How to make a table for a circular saw using a manual circular saw. the nuances of making with your own hands
Manual circular saws are intended mainly for short cross cuts, trimming workpieces. Sometimes they are used for resawing boards into bars both in manual and stationary modes. In the stationary mode the circular saw is turned upside down with the saw blade and is fixed in a table or frame. The principle of manual and stationary use differs in that in the first case, the electric saw moves along the workpiece, in. the second vice versa, the workpiece moves relative to the saw blade. In other words, a manual circular saw secured upside down on a table with a saw blade turns into a stationary circular machine.
Some models and brands come with a factory-made frame to fix the saw in stationary mode. These are devices with a small area of the working table, on which it is difficult to place and guide evenly along the parallel stop a workpiece longer than 1 m, especially heavy one. This is why craftsmen often make such tables for their small workshops themselves.
- The whole construction must be sufficiently strong, especially the corners or bars on which the circular saw itself and their fastening are fixed.
- The height of the table must correspond to the height of the master. Work without bending down or reaching too high for the platform. The average height is 65-75 cm. Sometimes low structures are made, which are then put on a workbench of suitable height.
- The working table (platform) must have sufficient support area for the workpieces with which you will mainly work. For example, for sawing a beam of frame bindings or furniture legs it is enough to have a table length up to 70 cm.100 cm with a width of 50 cm to 100 cm. The wider the table, the wider the workpieces (boards, sheets) on it can be dissolved without overshooting the edge of the table. Space is also provided for mounting a parallel stop (stop bar) on the work table.
A large table makes it possible to work comfortably with wide and long workpieces. After sawing it can be used as a self-contained workbench. Costs. takes up more space, more material consumption for the bed and platform.
The design of the table for a manual circular saw is so elementary that most professionals make it without preparatory drawings and techniques. It is a dense workbench, which is created from wood and plywood.
The strongest bases for the table are made of alloy. They are the heaviest and require welding skills. That is why the stands are often made of remnants of lumber. Circular saw is attached under the table top and the storage unit protrudes over it through a specially made slit. Sawn timber is pushed along the table top and sawn with the disc. For convenience and correctness of work, the table is equipped with additional devices: an angular and longitudinal stop.
The tabletop “absorbs” part of the working plane of the disc, the depth of cut will be reduced by the thickness of the tabletop. For this reason it is preferable to choose a circular saw with the largest blade diameter and a table top that is thin but stiff.
If you have not yet purchased an electric saw, choose modifications with high power (from 1200 watts). They will manage the sawing of large-sized wood. Holes are drilled to fix the base. The solid base may break. For this reason it is desirable to pick up the mechanism of another type.
Using 20-mm plywood, you must make a blank for the tabletop, guided by the chosen dimensions. The blade is marked with a marker and ruler, and then sawed with an electric jigsaw. Edges need to be trimmed with a router. Material is sanded down.
The underside of the tabletop must be marked for the saw. To do this, the blade is turned over and the saw must be placed on the intended location without the disc. In this way you can mark the parameters of the sole. Using a router, a recess is made in the tabletop within the range of 8 to 10 mm, and you must follow the seating position that has been marked out in advance.
A simple sawing table for a manual circular saw with their own hands
Manufacturing process. So, as the base will serve an ordinary sheet plywood, a piece of laminated chipboard or fiberboard, from which the rectangular part is cut out.
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To the upper side of the base, on its edges, you need to attach two 50X50 mm pine bars.
To do this, the author turns the base most even surface down, puts the bars under the edges, and aligns them. Then, in staggered order, pilot holes are made for screws with a wood drill with countersinking. It remains to fasten the parts to each other with self-tapping screws.
Two aluminum angles will work as guides. On one of them it is necessary to reduce the width of the wing, because the saw blade is located quite close to the edge of the sole.
Both corners are placed on the side blocks, at the back of them. The circular saw is positioned on top of them and the squares are pressed against the edge of the base. The furthest rail is aligned to the base using a square.
The same operation is performed on the second edge of the guide rail.
Before securing the edge of the second guide, the maker moves the saw to that side to get the exact distance between the guides.
After all the edges are fixed to one screw, the master checks the freedom of movement of the soleplate along the guides, and the absence of backlash. Only then is one more self-tapping screw on each corner.
On the guard is marked and a hole is made, into which (at the very tip) is screwed a locking screw.
The base and guide rails are ready. Now the master sets the distance of the disk 1-2 mm more than the distance between the guides and the table surface. Then a cut is made on the table along the entire length available for this.
Next, an adjustable stop must be made to allow the workpieces to be cut at the desired angle.First of all, holes with a diameter of 8mm are drilled at its ends.
A nail is inserted into the hole closest to the rails, and a mark is made on the table. At this point, a through hole is drilled.
The edge of the stop is connected to the base with a thumbscrew. Then, using an angle piece, a stop angle of 90 degrees is set with a guide line for the notch trimmer. Through the second hole a mating hole is made in the base.
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The second, often used angle is 45 degrees. For exact positioning of the stop, the author uses such a protractor, and also drills a hole in the base.
The base is turned over, and the holes are slightly drilled on the back side.Nuts M8 are hammered into these places.
Sawing table a low-budget variant.
I ordered a sawing table from my scumbag grandfather a Makita MLT100.But the end of the year wasn’t particularly easy a goat year, which explains a lot.The constant lack of money made me think about whether I’m really ready to give away 380 for a panel sawing table.?I don’t think I’m ready right now.In general the crisis is good While the official in the sweat of his face thinking about the people, about how to buy the latest model Maybach and a new golden toilet bowl in his palace, the people are turning their heads and remembering that they have hands.But that’s how it’s going to be someone will pull those hands to the bottle, and someone will take care of business.
I’m not ready for the bottle yetbut I’m ready for some cocksucking.And I decided to remake my “sawing table” of five years ago which was made in dire need, as much as 20 minutes from a piece of postforming Made in haste to make life easier, of course, was very uncomfortable and small and over the years postorming dried out and hung, which no longer gives a precise cut.
This time I wanted to do it cheapfastbut considering my needs.I went to the store and bought laminated chipboard (yes, such things are not correct to do from chipboard but, the reality is that the moisture-resistant plywood I could not find and admittedly, in Minsk, I do not see her in the eyes never).Took two pieces of 600x800x16 and 300x800x16.I bought an aluminum angle 20h40h2000 and channel 10h10h2000 (alas 10h15h2000 I could not find).Took 40 screws, two metal bars at 500mm.
Well, to business.Plate 600×800 became the base. Normal, convenient size.I cut 300×800 board into 50×800 lamellas.Of these made edging which added rigidity.All assembled using Kleiberit PUR 501.
Realizing that the circular saw without a “broach”, it’s mostly bullshit I knew exactly what “broach” I need!Milled a hollow in the channel floor and glued it with Soudal Fix All Classic.
It’s a pity that the channel was a 10 instead of 15 Well, what do I have I’ll find it, maybe I’ll remake it.Then I milled the tracks for the ruler.
I cut rulers to size, precisely positioned them on the disk and glued them with Soudal.
Then I got to work on the parallel stop.I had no desire to squeeze the piece of wood every time with screw clamps, and I decided to make the stop on the factory sawing machines analogy.The basis of the aluminum corner 20×40.It does not have much stiffness, so I reinforced it with a wooden plank, gluing them with fix all-.I riveted a 20×20 angle to the back part of the guideThis will allow me to position the stop perpendicular to the table.And here with mountings I decided to make a bit of a mess.To realize the idea, I needed a piece of aluminum.
Where to get a piece of aluminum?Sawed off from the disk )
I took the clamp I didn’t need and borrowed the parts I needed from it.
I’ve joined the parallel stop with two bolts with anaerobic glue.
It’s very comfortablenot much worse than the factory quick release stops.
Then there are the little things the installation of the outlet, the wiring, the switch Button in the saw is fixed.
All this works in conjunction with a vacuum cleaner with an autopower.I forgot to take a picture of the broach carriagebut everything is clear there.The circular now is based on a 160 discit’s certainly not enough.Thickness of cut is 37mm at the moment.
I’ll probably buy and install another circular saw in a month based on a 210 or 235 disk.It will definitely be a circular saw with a riving knife.If I put a circular saw with 210-235 blades, then I will surely put together a soft-start module for the saw.
Of course, it’s the economy optionneed is compelling.And it does not fully replace the factory productespecially when it comes to sawing at angles.My table has two positions madeat 90 and 45 degrees.That’s usually enough.Excluding circular saw, which was in the householdthe cost of all materials (without glue) was 30even taking into account the saw on the 235th disk, the cost of such a machine would not exceed 160which is exactly two times cheaper, a factory table like Bosch or Makita.
Circular saw table with guide (cross-cutting)
Step one: the base The craftsman makes the base of the table out of plywood. The size of the table must meet your requirements. He cuts a piece of plywood sheet 63 by 81 cm. To one of the wide sides, he fixes a 55 cm bar. A guide rail will be resting on the plywood. If the thickness of the material you are cutting will be more than 5 cm, then you need to mount a larger bar.
Step two: guide Now you need to make a guide for the circular saw. The master measures the distance from the edge of the circular saw’s sole to the disc, minus 1-2 cm. Cuts the board to this width. The length of the board is equal to the width of the table. He cuts three slats, one to support the opposite edge of the sole, and two for the curbs.
Step three: the support bar The guide will be attached to two bars; the front one is already fixed to the table, now the back one must be made. The master puts the two halves of the guide on the table and sets the saw on it (a block should be put under the guides so that the disk does not rest against the table). Measures the distance between the flanges at the beginning, middle and end of the guide. The spacing should be the same everywhere. Cut a bar equal to the measured size.
Step four: installing the guide rail. When installing the guide it is important to maintain a right angle. The master uses a square and after alignment fixes the rail with clamps to avoid shifting when fixing. Then drill holes and fasten most of the guide with screws.
Screws the second (smaller) part of the rail. Here it is also necessary to maintain the right angle and distance between the ribs. The saw blade must move freely along the guide rail, but it must not wobble. Once the guide is fastened the craftsman lowers the disk and makes a shallow cut into the table.
Features of the hand-held circular saw
The tool is based on an electric motor with a circular sawblade mounted on the shaft. Models from different manufacturers have approximately the same design.
The products are equipped with a lot of additional devices:
- Start button with a speed regulator;
- A protective guard;
- Extendable parallel stop;
- Controls kerf depth, tilt angle;
- Sawdust discharge spigot.
The saw blade rotates toward the base plate, “on itself. The main rule when working with a manual circular saw: first, start the engine so that the disc begins to rotate, then gently approach the surface to be treated.
The tool is convenient when carrying out such work:
- Sawing boards, plywood, chipboard;
- Cutting beams, slicing laths;
- Notching grooves for tongue and groove;
- Edge machining, chamfering;
- Cutting scrap wood into fuel.
Power of the device is chosen based on the needs of the user. For short-term domestic use, for processing workpieces up to 4.5 cm thick, power up to 1.2 kW is sufficient. Semi-professional tools have a power of 1.8 kW, cut workpieces up to 6.5 cm thick.
Professional equipment with power of 2,2 kW can withstand continuous loads, leaves a kerf of up to 8,5 cm. Woodworking companies use saws with power up to 5.5 kW; their weight is up to 100 kg.
How to make a circular saw bench with your own hands at home
Factory designs are made mostly of metal. they are designed for electric saws. But your task is to make the assembly process as easy and cheap as possible. Therefore. replace metal with wood or plywood.
If you choose wood as the material, give preference to species:
Self-made table is designed for handheld circular saws, or tools, the power of which. no more than 1100 watts. The advantage of metal machines is their resistance to moisture. To increase the resistance of wood, all parts are treated with water-repellent impregnation before assembly.
A plywood table is ideal. Choose moisture-resistant varieties. they practically do not deform.
Since a certain part of the blade is inside the worktop, the depth of cut is reduced in proportion to this distance.
Tip! Choose a saw with a larger disc diameter, and make the table surface thinner, but stiffer and stronger.
For more comfort was to work, complement the product longitudinal and angular stops.
Making a carriage for a circular saw with your own hands
On the functionality and quality work of the stationary circular saw to a large extent affects the presence of devices. One of these is the carriage. It is absolutely easy to perform it at home, but the implementation of facing and sawing material at an angle of 45 ° will be much easier.
You can make this fixture for a circular saw from a sheet of plywood as follows:
cut the plywood a little wider than the table of the circular saw;
The carriage for the circular saw can be made by hand.
- In the lower part, the guide bars are attached with glue or screws, the distance between them should be equal to the width of the table;
- the top in a similar manner, using screws or glue, the thrust bars are fixed.
The carriage is guided on the table by a guide rail and moves along the saw blade that makes a continuous cut in the device. The height of the skirts, which must be greater than the protruding saw blade, maintains the integrity and rigidity of the carriage. If you want to make a cut at an angle of 45° you need to use additional plank that is a detachable element of this attachment. The cut is made by pressing the workpiece against an angled bar.
To keep the plywood surface of the carriage free from sawing residues it must be varnished with several layers of varnish.