How to sharpen a garden tool. How to check the quality of a sharpened hacksaw?

How to perform quality sharpening of an axe and not to spoil the tool

How to properly sharpen an axe and not to damage the tool

Sharpening an axe at home is not complicated, the main thing is not to hurry and do everything carefully. Let’s define what kinds of blades exist, what the sharpening angle depends on and what we have to pay attention to when working. We will learn what methods of sharpening exist and their features, how to sharpen by hand and with the electric grinder, and determine the most frequent mistakes.


Before proceeding directly to sharpening, it is necessary to make the setting of the teeth. This is done in order to avoid the blade getting jammed in the material when working and to improve the cutting characteristics of the teeth. If we consider the mechanism of the hacksaw, the setting plays a very important role, as it allows only the teeth to come into contact with the material, and the blade itself does not touch the wood. The wider the setting, the wider the kerf, and the less likely that the tool will be caught in the thickness of the workpiece.

Set value is taken as 1,5-2 thickness of circular saw blade and usually doesn’t exceed 2mm. For dry wood the adjustable pitch is smaller, for fresh or wet wood it is wider. Setting of teeth is carried out by the tool with the same name, which looks like a metal plate with a slit, the width of which is comparable to the width of the saw blade itself. Tooth bending in different directions from the longitudinal axis of the tool. To work comfortably, the saw is clamped in a vice between two wooden blocks, so that only the cutting elements protrude above them. The tooth is not bent at its base, but about halfway along what is known as the deflection line. If you bend the element below this line, you could accidentally break it. Quality control of the work is done by eye. to assess the correctness of the wiring, the canvas is looked at lengthwise into the light. If any teeth protrude from the row, they are corrected with an adjustable filing.

How to sharpen scissors at home on the sharpener: instructions

There is a special sharpener for sharpening scissors. With its help the blades can be made quite sharp. This option is also suitable for scissors that are used at home. The result after the procedure is not bad, but not suitable for sharpening sewing tools.

For sharpening home scissors, you can use a block. This is a piece of stone that is coated with fine abrasive grit. The efficiency of the procedure is not the best, but it allows you to make the scissors sharper.

  • Open the blades as wide as possible and place them on the block
  • Move blade first from top to bottom and then only in one direction
  • This step is the most effective and important, as it allows you to remove small nicks
  • Move the blade in the sharpening direction to the right
  • Repeat the procedure with the second blade

Hacksaw trimmer for lumber

The process of sharpening the teeth of a hacksaw is not complicated. But the tool must be prepared for it. So, before sharpening the wood hacksaw, it is required to make a setting of its sharp ends. This operation is carried out so that the tool can move freely in the material when in use. If it is not set, then the saw will get stuck in the wood. That is why the sawing process will be delayed or it will become an impossible operation.

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Carpenter or carpenter knows very well how to set the teeth of a wood hacksaw. The operation itself is an unbending of the sharp elements of the cutting edge of the saw. They are bent at the same distance and in different directions. In doing so, focus on the desired width of the kerf. To increase it, the teeth are sharpened more. A kerf that is larger than the thickness of the blade will make it easier to remove chips from the blade.

Professionals know how to make the tooth setting on a hacksaw so that the steel blade does not get clamped during the sawing of the lumber. If you bend the sharpened elements to a larger angle, then the chance of the saw jamming is reduced.

If the toothing is not set sufficiently, the hacksaw will always get stuck in the material Source

Saw setting is done to a certain value. It depends on the thickness of the metal from which a particular blade is made. Saw set is usually performed at 0.3-2 mm. The moisture content of the wood also influences the choice of a particular value. After all, you have to saw dry and wet lumber:

  • If the wood is wet, the teeth are bent to a value of 0.5 to 2 mm. The concrete value is chosen depending on the thickness of metal of a cloth.
  • If the wood is dry, the setting is performed at a distance of 0.3-0.5 mm.

To perform the process as accurately as possible, a special device is used. It is a template. It has a specific design for each hacksaw.

After determining the amount of set, specialists usually use a special tool to bend the tines. Some experienced craftsmen use a simple flat screwdriver.

A special tool is the pliers. A serrated flap may also be used in place of the flap forming tool. In the design of a special tool there is a stop and setting, which allows you to adjust the amount of setting manually.

The process itself starts with the fixing of the blade. A vise is usually used for this. Then use the tool to bend the teeth on one side of the hacksaw. Then the process is repeated from the other side of the saw.

Important! When bending out the elements the bending tool is not applied to the sharp edges, but to the center of each tooth.

After all the teeth are set, check their height. It must be the same on all sharp elements of the hacksaw blade. A sheet of paper is often used for checking. Place it firmly against the teeth. On it will remain the marks of those sharp elements, which height is greater than the others. After that the craftsman shortens the long teeth. He usually uses a file for this.


Whenever I talk about this topic, one of the first questions I get asked is, “What tool do you use to sharpen your garden shears?”.

The good news is that you have several options to choose from. Heck, you may already have a sharpening tool on hand that will do the job just fine. Here are a few of the most common ones.

  • A garden tool sharpener is my favorite tool, specifically designed for sharpening garden shears and loppers. I highly recommend this one, especially for beginners.
  • Tool sharpening scissors. If you already have a sharpening tool on hand, you can use that on your scissors too. No need to buy another.
  • Diamond file. Some people prefer to use a simple diamond file. So, if you have experience in using it, it’s great for sharpening garden tools too.
  • Sharpening stone. the blades of pruning shears can be sharpened in the same way as a knife with a sharpening stone.
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Different types of sharpeners for garden tools

What to sharpen with: A variety of materials

Sharpening stones can be divided into materials of natural and artificial origin. Natural stones are slates, quartz, chalcedony and corundum of various kinds and colors (e.g. black Brazilian slate). They grind faster than their synthetic counterparts, the grain size is often uneven and seldom finely. The ceramic and diamond varieties are considered to be artificial.

The hardest and hardest knife sharpener is considered to be a diamond block. Metal or plastic is the basis of the stone and a diamond dusting is applied on top in a very thin layer. This device can not be called cheap, but it will serve for a very long time, because there is practically no grinding. The diamond bar needs time to rub in and produce excellent results, and can be cleaned under a stream of water.

Technological grit sizes are available on the market, e. g. CBN for sharpening. They have a continuous working layer made of cubic boron nitride and are characterized by high hardness and resistance to chemical components of alloys and steels.

The most convenient type of sharpening stone is the elongated block, as it makes sharpening easier. Ideally, the length of the block should be longer than the blade. At home, two medium-grit (various) and one or two fine grit stones are sufficient. The double-grit version, with coarse and finer grit on one side and finer grit on the other (for example, 125/100 grit) has proved to be a good choice.

To improve the quality of sharpening, the natural stone is moistened with water before use (or soaked in it for a short time). Water is absorbed into the structure of the material, and in the process is released and mixed with the particles separated by the pressure of the blade. A mixture of water and abrasive creates a paste that improves the sharpening quality.

Water can be replaced by mineral oil. Knives are always sharpened with oil on Arkansas stone, which has different textures. Hard varieties are used for regrinding and the sharpest sharpening, medium. for tool sharpening, soft. for quick grinding. After work, Arkansas stone is cleaned with a brush, hot water and soap.

Care of garden tools

Tools in the cottage are usually numerous. These are rakes, axes, gaffers, shovels, pruners, hoes, pitchforks, and others. But after use, many people simply toss the equipment into a vacant corner and forget about it until they need it again.

Properly store garden tools in a suspended position

It is very important to store the tool, not just put it in the shed. It should preferably be cleaned and lubricated, and then stored in a wooden box or a special room with the necessary conditions of maintenance, including humidity of air.

It is especially important to clean tools from concrete and plasticizer, which harden quickly and can interfere with further work with them.

Preparing garden tools for the winter

The most important period in preserving the integrity of garden tools is in the fall. When the work on the dacha is already finished, and the season of high humidity and rain begins. Therefore, all tools that will no longer be used are prepared for winterizing.

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It is a good idea to pack garden tools for the winter

The following steps must be taken to do this:

  • Everything you have used should be thoroughly cleaned of soil and vegetation residue. Afterwards, the tools are rinsed in water. To remove moisture from joints as well as dry wooden handles, hold tools outside for 2-3 hours in sunny weather. The wind and heat will do the basic work and dry out any remaining moisture;
  • Metal parts are thoroughly lubricated with special lubricants, which can be bought at any hardware store. You can also use a well-known folk method and apply an oiled rag. In this case, instead of store grease, you can use used machine oil, which is much cheaper;
  • The equipment is then put back in its place of storage. Preferably, it should be racked in a dry and cool place, protected from direct sunlight;
  • Secateurs and similar gardening tools should be oiled very carefully and then packed in their cases or wrapped in cloths and burlap to prevent moisture from getting in;
  • The handles of shovels and rakes should be cleaned of grass and earth, sanded with fine sandpaper and coated with a coat of varnish to prevent the wood from absorbing moisture and to ensure a long life;
  • The gardening tool should be stood upright or suspended if there is no way to put it on the racks. When there is a chance of wetting the floor or high humidity, steel parts should never be allowed to touch. It is desirable to make special trays or hooks.

Some gardeners recommend using a bucket or other container with sand impregnated with specialized mineral oil, which can be bought in stores for gardeners to store small tools. For example, you can use Sage-Kettenoil from Liqui Moly, which is designed to lubricate chain saws.

How to choose a garden pruner?

  • Contact, when one blade is driven behind the branch and under the pressure of the basis (a second blade) cuts it.
  • Flat, when both the stop and the cutting blade exert pressure on the branch or trunk of the plant, evenly and gently cutting it (it).
  • Ratchet, when the two cutting points meet, gently cutting the plant under the pressure of the hand of the master, and then under the action of the spring returns to its original position.
  • Bypass ones, when the blades are like a rim put on a branch and if you guide them along it, you can gently remove all the leaves.
  • Barrel blades, when the blades are fixed on a high handle and allow you to cut even high-positioned branches or crowns.

It is also important, when choosing a garden pruner, to pay attention to the brand. European manufacturers use in their work high quality materials that do not blunt for a long time, do not corrode, are not afraid of moisture or constant contact with hard objects (branches). In addition, they guarantee an exceptional design. This nuance is important for true materials. Landscape designers are used to working with the best tool, which both looks solid, and perfectly copes with the functions entrusted to it.

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