Filling a conditioner with freon
After finishing of assembling process of the system it is needed to put back his compressor. Next, it is required to make a check for leaks. Thus, you will face the first difficult task. In refrigerators, air can be pumped inward quite easily, as some residual freon should remain inside. And here, in the case of a car air conditioner, the refrigerant has had time to decompose. Certainly it will not do harm to ozone layer, but the necessity of system tightness control is just one more time proved. It is necessary to know also about how to remove a muff of the compressor of an air conditioner.
It is necessary to find the service valve and after that the manifold can be connected. Then it is necessary to pump air in if there is a pressure drop. After all this you can proceed to use a leak detector. It is necessary to remember that not all brands of freon can be suitable for this or that device. To ensure successful searches, the pressure must be about fifteen atmospheres. This is relevant if there are copper tubes. Don’t forget to check the manual.
Further we proceed to diagnostics and repair of a compressor. After that you can put it back and reassemble the system. In this case it is also necessary to check it for leaks. All rules should be followed.
- The system undergoes a nitrogen purging or evacuation process to remove any residual Freon, as well as moisture and/or air. It is imperative that the receiver-dryer is operational. This is explained by the fact that it is the one that has to absorb moisture during evacuation. As for the nitrogen component, it has found its application not only to prevent the possibility of fire. It is not engaged in the absorption of moisture, but its transfer. As it passes through the receiver-drier, all the water will be absorbed.
- The evacuation process, in turn, is accomplished through the manifold. As for the control, it should be done with a manometer. For more effective and reliable moisture removal it is highly recommended to wait for a certain period of time with the pump running.
- Also electromagnetic clutch of the air conditioner compressor can be a reason for breakage. In this connection it is not superfluous to carry out diagnostics of this component.
- After having finished the processes described above you can start to close the manifold valves. Concerning the charging mass, it is necessary to check what is written on the manual pages. The control is carried out by weight. As for the refrigerant, it goes inside under its own pressure. Do not forget to close the valve after finishing the filling process.
At this point you can finally conclude the repair process. At the same time we should not forget about possible leaks. Alternatively it is possible to pump air into the inside before evacuating and then soaping up. True, this method is not the most reliable, though it often helps on the joints. In this way, it will be able to help in the elimination of failures associated with damage to the compressor, with your own hands.
In addition to the refrigerant in the air conditioning system is a special oil. It lubricates all friction couples. The oil circulates through the circuit and is also present in the compressor crankcase. Depending on the type of compressor and the refrigerant used, there are different types of oil, which categorically must not be mixed with each other.к. Paraffin may form and clog the system.
Compressor oil is totally transparent and nearly colourless. Can be bright green in color if it contains dye.
Compressor and air conditioning system malfunctions and breakdowns
The most widespread breakage of the air conditioning system is the refrigerant leakage through the leaky seals or cracks. If there is a lack of freon, the performance of the air conditioning system decreases. If the freon level is very low, the system can shut down the compressor completely to prevent it from breaking. Low Freon level is determined when you fill it up by the amount and pressure drops in the system. A large breakdown is indicated by compressor oil leaks. Although, in most cases, you have to add a special dye visible in ultraviolet.
Air Conditioning Compressor Clutch Diagnosis
The enemies of the cylinder piston group or compressor rotor are increased friction due to lack of oil or increased refrigerant pressure. Also excessive pressure causes the compressor and oil to overheat and become too liquid. These factors cause the friction pairs to scuff each other, the entire system to become clogged with aluminum powder.
Why excessive refrigerant pressure occurs? The first reason is the factors that prevent normal condensation. This is a dirty condenser or a non-functioning fan on the condenser. Overpressure can also be caused by an excessive charge of refrigerant.
If there is a metal chip in the air conditioning system, it is necessary to flush it, and even replace the evaporator and condenser. Otherwise, chips will finish off a newly installed compressor very quickly.
Breakdowns of other mechanical and electronic components, such as the expansion valve, control valve are quite rare. They can appear when a conditioner is not cooling properly, but there is enough freon in the system and there is no leakage.
At replacement of a bearing repair of a muff of the compressor of the auto conditioner occurs step by step. To replace a worn bearing, the technician must remove the pulley, press out the old bearing and install the new. Before putting everything back together, the fitter evaluates the condition of the rubbing surfaces of the pulley and the pressure plate. If there are traces of rust on them (and they are almost always there), they are grinded to ensure a quality clutch.
After that the assembly is reassembled and the backlash is adjusted with washers. The result will be noticeable at once unpleasant rumble disappear, the pulley will rotate almost noiselessly.
Good evening, folks! I will share the way I managed to restore the electromagnetic clutch of the compressor of my air conditioner Zexel. Backstory. In the fall of 2017, I began to hear a strange sound around the compressor when the engine was running. I couldn’t hear anything when I turned on the climate control. It is clear that the bearing of the compressor clutch is worn out. Did not have much time, drove for a while with this fault. Drove around until I noticed smoke coming from under the hood at another light. Quickly pulled over to the side of the road, opened the hood. Smelled like burnt wiring, source of the smoke. around the compressor. A warped pulley is rubbing against the solenoid and overheating it. We have to remove the belt. How? Tighten it too much and you can’t unscrew the tensioner on the road. Finally took a knife and cut the belt, thus freeing the compressor. The service re-pressurized the bearing and found out that the electromagnet is completely dead. The picture is not pretty. The coupling has been removed.
Took out the old charred wire, cleaned the case.
Its internal dimensions are such that the cross section of the coil should not be rectangular, but trapezoidal. This prevented me from winding the coil on a simple mandrel (although I guess I could have tried).
Measurements, internet searches and simple calculations allowed us to determine the parameters of the coil: resistance. 4 ohms, cross section of wire. 0.7 mm, the number of windings. 300. Quite a capable coil for hand winding. It remains to think what to wind it. Four years the disassembled coupling was lying neatly in the closet. And not so long ago YouTube gave me a recommendation on how to make a “cold foghorn”. Turns out it’s such a hobby for a whole bunch of women. They make this faor and then mold flowers out of it. roses, tulips, leaves, etc.д. With the coloring and after drying it is very realistic. So I thought. Here is how to make a template for winding a coil. This phaor. plastic material, made mainly by mixing good PVA, gypsum putty and starch. There might be different additives. It is molded easily, keeps its shape, dries to almost a stone state at room temperature. There are tons of recipes on the internet. In general, I stuffed the inner cavity of the socket under the coil with it. After it dried, I removed. I got this piece:
I wrapped black duct tape around it for strength. Then in the same fashion stuffed it from the inside. After it dried, took out this second part, which was ready to be coiled on it.
Here I corrected its size with paper tape, so that the future coil would fit more easily into the seating.
Then from two jar lids and three screws I constructed a mandrel for winding the coil:
After that, I wound my coil, gluing the coils with masking tape. It was 340 turns and 4,3 Ohm (it could be less, because it hardly fit in place). As a result, we got the following coil:
I put the coil in the clutch housing, put the wires out, soldered it on, and filled it with epoxy. No final photo, but everything is clear. installed everything on the compressor, not forgetting the shims for the pressure plate. A test connection to the battery plus showed that the clamping plate is perfectly magnetic to the pulley. Yesterday in the service, installed a new belt and filled the system with freon and oil. Drove it today. Everything is working fine! When parked with the engine running and the climate on. there is a lot of condensate collecting under the car. In the cabin. nice coolness!