How to cut tiles at 45 degrees. With an electric tile cutter

Cutting tiles at 45 degrees: how to do it best?

Tile cutting technology under 45 degrees allows you to aesthetically cover any outside corner when finishing walls with ceramic finishing materials. In this case, it allows you to get rid of the need to purchase and subsequent use of special decorative corners, whose appearance can adversely affect the overall design of the room. Plastic and metal corners are not only unaesthetic and unfashionable, but also not practical. Given this fact, it is worth to understand how the cutting of tiles at 45 degrees and what recommendations are worth observing in this case.

The technology of sharpening the ends under 45 degrees eliminates the need to use decorative corners when finishing outside corners. Thanks to this it will be possible to create an aesthetic appearance of the wall. These corners have a neater and more stylish appearance than those finished with corners. Agree, it’s much more interesting than overlapping tiles or pasted plastic.

Cutting a tile at 45 degrees

Tile cutter

Here we are talking about professionals who are engaged in similar work on a permanent basis. The two models of the company Feida are the most popular:

Despite the fact that they are made by Chinese companies, they have a high quality and precision cutting.

With their help to make absolutely any angle of tile that will be necessary for laying. Most often it is 45 degrees and is popular.

Also among the firms distinguished by reliability Einhell and Proton.

A lot of problems here arise when working with wavy tiles, when the tile cutter touches the glazed part. It becomes scraped and “torn”, which noticeably spoils the appearance. The work with tiles will usually be done by professionals. After all, no one will buy expensive equipment for personal use. Such work is carried out very rarely:

When ordering a service from a construction company, it is better to clarify its status and experience in this field. Not uncommon cases where a large number of tiles are “destroyed”. You should spell out every nuance in the signed agreement beforehand, so that there would be no problems in future litigation.

The quality of execution of filing under 45 degrees with the professional tile cutter will be immediately noticeable to everyone. In addition the work is carried out in a short time, which allows you to begin laying tiles almost immediately. Such design of tile corners will be to the liking of every owner of the room in which the tiles will be glued.

What tools are used to sharpen the ends of tiles at 45 degrees?

Cutting of porcelain tiles under 45 degrees often can be called as scoring, sharpening, trimming, overcutting. The point is the same in each case. The face of a tile is grinded so that it changed its right angle to the angle of 45 degrees.

Such an operation can be performed using different tools. But the best result and the highest quality of grinding the ends is achieved with the electric tile cutter, which is a special device for cutting and grinding the ends of tiles. In an extreme case it is allowed to use an angle grinder with a special wheel for cutting tiles. But in this case the cutter should have enough experience and skills to do the job qualitatively.

In any case it is worth getting acquainted with each of the methods of cutting porcelain tiles and tiles under 45 degrees.

Cutting tiles with an angle grinder

Cutting tiles at a 45 degree angle with an angle grinder is a rather laborious and technically complicated process. Not every experienced craftsman can accurately trim the end of the finishing material. True, with the proper skill and experience it is still possible to cope with it. In fact, the use of angle grinder. this is the most affordable way to cut tiles at home, since many homes have a similar tool, which can not be said about electric devices for sharpening or cutting ceramic finishing materials.

Before you start using the angle grinder, you should make sure that you have a good diamond disc, suitable for cutting ceramic tile and porcelain tile.

The presence of diamond spraying on the edge is a must

The tile is placed on the edge, and then the other edge, which is in a perpendicular position, is carefully sharpened with a diamond disc to an angle of 45 degrees. Remember that the back side of the tile should be roughened, not the glossy side.

If at first the surface is not perfectly flat, it can be smoothed, once again passing the diamond wheel. Also for this purpose can be suitable belt sander. It is true that not everyone has such a tool at home. Therefore, as an alternative, it can be suggested to use a wooden bar wrapped with sandpaper.

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You can also use Velcro sandpaper. Such nozzles are simply screwed on the angle grinder, after which the sandpaper is glued to them. You can use diamond nozzles, which have a longer life and higher performance. True, they cost significantly more than conventional sandpaper with velcro.

When finishing large areas it makes sense to spend money on buying diamond nozzles. If we are talking about finishing a small section of the wall, such as the apron in the kitchen, you can be limited to the use of abrasive circles.

Electric tile cutter

Can also be installed without feet

The tile cutter is a machine for cutting tiles at 45 degrees, as well as for cutting them longitudinally and transversely. Such a device has a water cooling system. In addition, water helps to remove almost all the dust that occurs during the cutting of porcelain tile or ceramic tile. The main advantage of the tile cutter is its precision. It cuts in a single, pre-determined path. This eliminates the influence of such factors as shaking hands of the master. As a result the cut is as even and accurate as possible.

Tile cutters can cut at virtually any angle. However, often masters cut the tile at an angle of 90 degrees or 45 degrees.

Tips from the experts

To work with porcelain tiles it is preferable to use a professional electric tile cutter, as it is adapted to work with the harder material. And this material itself costs more, so you want to minimize its loss during processing.

When sawing, you can make the angle not 45 degrees, but sharper. This will make it a little easier to glue the tiles at right angles.

When working with bevels in the corners, quality grout is very important, because you can even snag a tile with a nick with a clothes strap. This can lead to splintering of its fragment. If a chipping does occur, but you are not going to replace the tile at this time, grout will help hide the defect. They come in different colors, so pick up the right option in the color of ceramics is not difficult. There is also another option: use any available grout and touch it up with paint of the desired shade.

When, after laying tiles at the seams are visible minor flaws, such as from the failed grinding of the glaze, you can use masking compounds that will hide the imperfections. Such remedies are convenient to use. in the cap, as a rule, has a small brush. The main thing is to carefully study the instructions. Note that we are talking about very minor flaws, not chipped pieces of ceramic. Correcting agent will be indispensable if necessary “to discolor” a small crack on the tile, and on any ceramic product.

With sufficient experience with finishing materials you can do everything yourself. If you do not have the necessary skills, but finances allow hiring experienced workers, it is better to trust the professionals. then you can not doubt the quality of work.

See below how to make a tile filing at a 45-degree angle.

How to tile and form a right angle?

First you need to glue the first tile and align it. The trimmed edge will “fly out” beyond the plane of the wall.

Then immediately need to glue the second (counter) tile on the other side of the corner. While the glue is fresh and amenable to correction, it is necessary to form a beautiful right angle.

And so we gradually move upwards, row by row.

Before tiling a corner, make sure that you have a vertical wall.

Because if the walls will be a little tilted outward, then without steps corner will not come together. And it’s not very nice, believe me! And nothing you can not cover it and do not make up.

What’s it for??

To cut a tile under 45 degrees may be required in two cases:

  • When, for example, is implemented on the diagonal. Accordingly, the products themselves will have to be trimmed diagonally, at 45 degrees.
  • When an outside or inside corner is joined. And the bevel is needed for the edge to form a beautiful and even corner, without plastic and other corners.

Since the goal is determined, we can move on to the basis. what to cut the tiles under 45 degrees.

Tools

To make a high-quality and even cut without chips and cracks is possible only with the help of special devices, each of which has its own advantages.

Electric machine

The main advantage of this tile cutter is a clear and high-quality cut on the tile, which is carried out in two directions: an ordinary straight cut and a special cut at an angle of 45 degrees. Thanks to the rotation of the cutting wheel at a certain angle to the cut part of the tile is easy to make the cut, starting from 0 and up to 45 degrees. The electric machine can have a water feed function, due to which less dust is released, or it can have a conventional design. But both variants of these devices provide the same quality of work and guarantee the cutting of a big amount of tiles in a short period of time.

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In the case of cutting concave tiles, the electric tile cutter does not follow the concave deflection of the product. Therefore, only the back side can be cut, so as not to damage the enamel on the front part. This is especially true for porcelain tile.

  • A special masking tape;
  • a simple pencil;
  • a small ruler;
  • tile cutter;
  • angle grinder with adjustable speed.

On the part of the tile where the cut will take place, it is necessary to glue masking tape. Use a pencil and a ruler to make the necessary marks. Then place the tile on a specific section of the appliance at a 45-degree angle. On the principle of a circular saw, the tiles are cut with a diamond band. In some models, during the cut, water is supplied, which protects the tile from melting and washes away the dust.

If the glaze on the outside of the tile is damaged, the cut will be ugly with cracks and scored edges, which when laid side by side will have a sloppy appearance. Therefore, when working with an electric tile cutter, you must carefully remove only the clay layer.

Professional secrets of experienced tilers:

  • Using a tile cutter is necessary to achieve an even cut;
  • Then form the necessary angle on the back side of the product;
  • The glaze, which has been caught in the work process, is scraped off with sandpaper.

Manual tile cutter

The handheld tile cutter is popular not only with professional tilers, but also with amateurs. Many models of such tile cutters are equipped with a special rotating base and a built-in ruler, which allow you to make a high-quality 45-degree tile cut. Inserting the tile in the tile cutter at a certain degree, it is necessary to align the mark on the tile and the construction tool. Putting the knob down, you need to move it slowly with equal speed and even pressure in the direction from yourself.

angle grinder

Despite the fact that such a construction device is present in almost every home, it is very difficult to cut tiles under a 45 degree angle with an angle grinder by yourself.

For a quick and smooth cut of the tile must be installed on the device diamond wheel. The tile should be placed under the rib with the outer side to the bottom. Now it is necessary to grind the back side of the ceramic tile with an angle grinder at 45 degrees.

You can’t make a clean, even cut the first time. Therefore, after the angle is formed, it is necessary to repeat the process and go over the diamond wheel angle grinder on the cut edge. This is the only way to make the corner even.

To form a corner on the tiles it is necessary to choose the right angle grinder, because not all models can perform the necessary functions. In this case, it’s worth buying a construction tool that has adjustable speeds.

At the beginning of the work should set the minimum speed at which the edges of the tile will be grinded and not burned.

Laying and trimming tiles: Mistakes everyone makes

Houzz regular contributor. Interior designer and decorator, head of the studio “Cosy Flat”, trendsetter and colorist of premium interiors.

If all customers ordered the project of the complete cycle (with a complete set, copyright supervision). there would be no reason to write this article. But there are newcomers who will control the work of a tiler at the site on their own. And therefore it is my duty as a designer to warn them against possible mistakes.

After all, we do not want interiors “on three” with crooked-slanted tiles, right?

Conclusion: If you want something special, look for a craftsman with the appropriate experience. Master, who easily coped with the tile at your friends, may be powerless before the designer 3D-tile. And vice versa, if you want to save money. warn the designer right away, so he will not offer in the project some complicated in the laying of tile options.

Mistake: Do not level the wallIf the wall seems flat, there is a temptation not to prepare it for tile laying. and this will lead to disappointment in 100% of cases. Undercuts in the corners will expand or shrink upward, the same will happen with the tiles on the floor. all because the walls were too lazy to make a 90 degree angle. Such tiles, as in the photo, on the “fallen” walls can not put.

Mistake : Do not look at all the tiles after buying Look at the intense artificial lighting. about the same light will be in your bathroom. It happens that batches differ in color a little, and this happens even with expensive manufacturers. In this case, the tiles must be rearranged and placed next to each other elements of the same tone. For example, those that are darker, put on the wall, where there is less light.

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Mistake: Trim a tile from one edge of the wall Imagine: “front” section of the wall, a beautiful bathtub is inscribed in the niche, and on the right or left. a thin five-centimeter “tail” of the cut tiles. This is the case if the tiles are laid from the corner, and by the opposite corner it turns out that the last one needs to be trimmed. How to get it right: Tiles can only be laid from a corner if you have counted in advance and know exactly how many tiles fit in the corner. Sometimes it’s even easier and cheaper to build a little on top of the wall with a sheet of drywall. Or second possibility: You have a tile with a rhythmic vertical pattern, as in the project in the photo. In this case even a narrow undercut will not be noticeable.

Fact: Quite often in the course of a project, one article is replaced by another, from stock in the stores. And the designer usually redo the layout to reflect the new dimensions.

Mistake : To “cut in strips” on the edges of the wall Exactly this effect. two strips on the edges. is obtained when the tiler starts to put tiles from the center, but doesn’t pay attention to how much space he has left. To avoid this, you must, again, count and pre-draw the layout on paper or in a computer program. It is important to lay the tiles so that the undercuts on the edges are at least half the width of the tile (and preferably more).

Fact: Laying rectangular tiles along the long side is always easier. there’s a higher probability that the undercuts will be large. You can also use a checkerboard pattern, a very effective technique for simple geometric tiles like the “boar pattern” (pictured).

With vertical laying everything is a little easier: you can not bring the tiles to the ceiling, you can use moisture-resistant paint. water is unlikely to get so high. And here is an example of how to work with tiles (in the photo): the designer decorated the bathroom with two materials. One tile imitates marble, the other. wood. The inserts made of porcelain stoneware like wood to “catch up” the height and not cut the “marble” tile.

Mistake: Do not consider the thickness of the grout I always advise to correlate the size of the wall and the width of the tiles in advance. And don’t forget to include grout! Even rectified tiles have tiny seams, so what about regular tile? If the laying area is large, the count will go by centimeters.

The ideal joint thickness for normal rectangular tiles is 2.5 to 3 mm. Thinner is not necessary. when heated, the tiles expand a little, and the grout compensates for this movement. If the joints are too thin for your tiles, they may crack. You don’t want to make it too wide, either: the grout will eventually start to crumble. If you want to make a seam imperceptible, just pick up the grout in tone.

Fact: Some types of porcelain stoneware have a chamfer on the edges. manufacturers apply it for the convenience of transportation. It is believed that thanks to the chamfer, chipping does not appear. But visually, such a chamfer can increase the width of the joint. Take it into account if the distance between tiles is crucial to your project.

Mistake : Placing tiles “by eye” To keep tiles flat and spaced evenly apart, craftsmen use a spirit level and good old plastic spacers. They can look a little different. for example, they may have additional loops, for which it is easier to pull them out of the seams. but the essence remains the same: crosses and wedges are designed to ensure that you have even seams. There are some impressive videos on the Internet, where tilers are laying the material without crosses, with a laser level, but I would not advise experimenting. I haven’t seen successful results of such work.

Tip: If you use different tile thicknesses, explain to the builders that relief is normal. Every designer has a story about how the tiler tried to “sink” a thick tile to make it flush with a thinner one.

Mistake : Incorrect glue application The tile mortar is not something to save on: it’s about the cost and the quantity. Sometimes, for the sake of economy, glue is applied only in the corners of the tile. this is unacceptable: no matter how hard you press the tile, the adhesion area will be too small. These tiles will break sooner or later, either from an accidental blow, or from the stress created by the adhesive itself after drying.

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