How to put the correct piston on a single axle tractor

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Piston Rings Replacement on MotoBlock

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Piston ring replacement

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How to put the piston on the single-axle tractor correctly

Take the old ring if it is intact and put it into our cylinder and keep it straight with the piston. Measure ring end clearance with feeler gauges. Now insert our piston and measure the gap between the piston and the cylinder bore, it should be no more than 0.6mm. Now insert our new rings, also with the help of the piston to move them to the middle of the cylinder and measure the gap it must be for compression rings: 0.1-0.25 mm (maximum allowable 0.4 mm) for the wiper rings 0.1-0.4 mm. End gap “compression ring. piston groove”: nominal 0.03-0.05mm, maximum 0.1mm. Everything matched? So continue on if not forward to the store for new rings or for a new piston. You have to remove all the soot from the piston grooves.So you decided to replace the piston, or just a piston with the rings, or maybe just the rings. It’s important to know how to put the rings on the piston of a four-stroke engine. In front of you 5 pieces, two thin and two spring expander (wipers) and two compression rings.There are three grooves on the piston. In the lowest one, the one near the hole where the piston pin is inserted, three rings, a spring expander and two fixing thin.Having preliminary greased rings and a piston oil, it is necessary to put carefully the first in a corresponding groove to put two-functional spring expander. a crimp ring, and then already top and bottom fixing. All three rings must fit into the same groove, so that the oil ring is pressed not so much at the top and bottom, but at the end (in the direction from the edge to the center of the piston), using special “steps” on the corrugated ring (it is wider than the fixing by the width of “steps”). With these finished.Top rings usually have the word TOR (top) on them. This side of the ring should face the bottom of the piston.Now put on the compression rings, in the same way on the top grooves. Put the rings on very carefully with your fingers and without any metal objects. If the profile of the compression rings is not the same, then one usually has a rounded shape, the other is shaped like a trapezoid. In this case, the rounded ring is set upwards, and the one in the shape of a trapezium is set below, so that the bevel extends downwards, that is, at the bottom of the groove it must be wider than at the top. THE TOP RING IS GRAY AND THE BOTTOM RING IS BLACK WITH THE LETTERING FACING UP. The locks of the rings in no case can not be set above each other, they must necessarily be set in plane at 2 cm in different directions, as a result the distance between them, if brought in parallel, should be 4 cm. The ring must sink into the groove.assembling the piston groupThe piston group is assembled in a specific order. First insert the circlip into the groove on one of the piston bosses. the piston is pushed onto the connecting rod with the head hole aligned with the top head hole of the connecting rod. The piston is marked “IN”, i.e.е. INPUT. Inlet is up, so this marking should be up as well. Insert an oiled piston pin through the piston crank head boss bore where no snap ring is located, until the snap ring is pushed all the way in.If the pin is too stiff to fit in the bosses, you may poke it back in place with a light tap. But you have to be careful not to damage the piston bosses. with the next locking ring inserted in the piston header, the piston rings are put on the piston. After that a shaped paper gasket, pre-lubricated with oil, is put on the cylinder mount studs and lowered onto the crankcase flange.With the oiled mirror cylinder on the studs, it is slowly lowered down until the lower part is slipped onto the piston head. After that, the upper piston ring is squeezed with the fingers in the lock, and lightly striking the top of the cylinder. push it down to the next ring. do the same with the rest of the rings.View all pictures

correct, piston, single, axle, tractor

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Correct installation of the piston rings

Sooner or later your engine will wear out and need either to change the piston rings, or the piston as a whole.

Like change the piston rings. it is an ordinary task, available to anyone who is somewhat familiar with the structure and operating principles of the primitive four-stroke motor. But, unfortunately, people are afraid to spend 15 minutes of their incredibly precious time on reading the literature and stuff everything into the motor on the principle (and that’s the way it should be). probably will work). Well, flag in your hands and go to the service as soon as possible.

Well, for those who care how their engine will run after the rebuild, you should read this article.

So, we take a piston and see 3 recesses for installation of piston rings. There are no restriction stoppers on 4-stroke engines like there are on 2-stroke engines, for example.

There are two types of piston rings on 4-stroke engines. The first two, which are installed in the top two holes, are compression. Proceeding even from the name it is clear that they are responsible for the presence of compression in your engine and must hold the gases formed at the moment of burst at the expense of fuel combustion in the combustion chamber.

The next three rings are the liners. Here, too, their purpose is immediately clear. They are responsible for removing the oil that coats the cylinder walls when the piston comes back down. If these rings leak, the oil will stay on the cylinder walls, and it’s fraught with the fact that the engine will start to eat oil, and, of course, there will be smoke.

How to install the primary? Yes, basically the same as they were at the factory, in the same order, but to avoid mistakes we show again.

First we put on the main liner ring: the one with the wave-like structure. It’s the easiest to install, because it’s the most elastic of all.

Next, we put the upper and lower THIN oil rings. They’re a little harder, but there shouldn’t be any problems installing them either.

Now put the piston compression rings: the ones that are thicker and “harder”. Install the lower one first, then the upper one. They are a little more difficult to fit, because they are less elastic and harder. You are unlikely to break them, but if you have absolutely wrong hands they will bend as easily as possible.

The point is that the rings need to be positioned correctly on the piston so that the ring joints (kerf spot) do not overlap. Simply put, you need to make sure the kerf of the lower ring is not located directly above the kerf of the upper ring.

The lock of the lower ring is located in the middle over the valve cavity, for example, inlet (you can and exhaust, there is no difference).

The top ring lock is positioned just across from the bottom ring. Accordingly, if the lock of the lower ring is over the inlet valve cavity, the lock of the upper ring is over the outlet valve cavity.

Now we move on to the linchpin rings. These rings have to be positioned in exactly the same way so that not a single lock aligns. Therefore, the top ring is positioned over the piston pin hole, on the right side.

The second one (the lower one) is positioned on the opposite side, also about in the middle of the hole under the piston pin.

we put the last wavy ring in any of the four resulting sections between the pin hole and the cavity under the valve.

And now to your question: what kind of nonsense is the author telling us here? And why so painstakingly set the position of all 5 rings?

Explaining. All this we did so that when one lock was placed over the other, no gases pass through these locks (in the case of piston rings) and oil does not stay on the walls (in the case of linchpin rings).

If we take into account the piston rings, it is the loss of compression and the passage of red-hot working gases to the oil rings, which are not designed for such sudden high operating temperatures. As a result, the rings after a certain time can burn out.

If you turn to the scraper rings and the matching locks on them, then we will not completely remove the oil: it will reach the piston rings, which will lead to coking the grooves of the rings, and as a result they will lie, and then burn.

As a result, you get burnt rings and piston wear and tear.

Bottom line: set the locks of the rings before installation. a matter of 2 minutes, and the life of the engine this operation can extend for dozens of hours.

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