How to make a paper cutter for sandpaper. Tips for choosing a paper cutter How to make a roller paper cutter
(aka disc cutter or trimmer) is a rectangular base (work table) along which the cutting mechanism moves along a guide. It, in turn, consists of a sharpened metal disk enclosed in a protective cover. When the paper is cut, it is between the blade of the roller cutter and the counterblade (a hard-metal plate attached to the end of the platform on the side where the cutter moves). This cutter is ideal for work with small amount of paper. up to 10 sheets, comes in different sizes, the most common. 22.5 x 12.5 cm, 31 x 31 cm, 20 x 46 cm. It takes up little space and has the valuable quality. the ability to cut an edge of width less than a millimeter, which allows you to work with maximum accuracy. The knives of the roller cutter are not resharpened, although they are called self-sharpening. They simply have to be changed after a certain period of time.
called because of the blade, which resembles a saber. the sabre cutter is the most powerful and is used for larger quantities of paper, but they are accurate to within 0.1mm. With saber torches, the principle of operation is somewhat different. The sharp knife of the cutter is fixed at one end (it is covered with a protective cover to avoid injury), and it has a handle on the other. Lowering it cuts through paper. The knife in the sabre cutter can be sharpened, although this procedure is not as simple as it first appears. In addition, the saber cutter is much more difficult to use than the roller cutter. It will take some effort to get a perfect cut.
is used for larger quantities and is ideal for large print shops. It can be handheld, semiautomatic or automatic. Its operating mechanism (a sharpened heavy cutter blade) is located on a solid table and is driven by a lever or electric drive. The blade moves not only from top to bottom but also obliquely along the cutting line and is able to cut large stacks of paper up to 8 cm long. It is accurate to within fractions of a millimeter. When the cutter knife becomes blunt, it is removed and sharpened, and after several sharpenings it is replaced.
Used for paper cutting, pencil sharpening, and needed for cutting out small details and complicated shapes. A thin interchangeable blade resembling a feather with a protective cap. When working with this knife it is necessary to have a layout mat (cardboard, fiberboard or plywood) so as not to damage the table where you work.
enables fast and effortless cutting of paper, as well as a variety of shaped cuts with special tools.
used to cut circles with a diameter of 10 mm to 150 mm. It is ideal for making cards and circular details for scrapbook pages. The knife is a shaft with a needle and a movable foot on which the blade is mounted, by turning which the circle is cut out. Also on the movable foot there is a scale designed for diameter of the circle to be cut out. It is necessary to work with a circular knife on a mats. Before cutting, be sure all screws on the compass are tightened.
Easily cuts out any shape with a special stencil, it is indispensable for the creation of decorative elements for pages and postcards. Some shape cutter models can be used without a stencil. When working with such a cutter it is necessary to have a mat so as not to damage the table at which you work and be sure to check the serviceability of the blade, if necessary, adjust it according to the density of the selected material.
I hope the review will be useful. We wish you all a good mood!
! I offer you a guide on how to create with your own hands a useful thing, which will help you clearly and evenly cut sheets of sandpaper.
The owners of grinders face the problem of cutting sheets for them: scissors get blunt, an ordinary knife does not give an even cut, etc.д. Of course you can buy ready-made sets of sheets of sandpaper for the grinder, but it is more expensive than cutting them out of large sheets of sandpaper by yourself. So let’s start solving this problem!
Materials and tools
Plywood (or particleboard, particleboard) 2 cm thick with a hacksaw blade 25 cm long screws with a big head (press nuts) laser cutter (optional) saw sander drill screwdriver
We measure the size of sheets for the grinder and the size of a large sheet of sandpaper
If you have a laser cutter, transfer the layout to your computer and create a data file for this cutter. You may find my files useful, too.
Set the plywood sheet into the laser cutter and pierce the approximate lines. And in the absence of such a brainiac
, Simply use a pencil or pen to trace the plywood sheet to the specified dimensions.
Any way you can saw a homemade handicraft
Attaching the sheet
Using two screws we fix the blade to the piece
, while leaving space for the sandpaper to pass underneath.
Ready, start testing and then use it to its fullest extent.
Simply establish under a sheet of sandpaper in the required sizes and with a small effort pull it up, thus it turns out even and exact cut with the ideal dimensions of the sheet.
In which we talk about how to make a homemade cutter. a device for cutting paper, which can greatly help fans of stump. Such cutters are sold in office supply stores, but you can make one yourself if you wish.
Fold, lick and tear
As mentioned above, this is the only method that works in the air. The disadvantage of this is that you don’t get very smooth edges and you may lose some paper in the fold area. For a proper explanation, you can find a video explaining how to roll the cigarette/joint backwards. There’s no protruding part used, and the paper is pretty thin, but the tear is very similar.
- Fold (at least) once in the right place and flatten the fold.
- Lightly lick the fold (or moisten it with water). Be careful not to lick too hard / press your tongue against the hard. In fact, only the fold needs to be wet, not the area next to it.
- Before it dries, unfold it and gently tear the two parts apart. Hold one side with one hand while pulling the other side with your other hand (I prefer to pull it toward me or away from me rather than toward the paper). Section for section. You can try this on the entire document, but keep in mind that (depending on the thickness of the paper) the paper is weak and will begin to deflect easily.
- Optional (while the edge is still wet) : Burn the grain that sticks out from the edge on both parts. Be careful not to burn the paper. You don’t need to hold the edge directly into the flame, a distance of 1 cm or less is enough. I recommend a lighter on a low flame, matches or a candle.
Here’s how I would do it. You drop one way, then the other. Repeatedly. I have not encountered paper that will not tear in a straight line after I have done this enough times. ( “enough.”. Is when the paper is too weak along the folded line to even think about turning into the “no tear” area ). Put your hands up on the page as you tear the paper, not as one big tear.
You still can’t rip a whole piece of paper without rearranging your hands when ripping. Lay it flat on the table, one hand on each side, and spread them apart (at an angle so that it rips from top to bottom). Usually requires an initial tear at the top along the fold, but I always have
@Izkata Well, you have a higher risk of the paper starting to deflect. Maybe I just used this on larger sheets. But you’re right, you can easily divide the sections by 20 cm
To add the multiple fold method, after each fold, I squeeze the fold by running the edge between my index finger and the thumbnail with a decent amount of pressure. I find it significantly reduces the number of folds required and also makes for a nicer edge.
@agweber really, I was going to call it, thanks for reminding me. Although I still fold it three or four times (we’re talking about regular DIN A4 paper here). But you’re right! I think this is the only proper way to fold.
when you use the fold and tear method, just put something straight and flat along the fold, like a book or a ruler, and then press down on the object to secure the paper, and then tear by pulling the paper over the object. Having an object will keep the tears at bay
Absolutely: I have no idea why this isn’t the best answer, since it works with all types of paper (as opposed to the most popular answers)
The only way to cut paper with clean straight edges. Use a cutting ruler and a sharp cutting knife.
This will outperform all scissors exactly. All torn and cut solutions will inevitably result in more or less visible paper fibers on the cutting edge, and in addition, the folding process will cause the rims to always lift slightly.
But, alas, if you don’t have scissors handy, you probably won’t have a cutting ruler or a cutting knife.
That’s when our imagination will give us all the hacks we need:
Portable paper cutter spare blades
Introducing the Straight Cutter and its additional blades. Overall impressions are positive. Under the catot, the tests for measuring t.д. (a lot of photos) came in a double cellophane bag, I am surprised it did not break. The cutter was in a stiff package inside, the extra blades were loose. Additional blades were purchased from the same seller. there is an inadequate price for shipping, wrote the seller that they say all the same device you send he zeroed the shipping on the blades. Next to the replacement blades, the device came in orange, and the replacement blades are blue. The manual on the back, in Chinese with the English doublet Often it happens that you need to get a straight cut of the paper, scissors is not very good. And a box cutter is a dangerous thing, especially for a 3rd grader. So, on occasion, I ordered this device. Picked up a few packages at once, one of them was a few business cards seller, the most useful thing from them. the test of this device. The cardboard cuts well, no problems, the only scrap stuck under the pressure frame, luckily it lifts, and all extracted. Let’s try a different subject: crumpled thin paper manual the device coped perfectly, the cut is even, there are no bites anywhere. The slat is lifted easily and provides fast removal of used material: To change the blade it is enough to push it to the extreme position and pull: The spare blade is included with effort, but it did not want to be taken out at all (precision of detail manufacturing is obviously not microns), though the removal succeeded on the horizontal axis is marked, it is not very well visible, unlike the marking on the pressure plate (which, in my opinion, is much less important). sheet a4 get to cut only across to measure the thickness potential, use a caliper, pushing up the blade will measure the width of the cutter with the blade, then without the blade we get 1.15 mm. Let’s try the number of sheets of typical office paper (sheet thickness 0.The only problem is that the lug is stuck in the pressure frame, luckily it lifts up and pulls it out), 10 sheets are fine: the last one is not very straight. The spare blade is a little bit larger than native width of the device from below an additional ruler is put forward, I am not sure of its necessity weight of the device As a whole positive impressions with the task copes (cuts smoothly, rather compact), the spare blades will help in case of wear-out of native. I would give it a 4 for the device itself.
Its use is in all cases more convenient and efficient. Especially since there are a huge number of different types and kinds of such cutters in stores: roller, saber, guillotine, etc.д., designed for cutting paper of A4 to A1 size, and are also great for the price and quality.
And, as a rule, people who are seriously fond of or professionally dealing with paper and cardboard try to buy exactly such devices. However, there is a big minus here as well. the price of the tool. If small cutters, designed for small size and paper density, can afford many hand makers, then more serious tools for cutting large sizes of paper, such as 70×100 cm, are not available to everyone. over, it is possible to pay for such a purchase only by cutting paper, as they say, on a “production” scale.
The capabilities of a homemade guillotine
Self-made guillotine can operate like a factory machine. This is proven by the designs of homemade craftsmen, which are able to cut metal no worse than industrial machines. Two types of guillotines are most common. with direct movement of the upper knife and with angular rotation. The first type of machines more accurately corresponds to the name. guillotine, and allows you to cut metal very precisely. But the features of the second type allow to cut not only the sheet, but also rebar and angle of quite large size.
Restrictions on the size set to the installation for cutting metal with their own hands for purely natural reasons. In contrast to the industrial ones with hydraulic, electric or pneumatic drive, self-made ones are equipped only with mechanical lever or pedal, and the thickness of the cut metal depends on the physical strength of the operator.
Electromechanical drive can be mounted and in the conditions of a makeshift workshop, but the hydraulics and pneumatics are very difficult to install. This is available only to craftsmen of the highest qualification.
Guillotine with their own hands can cut:
Designing a homemade machine should take into account the peculiarities of already working designs. A description of one version of the guillotine is shown below.
Cutter for paper with their own hands
For self-made, you need to have the materials and tools:
- Assemble a frame of A4 format from 4 bars. The edge of one must protrude a little, on which the knife will be attached. Grind all surfaces and cover with olive oil.
- Cut out plywood of A4 size and screw it to the frame with self-tapping screws.
- On the side perpendicular to the ledge mount a metal corner.
- Blades for the paper cutter is made from the blade of a hacksaw, from which the teeth are cut off.
- From the board cut the blade holder, it is a blade the same size as the knife, but with a handle for the operator.
- Connect the knife and the holder.
- In the protruding part of the holder I drill a hole for mounting.
- The stopper is made from a profile, the ruler is made from ordinary wood. They are fixed on the work surface.
- Draw the marking in two coordinates.
- The working surface of the paper cutter is varnished.
- Grind the cutting surface of the knife.
- Varnish the pen and screw it to the base.
Corner hole punch cutter (a device for rounding corners on paper) A story about how I at home, for myself make business cards
Hello all. Today I want to tell you about my next purchase. This is an angle hole punch, aka angle cutter. I needed it for rounding corners on printed business cards. In short, the device copes with his work, but more and do not need. In general I needed to make business cards. I have a color printer and bought paper. Printing is not a problem, but the scissors can only make rectangular business cards. precisely you can make them any shape, but it is not very convenient to cut rounded edges by hand. It turns out not very accurately. So I decided to see what the Chinese brothers can offer to solve my contrived problem. And I found a bunch of different cutters for different types of angles on ali. I found the cheapest one and ordered. A month later I got an envelope with a small box inside: And inside the cutter itself: It’s extremely simple. A notch plate is inserted into the plastic body. We press the upper part, it presses the plate, it bends and on the principle of scissors cuts the corner of the paper. For the cut corners at the bottom there is a niche, covered with a lid The lid is held on 4 pins and can be easily removed if necessary: Well and directly testing. First, normal paper, Svetocopy I bring a corner, press, get a slightly uneven cut. Thin paper is not cut well with the plate: But thicker paper is much better. I ran out of 200-230 g/cm2 business card paper. But there is a similar cardboard: I put a corner in the cutter: Result: Two corners are cut, two corners are just straight: The difference is noticeable. The rounded corners look much nicer. And paper with cut corners on 4 sides: The corners are neatly rounded and completely the same. With scissors to achieve such a result for me personally unrealistic. Well, all the corners of the cut corners remain inside the cutter under the cover, and then simply shaken out in the trash: I also tried this cutter for laminating film. It cuts corners reluctantly, because I don’t want to work with thin materials, it crumples the film more than it cuts. BUT! If I do not press the cutter, but rather use a sharp blow, it gives a good cut. True, how long will the cutter itself, if it beats his fist? Conclusion: I am completely satisfied with my purchase. It is perfectly suited to the task at hand. Small, makes a neat rounding, does not scatter trimmings. I only wish the price was lower. But you don’t have to choose. Offline I could not find such a cutter anywhere. Where else can be useful such a cutter? Well, except for business cards, you can do all sorts of booklets, brochures, etc.д. Of course this is a tool exclusively for home use, for large volumes, I think he just do not fit, and in any printing house there are different tools for cutting business cards. But for me it’s enough. At the printer a couple of sheets with business cards I print, cut out with scissors, cut through each corner of the cutter and get a pretty neat result. I think the main buyers of such a cutter are all kinds of fans of scrapbooking, bookcrossing, cardmaking, etc.д. But for my work cutter is perfect. I will not recommend or discourage from buying it. Since the thing is specific, and not everyone needs it. But here I will try to deduce so to speak the economic benefits of buying for myself personally. We in printing costs about 10-15tg (about 0) per business card.04) I have my own printer. I will not count it. The cost of one A4 sheet of business card paper is about 16tg (the same 0.04) On one sheet of paper fits 10 business cards. It turns out that printing on their own, a rough estimate I have a business card comes out 10 times cheaper. Well, let me even have 100 business cards. (Although I do not even need such a volume) Divide the cost of the cutter for 1000pcs business cards get that they are with this accounting is not one.6 tenge and 3 tenge. Plus the cost of ink and electricity for 1tg. Total 5 tenge per business card. Which is three times cheaper than in the printing press. Although honestly, my calculation is wrong as a whole. This comes out some kind of savings on matches. There’s also depreciation and the printer itself and the working time should be counted. But in general, the process of rounding itself is monotonically fascinating. Sitting, clicking the corners, watching as the electronic image on the screen appear in the hands of finished products. And you do it for yourself. It’s fun. So it is not necessary to count it all. Of course, if I needed 1000 business cards, I would order them from a printing company. But I don’t need that many. And to make for myself 10-20 cards, it takes about 20 minutes leisurely. And I like this process. And this is the most important thing. That’s my whole review. I wish you all a good mood and good health. Well, happy upcoming holiday to all.
How to cut cardboard at home. Master class on processing the edge of the product
Very often I get letters with questions about how to cut beer cardboard. Cardboard is sold in large sheets of size 70100 cm. The first time I also agonized, cutting out each piece separately, until I was struck by an idea, how this process can be streamlined.
The point is that we first cut a sheet of cardboard strips of width we need. Let’s say 20 cm.
The first thing we do is mark out the cardboard. we measure off 20 centimeters on each side.
Then we take a piece of plywood a little longer than 70 cm. 75 cm is fine.
But we don’t screw it down firmly. So that we can stuff the beer-cardboard sheet under the threshold!
That’s how we got a device to cut with! One edge of the threshold is fixed and you only need to hold the upper edge of the threshold with your hand. You can cut it with a simple box cutter or a construction knife.
I lean on the cardboard itself with my knee, which prevents it from shifting. I think I don’t need to tell you that when we shove the cardboard under the threshold, we line it up with the marks we’ve made.
After the cardboard is cut into strips, it is not difficult to cut it into smaller pieces on an ordinary modeling mat with a ruler or a small cutter.
WARNING! In all this there is one minus. after a couple of sheets in a piece of cardboard groove is formed and begin to fly sawdust t.к. The plywood can be cut with a knife. Two ways out: one is to twist the screw a couple of centimeters to the right or left. And so until plywood runs out and then you can turn it upside down Way out number two: put a breadboard mat on plywood. The only disadvantage of this method is that you need a big rug. I’ll be honest, until I opened my studio, I used to cut cardboard for all my MCs just on plywood.
So, the advanced method for advanced users.
If you have to cut large amounts of cardboard, and only one size, there is another option: Take a large sheet of plywood, put a large rug on it, and make the limiters of the metal angle.
The long corner prevents the cardboard from slipping past a certain length, and the corner on top fixes the width of the piece of cardboard to be cut. The point of all this activity is that you do not need to pre-mark the cardboard. you just shove the cardboard under the threshold and align it on the corners. Lean the threshold against the corner width limiter and cut it off. You get a ready strip of the right size, then you squeeze the cardboard in and cut it off again. Corners are good to use because one side they have holes for screws. they can be screwed to the plywood at any distance. Well, and the mat protects the plywood from cutting.
In a good way, of course, the corner-width stopper can be cut into different sizes and several pieces and screw them as needed. But the thing is that then you have to twist the threshold for the new width. And the ideal is to align the width of the top corner and the distance threshold so they were the same. is quite difficult. I corrected the errors by pasting a little bulk tape to the corner. it’s easier to fix than to twist the screw to the right or left 1 mm.
In scrapbooking, you can’t do without cardboard. There are not many kinds of scrap cardboard, but there are nuances worth knowing about! Cardboard in scrapbooking is mainly used for making scrapbook covers and notebooks, scrapbook pages, boxes, and chipboards.
Binding cardboard. gray-brown cardboard with a density from 950g/m2 to 2000g/m2, with different thicknesses. 1.25 mm to 3 mm. The thicker the cardboard, the stronger it is, the harder it is to cut it to size. Bound paperboard is very often called “with the chipboard” cardboard. It is designed for manufacture of covers and books, folders, albums, diaries, etc. For scrapbooking is suitable binderboard of medium density and strength, with a thickness of no more than 1.5-2 mm. The cardboard is not very hard to cut, but it is strong enough and can be machine stitched. Cardboard that is thicker is much harder to cut, and if it is slightly bent, it is difficult to straighten it. If you need to make holes, it is quite difficult to enter the hole puncher. Although it is just as amenable to a sewing machine, at least one such as Singer. Binding board is indispensable for covers. In albums where weight and bulkiness are important, such as a large generic book in a leather binding, only binding board for both cover and pages will do. With 1.5 mm thick cardboard, a 30×30 album of 10 spreads weighs 2.4 kg. It is a tangible weight! And an album of the same size and number of spreads from beer cardboard weighs only 1.6kg.
Chromo ersatz cardboard. Fine boxboard made of bleached and unbleached cellulose, wood pulp and waste paper, with coated and uncoated surface. Has a density of 220 g/m2 to 520 g/m2 and a thickness of 0.3 to 0.7 mm. Chromo-ersatz cardboard is widespread, and is used for packaging, usually for small, lightweight items. In scrapbooking, it is used for making boxes. “Mom’s treasures”, gift boxes, etc. д. For covers and album pages this type of cardboard is not suitable due to its small thickness. maximum 0,7 mm. The chipboards made of this type of cardboard turn out grayish due to insufficient whiteness of the source material. The edges of such chipboards can get burnt and darkened by laser cutting. You can use Chromium Ersatz cardboard to make cards blanks for subsequent pasting with scrap paper.