The simplest guide for cutting logs into boards with a chainsaw with your own hands
Amateur carpenters often experience an acute shortage of good hardwood lumber. On sale are mostly coniferous boards and planks. If you need more noble wood, however, you can make a simple guide beam and use it to saw hardwood logs into the desired lumber.
The proposed design is a guide beam, which is screwed to the log. On it slides the guide carriage with the chainsaw attached. Together they create a straight path for the guide bar of the chain saw, resulting in a nearly perfect cut.
Beams can be made from any even planed boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and a width of 150-200 mm. The length of the beam can be anything, depending on which logs need to be split.
The conductor itself is made of plywood and one-inch board, fastened together with screws. It is U-shaped. Its sides are sawn from plywood. Their size is 30×7,5 cm. The top is made of two 12 cm long boards. Their width corresponds to the guide beam. Leave a gap between the top boards when assembling the conductor.
The sides of the conductor are drilled in the center. The holes must be positioned so that they do not protrude below the top boards. In the holes are inserted on both sides of the long bolts, which must be connected with an elongated nut. To keep them from unrolling, they need to be locked. Plywood washers made with a core drill must be used on the bolts before mounting them in the core drill.
The guide bar must be bolted to the chain saw bar with the bolt made from the bolts. To do this the latter is drilled out.
The saw must be able to turn on the axle that connects it to the trolley. To do this, shims cut from plastic are inserted between the conductor and the plywood washers, and everything is lubricated with graphite powder.
The carriage is now completely ready for use. But before that, it is desirable to grind the guide beam so that the sliding on it was with minimum resistance.
To use the device, you need to screw the guide beam with self-tapping screws on the log laid horizontally on a small elevation. If it has an expansion at the beginning it should be filed off. The beam should rest securely with no deflections.
After that the saw is set on the beam by the carriage, and moving along it, cuts the first slab. It is important to check that the rail does not touch the ground. Then the carriage is turned over and the log is cut on the other side. The result is a workpiece with two parallel planes.
Then the workpiece is laid on its side, the guide beam is secured on top, and it is sawn into planks of the desired width. It’s even easier and faster to cut it on a circular table with a parallel stop, since the planes are already shaped on it.
What is the best way to cut?
It is the most convenient tool for sawing boards. Compared with some other power tools it has a higher capacity. But it is worth remembering that circular saws differ in features and applications.
Before you buy a saw, decide for what purpose you will use it. The main use of circular saws is cutting or sawing boards.
When selecting the saw, the depth of the saw must be considered. Circular saws with cutting depths of 30 to 130 mm are available. Know how thick the board will be sawn and choose the saw accordingly.
The choice of blade for your circular saw is also the right thing to do. If you have to make a clean cut, choose a saw blade with a higher cogging frequency. If the teeth are sparsely spaced the work is faster but also much rougher. It is important that a circular saw produces a smooth cut with almost no splinters. Read more about this in my book. Read more about it in the “BOOKS” section.
To start with your circular saw, set the kerf depth equal to the thickness of your board. Thanks to this you can make the most beautiful cut on almost any surface without leaving any marks.
But remember if you make a 90 degree cut the depth of cut will be one, but for a 45 degree cut the depth of cut will be much deeper. Then make sure there is nothing in the way of the blade guard, otherwise it won’t open.
Fix the board, it is necessary that in the process of work it does not slip on the table, this requires a stop along and at the end of the workpiece. By the way, some saws are equipped with a thumb screw, which allows you to set the angle of cut. Circular saws typically have a range of 90 to just under 45 degrees, which allows you to make neat cuts at an angle.
Right hand blade vs Left hand blade
Do not forget about safety precautions when you work with the circular saw. Always wear safety glasses or, better yet, a full face mask. Remember that almost all tools are designed for right handed people, it means that all sawdust and other debris will fly out from under the saw from the left side, so left handed people should be more concerned about the safety of eyes and respiratory tract.
First we make the grid itself, and then the frame of the door.First of all, on a circular saw, dissolve pine boards 25 mm thick into blanks about 1 meter long and about 10 cm wide. These dimensions are still arbitrary and chosen for the convenience of initial processing.
It is preferable to use boards that have already been planed. Otherwise we plan them with the electric planer.
And then we saw into strips on the circular cutter. Note: the thickness of this workpiece determines the thickness of the future grid.
Here we have halved the boards, and the halved boards are about 12 mm thick, so we planed them with the panel plane to a thickness of 10,3 mm.
Set the circular saw table with the special special bevel-cutting carriage. Controlling the caliper of the saw blade outreach, lift it to the height of 5,2 mm, that is, to the height a little more than half of the thickness of the workpiece.
At the base of the movable carriage hook, a 16mm wide tongue is fixed, which determines the width of the bulkhead of the future lattice. The tongue is about 80mm long and 5mm high. First, we set the hook so that the edge of the tongue is at a distance of 25 mm from the circular saw blade. So we set the parameters for the future grid: the width of the bulkheads will be 16 mm, and the size of the empty cells 25×25 mm. Move shuttle stop B to the shuttle and fix it with wing nuts. To find the position for the stop A we use the caliber that has the width of the tongue reduced by the thickness of the kerf of the saw blade. Fix stop A.
Thus formed a groove half a tree depth and width of 16 mm. We put the workpiece with the groove on the tongue of the shuttle, and repeating the steps of forming the outermost cuts and selecting wood between them, we make the second groove.
Remove the guide rail and on the circular saw dissect the workpieces into the 16 mm wide elements of the board.
Using the assembly table, we draw the grid borders with the required dimensions.And, using these borders as a guide, we assemble the grating from the sawn slats. Attention: it is necessary to make sure that all the elements go beyond the marked limits.
Then glue all boards together with PVA glue. For this purpose we separate one strip by one, put a drop of glue on the joints and put the strip back.
Further we make the bevel on the outside of the circular saw, so that the door visually seemed thinner and choose a quarter for the made grating.
You will need:
First we make the grid itself, and then the frame of the door.First of all we sawed the 25 mm thick pine boards with a circular saw and cut them into pieces measuring around 1 meter long and 10 cm wide. These dimensions are arbitrary, so far, and are chosen for convenience of initial processing.
It is desirable to use boards that are already planed. Otherwise, we plan them with an electric planer.
And then we cut it into strips with a circular saw. Attention: the thickness of this blank defines the thickness of the future grating.
In this case we have halved the boards, and the resulting 12mm thick boards are smoothed out to the thickness of 10,3mm on the thickness gauge.
We set the special tenoning carriage on the table of the circular saw. Controlling the protrusion of the saw disk with the caliper, we lift it on height of 5,2 mm, i.e. on height a little bit more than half of the thickness of workpiece.
At the base of the movable hook of the carriage there is a tongue 16 mm wide, which determines the width of the bulkheads of the future grid. The length of the tongue is about 80 mm, the height is 5 mm. At first we set the shuttle so that the edge of the tongue is at a distance of 25mm wide spacer from the saw blade. That’s how we set the parameters of the future lattice: the width of the beams will be 16 mm, and the size of the empty cells 25×25 mm. Move the stop B to the hook and fix it with wing nuts. To find the position for stop A, we use the Caliber with the width of the tongue reduced by the thickness of the kerf of the saw blade. We fix the stopper A.
This way we make the half-tree groove with the depth and width of 16 mm. We put the workpiece with the groove on the tongue of the shuttle, and, following the steps of shaping the outermost grooves and selecting the wood between them, we make the second groove.
We remove the tenoning carriage and use a circular saw to cut the workpieces into 16 mm wide grating elements.
On the assembly table we draw the borders of the grid with the required dimensions.And, guided by these borders from the sawn slats we make a set of the lattice. Attention: it is necessary to make sure that all elements go beyond the outlined boundaries.
After that you can glue all the boards together with PVA glue. For this purpose we consistently separate one strip, put a drop of glue on the joints and put the strip back.
Then we make a bevel on the outside with a circular saw to make the door visually thinner and choose a quarter for the made grating.
Using the lumber
Slats. simple and practical building material. Inexpensive wood is used for production, often pine, which makes the lumber economically affordable. The laths sizes vary widely: from small 10×11 mm bars to 50×50 mm bars. Their cross-section may be rectangular, square, round and triangular. depending on application have lengths from half a meter up to 4-6 meters. In addition to construction work, finishing window and doorways, furniture, fittings laths are used to make fences and pergolas. Mounting laths are widely used to attach parts or structures to the ceiling or walls, as well as in the laying of roofing material or flooring. They are used to make purlins for batten or block house. Mounting laths are usually 20-30 mm thick and 50 mm wide. If they are installed outdoors, the laths must be treated with protection.
The process of producing a guide bar for a hand-held circular saw
On a stationary circular saw make longitudinal and cross cuts of the laminate in order to obtain blanks for the base of the guide rail.
Connect the two boards of laminate along the length, pounding the joint with a mallet, and fill the back side with quick-drying glue.
Deburr the surfaces of the workpieces with an emery wheel on a round holder and wipe with a cloth.
Apply glue to the back surface of the narrow laminate workpiece, press the aluminum channel to the base along its length as a stop and glue the narrow workpiece to the base along the aluminum channel.
Drill holes of the same type in the back of the aluminum channel at regular intervals, boring them on the inside for the screw heads and deburring them on the outside with emery cloth.
Lay the aluminum channel along the narrow strip glued to the base with a guaranteed gap, using two pieces of aluminum channel of the appropriate size.
Apply glue to the contact area between the aluminum channel and the laminate base and press the channel so that the stops will slide freely along the guide rail.
Fix the guide rail with screws, screwing them through the holes in the back of the channel to the base.
Grind the screw ends on the back side of the base with a hand grinder.
Fasten the narrow strip with screws along its length by screwing them into the laminate base. Also, on the reverse side, grind down the ends of the screws with a hand grinder.
Cut to size an aluminum channel, similar to the guide rail. Based on its dimensions, make two parts from the aluminum strip, curved closer to one end twice at right angles. Correct the bends with a hand file.
Mark the large sides of the curved plates and cut along the edges along the entire length of the strip. Deburr and round off the edges.
Make two holes at the base of the plates.
Round off the corners of the aluminum channel strip. We glue the aluminum curved strips to the aluminum channel, focusing on the attachment points on the hand-held circular saw.
Drill holes in the aluminum channel to match the holes in the curved strips. Bolt them together with bolts, nuts and washers, placing bolt heads inside the channel.
Lead the long ends of curved strips into mounting nodes on the circular saw and tighten the wing-nuts. The strip of sandpaper must fit tightly on the side of the circular saw’s working base.
Insert the end of the channel on the circular saw into the groove of the guide rail and cut off a strip from the base, so that its width is equal to the width of the saw’s working base. Adjust the other sides of our fixture as well.
Grind once more with an emery cloth, remove material particles with a brush, wipe the base of the device with a damp napkin.
Glue strips of double-sided adhesive tape to the clean surface of the base along the length. Measure a roll of coarse-grained sandpaper along the width of the base, and tear off the excess width.
Remove the protective film from the adhesive tape and glue the sandpaper strip with the grit outward. Cut them to the length of the base.
We wax the contact surface of the guide rail and the laminate base with paraffin candle and our device is completely ready for use.
Sawing with a manual circular saw
Handheld circular saw is sometimes called “angle grinder”, this is not quite right. angle grinder is initially designed for sawing hard materials, with special cut-off sanding discs. The circular saw is structurally designed for sawing wood, with a circular toothed saw. A few simple ways to work with a manual circular saw for the beginner. There are two basic technological applications for the circular saw, sawing wood along the grain and facing across the grain. In any case the saw movement can only be straight.
For precise straight sawing of sheet materials, it is desirable to make a simple fixture. It consists of a piece of plywood 6 mm thick. and a guide ruler from a wooden bar 15 mm thick and 50-60 mm wide The length of the construction depends on what you plan to saw. It can be the area from 1200 mm to 2500 mm
First we saw off a strip of plywood of the desired length, 50-60 mm wider. more than the width of the circular saw’s base. Insert the guide bar from above, flush with one of the edges. Glue and fasten the rail and fasten with self-tapping screws from below.
Put the device on the sawstand or the edge of the table and saw the outer edge of the plywood, driving the circular saw right up to the guide rail. That’s how we’ll get an even edge that is exactly in the saw’s line of sight. Now we don’t have to calculate the direction of the saw every time. The outer edge of the fixture will align with the saw line.
Prepare the workplace of the two goaders with longitudinal bars. Put the material on the bars and put our saw blade on top. Level the edge of the plywood along the kerf line and clamp the guide to the sheet material with clamps.
When sawing sheet metal, make sure the saw blade does not run into the material to be cut. The easiest way is to put 3-4 boards of equal thickness on the sawstand, and when marking it make the saw pass between the boards. Four bars are convenient because the sawed material will not fall off and the corners will remain intact.
For sawing long boards in width you can use the standard stop that comes with the circular saw. Lay the board on the sawhorse and secure it with a clamp. Then mark out width of part to be sawn off and set guide stop by size. It is more difficult to saw with such a stop than with the ruler, it is necessary to control the saw’s motion all the time to prevent it from tilting. Other woodworking tools.
When cross-cutting, cross-cutting boards, it often happens that material pokes out. To minimize material shear, set the depth of the saw to the thickness of the board plus the saw’s tooth length. That way the saw will go into the massif more hollow and its shearing will be less. There are other methods of sawing without chipping, e.g. sawing through half the thickness of the plate from both sides. But it does not always give a good result, more often the teeth of the saw tear the material at the exit of the massif.
Circular saw, is one of the basic tools for woodworking. There are three basic things a circular saw does: cutting boards into blanks to fit the width, sawing boards to fit the length (crosscutting), and sawing at an angle. The latter method is useful if the circular saw is adjustable not only in height, but also in setting angle. There is another necessary, albeit intermediate, operation, sawing the board by thickness. For example, you have a board 70 mm thick. and it needs to be split into three boards of 18-20 mm thick. Or what I have to do most often, boards of thickness 45-50 mm dissolve into strips 18-20 mm thick which I use in furniture production.
What it will take:
In the first place it is very desirable to have a circular saw with adjustable height of the saw. It might be difficult to saw such materials as beech, oak, birch to the full height of the saw at once. So sometimes you have to do it in two or three passes, gradually increasing the height of kerf.
Secondly, you can work this way only with planed board. If the workpiece is sufficiently flat, it may be enough to pass one pass on the planer and the edges of the board.
The third thing you should also pay attention to, the board should not be too short. If the saw jams and the board plays, you can lose your fingers. This is not a joke, I know cases like this.
Let’s cut the planks into thin strips.
Here planed plank thickness of 50 mm is dissolved into three laths 12 mm thick When calculating do not forget to take into account the width of the kerf, that is the thickness of the saw at the extreme points of separation. Also note, after sawing the finished planks should be planed on the jointer, or better yet on a RASMUS machine. That’s why you need a thickness reserve of at least a couple of millimeters.
In this case we have roughly the following calculation: Set the saw to 14 mm. from the guide ruler, a total of three strips will turn out 141414=42 mm Plus two kerf widths, here the saw’s pitch is 3,5 mm That is all dimensions are at the limit, so we have to work carefully.
The width of the board is 120 mm, but these measurements refer to this workpiece. We will saw from both sides on the edges. To saw a board in two passes, the height of the saw must be a little more than half the width of the board. In this case the height of the saw from the table of the circular saw is 65 mm
One more point, the guide bar must be sufficient height, for example 70-80 mm to the board at sawing has not fallen.
Two Chainsaw Secrets | Turning a Tree into Perfect Boards
Make the first kerf carefully, making sure your hands are always higher than the saw. Never use your hands to push the board under the saw, use wooden pushers.
Then we turn the board vertically and make counter cutting. The first board is 14mm thick. is ready.
Then put the remaining panel with the planed side facing the guide rail and make the next cut. We turn the workpiece over again and saw along the depth on the back side.
Do not relax for a second when working, listen to the sound of the saw. If it starts to wedge, reduce feed rate. When sawing the output board may clamp. If saw is not sharp enough, or the tip is too small, the material will burn. When it burns, it is not very good, the saw overheats and can be run over, and the smell is extremely unpleasant. Article, how to saw plywood.
That’s why I wrote in the beginning of the article, if the material is heavy, then it makes sense to pass the part in two heights on each side. And never forget, the circular saw is a dangerous tool. So use all the protection and clamping devices that are available.
How to work with a circular saw
A ruler with a stop or a bar
If you have to cut a straight strip from the board, a guide ruler with a stop is a helpful aid. It can be mounted very quickly at the front edge of the circular saw’s cutting table and makes sure that it runs exactly in the right direction.
If you want to straighten the edge of the board or cut a very narrow or wide strip from it, narrower or wider than the guide bar and its stop will allow, you need another guide bar. It is not difficult to make it yourself. For this, you need to cut one or two slats from 12mm thick plywood. Solid wood slats are not suitable at all, because the wood warps over time.
Mark these plywood strips so that they cannot be sawed off or thrown away by mistake, and hang them on the wall. But beware: plywood also warps if stored improperly!
The guide bar is attached to the circular saw’s platform and moves with it, resting with its bent end on the end of the workpiece.
A plywood strip, about 10 cm wide, serves as a guide and universal stop for your hand-held circular saw.
With a slat
Some manufacturers offer circular saws that come complete with a lightweight metal guide bar that helps guide the saw with great precision. A special clamping fixture secures the circular saw table to the profiled edge of the strip, which gives the saw its own direction and prevents it from slipping to the side. These are more reliable than a ruler and stop rail or a plywood guide bar that can cause the saw to tip to the side.
The saw blade guide plate does not allow the circular saw blade platform to touch the workpiece. This means that any dirt that might appear on the base of the platform while the saw is in use will at most scratch the guide bar, but not the part itself.
Slats of various lengths are available on the market.
If the need arises for a particularly long stop, several of these slats can be connected one after the other using special fasteners.
Angle stops are a useful adjunct to these cross-cutting guides and allow parts to be sawn at any angle.
A wide slat made of light metal acts as a guide for the circular saw.
Self-made cross jig
If you need to saw a board crosswise to a width of only 15 cm, the guide strip 80 and even more 120 cm long is more of a hindrance than a helper. In such cases you either avoid the guide bar or work with a shorter and easier stop.
You can make one yourself and use it for many purposes. You will need a piece of plywood about 25 cm x 30 cm and two 5 cm x 2 cm wooden planks.
Fix a strip approx. 40 cm long at the bottom on the short side of the plywood panel and fix a second strip approx. 30 cm long at right angles to the first one on the long side of the panel.
The resulting fixture should rest on the narrow long side of the board. The side edge of the plywood plate serves for marking, and the short plank serves as a guide for the circular saw. The tool should be set so that the sawing blade moves near the marking edge of the plywood plate.
It is convenient to use a homemade stop to mark at right angles to the long side of the workpiece.
Thanks to a homemade device the cutting disk moves exactly according to the marking.
Wall cladding boards. the work is laborious, but it can be accelerated if the bars for the crate to be sawed to size by bundles of five or six pieces at once. However, a sheaf several meters long may turn out to be very “unyielding”. To “tame” it, you should use two or three screw clamps or cinches to fix the selected planks and additionally fix the entire bundle on the workbench. This is necessary because both hands must be free to operate the circular saw.
It would be very inconsiderate to hold the bundle with one hand and guide the saw with the other. Any obstacle in its path, be it a knot or a clump of resin, could cause the cutting disc to suddenly jam. In this case the shifting of the bundle is inevitable and it is unlikely that someone will be able to hold it with one hand. And that means that it is impossible to saw all the slats precisely.
In short, if you intend to saw more than one piece at a time, make sure the bundle is sturdy and firmly supported on the workbench. For particularly long slats that protrude beyond the workbench, additional support is needed so that none of the slats springs or slips out of the overall bundle.
Several bars assembled in a bundle are clamped with screws and fastened to the workbench. As a result, a single pass of the circular saw is enough to perfectly align the ends of the slats.
Homemade guide plate
The plywood guide bar, which is used as a parallel stop, makes sawing much easier. However, it is even more convenient to work with a guide plate, which the home handyman can, without much cost, make himself.
To do this, you’ll need a piece of elongated plywood (120 x 30 x 0.5 cm) and a plank of carpentry board (100 x 12 cm). Both parts are glued (for reliability, the joint can be secured with plug-in spikes), after which the thin plywood stripe is sawn off with a circular saw, running along the stop.
This simple device allows you to cut a part exactly to the specified size, without first measuring the distance between the cutting disc and the base plate and making a marking on the part.
If a large-diameter drill hole is made in the guide plate, it can be hung on the wall of the workshop. This way, the tool will always be at hand and you can use it at any time without spending time looking for it. In addition, this method of storage will prevent the plate from warping later on. Coat your new implement with colored varnish so it won’t be confused with an ordinary piece of plywood or used for any other purpose.