and I say more than that it is not useful to you, I’ll tell you why?
It was a long time ago, and with experience, the desire to shorten the work begins to grow. To do it faster and with less dust.
We were doing an apartment and the apartment was divided in half with the women plasterers, because the apartment was big. They plastered one half, we plastered the other half. So when they plastered straight, they mopped up the plaster, right almost to the shine. With the phrase, and then it’s easier to putty.
Well, I thought with my partner and decided to do the same, because it’s faster, putty will lay less, and then putty faster. And since we had one bedroom that was already plastered without any plastering. It was customary that I do another room straight plaster, and my partner in the made room putty, so as not to sand.
So I made a plaster with almost a mirror shine in the next room, and my partner also putty in the other room.
It was my turn to putty, the plaster that had been lined, and what was my surprise when I started puttying. The putty wouldn’t go with the batter. It was coming right off after the trowel. If I putty simple plaster putty on 2 times, here we had to putty 4 times. Plus a coat to give.
We thought not to putty, but the contractor came and showed a sketch of the wallpaper. They’re light and translucent, which means we have to putty anyway, so there won’t be any gaps in the wallpaper. How I remembered the Russian language when I was puttying and I’ve bidden myself not to do it again.
But one thought, reassured, that now putty out like plaster without sanding, and this will win time. Done. And when the women were doing their half, somewhere disappeared. I went up to the contractor and said, I’m not puttying these walls. Well those broads never came out and we had to do everything. OH HOW WE WOULD HAVE PREPARED while puttying.
All right, ! Made without sanding. All the walls are primed, let them dry out and put up wallpaper. И. (passing of the object))
That’s glued wallpaper, glued, right on, good savings of glue. We put it up in one fell swoop. And while we were finishing small things, something bad started to happen at the site. Seams on the wallpaper in some places broke, we had to constantly moisten them and pulled them up. The wallpaper started to peel off, peeled off here, peeled off there. And we’re crawling, every day to clean up the mess, and we can’t understand why it’s so. All done perfectly, but no, the wallpaper comes off.
Our contractor noticed it, but at first did not pay attention, but the day before delivery and started to ask us how we prepared the walls?
Our contractor started out doing repairs himself and he had a lot of experience. So he knew what to do and how to do it.
We told him how we did everything honestly.
How did we get a kick out of it? I’ll remember it for the rest of my life. How he berated us for a long time, and then he explained. That he drove those broads out. Because I saw that they lick the plaster and when licking it loses its roughness and then puttying has nothing to cling to putty. That’s why the putty’s so bad. Putty said that you can not do without sanding. So no matter how you try to lick it, there is a human factor and form small irregularities that are sometimes impossible to see with the naked eye, but only to the touch. Plus, when you putty you lick the putty anyway, the roughness becomes a little and the wallpaper has less traction with the surface. That’s why they have a much better chance of falling off. Sanded to remove most of the fine irregularities and to give the walls a bond with the wallpaper. And you’ve got a big mouth on us.
We rented the apartment, but once a month we went and wallpapered it. until they quit.
By the way with a lot of experience. I decided to try to repeat the process. The result was the same.
So guys putty, do not get bogged down.
The technique of performing the work
Before you start sanding the walls, you need to check the readiness of the filler. it must be completely dry. You should also take care about the quality of lighting, then the work will be easier and faster.
Consider how to properly sand the base:
- If there are large protrusions on the wall, they must be removed with a spatula. Then you need to install a coarse abrasive on the beam and sand the putty in the direction to the right. This method will help you not to confuse and perform the processing of the entire surface, without missing areas.
- During sanding, you should not put much pressure on the bar and long sanding in one place. Perform such a procedure should be performed in a circular motion.
- If during sanding you noticed large pits on the basis, then they must be skipped, and after completing the entire procedure sealed with putty.
- When the main part of the surface will be sanded, you can move on to the corners and other hard-to-reach places. For such work, a sanding sponge with a beveled angle is used, which does not damage the base.
Preparation of plastered walls
The question of what to do after plastering the walls often arises, as everyone wants to make the room more comfortable for living. Before you begin to prepare the walls for finishing work, the plaster layer must be allowed to dry out.
For plaster to dry perfectly, you will have to wait at least thirty days. This will only work if:
You should not perform plastering and subsequent finishing work in the winter, because for better drying of the mixture layer on the walls in summer or late spring, you can simply open the windows. If there are temperature fluctuations, then the surface of the wall can collapse or a web of cracks can arise.
The same effect can be achieved if the plaster layer freezes or dries too quickly if the room temperature is artificially raised. There is no harm in using a professional dehumidifier, as it warms the room gradually and evenly.
Removal of beacons
When applying a layer of plaster mixture it is customary to use beacons that are made of stainless steel. After all the basic work has been successfully completed, these elements become useless, so they will have to be carefully removed so as not to damage the surface.
The problem is that galvanized beacons are still subject to corrosion processes, so they become rusty and spoil the plastered surface. If they are not removed from the wall in time, then it can go cracks of varying depths, as well as, completely fall off the applied layer of plaster mixture.
How to properly remove galvanized beacons:
- pull out the marks before the plaster is completely dry;
- Remove the beacons will have to be as carefully as possible;
- do not panic if cracks and chips appear;
- Small scratches and chips can be grouted as part of the restoration.
It is easy to remove small holes that are left after the beacons, using a quality paste putty. After the putty has been applied, the working surface should be brought to an ideal condition with coarse and fine sandpaper.
Choosing a finishing putty
After the plaster layer is thoroughly dried and the building beacons removed, builders think about what to do after plastering the walls. The next step can be confidently called a filler, because it is the filler in ninety percent of cases allows you to level the surface and protect it from the negative effects of natural precipitation or winds.
In order for it to hold perfectly on the wall, you will need to buy in a construction store a high-quality mixture for puttying. All the expensive and cheap, domestic and foreign, branded and no one-known finishing mixtures differ only in the substance of the binder type.
The most popular and demanded in Russia and the world putty on the basis of cement, which is combined with sand, lime or asbestos. To the positive sides of this mixture can be attributed:
- resistance to the influence of moisture;
- The ability to come into contact with the liquid for a long time;
- resistance to changes in critical air temperatures;
- ability to be easily applied to surfaces, even by beginners;
- acceptable cost;
- the ability to apply the thickest layer without peeling;
- ability to qualitatively mask chips and defects.
Almost all experts point out that cement putty mixes can perfectly tolerate corrosive processes, they are used in rooms with aggressive environment. Cement-based mixture can be used in external finishing of buildings, as it is resistant to moisture and wind.
The disadvantages of the composition are few, they include:
- susceptibility to shrinkage;
- appearance of cracks on the surface;
- drying in about 24-48 hours;
- the impossibility of applying the subsequent layer before the previous one is completely dry;
- problems with adhesion to materials of non-mineral type.
Everything will be fine when applied with a layer thickness of no more than 1.5 or 2 centimeters, as it will weigh a lot and will quickly detach from the wall or ceiling.
In the case of coating the work surface with gypsum putty, you can get a lot of positive aspects, but only if a high-quality, branded and safe material is selected. The main advantages of the material made on the basis of white gypsum, it is customary to include:
- no tendency to shrinkage;
- resistance to surface cracking;
- increased plasticity;
- ease of application of the finishing material;
- after primer can be diagnosed increased adhesion to the surfaces;
- Release the putty in a milky white shade;
- absence of pigments, allowing the mixture to be applied without gaps;
- The ability to perfect leveling;
- The ability to start the grouting procedure as soon as possible.
To the problematic sides of plaster on the basis of gypsum, which is applied to the walls and ceiling of any room, experts in the field of construction include fast hardening, as it is impossible to prepare the mixture in advance. The possibility of storing a package of gypsum mass dry away from the liquid, because it can look like lumps, because it quickly absorbs moisture. What to do after plastering walls with gypsum next, if it is afraid of water? Experts say that the surface will only have to be cleaned with a slightly damp sponge or soft rag.
You will have to spend a little more money to purchase the material, as plaster of gypsum type is inexpensive, but one layer will not be enough. The material is prohibited for outdoor use, as it cannot withstand moisture.
You can do repairs with a polymer putty compound, as this material has many positive aspects:
- easily tolerates a large amount of moisture;
- it is enough to apply one layer;
- has a high plasticity;
- has a high level of adhesion to all surfaces;
- dries quickly, but does not have the property of hardening outside the wall;
- easily withstands high or low temperatures;
- Can not absorb odors from the kitchen or toilet
- has a long service life;
- not be covered with cracks;
- is not subject to deformation.
What can be sanded walls?
It is important to use a mask during the sanding of walls to protect the respiratory system
First of all, you will need to acquire the necessary tools.
- different types of abrasive mesh or different grit sandpaper;
- grinding bar;
- sanding sponge;
- additional illumination;
- a trowel with a small working blade;
- Personal protective equipment.
Experienced finishers recommend scraping the walls:
But there are other cases where sanding can’t be avoided.
Grinding surfaces is not very complicated, but it is a time-consuming process that generates a lot of dust.
Sanding is carried out with sandpaper or a special abrasive mesh. What to choose depends on your preferences and wishes.
The advantage of abrasive mesh is its peorized structure, which makes it easy for all the dust to pass through the holes and the cloth will not quickly become clogged. The mesh is replaced after it is worn out, which immediately becomes noticeable by external signs. As a result of wear and tear, the mesh may tear and not perform the task properly.
Dusting very high walls after repairs
In case there is a need to clean up a room with high walls, one of the best options in this case will be a brush with a long handle. You can also use a mop, using a dry or damp cloth if necessary.
In order to facilitate the task of dedusting high walls, it is recommended to make thorough preliminary preparation. This means that the walls should be tightly covered, and under a layer of film moistened to facilitate the collection of dust.
How to properly sand without dust?
Step by step instructions
The sanding process should take place in several stages:
- After puttying, inspect the surface for minor defects. The wall must be free of irregularities, voids, undried areas, deformations that may interfere with the work.
- Before sanding, wear all protective gear: gloves, goggles, sturdy clothing.
- Turn on the lights if it’s cloudy outside. If the day is clear, then the curtains are removed from the windows to make brighter lighting in the workroom.
- Take a spatula of the appropriate size, they mow all the large bumps, chips, available on the surface. Perform the work as thoroughly as possible, so that you don’t have to spend extra effort on it later.
- First, an initial sanding is performed to understand the boundaries of the treatment area, the depth of the filling of shallow joints. Work with the emery from above, but then gradually move downwards in smooth movements and complete the stage of treatment.
In what cases alignment will not be necessary?
Smoothing walls with sandpaper should always be performed. But there are small exceptions that justify not doing it. For example:
- When a new layer of plaster is planned to be put on top of the plastered layer. This is possible in heated garages, warehouses, utility rooms, where the appearance of the walls is not important.
- Do not sand surfaces, which have been treated with all-purpose products. These mixtures are self-laid on the walls, distributed as evenly as possible.
- If the treated surfaces will be covered with wallpaper or interesting decorative material, the puttying and sanding can also be skipped.
- Smoothing is not necessary for surfaces that will be coated with paints with visual effects. For example, when superimposing a picture in the form of a natural landscape. Special coating effect in the form of a thin coat of paint filler completely fills in the dents, small irregularities, so no additional treatment with sanding tools is required.
Substrate sanding after puttying is necessary in almost 90% of cases. This makes the wall visually smooth, beautiful and even. Surfaces treated in this way look great, suitable for further processing. for example, for painting, tiling or paneling.
Useful hints for sanding walls after puttying
The puttying process, no matter how well done, does not produce a perfectly flat surface. Trowel marks, transitions between layers, small rough spots, bumps and hollows are left on the wall.
You can not do without sanding the surface. Grinding is the final step to prepare the surface for the final finish.
Perform sanding after putty can anyone with the desire, patience and perseverance. The main thing is to choose the right tools, consumables and devices, know the technology to perform the work.
Sanding is performed by dry or wet method. Wet sanding is appropriate for plasterboard, plastered walls under the rule. The main advantage of wet sanding in the relative purity of the process. You do not have to worry about the dust, which is necessarily present in the dry sanding. The process of subsequent cleaning is forgiven.
Dry sanding is used more often in home repairs.
Sanding after puttying is carried out not earlier than 24 hours after applying a layer of putty.
Tips for choosing tools, abrasives and appliances
Without the right tools and equipment qualitatively perform sanding walls after puttying will not work.
sandpaper and sanding mesh; sanding sponge with edges cut at an angle, which allows you to sand in hard-to-reach places.
Immediately noticed, the sanding mesh is not clogged in the process of dust, but is somewhat more expensive than sandpaper.
It is necessary to buy a sanding block or mandrel for fixing sandpaper or sanding mesh. This tool is correctly called a hand sanding machine.
Sanding paper has a different grit and it is important for sanding walls and ceilings for painting. Numbers 20 to 220 indicate a coarse-grained material, the numbers 250-2500 correspond to the fine-grained sandpaper.
From the devices you will need a stepladder, a lamp or spotlight, a wide spatula. Suitable and a wide table or trestle, if their height allows you to work on the ceiling.
To ensure safety when sanding be sure to buy protective goggles, mask or respirator, cap, beret or scarf.
Let us go on to the actual process of sanding the surface after puttying.
Wall and ceiling sanding after filling is performed in a well-lit, ventilated room on a completely dry surface.
Technology for sanding walls
In the first step using a trowel go over the entire surface of the wall. Remove bumps and protrusions of any kind. If you notice large gaps or holes, fill them with putty, do not try to remove them with sanding.
Grind only when the surface is completely dry.
You should install quality lighting on one side at an angle to the surface. Do not change its position during the entire sanding cycle.
The second step involves the treatment of the surface with coarse sandpaper or a sanding mesh. Consumables are fastened on the sanding block.
Sanding the surface is carried out from top to bottom, treating small areas with rotary movements. The maximum size of the area to be sanded must not exceed 1 m x 1 m.
It is best to sand from top to bottom in strips no wider than 1 m. When sanding, use a circular motion, but also use an up-down or left-right motion.
Do not press the tool hard and do not sand in one place for a long time. You can wipe off the entire putty layer.
Finishing sanding should be done with less sweep and less pressure on the tool.
Sand hard-to-reach places with sanding pad or old-fashioned sanding method, folded in several layers of sandpaper.
Never sand corners and hard-to-reach places with a sanding machine. You will only damage the surface.
Choose the correct grit size of the material. The right emery should not leave deep scratches on plaster.
If the abrasive material leaves scratches, choose a finer sandpaper. Under wallpaper allowed on the sanded surface after puttying minor scratches. But for painting the surface of the walls must be absolutely flat. Read how to prepare the wall for painting.
The sanding process is labor-intensive and requires a lot of effort to perform. It can be mechanized, if you use a special grinder. Available sanders include the connection of a vacuum cleaner, which makes the sanding process virtually dust-free.
Do not use belt sander. They are suitable for work on wood. Eccentric or orbital grinder is suitable.
Although the use of a grinder speeds up the process of grinding, not having special skills to get a high-quality polished surface to novice builder is very difficult.
You should not only feel the tool, but also adjust the pressure of the tool on the ground plane. And such a tool costs quite a bit.