How to trim a laminate flooring under a chimney. What to take a stock of laminate

Trimming laminate, parquet.

It is nice and easy to lay laminate or hardwood flooring on an even horizontal base and start laying laminate flooring from a straight wall in a rectangular room. However, this situation in older homes is quite rare. But the uneven screed and complex geometry because of the curved walls, openings for radiators, doorways and other obstacles are much more common. It is a good idea to level the floor and the walls, but people often buy a laminate or hardwood, not to make several weeks or even months to deal with the alignment of the floor and walls, but to align a few days or even hours to laminate floors. In such cases, the laminate and parquet will last less than if laid on an even surface, but no one forbids laying laminate and parquet boards on an uneven surface. That’s just before you start laying should think carefully about the direction of the laying, and with the prism have to tinker.

trim, laminate, flooring

For example, consider the following situation: many years ago in a brick house, the balcony door was installed on the bricks, the top level of bricks was above the general level of screed, but the builders were not confused and they made in this place something like a ramp, which was then covered with linoleum. The flooring looked something like this:

The ramp near the balcony door in section.

one of the bricks used when the old balcony door was installed;

Note: In reality, the slope of the ramp was slightly less, and the picture shows this slope for clarity.

When replacing the old wooden balcony door with a new plastic one, the installers used bricks as a support to set the new door frame. Then the linings were finished and the question arose of a new floor covering. For linoleum and carpeting such a ramp is no problem, but the owners decided to buy laminate. The above ramp and determined the direction of the laminate flooring, it was decided to lay the laminate so that the longitudinal joint of the laminate rows would fall on the trimmer line of the ramp transition to the screed. To do this we had to mark the laminate boards of the first row and cut them properly. The process looked something like this:

Picture 1. Positioning the first laminate board for marking.

Since the walls of houses with plastered walls are not very even, firstly a longitudinal row of laminate boards is assembled in order to determine the trimmer line that will be used to join the longitudinal rows. After the trimmer line is defined, the first board of the laminate is installed so that its long side is parallel to the joint line of longitudinal rows. Sometimes, in order to keep the board from riding on the subfloor while marking, several boards can be assembled, as shown in photo 1. A board that is adjacent to the wall, or at least touching the wall at one point, makes it easier to control whether or not misalignment has occurred during the marking process. The layout itself is made using the knowledge you acquired in geometry class at school, namely. parallel transfer. This requires an angle and a tape measure:

Sequence of marking the first laminate board

I think the sequence of steps and their meaning is quite clearly shown in picture 2. After all characteristic points are transferred to the laminate board, the points are connected (n) and in theory you can cut the board directly according to the lines obtained, but in practice you need to take into account on one hand that there must be an expansion joint between the walls and the laminate, and on the other hand that the marking. The process is complicated and mistakes happen. Therefore, it is desirable to cut the board with a reserve for accurate prisecki or even in general first make a template of fiberboard or thick cardboard, to fit a template as it should, and then transfer the dimensions from the template to the board. If you will use a stationary or handheld circular saw or an electric jigsaw to cut the laminate, you can do without the template, but to saw with a hacksaw for wood, and especially for metal laminate boards along the board. it is not a pleasure.

In this case we used an electric jigsaw to cut the laminate, and it looked like this:

In this case the laminate was cut across the face with an ordinary particleboard file (with the teeth upwards). In this case the partial chipping of the laminate flooring near the cut can occur, but since the cut will subsequently be covered with plinths or trim strips there is nothing to worry about, and it is not so easy to notice the millimeter chipping and dents when the HDF base color is close to the color of the laminate flooring. However if you have the task of cutting the laminate very carefully so that there are no chips and dents in the laminate, it is better to use a file with teeth downwards for chipboard or a special laminate file. Another thing is that when working with an electric jigsaw is difficult enough to make a straight cut, the file and tends to go to the right or left, so for smooth cutting you need to use a special ruler for a jigsaw or make a special guide for the jigsaw frame. If you need to make a curved cut with a radius of less than 2.If you have a scraped edge of 5 to 3 cm then it is better to use a special narrow file for chipboard. And in general when making cuts on the front surface it is much more important not to scratch the laminate with the metal jigsaw foot, because scratches in 2-3 cm from the cutting line will not be covered by any skirting board. One way to avoid scratching the laminate flooring is to put masking tape on the jigsaw frame. If the file is blunt, and laminate files blunt quickly, the scotch tape can get damaged and then it needs to be re-adhesive.

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What to do with the door openings?

Is characterized by high labor costs, although this technology is the best in most cases. Trim the door frame to a height that is high enough to allow the laminate panel to be installed. But when performing such manipulations is very relevant folk wisdom: “Measure twice before you cut. Here the main focus is on the size accuracy, since there is no chance to correct the situation.

An easier method that involves working with a laminate panel. It is trimmed to the size of the door jamb or other “protrusion”, leaving a gap from the wall. In the vicinity of the door opening allowed gap size not more than 5 mm. In addition, it will subsequently be covered with a special decorative strip, which will be installed in such a way that it will not interfere with the closing-opening of the door.

How to calculate the amount of laminate and related materials.

Calculate the amount of materials that will be used for laying is not difficult. You must know the area of the room and take into account the fact that during installation you will have to trim the material to size, so for the normal version to the calculated amount of material should be added 5-7%, with a diagonal laying you need to add up to 10-12%. If it is difficult for you to calculate the right amount of material, you can ask for help from a sales consultant.

Before you start work, you will have to buy such materials:

  • Directly selected laminate.
  • (polypropylene foam or natural cork).
  • Polyethylene film for waterproofing.
  • Wedges to provide technological gaps.

Also, before starting the work, you need to prepare the following tools:

  • Measuring tape.
  • A fine-toothed hacksaw or an electric jigsaw.
  • A straightforward pencil.
  • Hammer.
  • Wooden bar.
  • Construction angle.
  • A special knife.
  • Scotch.
  • A nylon or kapron cord.

Step The procedure for installing the laminate flooring

Laying is performed with the tongue and groove joints on top of the plywood. This makes the job a lot easier.

Beginning with the assembly of the first strip. To do this, connect the panels at the narrow end. It is necessary to bring the locks into engagement at an angle of 15. 20 degrees and click.

It is not always possible to fit a number of panels into a row. In this case the latter is cut to the right length. If the size of the remaining part is at least 1/2 the length of the whole, you can start the next row with it.


Spacers should be installed between the panels and the wall. They are needed to create a gap of 8-10 mm that compensates thermal deformations of the flooring. Remove them after finishing the work.


Assemble the panels at an offset of 1/2 length. Therefore, the assembly of the second strip begins with half of the panel.

The assembled second strip is brought to the first, enter the locks in the meshing at an angle of 15-20 degrees and snap.


It is important to note that the third strip should start with a whole panel, t.е. All odd-numbered strips start with a whole panel, the even-numbered ones with half a panel.


The entire laminate flooring in the room is installed in the same way as the first two strips.

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Preparing the wooden base

When installing a coating on a wooden floor, the substrate must also be properly prepared. Do not make the installation if the floor boards are loose or cracked, there are gaps, rotten areas.

Nail stripped boards to the joists, replace boards with mildew spots or scored areas with new ones. Seal cracks and fill them with sealant, check the subfloor with a level or straight edge and carefully prime it with an antiseptic compound. You should lay water-proof plywood on top and fix it to the floor with nails or self-tapping screws. If the height differences are more than 2 mm per meter of area, the surface is leveled by placing wooden bars of different thickness under the plywood.

How to cut laminate flooring at home

In order to accurately and neatly cut the laminate, you need to adhere to two basic conditions. First of all, you will need to properly mark the line for the trimmer of the cut. Only carpenter’s squares are used for this purpose. No markings with laser beams and pointers built into an electric jigsaw or renozzers can be used.

The second requirement is a low feed rate of the cutting tool. The more the cutting edge presses against the laminate material, the more the teeth deflect from the direction of travel. Productivity increases, but surface quality decreases many times over.

If you cut material with an angle grinder or a circular saw, you also need to maintain a constant pressure force on the tool. This is the only way to cut evenly over the entire length of the panel.

How to choose the right tool?

Guided in the choice should be based on two groups of factors. First, on the characteristics of the material, the conditions of laying and volume of work. Secondly, the parameters of the tool itself. For example, than to cut the laminate flooring at home? There is no sense to be equipped with high-performance electrical equipment in this case, as a small amount of panels for domestic installation will qualitatively process and guillotine with a hacksaw. If you are planning to cover a large office area with a hardwearing laminate model then a circular saw or angle grinder is a good choice.


So you have bought a laminate flooring from us and it can be installed by a person who does not have any special skills and it can be done with a minimum of time.

Remember this instruction is only an ADDENDUM to the “Laminate Flooring Installation Manual” that you can find in every laminate package. However, if you do not have such experience in laying, we with our instructions, and we hope that it will help you to avoid the most common mistakes in the assembly, because we will touch points that are overlooked sometimes even by “seasoned” masters. Pay special attention to the EXPRESSED TEXT.

trim, laminate, flooring
  • Spacer bars or special wedges. to meet the necessary gap between the laminate and the wall.
  • Jigsaw with a fine tooth or electric jigsaw, which although it is not a mandatory tool for laying laminate, but it will significantly speed up the assembly.
  • Measuring tape
  • Angle
  • A pencil or marker
  • Jigsaw. In the absence of a jigsaw. a drill for drilling holes for pipes (diameter 25-40 mm)
  • Scotch tape and a blade for cutting and gluing together the carpet pad for the laminate flooring

If the laminate has an end and a longitudinal or only an end lock “LOC” (hammered), in addition, you will need:

TIP “NOVOPOL”: use only a flat bar (hardwood) with a length of at least 25 cm. The shorter it is, the greater the chance of chipping on the edges of the panel.

trim, laminate, flooring

Some masters (mostly old parquet workers) do not trust the glueless lock design and additionally glue the panels together to increase the strength of the connection and moisture resistance of interpanel joints. We think this step is justified for some types of laminate with a “weak” lock; in other cases the effect of such a procedure is very questionable. But if you still want to make sure, among other things are still needed:

Don’t use regular PVA. Use only special moisture-resistant adhesive for laminate (this glue consists of 60% dry substances and sets very quickly) and do not apply it in the groove, but only on the top part of the spindle.

TIP “NOVOPOL”: It is more practical to use not glue, and a special paste to seal the joints between the panels (locks), which eliminates adhesion, and thus allows you to disassemble the coating, for example, to replace a particular panel.

To begin with, the ease and simplicity of installation and the service life of a laminate floor depends on many factors: first and foremost, how even your “subfloor” will be. Floor irregularities that are more than 2-3 mm per 2 linear meters should be sanded or putty (in “severe” cases it is necessary to level the floor with special self-levelling mixtures or through the levelling cement-sand screed)

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TIP “NOVOPOL”: spending time and effort on preparatory work on the leveling of the surface, you will save them at the very laying, and if you hurry, you may be faced with the fact that laid laminate will sag, walk around, diverge at the seams, etc.д.

So, the laminate must be laid only on the prepared surface:

CLEAN or free from dirt and debris

DRAW or waterproofed from residual moisture

DURABLE or reinforced with a deep penetrating primer

LEVELED or levelled to the required values

  • BETON. The humidity of the concrete base should not exceed 2.5% (in the case of underfloor heating the humidity should not exceed 1.5%, moreover, a special instruction on “laying on underfloor heating” should be followed). If the floor needs to be leveled with a screed, remember that a cement screed dries up for no less than 21 days! Sometimes, in order to speed up the process of floor preparation for partial leveling gypsum mixtures are used. We do not recommend to do so, because such mixes are not designed for flooring, but if you are going to use them, then use them only in SMALL quantities (up to 5 mm layer thickness)

TIP “NOVOPOL”: on concrete (not organic) base it is necessary to lay a waterproofing polyethylene film thickness 0,15. 0.2 mm. At the joints of the strips of film should be laid with an overlap of at least 20 cm and fastened together with tape. Many finishers consider this procedure unnecessary, they say “as long as the laying without the film, no one complained”, but we strongly recommend to heed this advice, especially if since the device of the screed has been less than 4 weeks.

  • LINOLEVER, PVC and other waterproofing can be used as a base for the laying.
  • The WOODEN FLOOR can also be used as a base, but with two conditions: Do not lay the laminate flooring parallel to the old flooring, so lay the laminate panels perpendicularly or diagonally to the old flooring. This step is necessary to get the laminate flooring adapted to the new temperature and humidity conditions under new subfloor conditions nr 2) On wooden floors and other organic subfloors (chipboard, hardboard, particle board, plywood, etc) do NOT apply the laminate flooring to any subfloor.Under no circumstances should you install PVC-film on wooden subfloors or other organic subfloors (chipboard, hardboard, plywood, etc.)!
  • FLOORS that are not impervious to moisture (carpet, nap, felt, etc).п.), MUST BE REMOVED.

Whichever subfloor you have, you must always follow the four points listed in Chapter 2.

Before you start laying, do NOT unpack the packages and let them stand on a flat surface (horizontally) in the middle of the room where the installation will be done for at least 36-48 hours. This step is necessary for the laminate flooring to adapt to the new temperature and humidity conditions. When installing the laminate flooring the room temperature should be at least 18°C, the floor temperature should be at least 16°C, the air humidity should not be less than 70%.

The basic principle of assembling laminate flooring is to follow the “floating” technology of laying which implies that the panels are fastened to each other and are NEVER fixed to the substrate. And since the humidity in the room can vary, for example depending on the season, the flooring must be able to expand (or shrink) in all directions. This expansion is usually about 2 mm per running meter of flooring and the slightest pinch at any point can cause the floor to bulge. So the larger the surface area, the more it expands. For this purpose on the perimeter of all walls PREDICTED TO MAKE A TEMPERATURAL GAP of about 10 mm, ensuring the unimpeded expansion of the decking in all directions. Control the gap when assembling conveniently using special spacing wedges (do not forget to remove them before installing the skirting board). Also need to provide gaps at doorways (at the joints with other types of floors), around pipes and all fixed objects, arches, etc.д. In addition, if the room is longer than 12 m and a width of 8 m to put down the laminate flooring should parts and TO GAP (at least 10 mm), closed subsequently by a special threshold.

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