Key for disassembling Bosch common rail injectors

Do I Refurbish Nozzles? Restore! Except in one case

Fortunately, new injectors (Common Rail, as well as pump injectors) are much cheaper not only in authorized services, but also in the spare parts stores since they are installed in the first series of new generation cars. But still everyone has a desire to save money.

The alternative to buying is to repair and rebuild them. Comprehensive injector repair can not be done for a penny, but the restored part should not differ from the parameters of a new injector. Depending on the type of failure, the price for repair of the injector varies from 1000 to 14000 In turn, the repair work Denso always requires replacement parts, and the fee for repairs is fixed.

There is NO sense in reconstructing injectors, if they have worked for 150,000-200,000 TEARS or more. km. In this case it is better to replace them with new ones.

Under the pressure of circumstances

At first sight the modern diesel fuel injection pump is frightening and complicated. But compared with an injector it is much easier. both structurally and for repair. It can be disassembled and assembled without using a lot of special tools. However, no one cancelled the requirement of cleanliness in the repair shop, although no sterile room is required for HPF no longer, as is required for nozzles.

Input diagnostics of the fuel injection pump is carried out on the bench: the pump performance and operation of its metering unit in various modes are checked.

The pool of available repair parts depends on the construction of fuel injection. Nowadays, mainly Bosch pumps of the last two generations are used in our country for passenger cars: CP3 and CP4.

The CP3 pump appeared in the early 2000s. Its main construction feature is the impossibility of separate replacement of plunger pairs, because their liners are ground directly in the pump housing. If the ram and plug are damaged, repair is not economically feasible. a complete unit must be replaced and that is not available as a replacement part. One of the reasons is high price. But all other Cp3 components are freely available (separately): shaft, bearings, seals, integrated booster pump and metering unit. And it’s pretty easy to replace them.

The latest generation CP4 pump was introduced in 2010. Any part of it can be upgraded. Plunger units are built into the housing and are not difficult to replace. But the average consumer can freely buy the dosing block for this pump, other components are supplied only to authorized technical centers “Bosch Diesel Service. And they are tied to databases and technical repair information.

The CP3 and CP4 have no real weak points; each part wears more or less evenly when operated correctly. That is why the list of repair operations and replacement parts is made individually in each case. according to the results of defectoscopy. In addition to disposable elements (e.g. seals), it is advisable to renew the bearings and their thrust rings by default.

In the case of the fuel injection pump, the first thing that is surrendered is mainly the attachment, in particular the metering unit. It can be replaced in a usual service, if you keep at least some elementary cleanliness. Because if there is dirt inside the valve when removing the old block and installing the new one, it may finish this expensive unit in a moment.

Alas, the required tightening torque of the booster pump built into the fuel injection pump is often not observed by an ordinary repairman. As a result, it may be skewed, and then its gear starts to contact the wall of the housing. and metal chips, which in that case are sure to be formed, are scattered all over the fuel system.

After repairing HPF is put on the bench again to conduct output control according to the full test plan.

Common-Rail injector repair tool

Wrench with teeth for mounting/dismounting of DELPHI truck injectors nut.


Wrench for removing nut in electronic part of Denso injectors

Bosch injector extractor.thread M17x1 and outside. thread M27x1

Washer holder set for grinding

Clamp for disassembly and assembly of Common-Rail injectors and injector pump

Fixture for installation of 7.5mm paronite ring, M17x1mm

Installation aid for paronite ring 7,5mm, M18x0,75mm

Installation aid for paranite ring 6.5 mm, M18 x 0.75 mm

Wrench (10-13) for assembling/disassembling of nut for multiplier nozzle of Bosch CR injectors

Wrench 10-17 for mounting/dismounting of multiplier nut for Bosch CR injectors

Wrench for mounting/dismounting the nut in the electronic part of Bosch CR injectors

Wrench for assembly/disassembly of nut for electronic part of Bosch CR injectors

Wrenches for removing the nut in the electronic part of Bosch injectors

Wrench for assembly/disassembly of nut for CRIN injectors on trucks

Strupple for pressing out and pressing in the pins of the CR piezo Bosch injector valve core

Key for disassembling Bosch common rail injectors

CONTACTS: 38 044-360-11-48 38 050-598-74-90 38 094-92-48-148 38 093-933-00-30 38 098-415-60-60 e-mail:

Professional set of special tools for work with injectors of common rail systems by method of disassembly.

If you are engaged or going to be engaged in repair of common rail injectors it will be extremely difficult to do without such set of specialized devices. It is desirable to buy it together with the stand for work with common rail injectors and other necessary tools and components for such purposes.

Work with this set is considered on courses of training of diagnosticians of common rail systems

Key for loosening of armature valve nut for Bosch common rail injectors This key is available separately from the set

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Repair of Common injectors and common rail injectors Lugansk 3 350-450

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Thursday, July 25, 2019.


I’ve repaired quite large batches of these parts.

Shown below are the valves regrinded by the method described above.

56 Комментарии и мнения владельцев:

What is the angle of the lapping and how do you want to correct it-question from the Urals.

Angle of 120 degrees. Although read on the forums that someone measured 111. I correct it, after each step of lapping the valve, a flat bar, scarified with diamond paste, which moves on the surface of the prism with an angle of the named value, set on the table of a table boring machine.

Thanks for the reply. We have increased the number of cases of incorrect operation of these valves. For repair (questionable) are asked 7 thousand.p New nozzle 10k.That’s why I had the idea to try to repair it myself, but otherwise.At the nozzle body to screw a mandrel with a hole for lapping and lapping by hand with diamond paste.Car HOVER injector BOSCH0445110 293.Use the same mandrel to measure the stroke of the ball, but the question is which one. 0.03 and 0.07 is a big difference.

I won’t say that this method won’t work, but its main drawback is that you have to manually rotate it for a very long time, periodically dressing the lapping.According to Internet sources the ball stroke 0,05 mm plus, minus 0,005 mm.

Absolutely right. both about the stroke and about the tolerance 🙂

Is not easier to do all the technology (change the valve) and not to fuck with the client??

Of course it’s easier. We replace in the nozzle home-made German Bosch-Ev guts on the Chinese and take a few hundred dollars from the customer.Repair by the technology proposed by me will cost the latter much cheaper. So it is not a fact who and how “fucked up”.

Hello, Alexander Ivanovich.Do you have any experience of repairing the valve of the multiplier Delfi??From my attempts I can say the following: if you lapped a little. the valve life is small, if you lapped so as to remove all the potholes in the valve seat. the valve sits so deep that the nozzle ceases to open.By the way, sometimes on the new Chinese valves, the valve is also initially deep and the nozzle also does not open.Is it possible to solve this problem??Thanks for the valuable and interesting information on your site.

Unfortunately, I have no experience, but there are considerations on the subject. Will answer later.

repair of the multiplier is not limited to lapping the valve seat, you also need to remove the development from the rod, to raise the leakage of the cylinder and return it to the factory settings. Offer services for full repair multiplier with the restoration of its full factory parameters, 1-y multiplier to try send without payment, I can bring the angle of lapping on dodochnom Hartridge machine, as well offer full repair of imported atomizers of all kinds (including Common rail) tel.89102248047 Alexander

You’re not making any sense, sir. For example: the repair of the multiplier is not limited to lapping the valve seat. Well, it’s very clear. It is necessary to remove the depreciation from the rod is that resharpen? So you make it even worse, and how do you raise the density? At least give them a hint. I can bring the lapping angle on the Hartridge lapping machine. No matter how and on what you did not finish it enough, at best, only on lapping one product. Other you can tell your customers. full repair of import atomizers of all kinds (including common rail). At least theses, a few words about the essence of repair. I do not believe you.

Krez Alexander Ivanovich, who wrote many fascinating articles on the repair of precision products, one of them was that not all of the atomizer can be repaired because of the allegedly poor fuel quality now, I will not go into the technological details of its production, I will only say that the exhaust from the rod is not removed by grinding and rolling on a special machine, and leakage can raise the many ways, but you need to know the only correct one in which the work part will work, send any atomizer and mu we are ready to make a set of atomizer multiplier for 1 cylinder for free, for your conviction that it all really works, about lapping is written correctly and I have nothing against it, but there are many people who bought themselves machines and lappers they are brought to 8-10, I am ready to do it cheaper

I saw your repair atomizer, you cut the needle and then restoring the needle stroke on the surface grinding machine cutting the face of the atomizer body, which is not correct, or rather not quite right, as a competent person involved in the restoration of precision products at the Institute would like to hear an answer to the following questions: what is the difference in the angles between the angle of the needle and the nozzle cone body taper, and what tolerance of this difference takes place in minutes? and another such moment, with the time of operation of the atomizer is washed out and their geometry is violated, the injection angle, respectively, changes, whether you restore the geometry of the nozzles or not? and the last question, what quality categories are divided into nozzle during production at precision plants and how these categories differ?

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Recommendations on disassembling and assembling of Common Rail injectors

Most modern diesel engines are equipped with common-rail fuel injection equipment, which is very sensitive to abrasive ingress, which immediately puts it out of operation. The engines themselves became multi-valve, which made it more difficult to place the injectors in the combustion chamber, so they have to be made longer, and the injector mounts are weaker, so as not to deform the long injectors. Therefore, dismantling/installation of these injectors should be performed in proper cleanliness and in accordance with the technology of the manufacturer.

Before dismantling injectors you need to wash the fuel equipment under a kerher jet, try not to water the wiring, and clean only the fuel equipment. Warning! During washing, into the damaged insulation of the el. wiring, moisture can get in, which will cause electrical faults. Therefore, after washing. it is necessary to purge with compressed air, start the diesel engine, warm it up completely and make computer diagnostics for electrical errors. If they are present. you must first eliminate them. and then proceed to removing nozzles.

Before nozzles dismantling you need to warm up the engine and start immediately to try to unscrew the bolts fixing the brackets of nozzles. If they do not unscrew from the allowable torque, it is necessary to abundantly pour WD-40 and let stand for 30 minutes. And try again (if the injectors and fasteners are rusty, then immediately before warming up the engine, pour WD-40 and warm up). If the bolts are not unscrewed, assess your strength or the nearest service station (if you are a car owner), as unscrewing a bolt can burst and stay in the head, which requires professional skills and appropriate tools for extraction.

The same situation is with the dismantling of the nozzles themselves. The nozzles must pull out strictly along their axis! If the nozzle does not go. do not: on them to knock, twist them around their axis (twisting) and apply inclined action! If You do not have the equipment for removing nozzles, we recommend not to risk yourself, as a minimum pulled out the nozzle deforms (no possibility of recovery), and in the worst case. breaks in the very cylinder head, that will lead to finding experts who can remove it, or to the dismantling of the cylinder head with further consequences (temporary). and quality).

So nozzles are removed! Immediately put the caps on the nozzle high pressure! if they are not, then make them out of ordinary foil. Further it is necessary to dismantle all fuel lines of high pressure, the fuel line from fuel injection valve (rail) to the rail, the fuel line from the fuel filter to fuel injection valve, and the fuel filter. Pack it all in each individual pile.

So, while the engine is cooling it is necessary to examine the condition of the fuel filt! Remove it and unscrew the drain screw all the way. empty the sludge into a clean and transparent vessel; at the moment of draining shake the filter, so that all the content poured out (Attention: at the moment of sludge drain upper nozzles of the fuel filter must not be closed and the upper cavity of the fuel filter is connected to the atmosphere (so that the sludge flows out under the pressure). Examine the condition of the drained sludge and if the sludge is clean or at the bottom there are a few drops of water and a little dirt, then we just install a new original fuel filter; if the sludge will be more than 20% water or chips (which can be found with a magnet), then you need to remove the fuel tank for cleaning, and also take off the fuel pump and send it together with the injectors to a specialized fuel repair shop.

Warning! If there is moisture in the fuel system, and it will work fine on the bench, it still needs to be disassembled, cleaned, inspected and reassembled with a new repair kit, since even a small spot of rust will lead to catastrophic wear!

While injectors are checked it is necessary to examine and prepare seats in a cylinder head under injectors which should be clean, smooth, without torn marks of tooling, and also it is necessary to check distance from the top plane of a cylinder head to a plane under a injector (that is depth of a well), and to compare with other cylinders. Very often there are old sealing washers left over which the motorists do not notice and install new washers, and in some cases, if the seating is damaged, the motorists “welt” the plane, which becomes lower by a millimeter. so the injector flare will not get exactly into the combustion chamber.

At our service we. make sure there are no additional washers and the standard well length, we check the distance between the plane under the injector and the piston at the top dead point that characterizes the compression ratio, and if it will differ more than 0.5 mm then this cylinder will not work normally in the cold, and in that case we install the washer by the same value thinner.

And, accordingly, to make sure there are no mechanical problems with the engine, check all levels of technical fluids, oil leaks, timing belt and generator.

So we have repaired the injectors or bought new ones.

RULES! ow we unpack and remove the protective caps only before installing each part! keep our hands and working environment clean and under no circumstances should we do this work outdoors! Where at the slightest breeze blows abrasives on the surfaces of the fuel injectors! Fixing bolts of injectors and sealing washers must be new!

If you have dismantled fuel injection pump, you must first install it, so you can scroll the crankshaft and check the timing without compression resistance.

Install fuel filter and connect fuel line to fuel injection pump.

Install the fuel rail, connect it to the fuel pump.

Install the injectors, one by one, observing the torque and the order of tightening, as well as their position and direction.

After. install high pressure fuel lines between the rail and the nozzles, nozzles on the rail tighten to the required torque, and on the nozzles do not screw on half a turn. Attention! Pay attention to alignment of fuel line lugs and connectors! do not overtighten in case of misalignment! Otherwise there will be deformation that will lead to fuel leakage at high pressure!

Then it is necessary to pump the whole fuel system, if there is a fuel pump in the tank it is necessary to switch on ignition for a short time, at the moment when the pump in the tank works until the moment when from not tightened nuts on nozzles the fuel will flow. After that you must tighten the nuts on the nozzles and start the engine. If there is no electric booster pump then it is necessary to connect the hand pump (for example we use pear) before the fuel filter and pump the fuel system until there is elasticity in the pump, and then turn the starter (as the pressure created by the hand pump will not press the inlet valves in fuel injection pump) until there is fuel on nozzle nipples, tighten the nipples and start the diesel.

Once the diesel has started, let it run for a minute at idle speed, while observing that there is no air in the system (for this purpose we recommend installing transparent fuel lines). If there is a large amount of air, turn off the diesel and remove the air leakage.

After the diesel engine has worked at idle rpm, “turn off” slowly up to 2500 rpm, listen: no suspicious noises. Then “blow off” sharply up to 3000 rpm once again listen to the work of the diesel. If everything is normal, warm up the diesel to a temperature of 80℃. connect diagnostic tool. check for errors, remove them and check again, if there are no errors, perform all resets of the fuel equipment adaptation and write the new injector codes in the car ECU.

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Examine the fuel equipment for leaks, and the engine itself for oil leaks and abnormal sounds, and go to the track checking the car at all modes. After driving in different modes, make again a computer diagnostics, examine the engine and the fuel system, and if there are no errors and no abnormal behavior, then start driving the car on the public roads, but(!) first carefully, without sharp and provoking overtaking, and if you start sharply, then along a straight line. even if, suddenly, the engine will be stalled, you will not create an emergency situation.

To ensure that the injectors last a long time, it is necessary to follow a number of simple rules. First of all you should use only high-quality fuel, bought not at single gas stations or random people but at proven gas stations, with a positive reputation. Besides, it is necessary to change timely the filter elements of the fuel system (every 8-10 thousand rub).km), regularly drain the water and sludge from the fuel filters, as well as the tank, if the latter is provided by its design. After each replacement of the fuel filter it is necessary to cut it and check the state of the fuel in the tank and where you fill up. Normal filter should be 60% clogged. In case the filter will be categorically clogged. need to clean the tank and change the filler! And after cleaning the fuel tank to come up for diagnosis and check the condition of the fuel equipment, so that on a long trip or business trip your car will not let you down!

Dear Visitor! We are physically unable to respond to every comment. In order that you could independently (or with the help of the nearest auto service) to troubleshoot the diesel, we have developed an OnlineDiagnostics. This is an interactive guide which contains all known causes of diesel engine problems and indicates how to achieve the correct operation of a particular engine.

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Repair of Common Rail injectors, pump injectors, piezo injectors of cars

Nozzle repair price. from 3 500 rubles. During repair at our company, check the injector. free.


Availability of already restored and tested injectors allows you to change your injectors “on the fly”.


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The diesel engine is a structurally complex power unit, which is constantly being improved and modernized. Injection of the combustible mixture into its combustion chambers occurs due to the injectors. the main elements of the fuel supply system. Working in extreme conditions, they are exposed to serious loads and often fail before their intended time. Mechanical injectors are designed for 200 thousand kilometers of run, but not enough high-quality diesel fuel and other factors significantly reduce their potential resource. Even a minor malfunction in the work of these elements will certainly affect the stability of the engine. Repair of diesel Common Rail injectors. responsible work that should be carried out by professional craftsmen. After all, the quality of repair depends on how effective and hassle-free the next engine operation will be.

Instructions for removing stuck injectors

To dismantle the nozzles with a branded puller, it is recommended to follow the following sequence:

  • Remove all contamination by blowing out with compressed air;
  • Fill the gap between the nozzle and the insertion point with penetrating lubricant, e.g. WD-40;
  • Place an inertia puller over the stuck nozzle;
  • The return fuel drain fitting should pass through the positioning slot;
  • Using a torque wrench, screw the spindle onto the threaded part of the nozzle. Tighten to the nominal torque specified in the vehicle data sheet. Most cars have a force of 20 Newtons per meter;
  • To put a washer with the thinned side down;
  • Place the second washer on top. Its spherical side should point downwards. It is recommended to lubricate the puller with oil to increase the smoothness of dismounting and prolong its service life;
  • Put on a package of spring washers. coming with branded nozzle remover;
  • Tighten the nut by hand. When the force is no longer enough, a 36 mm open-end wrench is needed. Do not tighten until there is very little torque.

Further work involves the use of a Vibropac vibrator. In its absence, craftsmen recommend tapping with a hammer. This method will work if the jamming of the nozzle is not strong. In this case the risk of damaging the cylinder head cover is very high, so this method should not be used. If the Vibropac is available, further instructions are given below:

  • Remove the nozzle for removing the spark plugs;
  • To shut off the air supply as much as possible;
  • Put on a percussion pin;
  • Mark the wrench on the nut;
  • Press the pedal of the Vibropack;
  • At a certain point under the influence of vibration the nut begins to tighten. This means that the removal of the nozzles is successful. It is not necessary to apply excessive force to the wrench;
  • The nut should be tightened by combining with the action of vibration;
  • The nozzle will come free at some point. It is necessary to remove the key and take it out together with the puller.

The peculiarity of work with self-made puller is preliminary long-term soaking with penetrating grease or corrosion inhibitor. Risk of damaging the injector threads as soon as the wrench has been turned for the first time if there is insufficient prior preparation. After that, it is much more difficult to remove it.

Use of puller saves time, because there is no need to remove the cylinder head cover. Careful handling will keep the seating position intact. Simply clean it and you can install a new injector.

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