Making a knife out of a saw. Grinding the blade

Knife from a two-handed wood saw with his own hands. How to make a saw blade with your own hands?

Tools Raw materials for making a homemade knife can be any new or old cutting piece of hardened steel. As a blank, it is better to use metal cutting discs, blades of hand and pendulum saws. Not a bad option is an old chainsaw. From its chain you can forge and hone a blade, in its quality and appearance not inferior to the famous Damascus steel.

In order to make a knife with your own hands, you will need the following equipment and materials:

  • angle grinder;
  • sharpening machine;
  • electric drill;
  • ruler;
  • hammer;
  • sandpaper;
  • sharpening stones;
  • files;
  • core;
  • epoxy glue;
  • copper wire;
  • marker;
  • bucket of water.

Separately you should think about the handle. Finished product should be easy to hold in a hand.

To make a handle it is better to use:

The raw material for the handle must be in one piece, without traces of cracks, rot and other defects.

Rules of work with metal

To make the blade strong and resilient it is necessary to follow the rules of metalwork during the manufacturing process. They are as follows:

  • Blanks must have no visible and latent damages. Before making the knife, the workpieces must be inspected and punched. The solid part rings out and the defective part is muffled.
  • When designing the shape of the blade, corners should be avoided. The steel can break in such places. All transitions must be smooth, without jagged edges. The cuts of the butt, hilt and blade guard must be ground at right angles.
  • When sawing and sharpening do not overheat the steel. It results in lower strength. An overheated blade becomes brittle or soft. During machining, the workpiece must be constantly cooled by immersing it completely in a bucket of cold water.
  • When making a saw blade, remember that the product has already gone through a hardening cycle. Fabricated saws are adapted to work with the hardest alloys. If you do not overheat the blade during turning and finishing, you do not have to harden it.

The shank of the blade must not be made too thin. It is on this part of the product will have the greatest load.

Handling methods

For a blade to be strong and tight, the rules for handling iron must be adhered to during its creation.

The semi-finished workpiece should be free of noticeable and unspectacular defects. Workpieces should be inspected and punched before proceeding. A solid piece sounds resonant and a defective piece sounds muffled.

Circular disc for knife making.

Angles must be avoided when creating the design and drawing of the cutting component configuration. In such areas the steel is capable of fracture. Transitions must be made smooth, without sharp bends. The bevels of the blade, the blade guard and the handle should be filed down at an angle of 90 degrees.

The metal must not be allowed to overheat during cutting and machining. This will lead to a reduction in strength. An “overheated” blade becomes brittle or soft. During machining, you should regularly cool the workpiece by plunging it completely into a container of cold water.

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When making a knife from a circular saw blade, remember that this element has already been hardened. Factory saws are designed to work with tough alloys. If the product is not too hot during milling and processing it does not need to be hardened.

Materials and tools

To make a homemade knife, you will need the following equipment:

  • Woodworking machine. If you do not have one, you can use an electric jigsaw to pre-cut the handle. For the final sanding use sandpaper of different grit sizes.
  • Nails or preferably copper wire for rivets.
  • Wood.
  • Grinding and sharpening machine. In its absence, you can use an angle grinder, a peorator, a high-power drill. In addition, you need nozzles or circles with which to do these operations. One of these tools should be rigidly fixed, and then perform the work.
  • Files with different types of notches.
  • Marker.
  • Brass plate and bar, if the handle will not be riveted.
  • Epoxy glue.

Knives should have a comfortable handle. The most suitable material for it is wood. The most often used are birch or oak blocks. These species are the hardest, less susceptible to moisture during prolonged use. They are pleasant to the touch and have a nice texture. Since the knife handle does not require a large amount of starting material, you can use 1 parquet board, a scrap of board or bar for this purpose. It is important that the wooden workpiece is not damaged, cracked and contains no chips and other defects.

After the blade has been sufficiently calcined, it is necessary to cool it.

In order to make a knife, it is necessary to use certain grades of steel. It should be remembered that the way the metal has been technologically hardened depends on its characteristics. For example, as hardness increases, so does the brittleness of metal products. Steel grades Р6М5 or Р3М3Ф2 are suitable for the knife. In this case a metal thickness of 2 mm will be quite enough.

The strength of a homemade knife does not depend on the thickness of the metal. It is influenced by its geometric dimensions: length, width, shape of the blade and the escapement. With the right choice of these components and careful processing of the metal, an excellent blade is guaranteed. These grades of steel are used in the manufacture of discs, blades, tools such as circular saws.

Choosing a circular saw blade for slitting wood

You can get comprehensive information about the discs only at a specialized store. Here, in contrast to markets and small retailers, detailed catalogs are available for the product.

A careful reading of the information on the blade itself also helps. The material that can be handled by the blade is indicated by symbols, and the cutting direction is indicated by an arrow (lengthwise or crosswise). Always check the maximum cutting speed in rpm and in many cases the tooth pitch. Negative angle is marked as “neg”, positive angle as “pos”. The number in front is the index in degrees. A circular saw or mitre saw is used to show the function of the blade at a glance.

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You can even visually assess the quality of the blade by inspecting its surface. If the blunt teeth can be repaired, a weak body is an irreparable defect. Carefully examine the quality of the sanding.

A good specimen has grinding circles diverging from the center to the periphery. They indicate that after stamping, the circle was specially calibrated, ground and finished.

Cheap circular saw blades are not subjected to individual refinement. The best way to grind a complete plate is to grind a whole plate. It is clear that the first piece is better balanced, the metal stress during sawing will be evenly distributed. Resin and wood shavings adhere strongly to the roughly ground, rough disk, seriously interfering with the work.

Expensive saw blades have laser inscriptions, which guarantee their preservation throughout their service life. The marking comes in handy not only at the time of purchase, but also for sharpening and operation.

Good hardening rules

There are a few more simple rules that allow you to make the hardening of the knife at home as good as possible.

  • Before proceeding to the surface or deep hardening of a knife made of a particular brand of steel, you can pick up the modes of performance of such technological operation, using plates made of the same material. Use the first plate to find the desired heating temperature more accurately. To do this, the metal plate must be heated unevenly: one part. to the maximum temperature, the second. to the minimum. Then the heated plate is dipped into water or oil and, after it has cooled down completely, clamped in a vise, broken and checked for metal fracture. The qualitatively hardened metal, if the temperature regime was selected correctly, should have a coarse-grained structure.
  • The next stage of experimentation with metal plates is the selection of the optimal cooling medium. Using a variety of cooling media (water, oil, liquid lead, etc.).), harden the plate until it breaks at a 30° deviation when clamped in a vise. After that it is necessary to perform tempering of the plate, also selecting different cooling environments and temperature regimes. As a result of such operation you should achieve that the plate, clamped in a vise, breaks at an angle of 45°.
  • To avoid surface cracks on the blade of the hardened knife it is necessary to anneal the product beforehand. When carrying out such a technological operation, for which it is desirable to use a muffle stove with a temperature regulator, the following rules should be followed: heating the blade as long as possible, slowly and evenly.

Following these simple recommendations you will be able to harden the knife correctly even at home, and as a result you will get a strong and durable tool with excellent cutting properties.

Block: 4/4 | Number of characters: 1933

Shaping the cutting edge

Before you can begin to form the cutting edge, you must do some preparatory work. It consists in marking the edge of the workpiece. The marking is placed exactly in the center and serves as a guide for making a symmetrical descent.

For this purpose, a marker is painted over the edge that will be cutting and, using a drill equal in thickness to the workpiece, a marking is scratched out. The drill bit is tapered. Therefore, if you place the drill bit and the workpiece on the same plane, the tip of the drill bit will be exactly in the middle.

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Having made a straight flush to the middle of the thickness of the workpiece, the knife is turned over, and then make the same flush on the reverse side. Using such a simple device, you can easily form an even blade.

Making a blade from a blade

Making a knife

If the blade is big and not too worn out it can be used to make several blades for different purposes. The effort and time are well worth it.

A circular saw blade is made with your own hands in this sequence:

  • A template is attached to the blade, and the contours of the blade are drawn. Scratches or dotted lines are drawn on top of the marker with a punch. That way the pattern will not rub off when sawing the workpiece and adjusting it to the desired shape.
  • Blanks are sawn from the circular saw blade. It is better to use an angle grinder with a disc for metal. Leave 2mm of reserve from the outline. This is necessary in order to remove the material burned by the angle grinder. If you do not have an angle grinder at hand, you can grind the workpiece with a vice, hammer, and chisel or hacksaw.
  • Everything superfluous is chipped off on the sharpening machine. This process takes a long time, so as not to over-harden the steel. To prevent this, the workpiece is regularly lowered in water until it cools down.
  • The blade is marked. Here you need to be careful to keep the contour of the knife, not to burn it and maintain the angle of 20º.
  • All straight edges are smoothed. This is done conveniently by placing the workpiece against the side of the sharpening wheel. Rounding the transitions.
  • Part is deburred. Grinding and polishing the blade. Several interchangeable wheels are used on the sharpening machine.

Separate mention should be made of how the handle is made. If wood is used, a solid piece is taken, in which a longitudinal cut and through holes are made. After that the piece is slid on the blade, and the holes for fasteners are marked in it. Fixing of the handle on the blade is made with rivets or bolts with nuts. In the case of the bolted connection, the metal studs are sunk into the wood and poured with epoxy glue.

When the handle is assembled from plastic, 2 overlays are used, which must be symmetrical. To make the knife original, the plastic overlays are painted on the inside. Cavities can be made in the overlays to be filled with jewelry, non-ferrous and precious metal items, small compasses and photographs.

After attaching to the blade, the handles are ground until they are the desired shape and smoothness.

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