Homemade machine with a cyclone method of cleaning
The principle on which these dehumidifiers work is this: as soon as air enters the unit’s chamber, it begins to rotate rapidly by centrifugal force. Heavy particles (oil, condensate or sand), which are at this point in the air, are influenced by centrifugal force, and they are thrown on the walls of the chamber.
To make such a device, you need to find:
- A gas cylinder that was previously used to store propane;
- welding machine;
- 2 tubes of metal of small size and length.
Perform the work in this sequence:
- The cylinder must be installed with the tap downwards;
- One of the nipples with a welding attached to the top of the cylinder, through it will supply air to the inlet;
- We measure 2/3 of the cylinder body height and use a welding machine to attach the second fitting, which will work for the output;
- If you want to achieve from the moisture separator, made by your own hands, better efficiency, cut the body of the cylinder in half, pour wooden sawdust or shavings inside, and in the bottom of the device put the grid, which will act as a filter. After that, carefully weld the two halves of the future unit to each other and check it for leaks.
Now the cyclone oil skimmer is ready for use.
The operating principle of this type of dehumidifier is based on the knowledge that moisture has the ability to condense due to low temperature. Due to qualitative removal of excessive moisture in the air supplied to the compressor, such units are very popular among professional painters.
The complications in making a unit of this type are as follows:
- You need to decide how the condensate will be removed from the moisture separator. A special fitting can be welded to the freezer compartment for this purpose;
- Care must be taken to completely seal your unit.
General information about moisture separators
Moisture separator is one of the filtration tools that ensure optimal characteristics and composition of the air released by the pneumatic system. Along with it, the compressor can be supplemented with panel and oil filters, which also carry out the preparation of the working mixture. In this case, however, the focus is on the function of separating the air from the excess water particles. This filtering step is especially important for pneumatic systems that serve small tools. The standard compressor moisture separator is used in machine shops and production lines where workers carry out painting operations. Air without excess moisture is also required during the operation of sandblasting construction machines.
Cyclone oil separators
Operating principle. When entering the oil separator, refrigerant vapors with oil droplets enter the spiral part of the machine. The flow moves in a spiral and the centrifugal force causes the oil droplets to settle on the inner surface of the oil separator walls. The oil flows along the walls into the lower part of the device, which is separated from the main part with a special oil eliminator, which prevents oil from being carried away again. At the bottom of the oil separator is a float mechanism with a needle valve that returns the oil back to the compressor.
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The design of the oil separator and oil separator prevents oil from escaping when the refrigeration compressor starts up.
Different types of oil separators are used for separating oil from the refrigerant; their efficiency depends on the conditions of their use. For example, the degree of oil separation in units increases as the temperature of the steam entering the oil separator decreases. Oil separators with a filter head allow a greater degree of separation with less oil in the refrigerant vapor entering the unit. Bar-oil separators operate at the nominal separation efficiency when the bubble bed height in the apparatus is at least 0.12 m and the separated oil is continuously expelled from the apparatus.
Painting work in the garage or in the air is simplified if you use a paint sprayer, working with a compressor. The method has one significant disadvantage: the air blown by the compressor has a rather high humidity, which will adversely affect the quality of painting. A special dehumidifier for the compressor is responsible for removing moisture from the air flow. Is it worth buying or can you make it yourself?? Let’s find out!
Types of moisture separators
There are several types of dehumidifiers that are used for domestic and industrial purposes. Before buying, you need to define the objectives and compare them with the technical characteristics to choose the optimal type of moisture separator. Among the large and varied selection you can find:
The features of the latter type of device is the effective purification of water, solid elements and oil. They are installed on oil compressors, which can intensively process parts with the lubricant. Large production companies with a high volume of work often use modular filtration systems as well.
In this design, the moisture separator is a functional and important component, but it does not serve as an independent working filter.
The modular system is controlled by a controller that gives different commands not only to the filter, but also to the other components in the unit.
Depending on the application, the cleaning requirements vary. If you need to paint a surface with a pneumatic gun, but you must pay attention to the small capacity of the filter. Fine filtration is preferred.
During the production process, there may be minimum quality requirements for filtration. But in this case, particular attention is paid to the output volumes. Experts recommend looking at the list of foreign particles that the filter collects. The optimal solution. moisture-oil separator for compressor which processes water and oil particles from the air stream.
If the work requires a filter to collect excess moisture, you can also buy dehumidifiers. But they do not guarantee high quality getting rid of different fractions, particles and foreign bodies.
The dehumidifier begins to process the compressed air before feeding it into the pneumatic equipment. It is important to remember that paint sprayers can not be used without this device, so that it does not fail before time, as well as to ensure high quality paint application on the surface. In the filtration process, the jet goes through a cleaning stage, so fine liquid particles are removed from the air, as well as small solid elements.
Depending on the type and design of the device, the operating principle of the dehumidifier may vary slightly. Today, among the large and varied selection, the following options are available:
The most often used vortex and cyclone moisture separator devices for compressor equipment. The device helps to effectively trap water particles due to the artificially created swirling air flow.
The liquid precipitates on the walls, so that clean compressed air can flow into the pneumatic system. In order to ensure that the moisture separator operates at maximum efficiency, the interior is fitted with blades. When they are driven, they thoroughly collect the water and oil particles. It is discharged to a condensate drain. Liquid particles are trapped and blocked by membranes.
When choosing a moisture trap, you need to consider for what kind of machinery you are buying. trucks Kamaz, MAZ or other brands, machinery for painting, sandblasting, etc.д.
DIY Compressed Air Dryer
Important! Depending on the tool used, the type of oil-water separator, the diameter of the inlet connection (1/8, 3/4, 3/8, etc.) and the type of actuator (5, 8, 12, 13 etc.) will be chosen.д.), working pressure, availability of additional filters, as well as other parameters.
For example, for air guns used in painting, there is no need to buy a filter that allows large amounts of fluid to pass through in a minute. It is recommended to consider devices with fine filters. Whereas a high degree of filtration is not required for production processes, but a high throughput rate is.
Key characteristics of the equipment
Scope of application of moisture and oil separators is wide enough, so when choosing a model, you should immediately determine its specific goals and objectives: maintenance of cars MAZ / KAMAZ, pneumatic tools, or other devices where high quality filtration is required.
No need for an increased air throughput when taking paint spraying equipment into account. Here it is much more practical to look at equipment with fine filters. Whereas good permeability is what is required for production processes, and the micron rating for purification takes a back seat. The latter depends on the size of the fraction. Industrial variants are more logical to use for high-quality water treatment. In this case the fine particles with a size of about 5 microns are cut off. Classic solutions are mostly equipped with filter systems with a particle size range of 15 μm.
Special attention should be paid to the indicator of maintained pressure. Separators for compressor equipment of medium-budget segment offer a level of 7 bar. This parameter has less influence on the final result, but the filter should correspond to the efficiency of the unit, otherwise the efficiency will significantly decrease and the labor costs will also increase.
The most common types of homemade dehumidifiers
The principle of operation of the cyclone dehumidifier is quite simple. When a compressed air stream enters the unit, it starts rotating. Under the action of centrifugal force, condensate, small debris and oil particles are directed to the walls. At this time, the purified air will flow into the lower central port and then into the compressor.
The air mixture is fed through the top opening, the centrifugal force separates the moisture and leads out through the outlet nozzle
To create a homemade centrifugal apparatus, we will need:
As the body perfectly suits an old cylinder, it has a sufficient height and can withstand increased pressure. The procedure is as follows:
- Install the product vertically, with the tap downward.
- Weld the inlet fitting to the upper part of the enclosure. It must be displaced closer to one of the cylinder walls.
We weld the inlet and outlet nozzles to the cylinder
Install the cyclone dehumidifier vertically, the moisture will be discharged through the bottom hole with a valve
To improve the efficiency of the desiccant, you can add wood shavings inside and put a filter screen at the outlet. But in this case it will be necessary to cut the case crosswise and after completing the work to fasten it back together with a special hermetic gasket.
Moisture separator with silica gel
Silica gel allows to filter the air mixture, it is enough to place a layer of this substance correctly in the case from the oil or water filter. The old equipment from Volga will be optimal for making a selfmade moisture separator.
Disassemble the old oil filter and prepare it for further operations
To plug the holes we use bolts of the right diameter and sealant
Fill all free space of the enclosure with silica gel
Firmly press the top cover to the oil filter body
The filter construction has several brackets, with the help of which the filter is easily installed in the right place.
In order to use silica gel as effectively as possible, the inlet and outlet holes must be located at different ends of the housing.
The device of refrigeration type
As it is known, low temperature allows to condense moisture, which is in the air mixture. Refrigeration type moisture separators are quite popular among auto mechanics. The devices cover almost all requirements for the air that is supplied to the compressor. When creating a moisture separator, you need to direct the air flow through the freezer or other refrigeration equipment.
It is important to completely seal the freezer in the receiver and make a pipe for condensate drainage. For residents of “cold” regions of our country, experts recommend making the air supply to the compressor from the street. In winter, you will directly receive an air mixture with low m moisture.
How to make a moisture separator for the compressor with your own hands
Self-made filter-dehydrator (moisture separator) for the compressor
For the old compressor I had a filter-drier made from a plastic water filter filled with silica gel (cat litter box). It coped with its task well, but the compressor I changed for a more powerful, and if the old one gave a maximum of 8 atm, the new one has 10, and this is the maximum pressure that can withstand such filters. So. so as not to get BABAH in the shop, I decided to make a new filter, which I present to the public.
Its basis is a steel tube 100mm. with 3 mm wall thickness. I made the top and bottom lids from a 14 channel.
From the pipe I cut off 80 cm., I cut two 14×14 cm squares from the channel. Cleaned off all the rust. To clean the inside of the pipe used a circle wire 100 mm., with welded to it a stud, not cleaned to a shiny finish, but no rust or other crap left.
To the tube I welded 8 through nuts M12, 4 per side.
And put it on tacking, I’ll finally scald it after trying it on.
I put it on the base and marked the holes.
I got such a construction, the lids were a little bit not parallel to each other, I should have made some kind of template instead of just by eye, but in general it’s not critical.
In the bottom cover drilled a hole 12mm, and welded a nut M12, drilled it with a drill 12mm, and cut a pipe thread of 1/4″, and screw in a plug for condensate drain.
I make gaskets up and down from oil-and-gas resistant rubber, in the lower one I cut out a hole for the condensate drain.
To the filter casing I weld two nuts M12, one at the bottom (for the compressor air supply) and the second at the top for the exit of ready air. And everything is the same as with the nut for the plug, I drill it out, cut the thread, screw in the fittings.
At the bottom of the filter I welded 3 support bars, they restrict the condensate collection chamber, and the filter cassette will be lowered on them.
In general, the filter is ready, I assemble and press it. Keeps pressure, no leaks.
From 1 mm. of steel sheet I cut out 5 circles for the internal partitions. And I grind them exactly to the size of the pipe
I also paint the filter casing and other parts inside and outside.
After drying, I screw the bottom cover on and start reassembling.I screw the M5 stud to the bottom baffle, which will hold the entire inner cassette. I lower it on the stops and fill to the middle of the filter with household stainless steel sponges (I hope they are really made of stainless steel as it says on the package), it takes 20 sponges in total.
The following baffles assemble from 2 circles, putting between them pieces from the cabin air filter for the car. I put one partition on top of the sponges.
And after pouring silica gel on top, I cover it with 2 baffles. On top there is a small chamber of purified air.
I close all of this with the top cover over the gasket. I screw the post filter with pressure regulator to the lid.
I make a small hose to connect the filter with the post filter. Doing the pressure test again, and putting it in place where it will stand.
Hopefully. that this filter load will last me at least a year, maybe even more.
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