How to fix a mixer in a rotary hammer

Can I use the rotary drum as a mixer??

It is important to understand that the weaker the power tool, the harder it will work. When it comes to the use of a drill, it should be borne in mind that not every model is designed for this kind of load. For example, a 500 watt device is not able to mix the construction mixture properly. The drill motor is sure to be out of action if operated intensively. Such a tool can mix a mortar only in very small volumes (about 10 liters) and for a short time. It is also important that it is not thick concrete, but putty, primer, or similar mixtures.

quite another matter. an electric drill with a powerful motor 1300 W, better 1500 W. A similar model can quite cope with mixing mortar. However, you should still not overload the tool with excessive work intensity and try to knead too thick.

As for using it for kneading with an axe, this is a more sensible solution. This tool is designed for heavy loads and is equipped with a powerful power unit. Nevertheless, it is better to take frequent breaks when kneading concrete.

mixer, rotary, hammer

How to chop wood with a drill? Just!

Turns out you can do it with a construction tool! This method of chopping firewood is no more terrible than the usual method with an axe. So say the homeowners with experience. What you need to prepare for it? In addition to the drill. practically nothing, except for the keyless cartridge.

Setting a moderate number of turns (a large number of them will not speed up the process, but will lead to the fact that many chips fly in all directions), run over to the most important thing:

  • Position the log so that the cone is right in its center, perpendicular to the log. The splitting will be sharp and trouble-free.
  • Gently twist it three times in one direction and later in the other.

Tips: Since you’ll be chopping wood at low speeds, it’s enough seeder low power, like a cheap Bort BSM-540 weighing 1.3 kilograms.

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They say that the home device is perfectly suitable for apple wood across 10-12 cm, it is also used for hardwood.


There are good reasons to consider the mixer. Its internal structure is very similar to that of a stand-alone mixer. Both machines have an electric motor that generates torque and transmits it to the shaft. Already the shaft serves as a base for a specialized attachment. Because the key performance parameters are closely linked just with the energy released by the electric motor.

The peorator can be found on construction and repair sites more often than other tools that have a rotating part. The appropriate mode for mixing mortars is an imitation of a drill. System easily adjusts RPM on command. If you have to stir the most viscous liquid, it is advisable to choose an agitator with a short length of blades. But it is important to realize that the torch itself is an expensive and highly sensitive device and is easily subject to breakdown.

Rules of operation and storage

Household series stirrers can usually operate continuously for no more than twenty minutes, then they should be given a break of about 5-6 minutes. Such a device may not operate for more than twenty hours each week. All recommendations for operation are included as a memo in the manual, which should be carefully read before starting work.

  • The workplace should be well lit;
  • Do not operate in rooms with explosive, flammable materials;
  • Children should be kept away from the operating device;
  • During work, you cannot be distracted by other things;
  • The power cord and gearbox lubrication should be checked before use;
  • If the unit is double-insulated, it must not be connected to a third lead which is earthed;
  • If the machine is double-insulated, it is imperative that it be connected to an earthed mains socket;
  • Do not touch any pipes, radiators, refrigerators, etc., while operating the torch. п.;
  • If you are working in an area with high humidity, a breaker must be present: it disconnects the torch from the power supply;
  • in rooms with high humidity, rubber gloves and shoes must be worn;
  • moisture must not get on the torch;
  • Keep the electrical cord away from oily liquids or moving parts;
  • It is strictly forbidden to work under the influence of alcohol;
  • Long hair and loose clothing can cause injuries; avoid getting your clothes or hair caught in the moving parts of the machine in advance;
  • Before operating the machine, check that all keys are in OFF mode;
  • When you have finished debugging the auger, remove all accessories from the surface of the auger;
  • Before operating the machine, make sure that all buttons are in OFF position;
  • Always use goggles, gloves and a respirator;
  • Special footwear and helmet must also be worn when carrying out the respective work;
  • If necessary, always use clamps, clamps, vise;
  • Do not operate the torch with overloading. this will cause damage to the device;
  • If the ON/OFF button on the torch is broken, it is forbidden to operate the torch;
  • When debugging the drill, disconnect the unit from the power supply;
  • Preventive maintenance should be done in a timely manner;
  • You should regularly do a professional inspection of the machine, checking it for deformities or other breakages;
  • units from other gears can be traumatizing because they are not compatible with each other;
  • Repair work on the unit should only be carried out by an authorized service center;
  • All accessories and consumables for the torch must be “genuine”;
  • cleaning plastic surfaces with aggressive chemicals will cause damage;
  • check regularly if the unit is lubricated by opening the cover on the rotator housing;
  • Always lubricate the tail end of the auger when starting work with it;
mixer, rotary, hammer
  • Do not use drill bits instead of a drill in any way;
  • Before drilling into any wall (concrete, brick) the unit must run idle for a couple of minutes;
  • Do not apply any additional physical force when working as this could cause the electric motor to overheat;
  • regular preventive inspections of drills and nozzles should be made;
  • all the holes through which the air exchange occurs must be regularly cleaned.
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Nozzles for construction mixer: shapes and sizes

Nozzle for the electric construction mixer is a rod, on one end of which is a whisk for mixing, and on the other end of which is a shank for attaching the nozzle to the drive. Once you have decided on the mix you want to mix, you can choose the shape of the whisk. And the shank standard of the bit should fit your power tool.

Tailstock varieties for mixer nozzles

Now on sale is a large number of mixer bits with shanks of various shapes:

mixer, rotary, hammer
  • Common hex, size 8, 9 or 10 mm. These attachments are designed for use in power tools that have a conventional cam chuck.
  • Hexagonal socket (8, 10 or 12 mm) with groove for spring attachment in HEX chucks (they can also be used in power tools with a conventional chuck).
  • Threads M12, M14 and 21X1.5. Devices with such shanks may only be used in highly specialized mixers.
  • Tail bits designed for SDS-plus bits (can also be used in a simple peorator).

Sizes and shapes of mixer nozzles

  • Standard lengths: 400 and 600 mm (some models are provided with 400 mm extensions, for a total length of up to 1 m).
  • Diameter of mixer whisk (the part used for mixing) from 80 to 220 mm.

The shape of the whisk is chosen depending on the mixture to be mixed. The main shapes of the mixer‘s whisk:

  • Spiral-shaped. These corollas are divided into right-handed corollas, in which the spiral is wound clockwise, and left-handed corollas, in which the spiral is wound counterclockwise. Whisk attachments on the right-hand side lift up the mortar from below during the mixing process and are designed for heavy or thick mixtures (concrete, sand-gravel, bituminous). Left-handed spirals, on the other hand, when stirring, grab the mixture from above and bring it down. They are designed for mixing various paint preparations, various flowable mixtures and liquid fillers, because they do not splash out.

Also for note! If a construction mixer is equipped with a reverse rotation system, providing both clockwise and anti-clockwise rotation of the whisk, only one attachment (right- or left-handed) can be used for different mix compositions.

  • Whisk arms with straight blades. Mixing takes place only on a horizontal plane, which prevents air from being trapped and getting into the mixture. Suitable for mixing various plaster-based compounds (air ingress is highly undesirable), self-leveling floor mixtures, etc.
  • Screw corners (the screw is usually made of plastic). Mainly used for lightweight liquid mixtures. Sometimes there are two screws on the axle: the lower one, which lifts the components to the top, and the upper one, which prevents the mixture from splashing out.

Important! In the technical description, manufacturers specify the type of mixture a particular whisk is designed for, as well as the maximum recommended amount of mortar for which it is designed.

Depending on size, material and application

Recommended bits

We recommend the STARTUL 120x600mm SDS mixer tool and GEPARD 120x600mm M14 mixer tool.

The 120x600mm SDS STARTUL whisk is a right-handed spiral and is suitable for drills and rotary tools with SDL-Plus socket. Recommended mixing speed 600 rpm, the nozzle is used for all kinds of heavy and viscous mixtures (plasters, fillers, resins, concretes, etc.).

GEPARD 120×600 mm M14 whisk has M14 shaft with 105/120 mm basket height and diameter. By configuration, it is a right-handed spiral, the optimal speed of battering is 600 rpm.

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In the end, it is advisable to choose a mixer with a special focus on the type of shank, since a mistake will lead to a situation where the whisk simply won’t fit on the rotary drum or the drill.

Mixing Concrete with an Electric Mixer: Features and Working Techniques

Anyone who builds a house himself, without hired workers, wants to simplify his task. For example, using a concrete mixer to mix concrete. Quality concrete mixer is not a pleasure and cheap. Many would say that its price will pay for itself during the construction season. But I want to save money and not to break my back, mixing concrete with a shovel. That’s where the idea comes in. to use an electric mixer to knead sand, cement and gravel mortar.

I saw a YouTube video. a man, single-handedly, using a twin-spindle mixer, mixed concrete and poured a strip foundation in two days. I thought that maybe this is an advertisement for the tool? The builder says that it is more convenient to mix with a mixer than with a concrete mixer. The question for me is relevant. I was mixing concrete in a concrete mixer. It is difficult to do it alone. I have to lift buckets. Load the bag. I rented a concrete mixer. I have nowhere to store mine. And with a mixer you can mix concrete on the spot. It doesn’t weigh much. Tell me. is it realistic if you knead small amounts? Maybe someone has already used a mixer? The tool won’t break?

I think the tools should be used strictly for their intended purpose. Mixer is needed to mix plaster and adhesive mixes, and concrete mixer concrete. A mixer‘s weakest point. the nozzles. The whisk, on heavy concrete with gravel, can have its blades torn off or bend.

Compare the price of a normal mixer and a concrete mixer. The difference is small. I think health is more important! With a concrete mixer you can work with two people. One to carry the sand and gravel, the other to keep an eye on the mix. You work alone with a mixer. That takes a lot of strength. You will get tired quickly. My concrete mixer’s 10 years old, and it’s paid for itself.

Now let’s hear the opinion of those FORUMHOUSE participants who actually used a mixer to mix the concrete.

I used a mixer to pour a strip foundation for the fence. The length of the belt is 25 meters. The cross-section is 200×300 mm. I also concreted a 5-meter lintel for the gate and the wicket. According to my experience, it is not the work with the mixer that gets more tired, but throwing sand, cement and gravel, and pulling the concrete out. But you got to put the ingredients in the mixer, too. You have to wash it afterwards, and the mixer just twirls in the water and goes home. Of course, I would not dare to pour a house foundation with a mixer, but, for small amounts, it is a good option.

  • First he stirred the sand and cement dry.
  • Then I added water. The consistency of the mixture is like sour cream.
  • Then I poured three buckets of gravel. Then I stirred the mixture. Then I added one more.5 buckets of gravel.

I used a two-spindle mixer to mix concrete in a cast-iron tub. Two spindles are better than one. The torque is dampened and, in case of a wedge, will not wind up on the tool. I threw in cement, sand, crushed gravel 5-20 fractions. Kneaded for ten minutes and 200 liters of mix is ready. I would not say it was easy, but it was not hard either. Crushed stone between the augers did not jam. The tool did not break.

Anyway. I listened to everyone, and also decided to mix the concrete mixer. Reporting to. Knead about 1.5 cubic meters of concrete for a pile foundation. The mix is stiff. Proportion: 1 part cement, 3 parts sand, 4 parts crushed stone and 0.75 liters of water. I mixed in a trough for 100 liters. I did 5-7 mixes a day. Couldn’t do it anymore. Really tired hands, especially the brushes. I can’t say I’m weak, but the eversion stress on the joints is decent. Crushed stone fraction 5-20 did not get stuck between the corollas. ♪ The tool held up, too ♪. The verdict: the method is suitable for small amounts of one-time work.

I wonder if it is possible to pour with a mixer larger volumes? The construction experience of FORUMHOUSE users says: “Yes”.

I poured a mixer with my helpers 4 cubic meters of concrete. There were four people working. two men and two women. Women poured into buckets of cement and enriched sand-gravel mixture. One man kneads. The second one drags the buckets and then the two of us poured the mixture into the formwork. Mixing proportions: 1 bucket of cement, 1 bucket of sand, 3 buckets of sand and gravel mix, 0.Seven buckets of water. All in all we did 115 mixes with a break. It was also raining. The old tub’s leaking, too. Fix it. In the end: we started at ten in the morning and finished at eleven o’clock in the evening. And then we did a little bit more in the morning. My back gets tired, but if I get used to holding the mixer without tilting, with feet wide apart, there is no fatigue. If we had started mixing at 7 a.m. and there were three men instead of women, it hadn’t rained and the tub hadn’t burst, I think we would have finished by 6 p.m. The mixer kneads the mixture quickly. The main fatigue is from dragging buckets with OPPS through the formwork and raising the bucket to the level of the formwork for pouring concrete.

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Veter753 tips on working with a mixer when mixing concrete:

  • First load water, cement and sand.
  • Knead the mixture until it is sour creamy.
  • Add 2 buckets of OPGS.
  • Knead the mixture to a gray uniform color.
  • Add another bucket of ODGS.
  • Knead it evenly again.

The two of us, in four days, poured a mixer 17 cubic meters of concrete. Monolithili slab. Concrete kneaded in the bathtub. We put it on the reinforcement inside the formwork and turn it upside down after every mix. Tired, of course, but you’d be tired with a concrete mixer, too. I liked working with the mixer. It mixes quickly. Our hands didn’t twist, our backs didn’t hurt, even though we used a single-spindle tool. Get more tired of carrying sand, cement, and crushed stone.

Restoration drill hammer

Choosing the right product

Peorator mixers have two main parts: the tailpiece and the working whisk. The size of the tip varies depending on the type of mix and the intended scope of work. Producers always write in the accompanying materials what mixes can be mixed. As with the choice of other products, it is useful to give preference to the products of reputable firms. Even a multiple difference in comparison with unknown brands is justified by the high quality of the products.

Great attention should be paid to the selection of whiskers according to the format of the shank. They traditionally have a cylindrical or hexagonal configuration. Also in some cases they use connectors M14 and SDL-Plus. The choice is determined by what kind of connector is provided by the manufacturers of the peorator. Bosch, for example, equips its products with SDL-Plus connectors.

Most of the time you can simply tell the salespeople for which device you are buying the mixer. They can offer you the optimum attachment. The basket of an ordinary whisk is 10 to 11 cm with a diameter of 8 to 15 cm. If you have a high power or a lot of fluids to mix, it is best to choose a larger basket. As for the length of the mixer, the choice is simple. you need to focus on the height of the container, where the mixture will be mixed.

The 50 to 60 cm long whiskers allow for easy mixing of the putty in the plastic bucket. Or shake the plaster in an additional box. At 600 rpm, the mixer will confidently handle even heavy and viscous media. When a repair is planned, a household level nozzle will do as well. But for building a house, it is advisable to choose something more serious.

A few tips for using a drilling tool

In order not to encounter the fact that the flying tool or concrete crumbs will harm your health, drilling work should be carried out in compliance with all safety measures. Safety goggles, gloves, earplugs or ear muffs should be used to ensure such safety. Naturally, all work should be performed in special clothes, which should not have dangling elements that may wind up on the drill.

In order to avoid overheating of the electric tool used for drilling, it is necessary to let it rest regularly. It is very important to insert the drill correctly (you have to do it as far as the stop of the tool).

Two ways to clamp a slim drill bit in a chuck if the jaws are a bit too far from the shank

If the drill bit is stuck in the wall during drilling, it should be extracted without removing the tool from its surface. In order to do this, the drill bit must be taken out of the drill bit and another one inserted, with the help of which one must start breaking down the wall around the drill bit that has got stuck in it.

If the drill does not come out of the drill or the torch, you must clamp it in a vise, and then with a hammer, using a wooden pad, tap on the cams of the clamping mechanism. Oil can help by putting a few drops in the key-type chuck.

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