Paint remover brush on the drill

Chisels for chisels and their purpose

Structurally, chisel head called a chisel for peorator does not differ from the metalworker’s tool. The main difference is the shank and the elongated shape of the working part. The main purpose of such a device is to break off concrete, brick, cinder block. During operation, the sharp part of the chisel becomes blunt, so it must be sharpened on an emery wheel.

The chisel is also used to remove plaster and tile from the wall, as well as ceramic tiles from the floor. Chisels have different thickness of the working part, as well as length, which positively affects the convenience of working with a tool with such attachments. The most popular tools are chisels with a working length of 25 cm and a thickness of 20 mm. They are available for sds max and sds plus chucks.

What kind of nozzle is needed to remove paint from the walls

Virtually all masters would agree that it is much easier to build something new than to repair the old, because it comes to get rid of the old trim, which takes strength and extra time. So, to prepare the surface in order to carry out painting work, you will not be superfluous nozzle for paint removal from the walls, which can be actuated by an angle grinder, drill, peorator or simply by hand.

Below we will talk in detail about these devices, which you can buy in a store or do yourself, and still, as an additional material, watch a video on this post.

Iron brush as an attachment to an angle grinder to remove paint


Paint remover is very popular in Russia, Belarus, Ukraine, as well as other CIS countries. It was originally used by folk craftsmen-experts. Later they started to manufacture this simple and effective device in factory conditions. The invention went into the masses.

The paint stripper has many advantages over other methods:

  • Price. Easy and convenient attachment is much cheaper than any professional drill brush or gritter.
  • No dust. often than not, professional or hobbyist paint strippers work on the principle of a sandpaper or grater. Exfoliates paint from walls. It generates a huge amount of finely abrasive dust in the room. The paint stripper works on a different principle. It knocks big paint fragments off the wall without creating a lot of dust and dirt.
  • Speed of operation. Using the paint stripper it is possible to work up to 4 sq. km. m of surface in an hour.
  • Versatility. The nozzle is suitable for processing virtually all surfaces: concrete, wood, metal, cinder block, sandstone.
  • Environmental friendliness. When working with a paint stripper no toxic emissions from polymers are formed, as is the case when dismantling paint with an industrial hair dryer or metal brush.
  • Careful handling of electrical and oil systems. The nozzle does not interfere with the wiring hidden in the walls. It allows you to neatly bypass all communications and cables.

Thanks to these advantages, the paint stripper has already been bought by thousands of people. Many people take several sets at once to carry out work throughout the house or apartment.

For recommendations on how to paint the walls in the bathroom, see the article Painting Bathroom Walls.

How to properly plaster walls see the source Plastering walls on the beams with their own hands.

Requirements for the drill

It is important to choose a power tool with the recommended parameters, otherwise the drill will quickly break down:

  • Reverse action. This will allow you to work in different conditions.
  • The presence of an impact mode. As a rule, these drills are equipped with a more powerful chuck with high performance.
  • The presence of a speed regulator. For walls with one coat of paint low speed is suitable, for old coated walls or with several coats. high speed.

The drill with the specified characteristics will not break and will allow you to work almost any surface.

How to grind a wooden surface, shown in

When working, it is important to hold the sanding pad on the drill for wood with respect to the surface. For example, if the plate nozzle is not at a right angle, its edges will easily spoil the surface. To understand the principle of operation, it is worth practicing in advance to hold the tool correctly.

  • The worker holds the drill in his hands and works as with an ordinary tool. This is a simpler and more familiar method, but it has disadvantages. Holding the drill for a long time can be tiring. It is also important to monitor its position and not to tilt. This way grind large surfaces: walls, floor, ceiling, large furniture, car.
  • The drill is fixed on the table stationary, and the object is brought to it. This method can achieve high quality sanding, but it can only be used on small objects that can be held in the hands.
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Remove old paint from the walls quickly will help attachment to the drill with his hands

When we ordered the repair of the bathroom and toilet. closet. closet). a room for the performance of natural needs (urination, defecation and antiperistalsis) in khrushchevka, the workers were faced with a difficult problem. Removal of old stained paint is a generic name for a group of colored paints intended for direct use in a particular area of life on concrete walls. not an easy thing to do.

It used to be commonplace to paint walls with oil paint, not only in the bathroom and toilet, but also in the kitchen. In the kitchen, we did the repairs themselves and did not remove the paint, and just cleaned of dust and glued washable wallpaper type of construction finishing materials for lining walls and ceilings inside the premises. Wallpaper is still hanging on (4 years have passed).

You can remove paint with an axe, a spatula. But the process can take a long time. The result is a headache of noise not only for the owners, those who are renovating, but also the neighbors.

How to speed up the process and clean the walls from paint faster? There is a good way to do it.

Chimney cleaner: how to make a chimney sweep tool with your own hands

The furnace heating not only does not give up positions, but also experiences its second birth. For this reason the questions of correct operation and maintenance of solid fuel units are as acute as they were a few centuries ago. With how to heat the stove, and what is the best wood to use, private homeowners have no difficulty. Problems begin when the draft fails and the smoke begins to flow indoors. And the reason is the chimney clogged with soot and smoke. Chimney sweeper today is problematic to find, so the maintenance of the chimney will have to carry out on their own. All you need for this is a chimney sweep, which you can make with your own hands.

What causes chimney clogs

The advantages of furnace heating, such as cost-effectiveness, autonomy and the ability to create a special, homely atmosphere, can not be surpassed by any modern heating device. Thanks to this, stoves and fireplaces are still widely used in rural and urban areas. However, the use of solid fuel has many disadvantages, one of which is the need for regular cleaning of chimneys. And you can significantly reduce the frequency of their maintenance, if you know where so much soot and soot comes from.

Deposits in the furnace chimney can completely block the chimney’s exit duct

So, the main factors that contribute to chimney clogging are:

  • Burning debris that consists of high-carbon materials (all types of plastic, polyethylene, Styrofoam, cardboard, etc. д.);
  • the use of wet firewood;
  • disruption in the operation of the heater;
  • Stoking with wood that contains a lot of resin (pine, spruce, fir, etc. д.);
  • seldom remove ash from furnace working chambers;
  • fuel supply failure;
  • ingress of foreign debris.

In addition, the rapid contamination of the chimney can provoke a high roughness of the walls of the gas ducts and their improper configuration. For this reason, it is better to entrust the construction of the furnace to an experienced craftsman.

Hazards of soot buildup

It is impossible not to notice problems with the chimney. The following signs will most often indicate that this is the case:

All of these factors indicate that the chimney is so badly clogged that there is only a narrow hole left for the exhaust of combustion products. The use of the heater in such conditions is prohibited, because it often leads to tragic consequences:

  • Reduced cross-section of the flue ducts may provoke reverse draught, and therefore carbon monoxide may be smoky in the room;
  • Soot deposits may catch fire and fly out of the chimney and create a fire hazard.

Soot buildup in a furnace chimney can lead to a fire

If the soot is not removed in time, its deposition will become avalanche-like, because the fuel combustion mode is disturbed, and together with the solids unburned tarry discharge and moisture are deposited on the walls of the chimney.

Devices for chimney cleaning

To remove deposits from the chimney can be chemical and mechanical. The first involves burning in the oven substances, combustion products of which soften the soot deposits and contribute to their combustion and removal by natural means. The second is to remove soot from the walls of the chimney with various scrapers, brushes, etc. д.

Chemical products for cleaning the chimney can do without mechanical devices, but they are quite expensive

Practice shows that mechanical cleaning is best accomplished with a rigid broom, such as is used to wash dishes with a narrow neck. A variety of materials will be suitable for the manufacture of such a tool:

  • steel rope;
  • plastic bottles
  • Cut lengths of steel wire;
  • thick fishing line or plastic rods;
  • springs;
  • thick rubber;
  • A metal chain or strong rope;
  • a variety of weights and sinkers.

The material you choose for the stovepipe cleaner depends on how tough the soot deposits are to be removed. For regularly serviced chimneys made of steel or asbestos cement pipes the tool with soft bristles is suitable, while brick flues with a long-term deposits of soot can be cleaned only with a wire brush. It is best to have several devices of varying degrees of rigidity in your arsenal, or make one combined tool.

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How to make a stovepipe tool

Before you start making a device for removing sediment, you need to think about its design and dimensions. This should take into account:

Based on the input data, make conclusions about the length of the cable, the weight of the load, the size of the ruff and its stiffness.

Construction of a mechanical soot abatement device

The length of the rope or cord used to hold the broom, take with 2-2.5 meters. This will allow you to hold the device more firmly in his hands, and if necessary to make a loop around the chimney so as not to drop the tool into the chimney. Any kind of weight can be used as a weight, from a specially cast lead block to some heavy nut or a worn-out car part.

Making a plastic rake

A budget brush to remove soot from the furnace chimney can easily be made from improvised means. To make a plastic brush you will need:

  • a broom made of polypropylene rods;
  • plumbing rope of a needed length
  • A metal rod with a diameter of 8 mm and an eyelet;
  • Nut with a diameter of 8 mm with an eyelet;
  • a washer with a diameter of at least 50 mm with a hole of 8 mm;
  • 2 carabiners;
  • weight at 0.5-2 kg.

If you can not find a stud and a nut with eyes, do not despair. you can use an ordinary bolt. The loops for attaching the rope and weight can be made from steel wire.

Materials you need to make a plastic pipe cleaner

The diameter of the plastic broom should be slightly larger than the cross section of the chimney. This will provide increased pressure of the individual rods on the walls of the furnace pipe and increase the rate of cleaning.

  • You can cut or unscrew the stem from a synthetic broom, because you won’t need it later on. To make it more convenient to work, the remaining part is clamped in a vise.
  • The bristles of a round broom are bent out to the sides. To make the material more pliable, the brush is dipped in boiling water or heated with a construction hair dryer.

The twigs of the plastic broom need to be straightened out

The pin allows to fix the bristles in the required position

A nut with an eyelet allows you not only to fix the bars of the ruff, but also to attach a load and a rope to it

Excessively long rods should be trimmed

Chimney brush can be made with your own hands

In addition to synthetic broom, not a bad material for making a soft brush are plastic containers from under carbonated water. To make a “puffy” brush, you will need 5-6 such vessels and a sharp knife. It is necessary to cut off the bottom of all the bottles, and dissolve the walls into strips 3 to 10 mm wide. After that, in all but one vessel, cut off the neck, obtaining an opening slightly larger than the diameter of the neck. Assembly in a single structure is performed by putting the parts on the remaining threaded part and securing them with the cover. After that, make a drill under the stud and attach the ruff to the rope and the weight in the way described above.

To make the bristles from a plastic bottle more rigid, they are heated with a burner or a construction hair dryer. The same method can also be used to give the brush the desired shape.

How to make a brush out of metal

You can use strips of steel wire (rope) or use a wire brush for an angle grinder to make metal cleaning tools. In the latter case, the device for the angle grinder is simply put on a rope with a weight and fastened with a wire. If the use of the working tool is not acceptable to you for its intended purpose, then you can make a metal brush with your own hands. To do this you will need:

  • Coil of steel wire Ø1-2 mm or rope up to 5 mm in diameter;
  • pin or M8 bolt 6-8 cm long;
  • M8 lug nuts;
  • washers with a diameter of at least 50 mm with an inner hole Ø8 mm;
  • pliers;
  • hammer;
  • chisel;
  • wrenches.

Steel wire is the base of the homemade metal brush

The technology of making a metal brush is not complicated:

    The metal wire is cut into pieces, the diameter of which is at least 80% of the cross-section of the chimney. The easiest way to do this is with pliers. If a steel cable is used, then instead of pliers it is better to use a hammer and chisel, with which the material can be easily chopped into pieces of the desired length.

The length of the individual bristles should be up to 80% of the chimney diameter

The metal bristles should be evenly positioned along the contour of the future brush

For additional fixation the metal bars can be additionally fixed by welding.

The simplicity of this method makes it extremely popular among home masters. And at the same time there is another very interesting tool that combines a brush to remove soot and a load at the same time. In addition to the above described tools and materials for its manufacture, you will need:

  • steel tube with a diameter of more than 50 mm;
  • electric drill;
  • High-carbon steel core;
  • Metal drill bit, the diameter of which corresponds to the cross-section of the wire or wire rope;
  • sand-cement mortar.
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To make a brush, just as in the previous case, prepare the necessary number of flexible elements. Next act as follows:

  • In the walls of the steel pipe make through holes. On the accuracy of this work and the step between the drills depends on the density and uniformity of the bristles, so this step should be taken as responsibly as possible.
  • Wire elements are inserted into the holes, placing their edges symmetrically in relation to the pipe.
  • A steel bar is placed in the center, to which a restraining rope will be attached in the future.
  • The inner surface of the pipe is filled with mortar, which will ensure the fixation of the flexible elements and make the device quite heavy.
paint, remover, brush, drill

The tool can be used only after the cement-sand mixture has set and gained the necessary strength.

What you need to know before you put a tool down the chimney

The chimney should not be cleaned at the end of the heating season, but at the beginning of the season. This will allow you to have complete confidence that there is no bird’s nest, cobwebs and leaves or other debris in the chimney. The best time for this is one of the warm and windless days at the beginning of autumn.

When cleaning the chimney, you should take care of proper equipment and insurance

Before putting on the chimney sweep suit and starting maintenance of the chimney, close all the shutters and doors of the stove. Soot is the smallest particles that can seep into any cracks and contaminate the room and objects that are in it. If the chimney with an open firebox is to be serviced, it is sealed with polyethylene film and duct tape.

The process of cleaning the chimney is not difficult. The brush is repeatedly lowered into the chimney, knocking deposits off the walls. To increase the effect, alternate reciprocating movements with twisting of the wire in different directions. The soot will then be poured off downwards. It can be removed through the inspection hatch with a dustpan, poker and broom.

There are situations when the device encounters an insurmountable obstacle midway. It can be any volumetric object. any rag, bird’s nest or a piece of brick that has fallen out of the masonry. In this case the ruff is unhooked and the formed blockage is knocked out with the help of only one weight taking into account that the plug will fall into the furnace. Then the brush is returned to its place and the cleaning process is resumed.

Regular sweeping of the soot is necessary even in places where the latest solid fuel equipment is used. A brush that you can make with your own hands will cope with even the most stubborn deposits with dignity. It is important not to put off the work of cleaning the chimney for a long time. it depends not only on the thermal efficiency and efficiency of the furnace, but also the safety of your family.

paint, remover, brush, drill

Remove Rust & Paint From Drill Machine

Nozzle shapes

No matter how different the brushes are, they are all circular. In terms of shape drill brushes have a fairly wide range.

  • Radial, flat. for grinding metal, cleaning in hard-to-reach places, for example in pipes.
  • Plate brush. really reminds a plate in shape. Available in plastic or rubber with sandpaper glued on for scraping, polishing or grinding. To be able to hold the drill strictly above the surface to be treated, such a nozzle is mounted on a pin with an adjustable angle of attachment.
  • Cylindrical (brushes). used for narrow pipes in small and medium sized areas. These conical bits are also used for grinding or polishing jewelry or other precision work.
  • Disc (circular, oval). flat metal nozzles for processing large areas in repair or construction. Twisted steel filaments are able to strip weld joints (seams and joints), polish surfaces thoroughly. The bristles have a direction from the center to the edge of the disc.
  • Cup (brush) brushes. they have a bowl with different diameters, in which a very hard steel wire is pressed. can be of different lengths. or a nylon pile filled with melted plastic. These brushes are used for cleaning scale, removing paint from surfaces, removing concrete flux. irregularities, and for brushing wood.
  • Drum. representing a cylinder with attached sandpaper for polishing iron surfaces. And also it can be foam rubber (felt), microfiber for more delicate processing of wood, glass, metal.
  • Fan (lamellar) brushes are discs with attached plates of sandpaper arranged perpendicular to the surface. Such an abrasive nozzle is convenient to clean and grind surfaces of different geometries, as it is able to change its own shape when the drill is running.
  • Petal ones are cylinders to which a metal abrasive pile is attached. They are used for removing paint, rust, burrs, polishing, cleaning, brushing.
  • Tapered brushes are a cross between a disc brush and a cup brush. Designed to remove heavy dirt, paint, scale, burrs.

All these devices, designed for scraping, sanding and having a strong impact on the surface through a hard nozzle, were called kratsovka or cord brush (cordbrush).

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