Chuck replacement in an electric drill with your own hands. ways of fixing
Chucks lose their life quicker than other drill parts. The main reason for this is frequent operation. Cartridge deformations contribute to the failure of the drill. The problem can be solved by replacing the old part with a better one. The best way to do this is to follow the instructions.
Why check the torch before inserting the drill?
Before inserting the drill into the torch (e.g. from Bosch), check that it functions correctly and that there are no malfunctions. This is important because there is a risk of breaking the drill if it is operated incorrectly.
It is necessary to do several manipulations with the device to check it:
- Insert the plug into the socket.
- Engage the drilling mode on the tool without firing by pressing the toggle switch for switching modes (usually located on the left side). this is the outermost position.
- Gently press the start button.
If there are no jerks or glitches after turning the device on, then it is functional, which means that you can put the drill in without fear.
Important! When drilling holes, you must never touch the rotating parts of the device, as this can cause serious injury to the operator. The drill can only be changed when the instrument is unplugged.
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Inserting the working tool into the peorator
As mentioned above, the core drill rig must be checked for proper operation before the drill bit is inserted. To do this check, the operating mode of the lever is set to “drilling without hammering”. If you can hear and feel the engine running smoothly and smoothly after pressing the trigger, you can use the torch for its intended purpose by inserting a drill bit or drill bit into the torch.
To fasten a drill bit with a cylindrical shank in the torch, use the adapter with a cam-type chuck
Before inserting the drill bit into the rotary table, the shank of the working tool has to be treated with a special grease, which will protect it from corrosion. The procedure for inserting the drill bit into the peorator is as follows.
- Place the back of the unit on the floor or another hard surface.
- The movable part of the clamping device is pulled back.
- The tool is inserted into the machine as far as it will go. thus it is necessary to hold upright the drill bit or the auger, which should be inserted into the rotary table. If this requirement is neglected, you will be faced with the fact that the tool will fly out or even break, and it can lead to failure of the rotary tool itself.
You should press until a gap, then pull the drill, if it does not come out. all is well
Taking into account the fact that the clamping cartridges on modern rotary tools are designed in a simple way, there are usually no questions about how to remove the drill bit from the rotary tool.
Having removed the used tool to replace it with another, it is advisable to immediately clean its shank of grease and construction dust. The drill shank that you are going to insert must also be cleaned and greased beforehand. The tool thus replaced will not damage the clamping mechanism and will last much longer.
Lubrication extends the working life of the drill bit and the chuck
Using a peorator, you can not only get a drilled element of the construction, but also perform processing with a special chisel. It is also possible to install a mixer as a working body of such a device.
hobbyists often have questions about how to insert a drill bit into an electric screwdriver or how to change a chuck on a rotary tool. To solve the first question quite simply, as in the design of an electric screwdriver chucks of the same design are used as in drills and torches. But the question of how to correctly replace the chuck on the rotary hammer must be approached expertly: it is not easy to perform such a procedure without certain knowledge and skills.
How to remove the chuck from the drill bit
Before you can remove the bit from the torch, you need to determine exactly what kind of torch you want to use. After that, you disassemble the tool and begin to change the elements.
Warning! It is best to carry out the procedure on the table, so as not to lose important parts.
During disassembly, the elements are laid out in the order in which they are removed. it will be easier to reassemble the tool later.
- Remove the rubber tip from the end.
- Use a screwdriver to remove the first retaining ring.
- Pull the plastic coupling guard down.
- Remove the second circlip.
- Remove the coupling guard.
- Remove the springs, retaining plates and balls.
The disassembly process is complete. If you need to change a chuck on a Bosch, Makita, Decker or, for example, Elitech, you will need to remove the remaining part of the sleeve. Install a new part in its place.
To understand the mechanism of the peorator, it is necessary to examine the tail part of the nozzle. There are some recessed areas on it, which are called grooves. The tool, which will be installed in SDS-plus chucks, is characterized by the presence of 4 notches. 2 closed and 2 open.
How to remove a chuck from a peorator
To remove most SDS cartridges from the peorator, the base behind it is withdrawn along the axis towards the motor, and the clamping device is easily extracted, because it is fastened on the principle of the retention of the drill. (First 12 seconds of video)
Some models, such as those from Makita, use double-clamping devices. To remove them, the chuck base behind the chuck must be turned counterclockwise 1/8 of a turn so that the arrow points to the icon of the disengaged clamping unit. As a consequence, it is released.
When using the quick-action chuck in the peorator, you will have to use a screwdriver. Unscrew the left-hand threaded fixing screw with a straight screwdriver. unscrew clockwise.
The chuck itself is unscrewed counterclockwise by hand after securing the shaft with a pin. If not removable, a large hex key can be inserted and clamped. After. one strong blow on the wrench with a wooden object, so as not to deform the tool, counterclockwise.
Alternatively, clamp the hexagonal socket between the jaws and unscrew the chuck with the appropriate wrench.
If a screw does not unscrew, it must be tapped to loosen it by inserting a screwdriver into the slot and tapping with a few light strokes. If there are traces of corrosion near or on the fixing bolt, it must be lubricated with liquid grease.
Jaw chuck, which is placed in the peorator through the adapter, is removed as any other attachment: SDS-assist rear coupling is taken aside in the direction of the electric motor axis, and the clamping device is taken out.
Repair of the percussion mechanism
The design of the percussion mechanisms differs from the type of torch. Therefore, the elimination of the cause of the fault has its own small differences.
The drum unit has a striking unit that functions on the basis of a crank mechanism. The main malfunction of such a unit is considered to be the wear of the bearings and rotating parts. Their repair consists in the installation of new parts, and it is necessary to take into account the strict correspondence of the brand of the element for this model.
On a horizontal-mounted machine, the impactor piston is driven by an oscillating (drunken) bearing. Most often, damage to this unit is caused by wear of such a bearing. When replacing it, special attention should be paid to cleaning the gearbox from possible small fragments of the damaged element and the subsequent lubrication of the parts to be installed.
And also the reason of the unit not beating may be a broken beater, which also must be replaced with a new element.
After all the repair work it is important to assemble the saw correctly and carefully, because the tightness of many of its elements requires exact articulation during assembly.
Extracting a stuck drill bit
There are several ways to get the drill out of the peorator. The bit should be clamped in a workbench vice and then, loosening the tool from side to side, pull it toward you. There is a second possible solution to the problem. Before pulling a drill out of the peorator with a gas wrench, the tool must be clamped in a vise. Then several blows should be made with a copper hammer on the head, clamped with a wrench. The direction of impact should coincide with the vector of the drill bit coming out of the chuck.
Since contamination or lack of lubricant is often the cause, special penetrating liquids can be used. They allow the tool to work properly and extend its life.
The drill can also get jammed because it is twisted in the chuck. In such case it is necessary to remove the chuck elements, but it is possible to try simply to turn the nozzle in the right direction. However, if this is the case, you will need to replace the clamping mechanism parts.
Basic types of drill chucks
By their design, drill chucks are divided into two main types:
- toothed-ring chuck, in which the tool shank is clamped by means of a special key;
- Quick-action drill chuck (QAC), in which the clamping sleeve is actuated by its manual rotation.
Clamping jaw chucks, installed on modern drills, allow you to reliably fix the tool, the shank diameter of which is in the range of 1-25 mm. Devices of this type are practically devoid of disadvantages, the most significant of which is their fairly high cost.
The most popular type of clamping device installed on modern models of drills is the quick-action chuck (QAC). It takes only a few seconds to clamp the tool in the sDS-plus chuck and no special key is needed. The tool shank is clamped by manually rotating an adjusting sleeve, the outer surface of which is corrugated to facilitate this procedure. In order to regulate the mechanical impact created on the tool shank, this type of clamp has a special locking device.
To fix the drill bit, the lower sleeve is held in place with one hand and the upper sleeve is tightened in a clockwise direction with the other
One of the biggest weaknesses of the gear-less chuck is that it does not hold large-diameter drill bit shanks sufficiently well if the elements of the gear mechanism wear out. This causes the tool to rotate during operation.
Compared to the clamping devices of category BZP, the toothed gear chucks ensure securely clamping the tool in any situation. Users who often have to work with electric drills, give preference to clamping chucks of this very type. The only big disadvantage of these devices is that it is quite easy to lose the wrench that powers them. Meanwhile, the emergence of such a problem can be easily avoided if, immediately after the purchase of a drill, to secure the key on the wire of the device with an insulating tape or an ordinary rope.
The diameter of the shank of the bits to be power drilled in the Mini Driver depends on the calibre of the collet
The mini drill chuck, which is mounted on compact drilling devices, is also very popular. The latter are actively used by jewelers. The mini chucks are categorized as quick-action chucks for electric screwdrivers and light drills. Such a small chuck, made mainly of brass, is used to fix tools, the shank diameter of which is in the range of 0.1-4.5 mm.
About the bits for the torque wrenches
Theoretically, a tool with a shank for SDS-plus chucks and even a tool with an even smaller shank diameter can be mounted on an SDS-max chuck. To solve this problem, a special nozzle (adapter) is used, which can be purchased today at almost any construction market. Meanwhile, it is categorically not recommended to use such adapters for the peorator, because using a tool with a smaller diameter on a heavy class peorator will quickly render it unusable.
As a rule, the tool is sold in packs at once and can not be restored after the failure. It should not be confused with ordinary drills, which differ from it in shape of sharpening and spiral structure.
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