How to remove the gear with an electric screwdriver motor

RS-550 motor for Makita and Bosch screwdrivers for 5.99

550w Max. Torque 5kg.cm Rated Torque 2kg.cm

You can remove. I bought the motor with the pinion, but it’s deeper on the shaft. Had to lift. I made a simple construction. a piece of water pipe, a slot on one side for the shaft, opposite the hole for the bolt. The end of the bolt was previously ground into a cone. Bolt in the hole in the nut, shaft in the slot and under the bolt. Screw the bolt in. the bolt presses on the shaft. the pinion lifts up. No need to heat anything. Goes like clockwork. The bolt can not be ground but put a small ball of bearing or something similar between the shaft and the bolt.

But it’s worse to press it in. There’s a risk of damaging the shaft.

I bought the motor for my Chinese 21 V electric screwdriver. It is excellent, fast delivery, choice of pinion, tight fit on the shaft, six months of intensive work after replacement. good flight!

The only time I needed to take it off was when I used a gas torch and the bronze end cap came right off with a pair of tweezers maybe I got lucky.

up: already answered below I will update the page, I will.

This engine is suitable for tinkering, not for repairing branded electric screwdriver. If you need a working tool. then choose in the same form factor at least on the ball bearings and a cooling fan near the collector, on Ali there are options (predictably more expensive, but at least have a chance to work longer than a couple of battery discharges).

4-5 mm) and a depth of a centimeter. Farther is prepared a jig with a diameter a little less than motor shaft (the shank of killed drill by 3,5 mm for 4mm shaft is cut off) and a hammer. Gear along with the end of the shaft is heated by a burner to 200 degrees (put a ball of solder on the pinion pos-61, as floated. enough heat), then inserted into the slot, put the nail and one clear blow of a hammer problem solved.

Bormashinka-graver of an electric screwdriver with his hands

In this article I want to show how I made an interesting thing out of an old unwanted electric screwdriver. You can certainly buy a ready graver on aliexpress from 1000, but we’re not on this site for that gathered, really?

Boromachine, engraver, analogue of dremel. In other words, a universal hand tool that allows you to drill, saw, grind, sand, and perform many other tasks. Not only would the unit have a smooth adjustment, but it would also automatically increase the RPM when there is a load on the shaft.

For many years I had an 18 volt electric screwdriver like this.

The button burned out, the batteries have also outlived their life. Why not give it a second life. Also, one of the reasons why I wanted to get rid of it is that it is very heavy and uncomfortable in the hand. The battery moves forward here and I think that’s a terrible design decision. It’s hard to remove and often jams.

To find the same new battery or at least replace the banks translates into half the cost of a new electric screwdriver, so without regret proceed to disassembly.

So I got the main parts. The RS550 motor here consumes about 1.5 amps at idle and accelerates to about 20,000 rpm./min., naturally without load.

There is a planetary reduction gear with two gears between motor and chuck, it reduces speed by 12 times if I am not mistaken.

The motor shaft drives the first stage which consists of plastic satellite gears. In the middle of the second stage there is an intermediate piece that turns the second stage, where the steel satellites already are.к. the torque increases here. The largest part. the corona pinion has a knoll on its face and the balls are in special holes in the housing. When the torque regulator is rotated, these balls extend or sink, thereby blocking the crown gear or allowing it to slip with a characteristic crackle. This is why the mechanism is called the “ratchet”. Это я рассказал вкратце, и на самом деле половина деталей мне не понадобятся.

remove, gear, electric, screwdriver, motor

Then I decided to simplify the construction and to do this I had to remove the chuck. There is a screw inside. This screw is non-standard and unscrew clockwise. But you can’t just take the chuck off.к. it also has a thread, which is already classical. After unscrewing the screw, in the chuck clamp any L-key and sharply need to hit it, counterclockwise (gear lock). Note: some of the steps described in the article will be more understandable from the video on BlowtorchTV.

Now I will explain the point of alteration. If you attach any chuck directly to the motor, this is not correct, t.к. The motor has no bearings as such, just brass bushings. With frontal loads, such as drilling, there will be wear and tear on these bushings followed by backlash. Therefore, the use of a reducer is mandatory. All of the load will be applied to it, or rather to its bearing. My simplification is that the gear on the motor shaft will only rotate one group of satellites, i.e.е. I’ll leave only one step. Also the crown gear width has to be shortened.

remove, gear, electric, screwdriver, motor

Ok, everything is ready and the parts are cleaned. The crown gear was sawed with an angle grinder and ground. Now it will not protrude.

Instead of screwing the second half of the housing to the motor, I prepared an adapter plate. It was hand filed out of stainless steel.

To prevent the gears from clinging to the screws, was made of fluoroplastic. Also, the crown gear was locked from spinning.

Because I left only one stage in the gearbox, the speed increased, but the torque decreased, but that’s okay, because the drill is not used for screwdriving. The revised gearbox has six motor revolutions per chuck rotation, i.e.е. Reduces by a factor of 6. The chuck speed will be high enough for drilling, sawing and grinding. And the fact that the reducer still slightly reduces the engine speed I think this is a plus.к. the load on the motor is reduced and the life of the motor is not affected. The whole “ratchet” mechanism is completely removed from the design, it is not needed.

I will make the body from a 50 mm plastic tube. On the adapter plate, I provided lugs to attach the tube. They need to be bent. Originally I had the idea to cut the handle from the original body, but it is too thick and there is no room for the electronic stuffing.

Perhaps I have paid too much attention to the mechanics, but some information will help those who have decided to repair an electric screwdriver. Now to the electronic part.

I tried many different motor control circuits. All this was assembled and tested for a long time. I used pulse width modulation to control the motor. No need to go into too much detail about PWM, this topic is pretty well covered. In brief, it is a power control, by changing the pulse duty cycle.

Roughly speaking there is a rectangular signal in which we increase or decrease the length of pulses, by the same amount change the pause between them. The frequency is unchanged. The result is a smooth adjustment of the speed from zero to 100%.

Circuit diagram. Click to enlarge.

I decided to build a motor control circuit on an LM324. All 4 operational amplifiers of the IC are used here. On the elements of DA1.1, DA1.2 assembled a triangular signal generator. The frequency of this oscillator is easy to change by adjusting the capacitor C3. In my case the capacitance is 2.2 nF, which sets the PWM frequency to about 1.5 kHz. This triangular signal from the output of the second element, that is pin number 7, goes to the non-inverting input of the element DA1.3. On its other input we see a group of resistors that set the voltage, in particular variable resistor R3 is precisely designed to change the PWM. But how does this PWM signal come out?? The point is that the element DA1.3 is connected as a comparator and it compares the triangular signal with the voltage we set with a variable resistor R3. When the signal level on pin 10 is higher than the voltage on pin 9, then the output of this comparator is high and vice versa.

From a chart it is visible, that points of intersection of two input signals and designate, so to speak, frameworks of an output rectangular signal. Note that with pulse width modulation frequency remains the same, and varies only the duty cycle of the signal, in simple words, the duration of the enabled state and the pause between them. Below are the oscilloscope readings. The signal is taken directly from the output of the chip.

So, on pin 8 we have a changeable PWM signal, which through the SB1 “start” button goes to the power part of the circuit. The signal current value is small so any clock button will do. You can solder a toggle switch in parallel with it if you do not want to keep the button depressed during operation.

The power section has not just one transistor but two powerful MOSFETs in parallel. I like this configuration very much.к. It has a large power reserve and does not heat up at all. I also strongly recommend to put a diode in parallel with the motor (VD3). It not only protects against inductive surges, but oddly enough, it also reduces heat. During the tests I tried one MOSFET and I ignored this diode and as a result the transistor got very warm and some of them failed.

At low speeds, you can hear the squeak, t.к. PWM frequency is in the audible range. Although in principle, an electric screwdriver beeps the same way, but it doesn’t bother me personally. I don’t recommend to raise the frequency above 2-3 kHz. At high frequencies the field effect transistors will get very hot.

If you have a problem with under-adjustment, t.е. if the potentiometer is in extreme position and the duty cycle has not yet reached its minimum or maximum, you can adjust the resistance of R2 and R4. They are responsible for the lower and upper limits.

When you organize the power supply, you should primarily start from the parameters of the motor. I have it at 18V, but it gives acceptable power already at 10V. Note that the motor current is taken directly from the plus side of the power supply and fed through a thick wire. And on the control circuit voltage comes through the LM7805 (DA2) with an output of 5 V. This gives stability and allows you to keep a constant value on the resistive divider, for example, if a voltage sag occurs when you load the motor.

We covered the basic function of this circuit but there’s more. At the fourth Op-Amp (DA1.4) I decided to implement an additional function. The original idea of stabilizing the motor speed has been replaced by a new idea. automatic speed increase.

For example, suppose you want to make a hole in wood, plastic, a board or other material. When you do this with an electric screwdriver, you usually start drilling at a low RPM. And when the drill has concentrated to the required point, you can increase the pressure on the button and continue at high speed. Drill bits, unlike screwdrivers, are not equipped with such a button, but only with a speed regulator. If you try to start at high RPM, the drill is sure to jump and you will get a hole that is offset from the designated point. The circuit I propose will automatically increase the speed when the load (applied to the chuck).

In order to implement this function, it is necessary to monitor the change in current consumption of the motor. For this purpose the circuit has a shunt R15. It is a low impedance powerful resistor that carries the current from the source to the motor. The resistance of this resistor is very low, only 0,1 Ohm and the loss is negligible. The current passing through the shunt, creates a voltage drop on it. In idle mode this is about 0.2 volts. This voltage is repeatedly raised by a differential amplifier, built, as I said, on the element DA1.4. The boosted signal comes off pin 14 and controls the optocoupler. Optocoupler U1, in my case PC123. The controlling part. is the LED, and in the role of the host. phototransistor. For convenience, I have separated them in the schematic and labeled them U1.1, U1.2.

To turn on this mode you need to close the switch SA1. So the LED, when turned on the phototransistor opens and short-circuits the middle pin of the potentiometer to the outermost. The PWM signal quadrature decreases sharply and the speed increases. This is demonstrated in the video.

The triggering is set with the trimmer R19. The first thing to do is to set the speed controller (resistor R3) to a position where the chuck speed is minimal and start drilling comfortably (t.е. to position the drill in the point). Use trimmer resistor R19 to set tripping torque. As soon as the chuck would get a load on it (like a drill, cutter, etc) I had to put the pins of the optocoupler on the top of the chuck and it was ready to go. to the surface), the rpm will increase sharply. The voltage adjuster R19 actually sets the response voltage of the optocoupler, and the LED at the optocoupler turns on already at 1,2 volt.

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The control board in its final form looks like this.

As always the soldering is done on a piece of the circuit board. Because of small space in the case, it was necessary to place everything tightly, and there wasn’t even enough space for normal capacitor on power supply. Also, at the last minute I remembered about the optocoupler, which I had to place with the pins upwards. There is a whole bunch of wires coming off the board. PWM signal, power supply wires, to the switch, to the button and to the current sensor.

The power part of the circuit is on a separate board. Here we see two powerful IRF3205 MOSFETs connected in parallel. And also the same wiring, three elements per transistor. The joints are reinforced with wire and solder. In general the module has a large margin, t.к. the claimed maximum on these transistors is 110 amps.

After placing the thermocouple on the heat sinks, I measured the temperature. I put a load on the cartridge, but the multimeter showed no appreciable heating. The transistors remained at room temperature.

I also spent a lot of time with the case. The material was a 50 mm piece of pipe and a blind plug.

On the inside you can see the partition to separate the boards. The control board fits snugly into the lower compartment and is secured with the potentiometer nut. There is also a hole for the LED. The power board will be mounted on top. Later it turned out that the shunt did not fit, so I had to redo it a bit.

Т.к. the transistors don’t get warm at all there is no need for a big radiator, I screwed a small part to the heat sinks.

Here you can see two halves of the case. All connections soldered, I added a switch. I used a power wire with large cross section (mains wire).

So, here is the device. The body of the tool is reliable, it does not squeak and does not flutter.

The tool can be held in the hand in two ways, the left option is suitable for precision work, the right. for power.

I could not find a suitable power supply, so I used a 12 volt lead battery for the power supply during the test. Not considering the starting currents, the consumption during operation was less than 1.5. 2 А.

The chuck allows me to drive drill bits starting from 0.8 mm. Good enough for drilling circuit boards.

I used the diamond wheel to cut off plastic, plexiglass and metal.

With attachments, the capabilities of this tool increase many times over.

For example different burrs, cutters, grinding and polishing nozzles.

That’s all, the whole process of making this useful tool was shown. I recommend watching the video on BlowtorchTV about this modification.

Screwdriver motors Select merchandise

DC motor (DS) for screwdrivers and other cordless and power tools. the converter of electrical energy into mechanical energy. The motor consists of a stationary part, the stator, and a correspondingly movable part, the armature. At the collector motors the electric current in a closed loop creates a magnetic stream, through brushes to an anchor creates rotation interacting with windings. The power is withdrawn via the armature shaft, on which the driving gear is mounted.

Can the gearwheel on the electric screwdriver motor be changed independently

By yourself it is possible to eliminate this problem, but the operation is quite complicated (because of the fragile node, which must be removed from the thin shaft), and you need to do everything very carefully, because there is a risk of breaking off the teeth. Then you must buy a new pinion.

Important! An additional difficulty is that a suitable gear can not be found in stores with electrical parts, and therefore you will have to buy the entire electric motor, which is already equipped with the necessary assembly.

You can remove the gear from an electric screwdriver motor (for example, a “Bosch” model) by yourself, using a lighter and pliers, or a thin U-shaped piece of metal. But this option is not recommended by specialists, because there is a risk of damaging the teeth.

The second way is more preferable. use a special puller, which you will have to make yourself or buy in a store Each option has its own disadvantages, which are worth considering before you start working.

Electric screwdriver device

All screwdrivers have essentially the same design. The following functional units are used to make them:

  • On/off buttons (“Start”);
  • pulse width regulators;
  • electric motors;
  • transistors;
  • planetary gears.

Sturdy and aesthetically pleasing housing allows each component to be securely fastened. It has a rubberized handle, a regulator (control button) and a connector for the battery. The power source for the screwdrivers is a rechargeable battery with a varying capacity within the range of 9 to 18 V. At the same time, the screwdrivers operating on 220 V mains do not have a battery.

Often users are faced with the problem of squeaking in the device when starting. This is due to the peculiarity of the AC motor, when it runs at low speed at startup.

How to remove DC motor gear to save money! Replaced Bosch motor with Makita motor for 10.8V drill!

Electric motor. Is the main element of the device. In this tool, as a rule, single-phase collector DC motors are used. They are characterized by reliability, ease of manufacturing and maintenance. The design of such a motor is as follows: the body on which the magnets, armature and brushes are located.

The electric motor is powered by a direct current from the mains or battery. The motor is cylindrical and has an armature with brushes and magnets. This circuitry involves redirecting the voltage supply to the brush unit. By reversing the polarity to be supplied, the voltage contributes to the reversal of the motor.

Start button. This is the key that starts the electric screwdriver. It is needed to turn on the power circuit in an electric motor. When the button is pushed, the motor power supply circuit is closed by the contacts, thus producing the maximum output. It also controls the RPM to select the optimum speed. A stronger pressure makes it possible to increase the number of revolutions. That is, a stronger push will increase the engine speed and a weaker push will reduce the power.

Reverse. The purpose of the reversing switch is to allow the screwdriver motor to perform alternating rotation operations. The convenience of this functionality lies in the possibility not only to screw in screws, but also to unscrew them.

Effort regulator. allows you to set the speed at which the screws are tightened. The latest models have an adjustable 16-step grading system that makes it possible to determine the tightening speed required for different materials with the greatest precision and convenience.

Planetary gears. Also referred to as important parts of power tools. They convert the movement from the high-frequency vibrations of the motor shafts into a low-frequency movement on the chuck shafts. Wear-resistant metal or plastic is often used for these parts. Many wrenches have a two-speed gearbox. So, to drive a self-tapping screw, for example, you have to use the first speed. For drilling in wood, plastic, or metal, use the second speed.

It is worth noting that planetary and classic types of reducers are used for the manufacture of screwdrivers. The latter are rarely enough used, in connection with this special importance should be given to the planetary type. Parts of the planetary gearbox:

  • ring gear;
  • Solar gear, which is attached to the motor shaft;
  • Satellites and the driver (their number is determined by the number of stages: there can be 2 and 3 stages).

How to change the pinion on an electric screwdriver motor

An electric screwdriver is a useful tool that is often used in construction jobs to speed up the. Breakdowns on this type of device are not uncommon, and therefore you need to know how to fix them. One of the most common problems, which is also the most difficult to fix, is how to remove the gear on an electric screwdriver motor. The article will describe in detail how to do this with improvised means or using a special puller.

Gear wheel on the electric screwdriver motor

How to remove the chuck from an electric screwdriver

The method of extraction also depends on the types of attachment:

  • Morse taper. Shaft and cylinder surfaces have the same taper;
  • fixing screw, where cross head and left-hand threading;
  • Threaded. the cylinder is screwed onto the shaft.

The marking on the tool will help you determine the type of attachment.

B7, B10, B12, B16, B18, B22, B24, B32, and B45 are Morse taper sizes. The size of the matching shank of the bits is indicated next to it (e.g., 1-6).

1.0-11 M12x1,25. example of thread marking, where 1.0-11 is shank size range in mm, and M12x1,25. thread characteristics. Foreign models may have the following designation. 2-13 mm ½-20 UNF, which stands for similar, only the diameter of the bit in inches.

Important! The chuck should not be removed immediately after using the electric screwdriver. It must be cool.

Using an allen key to remove the device with a fixing screw. How and in what direction to unscrew:

  • Unclench the cams as much as possible.
  • The threads are usually left handed, which means to twist the screw clockwise.
  • Insert the wrench into the cams and turn it counterclockwise with force. You can additionally use a hammer.

You can try to remove the head just by holding it with your hand. To do this, after removing the screw, you must clamp the chuck with your hand and, with the low speed of rotation, make a jerk to the left. Sometimes this is enough.

Cordless Drill Gearbox interesting Repair !. Won’t Tightening

With the Morse taper type fastener just hit the chuck with a hammer towards the base of the bit and it will come off.

  • Insert the hexagon socket (10mm) with the short end into the cylinder and tighten the set screw jaws firmly.
  • Switch on the tool at low rpm for a few seconds so that the free end of the wrench hits a solid support.
  • Remove the chuck.

If the above methods do not work, dismantle the appliance. Then take out the shaft with the gear and the chuck and use a pipe wrench to remove this cylinder.

Replacing the bearing

During fault diagnosis, increased rotor bearing play is a common defect. They must be replaced to avoid more trouble.

When replacing the rotor bearings in your DWT angle grinder at home, the following video uses any available means. Use a metal screwdriver and wrench to press out the rotor with the flare inside the gear housing. This is not very convenient, but it achieves its purpose in the end.

In the following video the method of unscrewing the fastening of the fixing plate to the bearing gear housing through the technological holes in the impeller is further developed. Since the impeller is plastic, it is effective to pierce the holes with a heated rod, e.g. a nail. To save the balance, it is recommended to make two holes at once.

How to remove the gear with a screwdriver motor

The most popular device for any homeowner is the screwdriver. But it happens that the device fails. Of course, if you make an effort, you can use an electric drill as an alternative. However, doing delicate work where an electric drill cannot be used will require the repair of a special screwdriver. But to save time and your household budget, it is best to repair the screwdriver with your own hands. To do this properly, it is necessary to study its structure and become familiar with the principles of operation of each individual unit of the tool.

Screwdriver device

All screwdrivers have essentially the same design. The following functional units are used to make them:

  • on/off (“start”) buttons
  • pulse width regulators;
  • electric motors;
  • Transistors
  • planetary gears.

The robust and aesthetically optimized housing ensures that each component is securely mounted. It has a rubberized handle, a handle (control button) and a connector for the battery. The power source of the screwdrivers is a rechargeable battery of different capacity, from 9 to 18 V. In addition, for screwdrivers operating from 220 V mains, there is no battery.

Often users encounter the problem of a script on the device when starting it. This is due to the peculiarity of the AC motor, when it starts at low speeds at startup.

Electric motor It is the main element of the device. This tool usually uses single-phase DC motors. They are characterized by reliability, ease of fabrication, and maintenance. The construction of this motor looks as follows: housing, magnets, armature and brushes.

The motor is operated by DC current from the mains or battery. The motor has a cylindrical shape with an armature consisting of brushes and magnets. This electric circuit provides the power for the brush assembly. By reversing the polarity of the power supply, the voltage contributes to the reversal of the motor.

Start button. This key starts the screwdriver. The power circuit of the motor must be on. When the button is pressed, the power circuit in the motor begins to close with the contacts, resulting in maximum power. This also controls the speed to select the optimum speed. A more powerful press allows the speed to be increased. That is, when pressed harder, the motor speed increases, and when pressed less, the power decreases.

Reverse. The function of the reverse switch is to perform the operation of changing the rotation of the screwdriver motor. The convenience of this functionality is not only the ability to tighten the screws.

Power regulator. allows you to set the speed of the screws. Today’s models include a 16-step adjustable graduation, allowing you to accurately and conveniently determine the frequency of lag required when working with different materials.

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Planetary gearbox. Also called important elements of power tools. They convert movements from high-frequency oscillations of the motor shaft into low frequencies on the cartridge shafts. Wear-resistant metal or plastic is often used to make these parts. Many screwdrivers have two-speed gearboxes. For example, in order to tighten a screw, you must use the first speed. The second speed should be used to drill wood, plastic or metal bases.

It is worth noting that planetary and classic gear types are used to make screwdrivers. The latter are seldom used, so particular importance should be given to the planetary type. Planetary gear parts:

  • ring gear;
  • The sun gear is mounted on the motor shaft;
  • Satellites and carriers (their number is determined by the number of steps: there can be 2 and 3 steps).

In principle, this functional element is quite simple. The operation of the solar reducer is due to the fact that the shaft of the fixture drives it. Through the cogs, the satellites begin to rotate, transmitting the momentum of the carrier. The two-stage cartridge shaft gears are connected to the second holder, and the three-stage gears. With a third.

Cartridge This element is attached to a connector on the output shaft of the gearbox. It is equipped with three clamping jaws to effectively hold the part.

Faults occurring in the screwdriver

Most modern screwdrivers have a standard uniform. For this reason, they all have the same drawbacks. Among the major defects that indicate device failure are problems with:

  • battery failure;
  • brush wear and tear;
  • broken buttons;
  • cartridge battering;
  • failed on/off attempts;
  • interruptions.

How to make remove the gears from the motor with one minute. KST HACKS

Each such breakdown can easily be repaired on its own with experience using measuring and soldering devices. Keep in mind that in some situations a complete unit replacement may not be possible, as not every item is sold separately.

Make your own screwdriver repair

To troubleshoot the device, you need to disassemble it by removing the housing and disconnecting the main elements of the device. Repairs to any piece of equipment can be divided into several steps. In the case of the screwdriver it is as follows. In addition, in each case, the repair steps may differ depending on the cause of the malfunction to be repaired.

Dismantling

Screwdrivers are sorted in the following order:

  • The battery is removed (if the product design provides for this).
  • The screws connecting the two parts of the case are loose.
  • The top part is removed.
  • received.
  • The button is turned off.
  • Speed switch removed.
  • Motor, transmission, adjustable clutch and cartridge off.

How to repair a cartridge

The cartridge for each specific model of screwdriver is different from similar elements of other models. The main distinguishing feature is the way the cartridge is attached:

To determine the mounting method, it is best to use the markings attached to the cartridge sleeve:

  • The “1-6 B10” marking value indicates the method of attaching the Morse taper.
  • “1.0-11 M12x1.2” or “2-13 mm ½-20 UNF” indicates metric or inch threads.

If the cartridge is attached with a thread, there are a number of steps to take:

  • Release each cam on the cartridge.
  • If there is a screw, unscrew it.
  • Tighten the hex L wrench (10mm) short with the chuck.
  • Start and unscrew the low-speed screwdriver so that the long edge of the hex key falls on the table. To avoid turning the unit on, you just need to hit the hexagon several times with a hammer. This will move the thread and twist the cartridge.

If not, you can take the screwdriver apart and remove the gearbox. Just use an L-shaped tubular wrench (often “19”) to unscrew the cartridge, attaching the gearbox mounting bolt to the other nuts. They give you the necessary guidance, allowing you to easily unscrew the cartridges by hand.

When disassembling the cartridge, the cover at the base is removed. Carefully remove the plastic plugs with a knife. Metal should be hammered into the base of the cartridge:

  • A large bolt should be provided in advance, which should be fastened in the cartridge and pressed down with a light force to perform the alignment. The head of the bolt should be more than 2-3 cm above the chuck.
  • Next, hit the head of the bolt with a hammer. The cartridge should pop out of the holder.

How to remove the gear from an electric screwdriver motor

Buy a motor for an electric screwdriver. a large selection of motors for branded and Chinese screwdrivers. Low Cost. Easy to navigate.

Let’s talk about the main components of the tool.

No doubt the most necessary, popular and often used tool in everyday life is an electric screwdriver. This is a very reliable, but at the same time convenient and not large-sized tool, thanks to which you will perform a number of household works. Namely: unscrewing or screwing screws, self-tapping screws, drilling small holes. So, an electric screwdriver is often used by us in the home, and because of our active use we subject the tool to significantly high loads, and the main load falls on the motor. It is the motor of an electric screwdriver 18V suffers most in conditions of active use of it, so it risks to be the first to break down, and of course, this will happen at the most inappropriate moment. And the motor of a cordless electric screwdriver is at risk of failure in any model, regardless of its price. You must understand that any technique can wear out, so you need to monitor its condition and in time to replace the HRS-550 electric screwdriver motor that fails.

There are several reasons for failure of an electric screwdriver motor:

  • Engine brushes. It is easy to check whether the brushes are not out of order. To do this you need to disconnect it using the button and connect a multimeter to its wires. An indication that the brushes are worn will be the absence of low resistance. So the brushes of an electric screwdriver just need to be replaced. To do this, separate the back cover of the motor from the body of the electric screwdriver. There are models where you can easily replace the brushes without disassembling the motor.
  • Anchor. If you notice any hissing or squeaking during your work with the electric screwdriver, it means that the motor armature bushings are worn out. You can add a little more life and extend the life of the HRS-550 cordless electric screwdriver motor by putting a drop of oil on the bushings and turning the motor on. But it’s worth remembering that it won’t last long and the motor will have to be replaced anyway.
  • Physical damage or problems with the sprocket. In the first case a complete replacement, in the second you can remove and replace just one gear.

Buy with a gear or change it yourself?

When buying a motor for an electric screwdriver is important to decide for yourself to take it already with a gear or buy without it, and reposition from the old. Of course this way you can save some money, but you should understand that removing the gear with an electric screwdriver is quite difficult, which is done without a special puller is almost unrealistic. So you have a choice, and how to dispose of them can decide only you, from our side we sell and ready-made gear and without it.

Where can I buy a motor that is suitable for your model of electric screwdriver and will serve for a very long time? In our online store Benzograd.com.ua specialists will hold competent advice and help you find the right motor for electric screwdriver.

On the pages of our site are only high quality parts.

Very inexpensive you can buy a motor for screwdrivers 12V such well-known brands as:

  • Vityaz;
  • Izhmash;
  • Electromash;
  • Rhythm;
  • Temp;
  • Vorskla;
  • Einhell;
  • Ferm;
  • Arsenal;
  • Titanium.

Our website is the best place where you can buy a motor for a cordless electric screwdriver, as we have a large selection, low prices, thoughtful filters and informative product card.

How to remove the key from the motor shaft?

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Colleagues, advise what is in the 21st century fixtures to remove the wedge keys ? And where to buy them ? Googling gives you nothing.

Can’t say anything about buying it. You need a kind of reverse hammer there. You need to remove from the combine? Go to a competent turner and welder, you need to make a simple fixture. The main thing is to be able to get a grip on the key tooth. Maybe you can help by moistening it with kerosene water-solar and periodic tapping

Please write to the owners of rowless sunflower cutterbars.

Typically, you pull the pulley with the pulley puller and the key comes off a little, then you hit the pulley (put it back on) and the key comes off a little. This is easy to remove.

We are usually the opposite, do not pull the pulley, because the key generates tension, and set the pulley slightly further on the shaft, as far as possible, then pull the key.In your version, the disadvantage is that you are pulling the pulley on the keyway wedge.

Yes it is all clear, and we do it. Except the pulleys are standing so there’s no place to bump them. Or dismantle half of the combine. Here is the question and came up.

It is usually useless to hit it against the pulley because it is pressed against the shaft, though if you can it’s better to hit it through a pipe of suitable diameter.

Colleagues, tell me what tools are available in the 21st century to remove the wedge keys ? And where you can buy them ? Google doesn’t give you anything.

Hi all ! If you do not understand it ask.

To be honest not very clear. Tell.

Here’s the picture. Write it like this?

It’s not very clear, to be honest. Tell.

Hi All ! I will start with the figure To make such a flange with an inner diameter as the red dots in the figure one mm. so that the flange can rotate. Once the flange is made, insert it again into the lathe and clamp it like this. so that the runout was 1,5.2.0 mm. And then bend the inside surface until it’s clean (shown by the two arrows). Then in the thinnest place with a square file we make a groove to the width and height of the dowel. On the flange we make the end grooves ( shown in yellow ) and holes ( shown in green ) so that the bead can turn the flange. Also it is necessary to grind the washers of different thickness 1,5; 2,0; 2,5; 3,0. They have to be put between the flange and the pulley. Make a groove on them, too, so that the flange can rotate. On the key it is desirable to blunt the sharp edge (shown with a green dot in the picture). so it doesn’t cut into the flange. When you turn the flange 180 degrees the distance increases by 1.5 2.0 mm. From the picture. But you also need a milling machine. To select the groove (shown in blue) Apply the jerk to the pulley, turn it around and screw in the holes on the left and right of the groove. But the best effect would be if you apply a jerk. You can use a rod from an old shock absorber for it, you don’t need to grind it. It is best to screw in the left hole closer to the key. If you want to knock out a key on different shafts with different diameters, you make a bigger flange, and on the smaller size screws into the hole in the picture below. That’s about right. Good luck. If you have any questions, I’ll answer.

To be honest it is not very clear. Tell.

Hi All ! I will start with the figure to make such a flange with an inner diameter as the red dots in the figure of one mm. so that the flange can rotate. After the flange is made, put it back in the lathe and clamp it like this. To have an end run-out of 1.5.2.0 mm. And end the inner plane to cleanliness (shown by two arrows). Then, in the thinnest place with a square file we make a groove in the width and height of the key. Make the end slots (shown in yellow) and holes (shown in green) so the bead can rotate the flange. Also you need to grind the washers of different thickness 1,5; 2,0; 2,5; 3,0. They should be put between the flange and the pulley. You can make a groove on them too. It is desirable to blunt the sharp edge of the key (shown by the green dot in the picture). not to cut into the flange. When you turn the flange 180 degrees the distance increases by 1,5 2,0 mm. According to the illustration But you also need a milling machine. To fit the keyway (shown in blue). Slide it on the pulley, turn it around and put the jacking screws in the holes on the left and right of the keyway. But the best effect is if you use a jerk. You can use the rod from the old shock absorber for it. It is desirable to screw in the left hole closer to the key. If you want to knock out the dowel on different shafts with different diameters, make a larger flange, and on a smaller size screw into the hole in the picture below. Like this Good Luck. If you have any questions I will answer.

Gearbox on the electric screwdriver

To help home craftsmen today come a variety of power tools. They significantly simplify repair and construction work, facilitating human physical labor and increasing the speed of execution of tasks. One of the most necessary and functional tools is an electric screwdriver. It can be used to quickly and easily drive screws of different lengths. An important component of the equipment is the reducer of an electric screwdriver. Its scope of action includes the process of transferring the rotation of the motor to the chuck device, which provides the work of the electric tool’s percussion mechanism. If you study the design and principle of operation of the electric screwdriver gearbox, you can quickly replace the ruined part and extend the life of the electrical equipment.

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Test of Stanley SBD20S2K Electric Screwdriver

The predecessor of this model is a similar model with a collector motor. Stanley STDC18LHBK. A very good screwdriver, well balanced in terms of features and very attractively priced. And now the same, but in a brushless version.

remove, gear, electric, screwdriver, motor

The battery is a slider type, with an extra wide base that makes the tool stable on horizontal surfaces. It needs an anti-slip cover on the bottom of the battery, then it won’t go anywhere, even if the surface is sloped. It also lacks battery charge indicator, but we must consider that the tool is budgetary and it is not very reasonable to demand the presence of all imaginable and unimaginable “options”. The manufacturer had to save some money somewhere, otherwise this model would cost more. Apparently, the lack of an indicator is just one way to reduce the cost.

Specifications:

Battery type Li-Ion
Voltage 18 В
Battery capacity 1.5 Ah
Max. torque 55 Nm
Speed at x.х. 0-430/1700 rpm./min.
Bit holder 1.5-13mm
Weight 1.5 kg
Accessories 2 battery, charger, carrying case

The two speed gearbox, big number of steps of torque adjustment (23 plus a drilling step), a quick-action chuck with run-out brake are worth mentioning as interesting features.

Equipped with LED light, wisely placed at the bottom of the handle. less shadowing of the working area. Beside the LED. spring loaded bit holder. Very useful when you work on the ladder and have to put the bit and drill bit in the same place.

The housing is rubber coated and very intelligently. It fits in your hand like a glove, and being placed on the side it does not slip and does not touch the surface with its body.

Exploring real possibilities

First, we tried a “step” to see if the screwdriver is suitable for work with small fasteners. We took the black self-tapping screws, 60mm long, and started screwing them in, three of them at each odd-numbered position of the torque-limit clutch adjuster. And that’s what we have found out. the self-tapping is fully depressed on the 13th position of the socket (remember, there are 23 of them). That means that torque increase is very gradual, which means that this screwdriver is good for small fasteners too, it won’t over tighten it.

After that we tried to estimate how effectively this model can work with big “wood screws”. To begin with we took a “dead end” 10×160 mm. this screwdriver easily drives it into a double pine beam up to the head. Then we tried to do the same thing with 12×240mm “cap screwdriver”. it goes in about half of its torque, but in the drilling mode. The declared torque is 55 Nm, which is also sufficient for very high-torque applications, as you can see.

Another test to test the power and coupling was to drill 35 mm diameter wood with a feather drill. This is more than the tool is capable of (30mm). It managed to work with a 35mm, though several times the protection kicked in and the engine stopped. No wonder, the load was serious, we were drilling not just any board, but a bar “hundred”, and all the way through.

Judging by the test results, the new Stanley screwdriver does not have an unambiguous “specialization (or for roofing work), but is a universal tool for a wide range of tasks. It is quite logical, because the target audience of Stanley tools is first of all small construction teams, and screwdriver is one of the most intensively used tools.

Expertise

The battery contains only banks and patch wires, there are no control electronics here (1). This suggests that the battery is compatible with the previous model with a collector motor. Banks are Samsung INR 18650-13B (2), judging by the data found on the Internet, the maximum output current is 25A. This is quite confirmed by the test results. the tool rather confidently screws in large “dull ropes”, but for this you need a lot of current. Conductive plates are welded by resistance welding, everything is made very carefully and neatly. There is even protection against double soldering.

The assembly with the banks and pins is connected to the bottom of the battery case with adhesive tape (3). The glue is very good, holds it almost by a dead grip and allows for repeated gluing.

The charger is transformer and also very simple structurally (4). Forced cooling fan does not have a fan, and the holes for air circulation is quite wide, so the charger should not be left in cluttered places. In theory, you cannot rule out the possibility that a small nail or self-tapping screw might accidentally fall through the ventilation holes into the body, and this is best avoided.

Now for the most interesting part. taking the screwdriver apart.

One sleeve quick-action chuck. The marking on the housing does not identify the manufacturer. It is locked on the threaded shaft and additionally. with screws for Torx, very reliably. Threads are 1/220 UNF (20 threads per inch). This is a very important point, which clearly confirms. the machine is designed for harsh conditions of use. The screwdrivers for household use usually have a shaft diameter of 3/8”, and this fact limits their application greatly, because you can not rely on a lot of torque. Cases when the service brings tools with literally twisted shaft, not uncommon. it happens if the effort of the tool itself is not enough and the fastener is adjusted manually, on a blocked spindle. The thinner the shaft, the worse it is able to support such loads.

Let’s take off one half of the housing. One. the motor is really a brushless motor. Second. the control electronics are really in the screwdriver as we thought. Third, the wiring is made very accurately, nothing is squeezed and there is no mess. Fourth. motor and “brains” are obviously one part, connection is not dismantled (you have to unsolder three wires). This solution is very common with brushless motors.

This is the gear shift slider. Note that it’s spring loaded. Do you know what the advantage of this solution is?? It makes things a lot easier to use. It often happens during shifting that the satellites do not mesh with the ring gear and just “hang” and not shift directly. In this case it is necessary to switch on the engine for a fraction of a second to change the position of the gears, and try again. But everything is much easier if you work with Stanley SBD20S2K. You move the slider and even if the gears are not engaged, the spring will clamp them during the first engagement and the desired gear will be engaged independently, without any unnecessary manipulation on the part of the operator.

And the connection to the windings doesn’t look very technologically advanced. Just crimped the contacts, without any soldering. Yes, they are very secure, but what prevented additional soldering of these points, as it is done on many brand-name tools? It is doubtful that the desire to cheapen the construction. there are many other places where you could save more serious money.

So far we have not gone far, and we can only make first impressions. But they also say that the new Stanley screwdriver is not so simple. But to get a more accurate picture you need to go further and take apart the gearbox.

Removing the engine, we see the metal pinion.

Now we study the gearbox. The first gear (the one that is immediately behind the engine). metal gears. Also there are five of them here, and this is great, because the torque is distributed more evenly. It happens that there are only three of them, and moreover there are plastic ones. such a solution has been met before even on the models of the world’s major brands. The more gears, the lower is the specific load on each of them.

We take apart the gearbox piece by piece and see that only the body is plastic. The rest is metal, so there is no doubt about the reliability of the construction.

The six balls are the element of the torque-limiting clutch. Next to them is the “comb” they go over when the clutch engages. Traces of the balls moving on the shoulder of the comb are visible. the clutch was actuated more than once during our test. This is worrisome because visible wear of the comb will eventually affect and reduce the clutch tripping torque. if there is a depression in the comb it will be easier for the ball to jump over, which it will certainly do. True, the rate of “comb” wear is not linear, it decreases exponentially over time. To understand why, imagine that you are filing a triangular piece of work with a file. The farther away, the more metal has to be removed to go the same height.

But it begs the question. why is there such noticeable wear on the new tool with the naked eye?? We assume that the reason is as follows. This sample was provided by StanleyBlackDecker and was clearly taken from the demonstration tool set. You’ve seen how these demonstrations go? We have seen, and more than once. the screwdriver is always working at its limits, no one gives it the easy job of tightening small screws. It wouldn’t be spectacular, that’s why they always show him driving large “grouse” all the way down. In general, the ratchet is triggered hundreds of times more often in demonstrations than in actual use. Hence the wear and tear, which in normal mode will probably manifest itself only after several years of operation.

Ball bearing on the shaft outlet, just behind the spindle on which the drill chuck is mounted. It should be here. The surprise (and a nasty one at that) would be the absence of a bearing in this area.

The motor housing has a large clearance. This means the screwdriver requires careful handling. It should not be thrown on piles of construction debris, especially where angle grinders worked. Fine metal dust and filings have a chance to penetrate and become magnetized to the rotor.

Inside the rotor are four powerful neodymium magnets. They are arranged “in a square” in special channels of the rotor. As a consequence, it is able to attract small metal objects. To reduce this effect, the ends of the rotor are covered with plastic covers. The magnetic force is at its maximum at these points and the covers are designed to eliminate the risk of metal dust and other unnecessary things sticking to the rotor. In general the protection is provided here but it doesn’t cancel the necessity of careful attitude towards the tool.

Stator with six windings. Brushless motors of expensive tools can have nine of them, in this case we see a reasonable compromise between the technical capabilities of the motor and its cost.

Stanley once again confirmed and clearly demonstrated that a budget tool can quite deservedly claim the title of a professional one. The construction of the new SBD20S2K screwdriver is hard to beat. there are no obvious weak points and no signs of economy of materials to the detriment of quality.

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All screwdrivers have approximately the same design. They are made up of the following functional units:

All components of the device are located in a solid and aesthetic housing that has a rubberized handle, control and adjustment buttons, as well as a socket for the battery (if the screwdriver is designed to work only from 220 V, it has no battery).

The screwdriver may squeak when the start button is not pressed all the way. It is a normal phenomenon of DC motors when starting and at low speeds.

Why and how to adjust the ratchet

The ratchet on a screwdriver is a clutch that is designed to limit the force with which the chuck rotates. Its presence in a power tool can be identified by a rotating ring with numbers. Some users don’t understand the significance of the clutch and don’t touch it. Using a ratchet, you can adjust the depth of the screwdriver. The flat of the fastener can easily be sunk into too soft a material and penetrate. Very high torque when using small fasteners can destroy them. The ratchet prevents the screwdriver from shearing off the slot and wearing out the screwdriver bits. To determine the correct value on the adjusting ring, make several runs, starting with the minimum.

If the screwdriver has a drilling mode, the last icon on the socket will be the drill icon. Maximum torque is used in this position.

Frequent Screwdriver Malfunctions

Since all modern screwdrivers have a standard device layout, their malfunctions are also usually typical. The major defects of this tool include:

  • battery failure;
  • wear and tear on the brushes;
  • Button breakage;
  • chuck wobble;
  • No reaction when you try to turn it on or off;
  • intermittent operation.

All of these breakdowns you can fix yourself if you have experience with measuring and soldering devices. In some cases you may have to replace the whole assembly, since not all parts are sold separately. If repairing the gearbox or engine is too complicated for you, you can replace them completely or have them repaired.

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