How to change bearings on an Interskol angle grinder

9 ZZ (80029) NSK ball bearing (9268)

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Design features of foreign manufacturers angle grinder

In this chapter we will consider the design features of angle grinder produced by Bosch, Hitachi and Makita, as well as the repair of the angle grinder with their own hands.

So, in brief I will describe what to what and why. I like these angle grinder very much, proven over the years. There are its own weaknesses, which I estimate as absolutely not significant. One of its main advantages. very reliable gearbox, gears and housing in general, a powerful motor, convenient dimensions. My last one, which I still have, burnt out after two years of abuse. The rotor on that one, I did not change, I decided just to buy a new one, because I doubted the quality of parts, feared that for the original may send phony, or in general, the quality is not. But with that new one had a bad accident, apparently some kind of metal scale got inside the anchor channel and short-circuited it. I poked around, found an interesting option inspiring confidence and ordered paired with two sets of custom brushes, which are also very decent-looking, and inspire confidence. ) Basically all this, I wanted to do with the old one while the new one is alive, but who knew. Well, here’s a video, there’s a comparison and description of the repair process with tips Hope you like it. )

Later on, in an hour or two, I’ll make a short video with the results so to speak. )

I wonder if I’m the only one who gets lags like that in Movavi? I think his e-mail.

For one thing, here’s a link where you bought, in my part, no complaints and claims, checked himself, all satisfied. rotorua.com.ua/product/jalgarki-interskol-125-900/

Комментарии и мнения владельцев 11

A Dewalt and a Metabo at the very least. What the fuck Interskol?shove it up your ass.

Go to hell, asshole. Stick your tongue in your own, if you want, stick your fingers in yours. I know something about the tool, in your bewilderment, as even helpful advice.I had a Metabo for 8 years served flawlessly, I changed the bearings once and twice the brushes, but it turned out to be useless, because everything worked, but was about to fall apart, the stator seating was bruised, the rotor was broken by shavings and splinters, the two bearings were looseThere was nothing to restore.

You should have asked why it’s so and not waved a lick and a rake at what you shouldn’t.

The wires are shit. Anchors are crap. Don’t blame it on accidents.Unfortunately, that’s reality.You want something that will last, buy something good/expensive or a BU late 2nd/early 3rd millennium after RH :-).

You don’t have to argue with that. I know what’s good and what’s not. The wires, yes they are short and stiff. I put from Sparky, which lasted 3-4 months and solemnly burned to hell, the repair is 2 times more expensive chipped, the power is less. It’s probably just the wires and stuff, that’s all that’s good about it. Anchors, no, I wouldn’t blame them. On my first one, it lasted two years of rape, the conditions were pretty rough. So much junk, and it survived it all. I’ve cut a pile of concrete, wood, iron, I can’t even tell The winding was pretty badly beaten up, but very well. Once again, even my favorite Metabo tool, one of the best, is not completely immune to such cases. Although it has stood me 4 years of cumulative loading, stretched for 8 years on the whole, and one more year of prof-ly stretched. But overall, it’s about twice as reliable as a slightly modified Interskol.The biggest problem with the 125900 is the button! Next, yes, rear bearings, 2-3 times faster fly. Often because of the small amount of grease. In third place a plain bearing in gearbox, because I load it and the motor in general. The brushes work almost all the time, they overload the gearbox even when idle. And the Metabo, gearbox is of course cool, but in 4 years, never used brushes. So with them, in this mode as now, the reducer comes out about the same level with them, though the one is nicer, but weaker. 750 Quick. I’m very happy with it, but it’s not repairable, and the winding was already breathing heavily, all beaten up with debris, bare. Die is true did not have time, then my garage was broken into, and stole all the most valuable. Including the aforementioned DU 161000 in which I have not once got into, 8 years, and wrapped her motors and turned the heads and what not only did in general, and welder, semi-automatic.

In general, my opinion is quite reasonable and adamant. )

The wire. meaning the one the rotor is wound with. Not the mains.Mains wires, buttons, bearings, etc. “consumables”.But if you have to rewind the rotor, it’s money. And, they say, does not hold for a long time, because the wire now. rubbish.Gearboxes rarely fly. If they’re not “plasticine” and don’t kill them on purpose.

All in all, I don’t think bad windings, haven’t let me down once personally. I’m good at analyzing every breakdown. And I’m pretty sure it’s not the quality of the turbine that failed me. It’s common for me, for example, to cut the body in places, like the sills, and see a lot of debris coming out of them into the cooler and so on. That’s the trouble, but a job is a job. And speaking of professionalism, NO tool is ever immune to it, and should be easy, quick and not expensive to repair.

One very knowledgeable electrician. to tools, about 10 years ago told me: Professional tools, starts with Interskol.

All 10 years, I’m only more convinced of that. I’m not blind, I’m not dumb.

Many tools that are 1.5-2 times more expensive, fly better and not by trifles, or on the level in general, except for ridiculous button skolovka. Slightly refinished chipped, jumps to and beyond their level. Repair is often a LOT cheaper.

Not ideal, but tough and really enduring, in harsh conditions. Easy to refine and with a savvy approach, profitable like no other I’ve known so far.

change, bearings, interskol, angle

Also, my friend, you finally support your own, domestic manufacturer!

Recently I was looking for 230 byrgalka. looked in t.C on Interskols. “Brand homeland. Russia, Country of manufacturer. China”.What in ZH “domestic producer”? There is no domestic manufacturer for a long time. Not at all. Everything they try to do is bad and expensive. And you can’t do it any cheaper. Better yet, the price is such that only NASA will buy it later.

About Interskol as such:In terms of quality. collected information. General impression. “Rough, but quite reliable”.For the price of “plasticine” is quite strong “average”.But there are more expensive and pr-view of eg, Japan: Metabo, some Makita models.I bought a second-hand Hilti, and it looked like the one made in the USSR in a metal case. I don’t know what model.

And what we had 10 years ago is not exactly what we have now. The quality, unfortunately, has dropped quite dramatically. That’s why your 10 year old Interskol lasted so long, and the modern one has blown out almost immediately. That’s no accident. This, unfortunately, is reality.The quality is okay with those that cost as much as a car :-). Even if they’re made in China.

For the most part I agree. But, quality is dropping in everything, and in general in almost all brands and brands. It’s just done so that we don’t notice. ) For example in that Metabo (by the way it is Germany), I already had a body was dying. The stator was loose and I had to put in rubber gaskets. Although on the whole a great product, but 3-5 years of professional load is still easier to change than is not cheap to repair. Approximately equal to 2m. chips on the life of the price, so all the 3m. In 2 years, gearbox and case are totally working and fighting, primed halfway through the plugs, and you’re looking at 2 more chipping away. Yeah, let the chipping be done in China already, but I bought one recently, and I’m quite happy. And the brand, if it’s still yours, it gets something for the treasury. And mind you, almost all production is going to China. This is smart, smart move to communism.

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Wires are crap. Anchors are crap. Don’t blame it on chance.Unfortunately, this is reality.You want something that will last. buy something good/expensive or used at the end of the 2nd or beginning of the 3rd millennium after Rs :-).

Gearbox repair in an Interskol 125/900 angle grinder Bearing replacement / 125 angle grinder / Repair

Interskol is a lottery, it’s a matter of luck. I do ottochnosti same angular grinder plowing the 3rd year in the harshest criteria))))

I had a needle bearing on the fly

I have two angle grinders one DeWALT one the same Interskol so Interskol works to the wear and tear and friction is not counting brushes was not any

I had such an angle grinder, advertising is through the roof and the quality is terrible, do not advise anyone to take an angle grinder Interskolawski, angular grinder very quickly deteriorates.

Alexander, tell me what kind of grease you use

Interskol as elsewhere at first quality and later a dud in an expensive and unlimited quantity. Has managed to get made more as if not in China and the Moscow region in the maintenance found a one kosya as in many manufacturers angular grinder. And it is a gear that is dressed in a gearbox at the anchor. Not on a key and turned in the gear and an armature like grooves (I do not know how to call it right) and tightened the nut. So that’s what I want to say with this option fixing the pinion on the armature encountered a very unpleasant situation, but not with Interskol angle grinder and a title elektropribor that we sell in the Rostov region. On the gears at not a heavy load chipped these same whiskers chisel. And the most annoying thing is that there is no service in the specialty store where I bought this stuff. They don’t have those gears.

Good day Alexander, we use these angle grinder for a long time, for cutting and cleaning, and so when brushing with brushes kratsekami get the same result with the backlash in the gearbox, advise what can be done, routinely change the bushing and bearings? Or advise which angle grinder is better to take a more suitable for use with grinders?

really potsnuts in the interscale are worthless in my own shop two weeks after purchase changed )))) didn’t work much

Thank you! And I was wondering how to get the bushing (if necessary) or needle bearings. It turns out it’s that simple! You just want to say the famous phrase genius, chief! )))

Uncle San, thank you for the video. It’s not a backlash, it’s a thermal gap.And what a grease, both green and yellow. Uncle Sanya, good luck, success, good luck and peace to you.

I used a 4 ton jack to jack it out. )))) had no puller

Good afternoon Alexander, I own the same angle grinder also appeared no big backlash in the gearbox. took it to the service said the play is within tolerance, can you tell me what company used the bearings and their size, I will remove the play.

Hello Alexander!Useful things to do!Please tell me if you have a video on the grinders Elprom?

Alexander, how do I send you a private message ?

I have such an angle grinder has been working hard for 2 years. Only broke the button in the gearbox.

Alexander! What kind of grease do you use? ? and what they are. I want to replace the grease in my power tools

I had it for a week, first the gearbox and then the button

Read

I change the starter bushing in the same way on cars VAZ front-wheel drive and others like it (with unsupported starters), using a machine tap.

I wish there was a master like that in my town. That’s why I have to buy expensive tools.

I have an Interskol 115/900, not much difference from the 125/900. Only the shroud and the anchor. In short, in the second year of not active use button began to fly off, poorly fixed. After buying the 4 th month, took the warranty to change the armature, because it somehow jumped out of the wire winding and broke. Then I had to change the button itself. Brushes honestly, I’ve lost count of how many times I changed and no native, had to pick up. In addition, for some reason growls. There was also a large angle grinder Interskol. Gave it to a neighbor. That one’s also a bit of a quirk. General for myself made the conclusion that the interscool is not worth dealing with.And yes, it gets clogged with dust very quickly.

Good day Alexander please advise Interskol 26 when switching from drilling to drilling impact there is a shock but the drill does not turn, I put the switch lever between drilling and drilling impact all works 2 months, especially work I have not seen thanks

Does the angle grinder need additional service after abnormal storage conditions? For example: an angle grinder was in water for a day. Then it dried out and seems to be working Something has to be done ? Or let it work?

How to remove the bearing from the armature of the angle grinder?

Today, home and professional craftsmen use several methods of solving this problem. If you need to remove the bearing

You can do it with these devices from the angle grinder’s anchor or other tools:

  • Pullers. Remove the disc from an angle grinder, how to change it and which one. These are special devices that make it easy and safe to remove bearings of different sizes from the angle grinder’s anchor. The use of pullers requires virtually no physical force, even if the bearing is tightly seated. Thanks to the centering mechanism, the grippers of the device can be set simultaneously. It can be used in any position. Before you remove the bearing, you need to clean the shaft of the angle grinder anchor from old grease, shavings, sand, so that nothing would interfere with taking the part out. The centering mechanism allows the puller to seat precisely. If the bearing is intact and the disassembly process is carried out for inspection, pull it by the inner ring so as not to damage. For large angle grinder armature shafts, a solid puller with three or four claws is used; for small shafts, a puller with interchangeable plates or slats is appropriate.
  • Hammers, chisels, wrenches and other handy tools. In this case, in order to remove the angle grinder armature, it is heated with gas, squeezed in a vise, chipped, chopped and perform many other operations. These methods, of course, can be effective, but there is a great risk that the landing place of the part will be mechanically damaged. And often the bearing itself is not suitable for further use after such manipulation without a puller. The operator can also be injured by pieces of the cage that fly around in the face, eyes, or head after impact.

Practice shows that pullers are more effective in this situation. They allow you to remove the bearing from the armature of your power tool quickly, easily and without much risk, and inspect or replace. If you have to periodically perform such operations, you should get hold of such a useful device. The use of improvised devices is acceptable only if you have experience in repairing power tools and urgent replacement of a part is required.

Other mechanical problems and troubleshooting

In addition to damage caused by the impact mechanism, other mechanical breakdowns can also occur in the motor.

Mode switch

There are times when the machine’s mode switch fails. Mostly it is caused by clogging of this unit with dust. To repair the derailleur you will need to remove it from its housing (to do this, see “How to Repair a Derailleur” on page 31). above) and clean out any debris. If you find any damage to the plastic parts of the derailleur, it must be replaced.

Gears with a bevel gear

The reason why the tool ceases to operate normally, that is, it stops drilling and chiseling, may be caused by worn teeth on the rotor shaft.

If this happens, the teeth on the intermediate helical gear will also be worn.

The problem occurs when the tool jams or the clutch is defective. The breakage can be repaired by replacing the idler pinion and motor rotor.

Drill bit does not hold in chuck

The reason that the peorator does not hold the drill, lies in the breakage of the chuck and the wear and tear of the parts that make it up:

Angle grinder easy to change bearings part-1

Disassemble the chuck and replace the problematic parts.

Drill bit jammed in the lever

The causes of the drill bit jamming in the chuck of the tool can be.

  • You did not apply lubricant to the shank before installing the tool. The sealing rubber of the cartridge will have to be pushed aside and WD-40 will have to be injected into the seat of the tool.
  • Dust under the balls. Perform the same operation as above.
  • If you used an ordinary drill bit in the chuck, inserted into the adapter, then also treat it with liquid WD-40, wait a minute or two, and, slightly tapping with a hammer on the surface of the chuck, loosen the tool in different directions. Usually after these actions, the jaws unclamp and allow you to remove the drill.
  • Tool shank is loose. First pour some WD-40 and try to pull out the drill. If all else fails, disassemble the chuck and knock out the bit. You can also use the tips on how to get a stuck tool out of the machine from this video.
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For drilling holes in various materials, breaking down walls, drilling rocks and roads is designed peorator. The tool is used with heavy loads and it has malfunctions with time. You can replace a broken-down geared tool with an inexpensive Chinese model. But if you have a brand-name tool, it is a shame to throw it away. To avoid having to pay half the cost of a peorator for troubleshooting, you can do it yourself. No repair is complete without learning the structure of the tool and the order of its disassembly.

How to Disassemble the Gearbox of an Interskol angle grinder

The design of the grinder in this case does not cause problems of repair or maintenance associated with their assembly / disassembly. This is one of the advantages of this power tool. Nevertheless, dismantling, such as a gearbox, requires a high degree of accuracy. This is due to the materials used (aluminium, magnesium alloys, plastic), which are not very durable. Using “heavy” methods to work on threaded connections can compromise their integrity, creating additional problems. This article describes some effective methods of repairing grinding gear reducers.

change, bearings, interskol, angle

Subjects

The grinder converts electrical energy into the mechanical action of the machining tool. Therefore, its construction consists of electrical and mechanical parts. The bevel gear is the main element of the shredder’s mechanical part. It consists of the following assemblies and parts:

  • gear housing;
  • spindle on which the working tool is located;
  • gears located on the motor rotor;
  • the driven bevel gearbox located on the spindle;
  • Rolling and plain bearings for slewing bearings.

General disadvantages

Gear set for Interskol angle grinder-2300W; DWT-230 (74x15x49 tooth. 21x10x12 tooth.) ACECA. Photo 220V

The main causes of grinder failure due to faulty gears are.

  • In the course of continuous operation, wear and tear of the mechanisms. In this case there is a “rustling” noise, possible bevel gears sliding against each other. Poor lubrication or lack of oil accelerates the wear of the bevel gear.
  • Bearings also have a limited lifespan. statement. Failure to replace them can lead to complete destruction of the structural integrity of the bearing unit. The cause of the test is increased noise and vibration during the grinding machine, severe heating of the gear housing.
  • There is a development of support seats. Here you can solve the problem drastically by replacing the gear housing.
  • Possible breakage of fasteners Gear construction: Nuts, screws, dowels, retainers and other similar parts.

Tools needed to disassemble an angle grinder

Gear lubricant for Makita angle grinder, 30 grams. Photo AllInstruments.ru

Gearbox must be disassembled at a trained workplace where there are no unnecessary parts. This is necessary to avoid losing small reducers. It is necessary to equip the following tools and equipment at the workplace:

  • bench press;
  • set of wrenches and screwdrivers;
  • different types of hammers. From wood to steel;
  • pliers;
  • ring tool;
  • A gas wrench;
  • pullers for bearings and gears pressed against the shaft;
  • it is a good idea to have proper pressing equipment for quality bearing assembly;
  • In its absence, you can use extensions of different designs;
  • Wipes with detergents (kerosene and other similar liquids);
  • availability of lubricants.

Properly disassemble an angle grinder, video

There are many companies that specialize in making angle grinders. The basic principles of grinding machine design are virtually the same for all companies. However, when repairing a particular brand of grinder, there are some peculiarities to consider. The experience of such repair of the master is presented in video formats, it is presented below.

Bosch

An overview of one of the Bosch household grinders is presented in the following video. He disassembles the gearbox, then visually inspects the gearbox obliquely. The presence and condition of the oil is determined. The wear and tear of the mechanism can be determined. In this case, since the grinding machine is new, you can only make sure that there is a spindle single bearing as a sliding and mowing gear bearing. is the spur. The author associates these design features of this grinder Bosch with its shortcomings. Indeed, the life of such a grinder. The noise will not be very good.

How to determine the malfunction of the anchor angle grinder

Defective rotor for a Makita angle grinder 9069 MAX. Photo 220Volt

One of the performance advantages of asynchronous commutator motors is that the spindle speed remains constant when the load varies. That is why it is practically impossible to detect overloaded angle grinder operation according to external symptoms (rotational speed, tone of sound during work). The main factor here will be the temperature of the housing of the angle grinder, the increase of which can not be immediately noticed when working with gloves.

It is the high temperature that causes the insulation on the rotor windings to melt. The engine will begin to work intermittently and eventually stop. If the angle grinder overheats, the contacts of the rotor windings with the collector can fall off, which leads to a break in the electrical circuit. The presence of inter-turn windings makes it possible for the shaft to rotate in different directions.

If there is increased sparking (as a cause of inter-turn shorting of the rotor windings or poor contact with the collector) in the brush-collector assembly, you should check the electrical operation of the angle grinder.

Diagnosis begins with a visual inspection of all elements of the angle grinder. Consecutive disassembly allows complete inspection of all components from all sides. The anchor removed from the angle grinder should be inspected under a bright light. Burned wires with traces of burning, broken wires, disturbances in the winding connections. the presence of such defects requires repair of the rotor or its replacement. You can also pay attention to the specific smell from the burnt insulation.

If the external examination did not yield results, the search for the causes of faults continues with the help of testing of electrical circuits with devices (multimeter, short-circuit indicator and others).

Design features of foreign manufacturers angle grinder

In this chapter we will consider the design features of angle grinders produced under the brands Bosch, Hitachi and Makita, as well as repair angle grinder with their own hands.

Bosch angle grinder repair

Bosch angle grinders are reliable tools, which do not give much trouble to the user. But not every user treats the tool correctly. The Bosch angle grinder is most often repaired by replacing the bearings.

All Bosch angle grinders are designed according to the same scheme. Spindle shaft pos.25 is pressed into the helical drive pinion pos.26 and is supported in the gear housing pos.821 in the gearbox housing with needle bearing pos.51.

If the bearing breaks, the bearing rim is left inside the housing and is not easy to remove. We recommend two ways to remove the needle bearing cage. These are described in “How to remove the needle bearing”.

In case of wear or galling of teeth of the gear pair, both must be replaced and only in pairs. When disassembling the gears, remember that the drive pinion is mounted on the rotor shaft on the threads, and the LEFT and fixed with a nut. Driven large helical pinion pos.26 pressed on the spindle shaft pos.25.

Repair of Hitachi angle grinder

Extremely popular among Russian consumers have got an angle grinder Hitachi. And it’s a legitimate thing to do. There are practically no homemade knockoffs of Hitachi buckwheels on the market. Simple design allows you to easily perform repairs of any complexity.

Hitachi angle grinders have high reliability and don’t often come across the table of repairmen. The main reason to get to the angular grinder Hinachi for repair. gearbox failure, namely, loss of teeth of gears.

The gearbox of the angle grinder is easily disassembled. To disconnect the gear housing pos.3 from the stator housing pos.37, it is necessary to release carbon brushes.

Remove the four screws pos.1, securing gearbox housing and stator housing. Disconnect gear case and stator housing. The gear housing will detach together with the rotor pos.8.

To remove the gear cover pos.23, you need to remove the four screws pos.24. Helical geared pinion pos.33 is fixed on the spindle shaft pos.26 by means of a key.25 and can be removed with a puller. The bearing pos.21 can be removed with a puller.

change, bearings, interskol, angle

Repair Makita angle grinder

The special feature of this Makita family of angle grinders is the quick-release safety cover pos.19.

Makita angle grinders are the most common type of grinder to be repaired. But the reason is the high percentage of fakes that have invaded the Russian market.

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A real Makita is a reliable, durable tool. But, like all angle grinders, suffers from failure of the gearbox, its gears.

Gearbox gears are replaced in case of their jamming or destruction.

To repair a Makita 9069 or Makita 9558 HN angle grinder, you must disassemble the angle grinder.

If the reducer is defective, which can be determined by appearance of play of spindle shaft, gear jamming, slipping of idler pinion, then disconnect the reducer from the stator case. Release the carbon brushes pos.35, unscrew the four screws pos.10 and separate gearbox housing from stator housing pos.37.

In the next step remove the four screws pos.18 holding the rotor cover pos.15. Drive gear pos.14 removed with the help of the press. Drive pinion pos.43 is secured by a keyed joint and secured by a nut pos.42. Rotor shaft bearings pos.3 can be removed by means of pullers.

What kind of angle grinder repair the user can do with their own hands

Although the angle grinder is not a tool of any particular complexity, not all components are beyond the user’s control for repair.

In addition to simple replacement of bearings or gears, there are some problems that can’t be solved without special equipment or tools.

  • To press pinion out, a press is needed. It is not possible to wind the rotor without tools.
  • Such malfunctions include failure of the rotor. For the average user, such a malfunction ends up in a trip to the service center.
  • Advanced users can revive a burnt-out rotor with some skill and understanding. But sometimes it’s easier to buy a new one than to deal with rewinding.

For most users, the repair of the angle grinder with their own hands is limited to a certain range of faults.

Systematization of electrical faults on the angle grinder

  • The easiest malfunction, which does not turn on the angle grinder. breakage of the power cord. The most common breakage is in the power cord near the plug or at the inlet to the tool. The problem is easily solved by replacing the power cord or removing a broken piece of wire.
  • There is increased heat around the carbon brushes. Most often, such a malfunction occurs due to the shortening of carbon brushes less than the nominal size. Length of carbon brushes must not be shorter than 8 mm.
  • Angle grinder ON/OFF button sticking. Trouble with internal contacts in the button burnout. Can be eliminated by fully replacing the button with a new one.
  • Some angle grinder models have a device that enables infinitely variable adjustment of the angle grinder’s RPM. The angle grinder’s speed regulator improves the angle grinder’s smooth engagement and prevents the grinding tool from jamming. Repair of the angle grinder RPM regulator is to replace it completely.

Grouping of malfunctions according to the mechanical part of the angle grinder

  • Extraneous noise in the gearbox of the angle grinder, gearbox heating. Failure is associated with destruction of the bearing, gear teeth deterioration, lubricant drying. Can be fixed by replacing the pinion gears if the gear teeth are worn too much. If the gear teeth are slightly worn, you can try to correct this. The tooth profile is corrected manually by filing with a round file and a drill. Lubricant must be replaced with new grease each time the gearbox is repaired. New grease is applied to thoroughly cleaned parts.
  • The bearing must be replaced if it has deteriorated or if excessive play occurs. Some models have an interference fit on the spindle. Replacing requires special equipment, in particular a press. Parts need to be cooled or heated.
  • The bearings on the rotor need to be replaced if there is a large runout. You can readily see increased runout on the rotor header and by the wear rate of the carbon brushes.

Simple troubleshooting and troubleshooting with your own hands

If you have an angle grinder that does not turn on when you press the start button, start by inspecting the power cable at the tool inlet.

Unscrew the cover of the angle grinder and check the continuity of the power cord with a tester or phase. Strictly observe the safety instructions.

If the power cord is intact, but the angle grinder does not turn on, replace the “Start” button.

If the angle grinder does not work when you install a new button, check the quality of the carbon brushes attachment and their tight fit to the rotor collector.

Difficult malfunctions and repair angle grinder with your own hands

The following types of failure require certain knowledge and skills for their elimination:

  • Bearing seizure or breakage.
  • Grinding or breaking of gear teeth.
  • Breakage or short circuit in the rotor or stator.
  • Failure of control chain components.
  • Rupture of the gear housing.

Gears slipping

On the description and correction of this defect I will consider in detail, because its elimination will help to avoid other malfunctions.

There is always a temptation not to buy new gear wheels, but to use up old ones, even if they are worn a little, but not completely worn out. Unfortunately, nothing good can come of this endeavor. You will waste time and effort. Once rolled-up gear-edges can not be restored, they will in any case slip.

If the process of teeth wear has gone too far, the angle grinder produces a characteristic whistling sound when it is turned on. Gears in this case have to be replaced, and in pairs. You can visually see how worn out the gears are. On one side of the teeth of both gears is formed a characteristic radius smoothly passing into the chamfer, formed by the slippage of the mating gears.

Why this malfunction occurs

  • In my opinion, the main reason lies in the inaccuracy of design calculations of the dimensions of the gearbox, everything is done on the spot. Then, increasing, the lack of technological discipline and, as a consequence, defects or short life of the tool.
  • Another reason is a material mismatch. If someone was involved in repair of Chinese products, he knows what I mean.
  • Loose gear cover fasteners. The reason for this failure is more likely carelessness of the user, you need to watch the power tool, but it may turn out that the threads in one of the cover’s fasteners to the gearbox housing are just torn.

How to fix this problem

Of course, the gears will have to be replaced in any case, but the tool’s newfound ability to work will not last long. The cause of the problem has to be removed.

There are four ways to repair angle grinder suffering from insufficient clutch of drive and idler gears.

  • Grind down about 1 mm of the metal surface of the gearbox housing adjacent to the cover or grind half of this distance on the housing and the other half on the cover. This way, only at first glance seems the easiest of all proposed. In fact, without a surface grinding machine, it is hardly feasible, at a more or less quality level. over, grinding the body will reduce the depth of the blind holes for the mounting screws, which can affect the proper seating of the cover on the gearbox housing.
  • Shift the pinion (small) pinion closer to the idler pinion with a shim washer. In principle, this method is as good as the next two, but the problem here is calculating the size by which the pinion should be shifted. A too loose fit will do nothing and too tight a contact will only speed up the wear process.
  • Shrink the idler pinion on the shaft from the cap bearing closer to the idler pinion, about 1 mm. The idea is simple, a tighter fit is prevented by a retaining ring, which in turn is held in a retaining groove machined into the shaft. That is why it is necessary to make a new groove, a little bit lower than the native one, about one millimeter, and under the driven gear to put a washer, which thickness is equal to the distance on which the locking groove is shifted.
  • Shrink the shaft itself, with the idler pinion sitting on it. To do this, it is necessary to mill the bearing shoulder on the shaft. In this case the shaft will be somewhat displaced to the side of the cover (in my case by 1.3 mm). The idler gear will move with it.

Turning the shaft is probably the easiest and most effective solution to the problem of insufficient grip gears, of course, when you have a lathe “at hand”. If necessary it is possible to cut the face of the shaft entering the bearing bush.

This is what I meant when I wrote about the inconsistency of materials. As you can see the bushing is made of powder, but worse than that this powder is not sintered properly, which means that soon the part will crumble.

Some models of lathes have a needle bearing instead of a bushing, which, however, does not really affect the life of the product as a whole.

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