Simple drill stand with chain and sprocket drive
Drill strictly at a right angle just holding it in your hands is almost impossible. If you need to make precise holes, then you should install it on a stand. Many brands offer such devices, but even the most little-known of them cost almost more than the drill itself. If you are not willing to overpay, you can make a stand with your own hands.
- Sheet steel 6-10 mm;
- Pipe 32 mm, 40 mm, 50 mm;
- profile pipe 20×40 mm;
- nuts, bolts;
- compression spring;
- timing chain;
- 20 mm strip;
What parts the fixture will consist of?
Drill jigs are sure to have the following parts:
- Stand. This is the main support element of the future machine.
- Stand. It is necessary for fixing the carriage with the drill and its movement.
- Mechanism of the stroke. The most common option is a special handle. It can be used to move the drill to the part to be drilled.
- Additional attachments. With their help it is possible to expand the capabilities of the stand.
How to fix the drill horizontally
Drill in hand, drill, wall or board. such an elementary algorithm is clear and familiar to any home craftsman. Appetite comes with food, and you want to use the tool more rationally.
Using simple devices, an ordinary electric drill can be turned into a set of power tools:
- sharpening machine;
- Circular saw (with safety measures).
This is not a complete list, a skilled craftsman will be able to “make” the tool to perform other tasks. Of course, holding a tool in your hands, you can’t do any of these things.
Some kind of holder for the body, the so-called “third hand” is needed. Such devices exist: in any electrical goods store you can pick up a holder for a drill.
Actually the purpose of the device is quite simple: to fix the body of the drill in a certain position, so that your hands can hold the workpiece to be machined.
Also, some drill attachments (like a grinding wheel), tend to throw the tool aside when it touches the workpiece. To keep the workpiece and the drill in the same position is impossible if you use only the power of the hands.
Of course, you can try to fix the power tool in a vise, but this is an unreliable way, in addition, you can damage the housing. Tool manufacturers have taken care of this possibility. every drill has a special cylindrical form in the area of the spindle’s rotation: the so-called “neck.
Technologically, this is the attachment point for the auxiliary handle. Structurally, this is the best point for securing the tool.
Inside the neck is the main bearing of the rotating shaft, so the positioning of the tool is quite balanced. It is enough to fix a clamp on the workbench, put the neck of the drill into it and we get an electric motor with a spindle (chuck).
How the simplest drill rig is constructed
Durable clamping clamp-type, holds the device on any flat surface (table, workbench, stool, the vertical wall of a shelf). The base is fixed with a clamp, in which the power tool is fixed. The articulation can be rigid, so the position of the drill cannot be changed.
Some models are equipped with a swivel clamp mechanism. The rotation is in one plane (plane of the table). It is also possible to fix the drill clamp permanently by removing the clamp (screw clamp). True, for this you will have to drill a hole in the table. So this method is only suitable for the workbench in the workshop.
When you put the drill in this holder, you get at least a sharpening machine.
In the chuck is inserted a disc for sandpaper (Velcro), and you can not only sharpen the knives for the spouse, but also to process a workpiece of complex shape.
And if you fix the stop in front of the disk, you can grind quite hard materials: metal, stone, etc. If your holder is reliable enough, you can organize a mini circular saw.
Important! No manufacturer of circular saw blades foresees such a use. Work with self-made circular saw is potentially dangerous.
One popular application of such a holder is a mini lathe from a drill.
- simplicity (consequently low cost).
- ensures a firm grip (fewer joints = more stable structure).
- the fixture can hold sufficiently heavy tools.
- Freedom of movement of the drill in relation to the working plane (table, workbench) is limited.
holder with two degrees of freedom
the fixture has two swivel joints between the clamp (clamping clamp) and the clamp to fix the drill. The axes of rotation of hinges are under 90°, and allow positioning the tool at any angle to the work plane of the workbench. You can see it in the illustration.
Of course, such a holder can not be fixed directly on the workbench (stationary), it works only with a clamp. It is not possible to quickly direct the axis of rotation: for safety reasons, first one joint is fixed, then the second.
Nevertheless, this attachment makes it possible to use the drill as a milling machine, with an arbitrary shaft position. Or you just position the pivot axis as you like it at the moment.
- Extended freedom of rotation axis positioning.
- Uncomfortable position adjustment, you have to lock the joints one at a time. In addition, there are certain restrictions on the size of the power tool (a large drill can not be fixed in such a holder).
- There are questions about reliability: the more joints, the lower the accuracy and durability.
How the stand is made?
Drill holders must always be fitted with a stand. It is the quality of making this assembly that determines the quality of drilling operations in the future. To prevent the drill from deflecting and consequently damaging the workpiece and breaking, it is important for the foreman to maintain a vertical alignment in relation to the bed when making the stand. You can make a vertical upright out of a bar, plywood plate, pipe or metal profile. It all depends on imagination and the availability of the necessary material.
Drill Holder. This is a simple device for those who do not have an emery machine. Will be useful to any craftsman.
Making a stand for power tools
One such plate is not enough, because it is too light, so we saw another one. Place on top and trace the contour with a marker.
We need two more of these clamps. These fasten the pipes, they are full of construction stores absolutely any diameter.
The rubber pads won’t put too much pressure on the tool body and won’t let it move anywhere. Now we can work.
You can see all the examples. The stand is very simple and very comfortable. With a little vibration it won’t tip over.It is also necessary to clamp the trigger or the tool switch with a plastic tie rod or some other way before the work. Be extremely vigilant when operating the tool in this position. I recommend making a foot pedal button, so that when you press it with your foot, the tool is turned on.
Drill holder with ball joint
This “third hand” allows you to angle the tool in one motion. Freedom of movement is limited by the hemisphere, i.e. you can move it freely in space.
This design is familiar to many: car holders for smartphones and DVRs work on the same principle. Except that the drill is not a cell phone, so the ball clamp has special strength requirements.
It must not loosen the “grip” of strong vibrations, and at the same time the effort to loosen the nut must not be too great. Otherwise you lose your greatest asset: speed of movement.
- You can put the drill in every position with one move of your hand.
- with such holder you can use only a light tool.
- The cost of this device is the highest.
Based on the home tasks, you can either choose the type of holder from our review, or make it yourself (assuming responsibility for safety).
The drill stand for the drill with my own hands!
PS. This is a prototype! Will be reworked or completely remade.
Profiled pipe table top 2020. Polished with a coral wheel. The Thing! I wish I had bought it sooner!
The vertical from a tube 1515. Also made of profiled pipe 2020. The drill bit and foot is 2040 and a tube from a piece of shock absorber, I cut out the middle and it was just the right size for the drill.
The shock absorber is a normal furniture short. Handle made on the hinges from profile pipes 1515 and 2020.Now I will test it and in the second part I will tell you how and what))
The shock absorber’s pushing force is literally 5% greater than the pressure of the drill and cage, so it goes up easily, but it doesn’t pop out
And that’s where it all started. the shock absorbers. Got some dead and rusty ones. Rods were corroded. In the end decided to pull out and use only the rods and the top of the cup.
But this guide turned out to be very tight once and very sensitive to the parallelism between the rods. Tried to straighten it out but failed. Although there was some degree of freedom, but the guide just jammed. After several hours of trying, I gave up and put it aside for a vice.
Neither the spring nor the two furniture shock absorbers were able to pull the rack to its original upper position. Т.е. No smoothness, everything jerks.
That’s how it turned out. It’s a prototype of a rack, I’ll tell you right away. There is some play, I show it in the video. I’ll be testing and tweaking.
This is the end of the series)) Operation and modifications are coming soon!PSS. There are a few similar threads on this drive and a lot of constructive feedback, so I will use the experience of my friends and do it the smart way!Thank you for your attention!
If anyone is interested, here are a few more of my topics:
5 December 2021 Tags: vertical stand for the drill. The vertical stand for the drill with my own hands. Makeshift drill press. programmer’s garage
The necessary materials:
Mark and fix on a bar 90×45 moving elements of ball guides.The length of the bar must match the length of the guides (in my case it is 30 cm).
For the uprights we will use a bar with a similar cross section. you will need two pieces of 70 cm each. On the uprights we will fix the counterparts of the rails with wood screws.
To the lower ends of the posts fasten the base of plywood, size 290×500 mm. For rigidity on the back side of the future drilling machine we attach a bar 50×50 mm.
Check the perpendicularity of the base and rails with a square.Do not ignore this step. The more accurate will be on each step of the assembly, the easier will be to adjust perpendicularity of the drill axis to the base on the last step. 6. We reinforce the upper part of the stand plywood plate 10 mm, size. 90×204 mm.
To secure the drill to the slide, I used an old handle I found from another drill (you can use the regular handle if you don’t use it).Mark the contour. We saw off the excess (which will not affect the stiffness and will only interfere with the work). Make a hole for the drill with a diameter of a few millimeters larger than the hole in the handle.
Why I don’t use a drillpress table
To fix the slide in the upper position we use springs. Using two hooks and two springs, we obtain a safe return of the slide even with a heavy drill.
If necessary, adjust the angle of fixing the elements of the slider with each other.12. We make a movable table with the possibility of adjusting the height of the table.Necessary materials for the table:
For installation I used the fasteners that were on hand. bolts M6, M10, M8 sanitary rod, washers and nuts to them.
I have known for a long time that there are two main problems in the garage: to cut off evenly and to drill evenly. I decided to start with a drill. Fully-functional drill press was considered, but it costs a lot and weighs a lot. I wanted relative mobility. take and carry if necessary. In this case there should be no backlash at all. Drill for that case bought on occasion a few years ago, an old but working IE-1035. While making a stand for it worked with her hands. liked it, powerful. But it’s heavy So for the base I took a 160 channel from scrap metal, trimmed it to length and brought it to the lathe operator for milling so that the surface was flat.
How to build a Drill Press(Drill Guide) Machine | Handmade Drill stand
The guide decided to do from the shock-absorber rod. a common solution, but there is a disadvantage. the length of the stroke of the drill is limited by the length of the rod itself. No backlash. But to have no backlash. the length of the carriage should be longer and I took three pieces. from two racks. I took a rod from Kalina-2 (it is longer), additional bushing from Cayaba. The diameter of the rod was of course the same in both stands.
By the way what is a shame. both struts are out of order because of defects, not because of wear and tear. In Kalina broke the bottom thrust ring welded to the rod. In the Kayab’s. the bottom seal was torn off and folded (as a result the rack worked only in compression). I assembled the carriage from parts of shells and welded it together.
To make it clear, here is a schematic diagram of the future device
By this point it was obvious to me that I was going “slightly” beyond the “light and reliable” drill stand. It becomes clear that it will be either light or reliable. As Boris the Razor said: weight is reliability. It also became clear that I can’t do it in an evening or two in the garage with a beer. But I want to drill straight, so I continued to increase the weight. Drive shaft and pinion assembly took from IZHEV gearbox. I bent (or rather unbent) the rack out of a Zigulov flywheel crown. Corners and profile tubes. in assortment. Separately, I used bearings to prevent rotation of the carriage around the axis of the rod
Then there was a happy moment. the first drill, a new sharp drill on 8mm (I broke this drill two days later when finishing installation). At this point the installation looked like this:
And I also found out that something sags under load. I did not immediately understand what it was, began to look. I thought the pipe 50X50, but it turned out. the same Kalina rod sagging in the center. Honestly speaking. the desire to finish the project a little bit immediately diminished, the mood dropped. I was cutting, sawing, welding. all in vain? But after a quiet smoke, I decided, for the sake of interest, to check under what kind of load it deflects? I found out some interesting things for me. First: With my mass of 100 kg (I like to eat, preferably at night) in the wall drill I press about 35 kg, the floor I press 55 kg. And 55 kg in the floor is usually enough to drill everything necessary. So. my machine tool presses the drill bit more than 100 kg. 100 kg per drill! If it drills badly at such pressure, the problem is evidently in the sharpening of the drill bit. Secondly, after a little bit of experimentation (the third time I typed without mistake) I found out that the rod begins to bend after 70 kg. And I want to say that such a force on the drill bit is achieved without much effort on the hand wheel, and now that I have often drilled, I can say that such efforts in the hell are not needed, and this means that the sag in fact any work no.Separately, I will say about the return spring. At first I did not want to do it, but it turned out to be uncomfortable to work without it. I took the spring from a ten year old trunk, shortened it a little. It works inside the pipe, the drive rope and rollers are from the windshield lifter of a vintage car
For convenience made the stroke limiter in the form of clamps. brought the drill to the workpiece, fixed and drilled so that the stroke was always about a quarter of a turn.
Of course I’ve made a hand wheel, for hub used part of clutch basket from the same IZhA. it fits to the shaft by slits. Balls with threads not found in stores, used the handle from the Oka gearbox, at the disassembly looked at me askew, but sold (100 for 3 pcs)
The result is such a beauty:
What can I say. I almost forgot about the drill, I drill only on the stand. Very handy and necessary for work. There is some mobility, but certainly is heavy, but it drills precisely. The lead of the drill bit by my measurements. about 0,2 mm for 50 mm of the stroke of the drill bit, which for household needs I think is acceptable. Work without a drill vise. complete crap! Besides, it’s dangerous, small workpieces get ripped out of hands and even out of pliers, so making a vise is high on the list of priorities.And of course if you want to see a detailed version of the creation of the tool. in the video below