If your chain is PowerSharp compatible, it saves time and effort. Sharpening occurs without taking off the guide bar in just a few seconds. The system kit includes:
Let’s figure out how to sharpen your chainsaw chain with PowerSharp in just three steps:
- Install the chain with the bar;
- Fix the bar installed directly on the bar;
- Hold the end of the saw against something and run the equipment for a few seconds.
Observance of all recommendations will help to avoid chain breakage and to carry out the operation in accordance with technological requirements.
Without knowing the following theoretical points, it is difficult to establish the factors why a tool cuts crooked and how to deal with them.
How the Pro’s sharpen a chainsaw
The first reason is due to the fact that the teeth of the chain wear out unevenly due to the fact that under them, for example, nails.
That’s why the saw’s cutting performance suffers and we have to apply more pressure on the bar to compensate.
How the saw reacts to this? Its sharp teeth continue to chip away at the wood without a problem, and its blunt teeth do not cut through wood but roll over like a car wheel over a bump. But a shock-absorber helps a wheel, and a chainsaw doesn’t have a shock-absorber.
The chain then shifts in the groove and one or the other rib quickly wears down. the chain shanks and the groove along which they run also wear unevenly.
The movement of the chain on the bar becomes irregular. If this position is ignored, the wear process will only increase.
The second reason for accelerated wear is incorrect or untimely tensioning of the chain, which is the most stressed part of a chainsaw. It is recommended to stretch it to such an extent that when lifted with fingers, the lower part of three shanks is visible. But this way of tensioning is not exact.
The chain is tightened when the saw is cold. If this is done correctly, no slack is visible and the chain slides easily over the bar. This has its own subtleties. When the chain-saw is running, the chain heats up first and there is a natural tendency for the chain to slacken, i.e. к. the metal expands when heated. If you ignore this and tighten the chain, you can make the situation worse. When the saw is turned off, the chain is retightened as it cools.
When further sawing, the bar warms up with some delay and increases in size, which also causes the chain to overtighten. It puts extra load on the bearings, sprocket, bar, and causes the chain to stretch very quickly.
If the chain saw is hot, it can easily lengthen the chain if it is not sharpened as well as over tightened which in turn can cause the bar and chain to wear more. The picture remains the same if you put the chain in oil on the worn bar. Sawing with this chainsaw stays crooked.
How to untangle chainsaw chain
When you remove the old chain or put a new one on the chain saw guide bar, it can get tangled. This can also happen if the chain is not transported carefully. When the chain is tangled, it curls up into rings.
Because it is not flexible enough transversely, it is very difficult to untangle it with bare hands because if you try to untangle one ring, a new ring will form in the other place.
You need to put the chainsaw chain on a horizontal surface and unscrew the rings in different directions while pulling the blade in such a direction that the diameter of the rings increases. Sooner or later the chain will unravel to its natural position.
No Nonsense Guide to Chainsaw Sharpening. How To Sharpen A Chainsaw Properly. FarmCraft101
Another way is to unbolt one link of the chain and straighten it up, then put it back together into a ring and rivet the riveted links back on.
Chain saw. design, adjustment, use
A standard chainsaw for cutting wood consists of the following basic elements:
- INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE. This is usually a 1-cylinder, 2-stroke motor with air cooling system.
- Air filter. Requires a certain degree of cleanliness to be maintained. Otherwise the motor will malfunction, lose speed and become excessively hot.
- Starter. Consists of a crank handle with rope for starting the engine.
- Gearbox. The rotation of the piston creates torque, which is transmitted through a set of gears to the cutting part of the device.
- Clutch system. Intermediate link between the gearbox and the bar. Keeps engine running when the chain is stopped.
- Tire and chain. Fixed removable base plate on which the chain rotates via sprockets.
- A tensioning tool for the chain.
- Brake. Stops chain rotation automatically if chain is damaged, torn or bent.
How to Sharpen a Chainsaw by hand with a file
Engine fuel is a mixture of gasoline and oil. Works on a classical principle of the carburetor circuit. the stronger you press the gas pedal, the more gasoline and oil mixture is fed to the piston system through the carburetor, and the higher torque is transmitted to the chain reducer.
To determine which chain is best suited to your particular chainsaw application, it helps to know its basic characteristics. These are primarily parameters such as:
- Types of teeth and correlation of their parameters. Chains are of 3 types: master links, connecting links, and drive links.
- Profile. Chains are divided into low and high profile. In the first case, the teeth are located at a minimum distance from each other, and in the second. at the maximum.
- Shank thickness.
A chainsaw chain, together with the guide bar, is subjected to the highest stress in use, unlike other chain saw parts. over time, it extends in size due to the boring of the connecting links. This process occurs with every kind of chain, which is why it is necessary to periodically inspect chain tension and wear during chain saw use.
If the chain is too tight, sawing efficiency is reduced, and the motor and transmission are stressed. The guide bar gets very hot due to the increased friction, the chainsaw goes into overdrive.
Shortening a chain with professional tools
If the chains are operated on an industrial scale, it makes sense to get professional tools to shorten them. The work requires only two tools: a punch to remove the connecting elements and a machine to install them.
A riveting tool works on the same principle as a press tool. Anvil with slots for chains at different pitches is available with the tool. The rivets are squeezed out using replaceable tips. Watch this video to see how to do the job.
After disconnecting the chain, you need to remove the unnecessary link or several. And now to restore the integrity of the chainring you need to install the rivet. This can be done with a riveting tool.
A little about how to operate the assembly
Independently of the brand of the manufacturer (STIHL, Husqvarna, Partner, Patriot, Makita ) chainsaws are divided into household, semi-professional and professional. The difference, however, is not in the quality of assembly or manufacture of components, but in the class of the tasks performed, productivity and continuous power of the drive. This determines the choice of sprocket material for a chainsaw, the chain design and the chain construction.
The performance of the tool will be determined by the way the chain-and-sprocket pair is operated. In most cases, users use one of the two options:
- The chain is used until the teeth are completely worn out, and then both the saw blade and the sprocket are replaced at the same time;
- Changing chains with different pitch and each chain requires a different sprocket.
The choice is often determined by the owner’s attitude towards his tool. If you don’t care what you’re sawing (wood or steel staples, screws, etc.), you’ll find that the saw works according to the classic carburetor principle.), then it is possible to choose the first variant. The chain, however, must be periodically corrected, thereby reducing the performance of the chainsaw.
It is categorically not recommended to leave the old chain with a new sprocket and vice versa. If the saw blade is worn, there is almost a one hundred percent chance that the tooth pitch does not match. That is why both components of the chain drive are subjected to high dynamic stress when first started. As a result, either the chain will stretch prematurely, “adjusting” to the sprocket, or one of the teeth on the drive sprocket will break on impact.
Furthermore, the functioning of the sprocket shaft bearings is also worth paying attention to. if the saw is running in RPM mode, only the crankshaft rotates. But all chainsaws also occasionally run at idle speed when the bearing is rotating. Lack of lubrication leads to wear of the seating surfaces and. as a consequence. to additional tooth wobbling in the still perfectly serviceable chain transmission.
It is therefore a good idea to also replace the chain and drive sprocket when replacing the chain and drive sprocket for the chain saw.
The chainsaw chain, together with the guide bar, is subjected to the greatest stresses in operation, unlike other chain saw parts. It extends in size over time due to the boring of the connecting links. This process occurs with absolutely all types of chains, so when you use a chainsaw, you should periodically monitor the proper tensioning of the chain and its wear.
If the chain is too tight, sawing efficiency suffers, and the engine and transmission are exposed to higher loads. The guide bar gets very hot because of the friction, and the chain saw goes into overdrive.
Adjusting saw chain tension
A good chain saw operator should never start a chain saw before he has checked the tensioning of the chain. If it is weak, the headset will wobble when moving, come off the tire and may well burst. Excessive tensioning is no good either. higher loads on the engine and rapid wear of the components reduce the working life of the tool critically.
In most models the tension of the saw chain locks the bar. This means that if it is under or over tightened, the bar will have increased play, or its sprocket will be jammed and will not be able to move the headset.
Procedure for tensioning the saw chain is performed according to the following algorithm:
To do this, around the middle of the bar at the top of the bar, take the chain by the prong and pull it up vertically. At optimum tensioning, around one-third of the shank remains in the bar groove and the chain can turn freely by hand. If not, it means it is overtightened or loosened.
Before you begin repairing, make sure the chainsaw is off and cannot be started accidentally.
To do this, turn the chain by hand along the mowing line of the working stroke. If the headset is loose, you will notice sagging at the bottom of the tire.
This assembly is located inside the busbar retaining cover that is near the brake clutch. Loosen the clamping nuts and turn the tensioner (adjusting bolt) until the chain is tensioned properly, while maintaining the chain smooth running and the necessary hinge clearance.
It is forbidden to change the chain or make adjustments when the chain is hot. The metal shrinks as it cools, so a headset adjusted in this way can deform the tire or cause the motor to fail.