Jigsaw table with their own hands (devices for sawing)
Compact and relatively mobile cutter with a worldwide reputation for practicality. Universal jigsaw, capable of making straight and curved cuts, including at an angle. With its impressive capabilities, this device could become a leader in its multi-purpose application. Unfortunately, certain features of the design, made it more of a narrowly focused tool, but a good potential.
Of the disadvantages of working with jigsaws, it is quite inconvenient to carry out precise, straight sawing. The main reason for this disadvantage, is the thin saw blade, which easily changes its direction while sawing. The second reason lies in the design itself, which loosens over time and noticeably reduces the flatness of the cut. Fortunately, these flaws can be ignored in the presence of special devices for jigsaws, which can be made with their own hands. Next, we will tell you how to make a special table and stop for maximum precision sawing with your tool.
How to insert a jigsaw into an electric jigsaw
With intensive use or when working with different types of materials, it is often necessary to change the saw blade. Types of saw clamps, on different models of jigsaws, may differ. To give the most detailed answer, let’s consider each type of clamping separately.
Stake Clamp. Probably the simplest attachment of the saw in an electric jigsaw, the most common in inexpensive instances. It consists of a block with two screws mounted on the front side of the tool. It is universal, because it can fix saw blades with any shank. When tightening this fastener, you should be careful to make sure that the saw stands up straight. To do this, tighten the screws evenly, a little at a time each, and ideally check the flatness of the mounted blade with an angle.
screw clamp. convenient and reliable attachment, although it has only one screw on the side. To understand how to change the saw blade on a jigsaw with this type of clamping, you do not need to be seven heights in the forehead. All that is required is to loosen the fastening element with a screwdriver or wrench, remove the old saw blade, install the new blade and screw it back on. The main thing is not to tighten the screw too much or the blade may “play” while working.
Quick clamping. The most convenient saw clamp found on more or less expensive models. Does not require a wrench or screwdriver and is only suitable for blades with certain types of shanks (depends on the tool model). To install the saw blade, it is enough to take away the special lever with a finger and insert a new blade into the groove. There are several types of levers: frontal, lateral and radial (demonstrated in the following video).
Now that you know how to insert the saw into the jigsaw correctly, it’s time to move on to other, more practical things.
Making a base for an electric jigsaw
Support the bed should be quite high, so when the jigsaw blade is not in contact with the workbench. It is on the basis of this size and the width of the boards is selected. The length of the support should be equal to the size of the jigsaw support. The most optimal width can be called 40-50 cm. It turns out that from four boards (2 short and two long), set on the rib, a rectangle is collected.
The base itself consists of a rectangular piece of plywood, from the bottom of which the boards are fixed along the perimeter. In order to understand how it should look like, you can look at the example below. In fact, there is absolutely nothing difficult in this work.
The quality of assembly and wear and tear of the jigsaw components are the causes of crooked sawing
What to do when the jigsaw cuts crookedly, ? In this case we have to thank the manufacturer for the quality of the assembly. However, there is a compromise here as well, as manufacturers of household electric jigsaws indicate recommendations that it is possible to operate such a tool for no more than 20-30 minutes. Working time should alternate with long pauses. In addition, household tools are not designed for long and hard work, so if the device starts to fail, it is primarily the fault of the owner.
It is quite another matter when a fault in the form of curvilinear sawing of material is encountered on professional jigsaws, It is the last thing to rush to take the tool to a workshop. First of all we proceed to their self-diagnostics and repair.
- Check if there is clearance of the rod where the head or the saw-tooth holder is mounted.If play size is more than 1 mm it means that it is necessary to look for breakage in the rod design. The rod runs on guides that wear out over time. To reduce backlash and return the tool to normal operation, the guides or the entire mechanism should be replaced
- Unreliable fixation of blades in the saw blade holder. this kind of failure is often connected with the wear of the fixing mechanism.If after the installation and fastening of the blade in the chuck of the tool you can see a backlash, it means you need to check the head and if necessary to replace it. Failure of saw blade holder causes such failure as loss of blades from the tool, which is connected with the wear of mechanism parts
- Failure of the guide roller. if it is loose and vibrates, then of course the jigsaw will not saw evenly.It is easy to fix the breakage by replacing the roller, but first making sure that it is the cause
- Defect of blades. if the saw has a slight bend, it will not be able to saw straight.The presence of defective blades can be not only from the factory, but also arise during operation. For example, if the jigsaw is pressed hard against the workpiece, the blade may jam and bend. The curvature of the blades is sometimes difficult to determine by eye, so a new saw blade is installed and the quality of the sawing is checked. To the choice of blades you need an appropriate approach, so it is strongly recommended not to buy the cheapest saw blades of unknown producers. After all, it affects not only the quality of work performed, but also the safety of the master
Read also: Tapping tool for unscrewing broken bolts
Homemade jigsaw from a drill
Electric screwdriver and drill are among the most common power tools in any household. These devices are quite powerful, have a wide range of applications and are sometimes even used as drives of various mechanisms. It is as a motor that the author of the following guide on assembling a desktop jigsaw with his own hands uses a drill.
The following process of making a classic machine tool does not require welding and cutting metal with an angle grinder, but it perfectly demonstrates the principle of operation of such a device. At the heart of the device lies an elementary crank mechanism that can be made in a couple of minutes, having at disposal a piece of plywood and a short steel rod with a diameter of 6 mm. Unfortunately, the author did not provide a detailed drawing of the jigsaw, but closed many questions by mounting a clear video tutorial.
- Wooden bar (2 pieces): 500x40x20 (length, width, thickness)
- Chipboard for the base: 400x350x20
- Wood particle board for the work surface: 320x320x20
- Particle board strips (2 pcs): 350x50x20
- Aluminum sheet: 400x400x1
- Power drill (electric screwdriver)
- PVC pipes (4 pieces): 300 mm long
- Self-tapping screws, bolts, washers and nuts
- Wood glue
- Steel rod, 6mm diameter (for cranking unit)
In place of the presented saw blade tensioning mechanism, a small turnbuckle with a locking nut can be installed. That way, the tensioning process will be more convenient and efficient.
As a saw, the author uses steel wire for survival in the woods. Of course, it is not possible to get a perfectly even cut with such an element, so at the ends of the upper and lower arms, it is necessary to make a fastener. The saw blade can be clamped between two washers tightened by a screw with a pair of nuts.
For the strongest and most convenient fixation of the crank, it is better to use a drill chuck with a key. With this element, you can quickly remove the drill or electric screwdriver when you need it elsewhere. It is just as easy to tighten it back up.
We hope that the submitted guide was useful and understandable conveyed the principle of operation and manufacture device. A more clear instruction on how to make a homemade jigsaw, you can see in the video below.
Table for jigsaw with his own hands: step by step
Machines and Tools /26-Feb,2016,23;12 / 31738
Today I want to tell you how to make a table for an electric jigsaw with your own hands. Some might say. but why? You can saw on any table With such success we can ask: why do you need electric jigsaw? You can saw with manual jigsaw as well.
When sawing with an electric jigsaw file is moving sideways. Looked at the Internet, and I, initially, wanted a bandsaw, to buy it is not possible, and make it very difficult and expensive. Here I decided to make a table for the electric jigsaw.
The first thing to decide on the material for the table and its size.
In the garage I found a chipboard, that’s what I will use for the table and its cover. Bar itself will be made from a profile tube size 25×25×25 and a height of 110mm, length 515 mm long perpendicular angle 20 mm.
To the part of the fixture where there is the saw clip, in other words the lock, I used two bearings. Metal bar fixed the “wing bar”, which would be able to adjust the level of elevation of the workpiece which we cut.
Moving on to the table. The table size: length 540 mm, width-400 mm the base 435 mm, depth of 350 mm. and height 250mm.
Under the table on screws and washers I attached the jigsaw. The front of the table I left open to be accessible, so that if necessary to replace the saw blade, to adjust the speed or amplitude, in a word, to make different adjustments jigsaw. Of course, in the future I plan to improve the table by making it a door, not only for aesthetics, but then the noise will diminish.
For more convenience when sawing made a ruler- stop. I made it small, because when we are sawing at the table not much effort is applied (compared to the circular saw, where you need a ruler more powerful to cut parts evenly). The device ruler is very simple here used a furniture nut at 8, and on the other side of the screw, which using a screwdriver easily twisted. It can be screwed to the table manually, but if we do it with a screwdriver would be safer.
The ruler moves freely on the table, what is convenient when cutting.
Table. jigsaw machine is ready, you see there is nothing complicated in its construction.
some special features for selecting saws
pitch (t) is the distance between the tips of the teeth. In some countries, the pitch is referred to as TPI (teeth per inch). measured in number of teeth per inch (e.g., TPI = 7, t.е. 7 teeth per inch). When cross-cutting wood, a saw with a coarse tooth t = 3.5-6.5 mm (TPI = 7-3.5) is suitable, for regular joinery work, a saw with a medium tooth t = 3-3.5 mm (TPI = 9-7), and for demanding sawing work, a saw with a fine tooth t = 2-3 mm (TPI = 13-9). The thickness of the material to be sawn must also be taken into account.
It is easier to saw with a jigsaw when 5-8 teeth are engaged in the saw. If this rule is not respected, the blade will vibrate while working and the saw trimmer line will get curved and jagged.
Stability of saw blade while sawing in straight line depends on the thickness of blade. For sawing thick workpieces, it is better to use circular saws.
A jigsaw for my own hands
After the table for the circular saw, I set about making a table for the jigsaw. It is needed for more fine work. An ideal tool would have been a band saw, but it is too cumbersome and I can not afford it in my small workshop. Small and inexpensive band saws. are unreliable, and the big one I do not fit.
I didn’t want to put my expensive Makita jigsaw permanently in the table, so I decided to buy another. I was very lucky to find it in the store “Our House” Jigsaw Kalibr LEM-610E for only 862r. Included: a saw on wood, a side stop, an adapter for a vacuum cleaner, spare brushes for the motor.
There was an outlet next to the showcase and I watched it in action. It is quite decently made, convenient, has a wheel to adjust the speed, switching is fixed with a button. Saw holder moves clearly without backlash.
Very fortunate that I was able to twirl it in my hands before I bought it, from the website Alltools.I would not risk to order it, not knowing what it is. (Although reviews on it write a good) By the way, there it is more expensive and more shipping fee. So I successfully bought it in “Our House”. 🙂
1) A file does not fit in the file holder. Apparently it is a defective copy, but I did not waste my time to exchange. Every file has to be sharpened. (Although on the second jigsaw I won’t be able to use them after machining. no problem, they are relatively inexpensive)2) And this defect is visible even in the picture. The blade is tilted heavily forward. ( This, too, was corrected by putting tin strips under the back of the sole, achieving 90 o.3) Turn the thumb wheel is hard to turn, not very clear and with a jam. The tool doesn’t even start at minimum speed (It’s the same thing with my other tools, though) “gauge” drills It is unpleasant, but not much spoils life)
As well as with the saw, the jigsaw is installed on a table top made of 12mm laminated plywood and screwed to it the base of 3 22mm chipboard. I sawed all the parts on my new circular table. Note that the base is attached flush with the left edge of the table top. On the other sides there is a small indentation. So that it is possible to strengthen the ostnasstka. The table dimensions (W350xD350xH260).
As always everything is minimalist. I did not make a separate switch. It’s quite handy to turn on the regular button and lock it in place.
You can already saw something out of the thin plywood. And here with thick materials. the problem. The jigsaw blade, although resilient, still bends. Therefore, if you saw a thick material. The edge of the saw is sure to move sideways and the kerf will be crooked.
To prevent this from happening: it is necessary to make something that will hold the dangling edge of the saw strictly vertically.
To do this, I bought a bracket at KrepMarket (it’s a piece of hardware from some iron construction system)
By the way, really love CrepeMarket. Any screws, nuts, self-tapping screws, fasteners. Every time I build something, I think about it and get the parts I need.
I screwed in a pair of 11mm bearings by drilling the holes.
I cut and ground the excess.
I attached the bracket to a sturdy L-shaped structure (birch). Note that the bracket is not attached at the very edge. Under the bracket drilled an oblong groove that allows you to attach the bracket so that you can move it to the right side for the alignment of the saw.
Back view. Now the spacing between the bearings has a fixed clearance under the saw 1.2mm. I have a plan for the future: to make adjustments to the gap.
The L-shaped structure is bolted to the base of the table with a piece of thick fiberboard. Thanks to this design, the holder can be lowered, lifted and tilted, aligning it with the movement of the saw.