How to make a circular saw from a hand held circular saw

DIY amateur sawing table

Good afternoon everyone! While discussing one of my reviews, in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев, participants were asked to do a review of a sawing table that I work on. In this review, I’m going to tell you how I hastily made a sawing table from what I had, plus some small things I bought. A detailed SketchUp model of the table, with all the elements and components, is attached to the review.

I had been thinking about a sawing table for a long time, but there were a huge number of other things to do, and it was naturally put off until better times. Then, when last year I had a more or less calm winter, I came across a series of videos on homemade sawing tables and realized that this is what it is time to do.

In many video reviews the tables are made so seriously, and always against the background of fully equipped workshops with a lot of machines, that sometimes you look at your working conditions and doubt whether to take. In this review I will tell you how I made the table in fairly Spartan conditions, with a circular saw, angle grinder, screwdriver and milling machine (just here I tested the milling machine for the first time, which was lying in a box for three years).

I had a manual circular saw Hitachi C6SS, a cheap but very reliable machine, that has been used on construction sites and has done so much work that it should be placed on a pedestal, and prominently placed in the workshop. But since any tool must work until the end, she was offered a new place.

After completing the main phase of the house construction, I had a whole sheet of 21 mm plywood (FC 4/4), which stood alone for 3 years, and it was time to use it somewhere. At that time I did not make a separate project for the table, the whole idea and the representation, as I see it, developed in my head, so I did it on the spot, and the basic components and materials were chosen during implementation, my eyes ran through what was in the closet, the workshop, in the drawers with hardware and fasteners and other small items. Accordingly, did not do any modeling, but for this review I have already transferred the desktop in a 3D model in SketchUp, tried to present all the components, the only thing I did not draw the nuts and screws, it was lazy, and I already seemed more a waste of time, because already in principle it is clear and if anything, I will explain in the course of the review. The model shows how and what is assembled, by layers you can remove the enlarged elements, perhaps someone will find this model useful for repetition or as an idea for their realization.

So, I took a sheet of 21 mm plywood, marked and sawed with a circular saw the base of the table with the size 1100 mm x 820 mm The table is big, but I wanted a universal table, on which I can saw small parts and large-sized sheet materials, plywood, laminated wood chipboard for cabinet furniture, as well as wooden plates and cardboard.

Three ways to cut small wood with circular saw

Then I turned over the obtained sheet, marked it, put the circular saw with raised disk on the sheet, outlined the contour of the saw’s sole with a pencil, and with a router with a slot cutter I selected the material in the obtained projection of the sole to the depth of about 12 mm. The circular saw’s sole is then inserted into the obtained recess. With the saw the handle and the blade guard are preliminarily removed.

Along the contour of the saw sole in the sheet of the table basement 4 holes were made for bolts M8. From the top of the base (back) were installed whisker nuts M8. The sole of the saw is set in a recess and pressed through the reinforced washers with bolts M8 to the table base.

Then we loosen the mechanism of depth of cut adjustment of saw, we put the saw into the socket and, pressing the saw, we saw through the table base to the full depth, from the back (working) side of the table we have a disk. The most important point here is not to mix up the direction in which the saw should rotate when installing the saw in the recess (the disc from the side of the table working surface should rotate on itself), while I was trying it on, almost got mixed up, it’s good to notice in time. By the way, in the model in Sketchup I used a saw from 3D Warehouse, and if you look at the photo of my table, the saw drives in SketchUp model (Makita) and in real life (Hitachi) are mirrored, located on different sides of the saw. I found only such model of the saw and it was left, the main thing was to choose the right direction of the disk rotation. Everyone’s saw is different anyway.

Already in this form on the table you can saw:. place the base of the table on the chairs / stools / drawers (I placed in the workshop with one side on the shelf of a shelf, the other on the back of a chair by the wall);. relative to the saw blade, using a long ruler, draw the axial line of the cut.;. we take a long aluminum angle piece (or a bar, or a flat board), place it on the angle relative to the bevel line of the cut, fix it to the table with clamps, and we have an improvised temporary parallel stop.

That’s how I sawed all the other details of the table, while it was slowly assembled.

First of all I decided to saw the saw blade guard for dust removal. For the first time in my life I was able to get completely identical parts, like twin brothers, instantly, without fitting. The casing. four walls of plywood 10 mm, the bottom of a piece of fiberboard. We glue everything with PVA and self-tapping screws.

To connect the vacuum cleaner, I made a hole in the bottom corner of the box bimetallic drill under the sewer fitting 50 mm. To attach the fitting to the body, I cut the cut fitting into sectors, inserted the fitting, heated sectors and bent them to the wall of the box, then on each sector went small self-tapping screws, the gaps on the back side filled with hot melt glue. It turned out firmly, and from the careless movement of the hose vacuum cleaner fitting exactly will not pull out of the housing.

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For fixing the box to the table I used 30×30 metal angle bars, and 15×30 for the lock. I made flat eyes from cut plywood plates 6 mm dremel, glued them to the table, they are inserted into the corners of the box. On the other side of the box with a metal plate and self-tapping screws made a kind of lock.

We connect the vacuum cleaner, try it. all the dust is inside, it won’t fly in the face.

We sawed out the longitudinal ribs on the table, and glued them to the base with PVA and self-tapping screws. To these same ribs we will also attach the guide profiles of the parallel stop.

Since the surface of the future table must be smooth to slide the workpieces and materials smoothly, and plywood FC 4/4 does not contribute to the normal sliding, I had to invent something with the coating. Generally for such tables usually use laminated plywood, but we only sell it in huge sheets, and the basic idea was to use the existing sheet of plywood. Here I found a large corporate advertising poster of foamed PVC, 4 mm thick., imprinted on one side only, so the blank white back side was perfect as a facing material for the table.

I must say at once that the foamed PVC is not the best material for such purposes. I don’t know how long it will last, but it still has grooves and scratches from the sharp ends of the skipped parts. It’s not critical yet, and may not be at all, you may have to change it in the future, or cover the top with a thin sheet of other material. A sheet of Plexiglas would have been suitable for this purpose, but I didn’t have it.

For the future trolleys and pushers in the base of the table need to lay the rails from aluminum profiles in the form of channel 15x10x1. To install it in the base were marked and made with a router with a slot cutter cross slots for aluminum profiles. Since we have 4mm PVC sheet on top, the groove is 6mm deep accordingly.

I cut the PVC sheet into three parts, two parts left and right of the profiles and one part between the profiles. When I put the profiles in the grooves the following problem was revealed, or rather it’s called a joint. Table base sheet with deflection! About 3 mm in the center of the sheet relative to the edges, I applied a meter steel ruler, everything is clearly visible. Sheet plywood stood for three years in the boiler room, in an upright position against the wall, but it can originally was crooked. Out of spite took an angle grinder, a petal wheel and went outside to fix the deflection by removing the material on the edges. There was a bucket of dust. Took off as much patience as I had, but the area is large. I decided to correct the rest of the deflection as follows. Since I planned to attach aluminum profiles and PVC sheets with liquid nails MOMENT MV-100, in the central part of the sheet and grooves, I made a larger portion of glue, with gaps for later shrinkage during leveling. I evenly glued the edges of the sheet. Then I put aluminum profiles in the grooves, and then to the profiles all three sheets. I’ve taken a long aluminum square 40x40x2 and with the movement across the table began to level the height in the central part of the sheets and profiles relative to the edges. After passing the profile checked the gap and the evenness of the sheets in the transverse, longitudinal and diagonal directions. everything worked. MV-100 after hardening becomes like a stone, respectively, the performance and rigidity of the table was not lost.

Next was to do a parallel stop. As the main element of the stop was used aluminum profile 40x40x2 (which I used for alignment earlier). To improve stiffness, weight of the stop design, as well as the ease of installation of subsequent parts, it was decided to glue a wooden bar 30×30 into the profile. I also glued it with MOMENT MV-100. Other parts of the stop I also made of the profile and glued double slats of plywood 40 mm wide.

For the lateral movement and fixation of the support I chose a system made of a C-shaped steel profile, an oak parquet slider and a square washer on a long M8 bolt. The head of the bolt a good grind, a square thick molded washer (from the bar fasteners of cable tracks) had a cavity, where the head of the bolt was sunk and planted on the two-component epoxy adhesive.

On the back side of the bolt, which goes through the cross clamping element of the stop, was installed a round handle with an M8 ear nut (the handle also made of plywood directly on the saw blade)

A square washer with sliders winds up with C-profile, relative to which moves the design of the stop, when screwing the knob of the stop we press the square washer to the outer walls of the C-profile and fix the stop relative to the table. The square washer also prevents the bolt from turning in the profile when tightening the handle.

On the reverse side of the table also placed a C-profile, and wanted to make a similar system, but feared that the stop will be heavily wedged when moving, and I need fixing and the reverse side, too, I need flatness stop relative to the axial mowing line from both sides, and with fixing only one point does not always work, where will be flat, and in some position and 2-3 mm, perhaps not ideal C-profile, although it looks flat. I came up with a much simpler design: at the bottom of the C-profile I placed a runner part, with a stud M8 fixed in it, and through the intermediate element and the stop I drilled a hole and brought up the counter part of the stud, on which I planted another handle with a whisker nut M8. Now screwing the handle, I use a stud to press the slider to the C-profile and thus fix the far part of the stop in relation to the table.

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Work with the stop turns out the following:. I loosen both knobs on the stop;. I move the stop in the right direction;. I measure with a square the necessary distance from the stop to the axial mowing line of the cut at the bottom of the stop;. I fix the lower part with the knob;. I check the distance from the stop to the axial mowing line of the cut at the top of the stop;. I fix the upper part with the knob;. You can saw.

To work with parts and workpieces on the table, a simple carriage and a small pusher with guide sliders were made.

The carriage and pusher are made of 16 mm thick laminated chipboard, and a 40x40x2 aluminum profile was used in the pusher. Sliders for guides made from oak, cut thin slats from an oak parquet board. I glued the sliders to the carriages with PVA and extra self-tapping screws. To improve the sliding of the oak slider in the guide aluminum channel, I impregnate the oak laths with spray silicone grease, the wood absorbs it and moves perfectly in the profile without jamming.

The workshop room in the house is very small, so the table must be collapsible (not needed. disassembled), and portable, so you can take it outside for work. That’s why it was decided to make the table legs in the form of removable vertical frames with struts. On the bottom of the table, in the form of plywood slats, I glued counterparts with M8 moustache nuts to fasten the frames of the uprights to the table with bolts with washers.

For electric connection of the saw I installed right next to the saw a socket, it plugs in the regular mains plug of the saw. The socket I plugged in from a contactor, the contactor is controlled by a block of START/STOP buttons, mounted on a separate plate on the front side of the table. The contactor power. a separate long cable to the socket in the wall. The power button on the saw is secured with a coupler.

To collect dust and sawdust with a vacuum cleaner I also use a homemade cyclone from a bucket, cover and sewer fittings:

What are the problems and what I plan to do:

The table works, very well, the fact that I got it to do. you can see in my other reviews. For non-professional use is enough. It wasn’t hard, quick, and not expensive to make. Of course there are much more advanced designs, but they require more time and money. If there are additional questions/criticism/Комментарии и мнения владельцев/suggestions for improvement, I think everyone will be useful, as on mysku Комментарии и мнения владельцев are a great treasure trove of knowledge.

Safety Requirements

Self-made table under the saw. not such a difficult task as it may seem. If there is good material at hand, its characteristics are chosen correctly, and the power of the device ranges from 500 to 1000 watts, the above instructions will be the basis of the work.

It should not be overlooked that at any stage of the table production you should control the accuracy of your own operations. Otherwise, if there are dimensional deviations or deformations of the legs when you tie the ribs, it will be very difficult to regain stability. Nevertheless, the production of the table for the circular saw by own hands is an absolutely real task for a few hours.

How to make a circular saw yourself: useful tips

Every owner of a private house or a country house wants his set of power tools to have a handheld circular saw. Its owners are already much easier to do without the services of workshops in the manufacture of joinery. However, every owner of a manual circular saw already dreams of a stationary circular saw appeared in the economy, as a manual tool with all its advantages (low price, lightness and mobility) has a number of drawbacks. The main one is the lack of a stable surface with a large area, on which it would be possible to saw boards of the most different thickness, width and length. Of course, some models of manual circular saws are equipped with extended soles and special fasteners, which allows you to attach them to workbenches or tables and turns the inverted circular saws into some semblance of stationary devices.

Circular saw is always useful in a private home, with its help wood is processed quickly and easily.

And yet the small area of the DP soleplate and a small “outreach” of the guide bar do not give home masters the opportunity to process large workpieces.

Manual circular saw as the basis of homemade construction

One of the most popular tools, on the basis of which homemade saw structures are created at home, is a circular saw (hand circular saw). With this electromechanism, straight cuts are made in wood materials, as well as in soft and thin metal, using a circular disc. The tool is quite simple, it has all the basic elements that allow you to make a circular saw with your own hands.

The circular saw consists of the following parts:

Handheld circular saw makes straight cuts in wood materials and in soft and thin metal.

Manual circular saws stand out from other similar tools by some technical peculiarities. For example, the cutting depth and angle can be changed directly during work. Submersible saws offer special opportunities. Suitable for making insulated compound cuts of the required size.

Accuracy, cutting quality of a manual circular saw depends on the number of teeth on the blade and the angle of their sharpening. Higher quality with more teeth, but somewhat lower performance.

When making a circular saw with your own hands from a handheld circular saw it is necessary to pay special attention to the engine power

It is very important if you intend to do a lot of work. The total weight of the saw matters

Light models are good for occasional sawing

The total weight of the saw matters. Light models are suitable for occasional sawing.

Depth and angle of cut can be changed directly while the circular saw is in operation.

Making a fixture for the circular saw guide

In order to make the best quality wood sawing, a stationary saw must be equipped with a guide. This will be the bar for the full length of the table top, set parallel to the blade of the saw.

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For its attachment I prepare 2 pieces of bar and 2 strips of plywood, which I attach along the table top edges perpendicular to the saw blade. Then I measure the tabletop, and trim the edges so that the guide is parallel to the saw blade when it is moved.

The compact table machine

Above mentioned how to assemble a manual circular saw. Now we will tell you how to turn this device into a stationary one. This process involves making a U-shaped bed out of pipe, as well as installing a cross arm. The lower ends of the structure must bend horizontally in the direction of the saw. They are attached to the table with bolts. The stability is ensured by additional supports.

Arm mobility is provided by sawing the horizontal segment into two identical parts, which are fixed between each other with clamps. The saw blade is attached to the vertical member of the bed by clamps.

design requirements

Before starting work, it will be necessary to prepare a small sketch, which must indicate not only the location of all structural elements of the future machine, but also their basic dimensions. When drawing such a sketch, you should take into account that your circular machine may consist of the following functional units:

  • Stand, which serves as a base for the whole product;
  • table top with the industrial sample of a handheld circular saw installed on it;
  • remote control panel for activation and deactivation of actuating mechanism (circular saw).

Small table type circular saw

This machine structure is characteristic for small products on a wooden base. For capital equipment, made on the basis of metal profiles (angles), its scheme has a slightly different view. Such a product should include the following elements:

  • base made of steel frames and brackets, on which the shaft with the drive pulley is mounted in bearing couples;
  • table top with slots for the machining blade, installed on top of the metal frame and rigidly fixed to it;
  • a set of special electrical drive equipment, placed in the bottom part of the frame and ensuring the required functionality of the device (it includes the electric motor, starting device and transformer-converter).

The main requirement for any type of frames is to ensure maximum reliability and structural stability. As variants of execution of the machine base we will consider both frameworks made of metal profiles (angles), and load-bearing structures made of wood.

When familiarizing yourself with the requirements to the electrical equipment of the homemade machine, first of all, you should decide on the capacity of the drive of the cutting tool (or autonomous saw), which for domestic conditions should not exceed the value of 850 watts.

In addition, before preparing a sketch of the future product, you must take into account such technical characteristics of the equipment used, as:

  • Depth of cut, which defines the allowable thickness of the wood to be machined on your machine. This parameter for industrial models of woodworking equipment varies from 5 to 8 cm, which is quite enough for cutting standard boards and thick plywood.

Additional information: If you need to process thicker wood you should use a special lifting mechanism which allows you to change the height of the blade.

  • Before making a complete machine with a separate drive, you should consider the operating speed of the electric motor rotor. The choice of this parameter is determined by the machining modes of the lumber with which you will most often have to deal. This may be relatively low for a simple cut of wood, but you need a higher speed to get a perfectly smooth (“clean”) cut.

Important! Optimal for self-made cutting machines is considered a rotational speed not exceeding the value of 4500 rpm. At low engine speeds the bed can be made on the basis of a reinforced wooden frame, massive enough to prevent vibration of the mechanism.

  • When drawing up a sketch, you must also take into account the requirements for ergonomics, which imply convenience in controlling the work of the equipment, as well as the safety of handling it. This includes the arrangement of the pushbuttons on the operating panel, restricted access to the saw blade as well as the electrical protection of the drive or individual controls.

Once all possible requirements for the future machine have been taken into account, you can begin to assemble it directly.

We recommend that you begin by preparing everything you need. Always place the stationary machine on a firm and stable table. For its manufacture will need a sheet of sanded plywood of the required size and a thickness of not less than 20 mm. To make the legs of the table can be made of 4 bars, connected to each other by wooden or metal crosspieces.

In addition, the manual circular saw or angle grinder itself will be needed.

It is also necessary to stock up on the following tools and materials:

  • jigsaw;
  • electric screwdriver;
  • 3-4 metal clamps;
  • self-tapping screws and screws;
  • 2 metal curtains of small size;
  • 2 clamps;
  • Grinded board, the length of which corresponds to the length of the table, and the height varies between 10-12 cm;
  • pencil, long ruler.

Hommade Battery Powered Circular Saw / DIY Cordless Circular Saw

All of these can be found in the workshop or purchased inexpensively at any hardware store.

Miniature table type circular saw

A stationary machine is more functional and safer to use. Homemade table-type circular saw is made at home in the same way as a hand saw, with the addition of some elements. Homemade circular saw with his own hands, will require prepared drawings. The process involves the use of 2 cm pipe, the metal is bent in a U-shape. It is bolted to the table, with its lower ends bent in the direction of work. Additional stability is obtained by installing a lever with a crosspiece, welded in the shape of the letter “T”.

Table for table circular saw, made by hands can be used as a cutting machine. The kerf cannot be larger than 8 cm, so a larger cut would require a larger machine.

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