How to clean a tool from rust. Special remedies for removal

The most effective ways to clean a tool from rust

Sometimes one look at a rusty tool is enough to make a decision to get rid of it. However, we should not be in a hurry, as there are many ways to combat corrosion at home.

Folk or store remedies, or mechanical cleaning devices come to the rescue.

On how to properly apply them in practice, successfully clean a tool from rust in home conditions and restore its original appearance, read the article.

You’ll need:

In my case, we will restore pliers and pliers with thin jaws. As you can see, the cutters have been sitting for more than a year and seemingly hopelessly ruined. Putting tools in vessels.

How to restore a rusted tool cheaply

Let it sit for about 24 hours. And in the meantime a chemical reaction will take place.After a while you will see how flakes of rust will float on the surface of the solution.

Try using a tool. The first 2-3 movements may be difficult, but afterwards it should be easy.

If you are not satisfied with the result, repeat the procedure and let it soak for 24 hours more.As you can see, the pliers and cutters are fully operational.

Now you have to grease them. We take any engine oil, dip a rag in it and work on the open metal surface.

Also for the lubrication is well known to all WD-40. Spray it on the surface and wipe it with a rag to remove the excess.

The method is very simple but very effective. Personally, I use this not the first time and the result is satisfied.Original article in English

Soda

I think many of you still remember the horror story that carbonated beverage supposedly can corrode the esophagus. As “proof” of this claim, the fact was cited that baking soda can remove rust from a spoon, coin, or other metal object if left in the drink for several hours.

The interesting thing about this story is that it is half true after all. Although baking soda is unlikely to corrode the esophagus, it can indeed be used to remove rust from an instrument. Similar to removing corrosion from cutlery and other small items, an instrument should be soaked in beverage for several hours or even overnight.

This method is good for removing small damaged areas, but not suitable for deep rust. In addition, its use is difficult when restoring a large tool, because in that case you need a fairly large container and a lot of baking soda.

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Sulfuric Acid Treatment

How to clean a horseshoe from heavy rust? Sulfuric acid is ideal for this purpose. As it has a very high concentration, it is advisable to dilute it with water before using. If you neglect this recommendation, you will end up with a completely corroded horseshoe. Quickly submerge the object in acid for about half an hour. After wiping it dry. Sulfuric acid is considered a very dangerous substance, and therefore work in additional protective equipment, namely a respirator and gloves.

Since corrosion products have low adhesion, they can easily be removed from the surface of the product by mechanical action. This is an effective way to remove rust from large, even metal surfaces. Also suitable for cleaning heavily rusted items as a first step in complete removal.

The mechanical method includes the removal of rust using special brushes, sanding discs and sandpaper.

You can use a grinder to clean larger pieces, starting with the coarse grit and finishing with the finest grit. Metal brushes and abrasive bits for an angle grinder or drill will also work. Smaller items may be easier to remove with sandpaper.

Workpieces with complex geometry do not respond well to mechanical action, so other methods are more effective.

Note! Areas of metal treated in this way remain unprotected from the environment and will therefore rust even faster without special treatment.

Lemon juice and salt

Citric acid. This is a common choice for removing rust. Along with lemon juice, you will need salt for this method.

Apply salt to rusty areas of the tool, making sure it covers all rusty areas. Then take a lemon and squeeze the juice onto the tool, coating the spots with salt. Leave the tool for a few hours so that the sap and salt can mingle with the rust. Once the rust has softened, wipe off the mixture to remove the rust from the tool.

The second way

There is a way to do it for a longer period of time (1.5). 2 months, but cleans deeper rust! You can get rid of it with distilled water and citric acid! It’s very easy to do. You take a plastic bucket, collect in it rusty oxidized screwdrivers, keys, locks, pour distilled water and put it all in the garage, basement so it does not get in the way!

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We take a plastic container, in it we begin to prepare a solution: put on gloves, take 1 teaspoon of citric acid in about 300 grams of water. We immerse the tool for about 24 hours and do not forget to wash the tool under running water during those days. You can scrub with toothbrush and once all rust is gone you need to treat it with soda (get rid of acids)! Dilute a solution of soda, and then dip the parts!

Clean the file

Let’s start. If there are no stuck chips in the file notch, we just clean the file from visible dirt and at the same time degrease it with the above mentioned dishwashing detergents. It’s better, of course, in quite hot water.

Then put the files, well washed and rinsed in running water, aside for now. And let’s prepare the “cleaner and sharpener”. For this purpose, we dilute in a glass of hot water, two full teaspoonfuls of Citric Acid.

Having stirred it until it is completely dissolved, we pour the content of the glass into a container with files already lying in it.

In a few seconds bubbles will start to rise from the surface of files, and this will show that the process has started.

Why is it better to use hot water?? Because the hot acid solution is more aggressive. It is possible, of course, and cool water to use, but then visually, “sharpening” will begin more slowly. Now, you can put the container with the files somewhere away for a few hours. So you don’t knock it over. As experience shows, it is necessary to keep the file in an acid solution for 12-13 hours. There is another way: with battery-powered electrolyte. Then 6-7 hours will be enough.But, using the electrolyte at home, probably, is not quite right. Alternatively, in the absence of citric acid, vinegar may be used. In the chemical reaction of acid with metal, firstly, the oxide layer is dissolved, and secondly, a thin layer of metal is removed from the file notch, so that its edges become much sharper. Once the time has passed, remove the file from the acid and rinse it thoroughly under running water. Now, it is necessary to neutralize the acid residue on the metal. For this, we dip the file for 10 minutes in a solution of baking soda. And to prevent rust from covering the notch again, you need to keep the tool in a little so called passivating solution. This is 5 grams of laundry soap and 1 gram of sodium nitrate (NaNO3), diluted in 1 liter of water. “Passivation” lasts 10-15 minutes. This is how it should be done. But few people have sodium nitrate at home, so, the last manipulation will have to be skipped, and just rinse after the soda and a good drying file, placing it vertically. I do have saltpeter. But in the form of a very saturated solution.

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It is clear that it is impossible to “revive” a worn file with this method. I tried to restore the rasp. But, as the notch is too coarse, and apparently, the resin remained on the teeth. I could not sharpen the rasp properly just once. I had to soak the rasp in boiling water to get rid of tar, pour the acid again and withstand for almost a day. Became. like new. Good luck.

Painting materials

Before applying paint to a clean surface is better to prime it, but many modern formulations can do without primer. The following paints are used for painting metal:

  • Epoxy, silicone resin-based and hardener. High toxicity implies exclusively outdoor use;
  • oily. a traditional compound, before using which steel products are coated with a primer. The presence of a caustic odor obligates painting in a well-ventilated room;
  • alkyd. has good resistance, does not require a preliminary primer, can be applied in all conditions;. the modern type, created on the basis of polymers. Not toxic, easy to apply, needs careful preparation;
  • rubber. perfectly protects roofs and exterior elements exposed to precipitation.

These are classic paint resources, which are ubiquitous and popular. However, there are other, more specialized mixes:

  • rust specific primer enamel, which prevents the development of rust
  • anti-corrosive, which do not allow the entry of moisture and oxygen;
  • blacksmithing, giving wear resistance;
  • toxic nitro paints.

All of them can provide additional protection, as well as improve performance and reliability. All these activities. an important part of the preparation of products for further painting and increase their life.

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