How to cut the lock into the door with the router

Mortising locks into interior doors with a router

We will tell you how to mortise the lock into the interior door with their own hands.

First of all, you will need to measure the width of the vertical bar of the new interior door and buy a mortise lock.

You should know that the thickness of the vertical bar of your door must be at least 40 mm, otherwise there is no point in mortising the lock.

There are different locks for the inner doors.

There are locks that go separately from the handles, and there are locks with handles.

Separate locks are installed in the following order: first, the lock is inserted, and then the handles are installed on the inside and outside of the door.

There are on sale simple closing mechanisms: knob-latch.

In spite of the simple design of door handles, their installation is a difficult, problematic business, because it requires special tools and experience.

Once you have purchased the lock you can begin installing it.

It is not difficult to cut the lock into the inner door by oneself. The main thing is to be careful and not to hurry up. So, let’s start the process of inserting the lock.

Usually the door handle is placed in the middle of the door, so measure one meter from the floor and mark a place for the door handle.

Then we take a drill, choose a feather drill bit and drill a hole in the face of the door for the lock.

The diameter of the drill bit should be the same as the thickness of the lock and the depth of the drilled hole should be the length of the locking mechanism.

Then we mark parameters of the bearing plate of the lock on the door face and with a chisel we choose an even surface using this contour.

Use a feather drill to drill a hole where the door handle will be. Exercise care and caution when drilling.

As soon as the tip of the center of the drill bit appears on the other side of the internal door, stop drilling.

You can also watch this video.

Using the obtained hole as a center, make further drilling from the opposite side of the door.

Some craftsmen drill right through the door, but such drilling can damage the door leaf.

Now, we put the lock on the prepared place and mark out the holes for screws. According to the markings we drill holes and screw the self-tapping screws that fix the lock.

As you see, installing locks in the interior doors is not such a difficult thing, all you have to do is to insert the handle and install the cover for the door reed.

How to insert lock into a PVC door. Types of locks

Among applicable locking devices, which are possible to install to the balcony PVC door, the most widespread are locks with cylinder mechanism.

They are widespread, and are installed in both entrance metal or wooden doors, as well as in interior doors, which do not require a lock of special complexity or high secrecy. Most of the locks adapted for balcony doors belong to this category.

The operating principle of the cylindrical mechanism consists in the fact that inside the cylinder there are three spring cylinders, which take a certain position after the key is inserted and do not prevent the key rotation inside the cylinder.

This system may have high degrees of secrecy, preventing its opening with the help of key matching or various picks, but the main advantages are its small size and interchangeability of the cylinder, which may be changed without breaking the door whole structure.

The second type of locks is the tumbler lock. Their operating principle is fundamentally different from the cylindrical mechanism.

The locking element. the pawl is actuated mechanically by turning the key inserted into the keyhole. The key lifts spring loaded flaps on one or both sides and thus releases the lock pawl for its free extension or on the contrary. closing.

This type of locks is characterized by larger dimensions and is installed inside the body of the door and cannot be opened in case of breakage of the mechanism or loss of the key without damaging the door structure.

Considering the fragile structure of PVC metal doors, the installation of such locks in balcony doors is quite rare and is usually not provided for by the door manufacturer or design.

See also  Wood router work. Guide rail

According to the level of locking, the locks can be singlestamped, when the locking is realized at one point, usually at the point of pulling out of the standard latch.

Usually this is enough for doors which do not play any significant barrier function, and multi-locks, where the latch is made at several points (usually three) by pulling out the latchbolt near the door handle and at the upper and lower points of the door.

The use of the multi-point locking mechanism of the safe type, with the bolts locking the door in four directions, is hardly ever used for balcony doors, since the unreliability of the door itself makes the use of such locks senseless.

If you decide to install interior doors with your own hands, it is worth noting that it is easiest when the mortise of door locks and hinges is not done with your own hands, but at the factory of the manufacturer. As a rule, the manufacturer carefully chooses such fittings, and they are reliable and have excellent performance characteristics. Read more about choosing door locks here. Buying doors with installed hardware you can face with some difficulties of choice. The most common. the color or design doesn’t fit. For example, you want the lock in gold color, but the producer says chrome. Or you need Italian AGB magnetic locks, with silent closing like lli, with a plastic tongue, and offer steel. Regarding the hinges, you can do with a little blood. buy the door hinges without mortise. Universal hinge without mortise does not look so aesthetic but still.

There is always a way out. just buy what you need, cut the locks / hinges by hand and install. Do not save on fittings, as a failed mechanism can significantly hamper the further use of interior doors. The exact same lock or door hinges may no longer be produced, and the analogue, as a rule, “will not sit” in the already formed groove. We recommend to cut and install silent or magnetic locks AGB, lli (Italy). For more than 10 years, the installation dimensions of these products are the same and you can easily replace them as needed, although they just do not break.

So locks, universal or concealed hinges are chosen, bought and brought, you need to embed with your own hands. For example, for unknown fittings we draw the scheme of forthcoming mortise in AvtoCAD real dimension for automated installation, but it is possible to make a marking and according to manufacturer’s instructions, especially if the mortise of the lock and hinges will be done by your own hands. Marking is a responsible stage, it is necessary to pay much attention to it. “Measure twice and cut once”. it works! Otherwise the product is damaged, the supplier will not exchange it, and it is a significant loss of money. Marking depends on the type of lock and its peculiarities. It is important to dance from a hole for the handle. If we don’t take it into consideration the door handles can be on the different distances from the bottom of the door leaf, and if the doors are installed in close proximity to each other will come out. whoops or oops! In calculations and marking, use a square, a tape measure, a pencil, an awl or a construction knife.

lock, door, router

By means of a drill and chisels. the old-fashioned method

The most common, what is called the “household” variant.

The marking and mortise of the interior lock

We take a tape measure and measure from the bottom of the leaf, the end where the lock will be embedded 95 cm (this is our standard, you can and 100 cm), we enclose the square, hold a cross line and carry the markings on the plane of the leaf, to mark for a door handle. The marking is carried out by a sharply sharpened pencil or an awl.

mortising latches with trim router

We take the lock and measure the distance from the faceplate to the middle of the square hole of the handle with square angle and mark it on the plane of the leaf on both sides. We put the lock to the face of the leaf so that the line under the handle, drawn in advance, will be in the center of the hole square and mark the upper and lower edge of the lock. This is the size we will drill out. Then we mark center of the leaf with square and draw axial line of mortise.

See also  What is the best demolition hammer to choose

After the marking under the lock and the drawn axial line, on the end part of the leaf are made drilled with a pen (usually 14-16 mm, depending on the thickness of the lock), as often as possible from each other. In order not to drill out too much, a notch is made on the feather drill for the depth of the lock with iso or painter’s tape.

The trick is not to jam the neighboring hole with the feather, because rotating with high speed drill can suddenly jam and spoil the door. Then the groove is formed with several flat chisels, first removing the surplus wood along the leaf, and then clean up the side planes, so as not to split the leaf. Then we drill the holes for the handle and, if necessary, for the cylinder or the screw. It is important to drill through the holes from both sides of the leaf! The lock is inserted into the groove formed and aligned against the drill hole for the handle, the applied, decorative strip is outlined with a pointed pencil and the final planing is made with a chisel.

That’s it, the mortise lock is made by our hands!

lock, door, router

Inserting the counterpiece of the lock

The counterpart or “mating piece” is mortised after the door frame has been installed. The marking is very simple. We close the door and through the rebate we mark out the lower and upper edge of the latch. Draw transverse lines on the box. Then measure the distance to the edge of the tongue on the door with a square and transfer it to the frame. This will be the limiter for the upcoming drilling and installing the latch.

We punch out two holes and choose the middle part with a chisel. Let’s put on the lock faceplate, drill holes for screws and fasten it. Let’s try it. everything works. The mating part should be deepened only if its thickness exceeds 1 mm. This is done with a chisel by previously making a tracing of the screwed-in counterpart.

Marking and mortise door hinges

lock, door, router

The trick is to start the marking and plunge cuts of the hinges from the door leaf. And so we have 2000 mm door and 200 mm hinge, we measure 20 and 160 cm from the leaf top along the edge, draw transverse lines, put the hinge parallel to the leaf edge below the line and make edge marks with a sharpened pencil.

It is better to mark the hinge that will be installed into the groove, because the factory stamping may be different. We take and with our own hands, and with a chisel, and as shown in the video, mortise the upper and lower hinges in the door.

One more trick. the depth of incision. Sometimes the gap between the parallel folded parts of the hinge is less than 2 mm, and the requirements for the hinge clearance of the door unit, just 2 mm. In this case, you need to deepen the hinge a little less. There is a gap of more than 2 mm, then the hinge is still plunged flush with the plane of the face! With the hinge gap assembled block, so you have to put up with, but take this point into account when calculating, marking and filing the top elements of the box, because it is standardly released 6 mm, 4 mm from the gate and 2 mm with a hinge respectively.

The next step, mortise the hinges into the box element of the unit. So the hinges are inserted and set into the leaf, put the frame and mark the edges of the hinges. Place the hinge against the marks parallel to the door frame and trace with a pencil.

There is one correct nuance. It is necessary to take into consideration the fact that the thickness of the door leaf and the width of the box quarter from the gasket to the edge can be different, and we need a good fore-end closure, which is a dense (but not too dense) door leaf!) Sealing against the leaf when the door is closed when the door is installed! For this purpose before inserting hinges we measure these values.

Let’s say the leaf 40 mm and a quarter of 42 mm, what to do? It is very simple, it is necessary to cut the hinge into the frame 2 mm deeper to the seal than to the leaf. But this is wrong from the very beginning because in this case the deep-set hinge will expose a part of mortise and when opening/closing the door it will start to rub against the frame or architrave, making unpleasant creaking sound. That is why it is better not to sunk the hinges in the frame, but to put them on the leaf and on the same 2 mm.

  • there is a great risk of damaging the surface of the door leaf as a result of slippage of a feather drill or chisel, especially if the tool is not sharpened to razor sharpness before starting the work! Sharpen cutting tool, use new drill bits,
  • there is a great risk of simply, unskillful actions to split the leaf or, say, over stabbing, which then significantly affects the strength and durability of door units and structures,
  • you may not like the aesthetics of mortise, especially if you have no experience in “woodcarving”,
  • the process will be long, but “long” is not something that should scare a novice master, eager to mortise locks and hinges with his own hands,
  • the list goes on, but mortise lock mortise into the inner door with your own hands is already done, and this is the main thing!
  • In skillful, diligent and diligent hands, directly all the disadvantages may not be, do not be frightened,
  • cheapness of the tool used, especially if practicing “household”. Don’t buy outright cheap chisels and feather drill bits!
See also  How to cut the laminate flooring. Dismantle the lock system floors

Mortise hinges and locks in the door with a hand router.

The technology depends on the type of equipment used. There is a technology of template milling, when all manipulations are performed by a previously prepared template or with the help of a “ruler”, using cutters of different diameters and lengths. There is, of course, and professional equipment, where everything is thought out and adapted to work. In any case. the basic principle is rotating at a speed close to 25 thousandths of a second. about./min. Mill with the help of which the right mortise of the hinges and locks into the inner door with your own hands is made. For example, in our work we use more than three types of milling machines by Makita and Virutex, various templates and a Spanish template-holder, screw and spiral cutters of different diameters from “CMT” Germany.

Marking for plunge milling cutters does not differ from household, and milling itself has a number of chips, which will be discussed below.

As for the door lock, its manual mortise with a router is made with the help of a standard line, included into the set of equipment, with different diameter of milling cutters. In general. nothing difficult, the most important thing is that the stroke of the collet with a mill provided the necessary depth of penetration, the height of the lock respectively. In the video, mortise the lock with his hands using a router is performed with an offset to the left edge. This is another subtlety of installing AGB silent locks and not only. The answer part of the lock with a tongue has a rounding and should be installed on the edge of the box, so that the answer part has become beautiful, you should take it into account when mortising, shifting the lock along the leaf if necessary.

Drilling-in a hinge with a cutter has some peculiarities. On the door leaf, all similar to the lock, the ruler to choose the plane, depth and parallel edge, then form the end edge of the chisel at 30-40 mm.

The trick. in order to get a beautiful and accurate edge, the chisel when you hit it with a hammer should be kept perpendicular to the plane, shear and clean the wood in several stages, a little bit, it is important.

It is more difficult to mortise the hinges with your own hands into the door frame, because unlike the leaf, which has one plane of pressing, the box consists of two planes. In fact, you have to mill the lower plane and press the platform of the equipment to the top. The task is not an easy one, that’s why our routers have special modifications of the platform. There are, of course, all sorts of gadgets, carriages, templates, and even a special loop milling machine manufactured by Virutex. We didn’t use carriages, you get tired of making templates for every buttonhole, but the looping Virutex is a thing, but it is expensive, and we don’t need it. How do you cut the hinges into the box with a simple cutter, but with their own hands. I do not know, I’ve reached a dead end, I’ll add the article.

Related Posts

| Denial of responsibility | Contacts |RSS