Hammer for templates for what

Peorator. Designation, types, characteristics and features

The drill’s closest cousin that doesn’t drill, but actually punches holes with a drill. the peorator.

Combination of rotation of the working element with forward strikes allows it to work on materials that classical tools can’t cope with.

Peorator can have several modes of operation, differs in the location of the motor and the type of drive in general.

It is one of the main tools for carrying out repairs and construction work, and in some situations it is simply indispensable.

Questions from Subscribers! “Tool.

Hello friends! For those who do not know me, I will tell you briefly. I work with leather 1.5 years, and ready to share my views with you as someone who has gone from Chinese tools, accessories and Russian leather and threw away like many of you a lot of money. (Or not yet? then read on).

The purpose of this article. To help you choose the right tool and not buy what I think you don’t need.

I’ll tell you about the style first. I do my work looking back at tanners in Europe and Asia. Hello to those who learn from Salti Dog (I started with his videos, but I noticed a tendency. That a lot of guys are repeating the wrong things. For example, slicker, trying to process the ends of chrome-tanned leather.) Take the basics from Zhenya, but do it your way. Otherwise there will be silly questions like: “I made a purse like a salty dog, according to his molds, what should I change?” Friend, start with yourself. Change the patterns, ask yourself, you like it? You’d wear that? I’m over 400 dtzm. the leather went in the trash, because the euphoria of the first products faded instantly. I was comparing myself with the work of professionals and realized what I enjoy? You can also come across simple pieces from me that the level won’t show. But I will say one thing, I never skimped on leather. Even when I first started, I took Italy (then I realized that there is a lot of Italy, there are only about 20 factories passed quality). But nevertheless. The only thing was when I first got acquainted with the leather hobby (yes, there I got my red krust and squeaked with pleasure) was naive, how much I did not know then.

Now I understand what a pueblo by Carlo badalassi, chromexel by horvin and buttero. The price ranges from 50 to 150 p. per dtzm. What is French goat and what is the difference between them. If these words didn’t say anything to you, don’t feel bad, for those who are interested in skin. You will soon learn everything and see the big picture. You will only have to try it once. There’s plenty of opportunity, to order cutoffs. For example, 30cm by 30cm. But otherwise, you wouldn’t understand in words.

P.s. I do not like embossing, wallets sandwiches and Russian leather (about it in the next articles) So if you do not see any tool. I just don’t need it. Or I didn’t think it was necessary to describe it. Talk about the base.

So I present my tool kit! And then down the list.

Hammer Map Creation Time Lapse

Cutting knife. I have not tried other knives. precisely, I had a circular knife from ali a long time ago. But I did not like the way it works. Working with it was a balancing act on the cutting line and how it wouldn’t run over my finger. In general, it did not come well assembled. I use a regular one with yellow blades (more durable and wear-resistant), as the manufacturer claims. I don’t need more than that for my main jobs, such as mowing.

The mallet, hammer, etc. it is a year and a half, I got it in ali and so far has served faithfully. Buy for your opinion.

Round punches. Here’s my advice, before you buy, look at their spouts. Especially sizes 3, 2 and 1. My first round punches were from ali, but the sharpening was at a blunt angle and the marks were uneven and fuzzy. (They are often sold in basic tanner kits. Do not buy these kits. It’s a slag.). These punches are also from ali but with the right approach to what the spouts should be. On ali they sell them in a yellow box. Look at the store WUTA. They resell them but you can find cheaper ones just like them. Half of Woot’s products are just resold at an inflated price.

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This thing is also a puncher, only for round corners. Radius 0.5 mm. There are bigger ones, but I don’t need them. Guys, those who watch the salty dog (Zhenya). Stop using 5, two rubles, etc. as a base or template for rounding. First of all, with a puncher like mine, it’s one punch. one cut, and secondly, come on, you go into the tanning business, understand, it’s simple from the outside and you burn to do beautiful, but do not yet know how it is and try to dodge unnecessary purchases, and on the other hand. Is an expensive hobby. Very. And if you want to make money from it and grow. Use the right tool. I’m not saying expensive or top-of-the-line. I say it has to be right and necessary. The puncher is on sale on ali. There are a lot of views. Look at the sharpening and the look. This puncher is at 93 degrees to keep the edges of the leather intact.

Line punchers. I had three sets of them. The first black ones (a la Japan or they call them Japanese). I’m not saying expensive or top-of-the-line. Tearing the skin. The second ones are not great either, but I worked with them for the first six months. The pitch on them is called French. I like this step. But very light and small. The trail breakdown itself is good. And the last reasonable for my money I advise from Wuta. Now came the second version already. It is important to understand the step of the puncture! They come in 2.7 to 5, I think. I was interested in 3.85 and 3.0. The pitch should be chosen depending on the thickness of the thread. My go-to thicknesses are 0.45 and 0.4. It used to be 0.8, but I think it’s too thick now.

Eyepiece, wish fulfillment

The third attempt to make a case for glasses. The first two versions for various reasons did not suit me, now I make “under myself.It all starts with the measurements. Length, width, height, nose liner. I just take the glasses and measure.

Next I draw a sketch. I can’t draw, but it doesn’t take much talent.

Roughly understanding what’s what, I draw a pattern. Marking the beginning and the end of the punctures on the sides. At the same time I mark the punctures on the radius of the sides, because on small radii the location of the punctures on the outside and inside will be different. I am deciding on the fixing: I wanted to do on magnets, but the parcel with them lives somewhere without me, so there will be a valve on the button

Figure. That’s good, but to finally understand what I’m making up here, I’m making a model. Trying on glasses, different ones, whatever.

As if everything is normal. I take the leather, the calfskin, 2 mm, mark it, cut it. For better comfort of the glasses, I cut the lining from the sawdust. I glue the pieces for the sides.

In the places where the sides are fastened, I trim the lining, install the button and glue the lining. The cut will be “in the crease”. I sew, bend, glue, stitch.

The nose pad will be attached to the bolsters. Since I don’t like the steel sheen of the lanyards and buttons, I decided to cover them with leather. (I have seen tightened buttons on Pikaboo, but tightened pads I do not remember. Well, what can’t you do for yourself))) I’m doing a striping on the machine. It’s pretty garbage. At the same time I make sure that going to the kit with a dvuilka Chinese blades. Well, not particularly high quality, let’s just say.

In 4 steps I get a strip of the right thickness.

I punch out circles of the desired diameter, glue.

hammer, templates

It’s okay, the liner is movable, you can put on glasses with different width of the nose bridge.The tight-fitting lenses look quite in place

The final stage, assembly. I decided to do it in two stitches. Yigao Thread, 0.55mm. First half.

Inside everything is fine, just as it was designed.

The seat of the glasses. It doesn’t get any better than this. Measured for a reason.

This version suits me fine. Can move on to other ideas.

Shape and integrated functions

Electric rotators are available in straight form and “L”-shaped. They differ in the location of the engine. In the L-shaped models it is vertical. This makes them look more compact. In addition, these models are characterized by efficient cooling. That way they won’t overheat during uninterrupted work.

Straight devices have a narrow and long body. It has a motor that sits horizontally. They weigh less than L-shaped models. Features like these make it very easy to use in confined spaces.

Bosch PBH 2000 RE

After good experience with the domestic screwdriver, I decided to use the Bosch PBH 2000 RE, a peorator of the same series. I have to say at once that the result was beyond all expectations.

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Bosch PBH 2000 RE

I took it for the 6×40, 6×60 fastener only. But with the maximum energy of a single blow of 1.5 Joule the “baby” has no problem to cope with larger holes, up to the claimed 20 mm. Almost as easy to use as its lighter, professional blue counterparts. Can it be? In general, the ratio of motor power with impact force 550W/1,5-1,7J in professional circles is considered ideal in terms of durability of the tool, many manufacturers adhere to such a proportion for the ultra light models. Its motor has only 550 watts of power, so some difficulties, of course, arise on viscous bases (such as not completely dried concrete), but this is rather a rare exception to the rule. It feels very fast, I looked in the data sheet. it is true, the impact rate is 5800 beats./min., and a nominal shaft speed of 2,300 rpm./min.

By comparison, the GBH 2-24 DSR achieves 4,850 beats/min./min. and 870 rpm./min. respectively. It’s clear now, the designers have placed their bets on speed. over, Germans offered an interesting construction of the striking mechanism: they didn’t use a gear box, and transmitted rotation of the engine directly to the spindle of the pneumatic drive, the bit has got unique trajectory, the shaft is reliably fixed by 50-mm spindle neck. Such technological innovations and usage of very high quality details allowed to make PBH 2000 RE three modes with a clean chisel function (plus the possibility of fixing a certain position of the flat chisel), what the competitors never dared to do. There is a button lock, it is recessed into the plastic handle and does not trigger at an accidental touch. The manufacturers don’t say anything about anti-jamming protection, but there is a sensation of a sensitive overrunning clutch. probably another know-how. We have at our disposal a reverse and a very sensitive button that provides electronic speed control, smooth acceleration from 0 to maximum. So, let’s use an adapter chuck and go on working like a screwdriver. The torch is the lightest and most compact of all the tools I have held in my hands. Its weight is only 2.2 kg along with three meters of cord and its length is 32 cm.

The plastic of which the case is made is pleasant to the touch, clearly shockproof. tested. Recognizable triangular housing design makes it even more robust and stable. The Bosch PBH 2000 RE is also unbelievably handsome.

It’s a great peorator, even for the construction site. Its positioning as a tool for home use is rather arbitrary. There is a conclusion that Bosch company is one of few that made a budget line of tools “for a domestic workshop” and had to “stifle” characteristics of professional line for the sake of assortment. But it is something very special, and I want to thank my designers very much for that. We have been using this baby at sites for three years and no problems, not even a brush change. I think it can easily outlast several Chinese models that are close in price. The PBH 2000 RE retails for only 110-120.

I think that the reason of longevity of my torches is in many ways the careful treatment and strict following of the recommendations of the producer. Determined for myself and some general rules:

How to insert and remove the drill bit or drill bit

Peorator models can be fitted with three types of chucks:

The vast majority of our rotary tools are fitted with an SDS chuck, so we’ll take this chuck as an example to show how to set up the drill.

Inserting the drill bit

The SDS chuck is a quick-action chuck. A drill bit with an appropriate shank can be inserted into such a chuck in three steps:

SDS mechanism is reliable, does not let the drill fall out and saves time on changing drills. It is used for small and medium power industrial and household rotary tools.

Special cam chuck with SDS shank is needed for work with drills with usual cylindrical shank. This chuck allows you to work with standard drills in power drill mode. Nevertheless, it is possible to find drills with SDS shanks.

Junction chuck with SDS shank for drilling with standard drill bits

Drill bit removal

For the removal of a drill bit or drill chuck from the SDS system it is necessary:

  • Wait for the chuck to come to a complete stop.
  • Insert your hand into the lower chuck socket.
  • Unscrew or pull off the top sleeve with the other hand.
  • Take out the drill or drill bit.

Drill bits can be removed with one hand for single-feet chuck style rotary drills. These models have an automatic shaft locking mechanism.

Ruler scale in industry

According to the templates, shoes are sewn, cookies are made, even the smallest sewing product is cut on the ruler. But apart from these, well-known to all industries, such devices are used in aircraft construction, shipbuilding, automotive industry, construction of houses and roads, tunnels, in finishing works for architectural and interior decorations. Such moulds are used for shaping non-standard decorative bricks and many other different products and parts, which have to be exactly the same in terms of size and configuration.

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Shipbuilding rulers are distinguished by their peculiar shape, with many conjunctions of curves and smooth lines. Therefore, it is possible to create such rulers by the template-planar method (plaz or plas. area). The plaza room must be spacious enough to allow the entire theoretical drawing to be transferred to the floor plane. Earlier such a drawing was carried out with graphite pencils on a light wooden floor.

Now the circuit is transferred by modern photochemical methods, this noticeably facilitates and speeds up the work. Patterns are made directly on the drawing. They are made of transparent plastic, with the joints, rivets and bolts marked. Rulers production work is painstaking, requiring patience and time. Almost all machining and edge trimming is done by hand. The blueprint is kept on the floor until the ship is completed. Aviation patterns are made according to the same scheme. They are all numbered. Paired parts are made using the same template, if necessary in the mirror image.

Particularly high requirements are imposed on the accuracy of template production for aircraft and ship models.

In the automotive industry bodywork and cabs are cut out along these lines. Blanks for serial production are made of hard metals, for piece production less hard materials. heavy cardboard or plastic. can be used. The molds are widely used in the manufacture of tanks for the chemical industry, especially for the manufacture of gas holders (ball-shaped containers). Such tanks are used to store aggressive liquids, often under high pressure, so the molds for the manufacture also have higher requirements.

Break-through drill and its purpose

If in a concrete wall it is necessary to drill a through hole of large size, then for such purposes, special attachments. breakthrough drills are used. They can be solid or collapsible. Collapsible models allow you to change tips, which is necessary depending on the size of the hole to be drilled in the concrete. Structurally, a breakthrough drill under the peorator consists of the following parts:

  • Different types of shank
  • Extension. its length depends on the thickness of the wall. Usually the length of the extension is 50 cm or more
  • Tip. in shape it is similar to an ordinary drill, only it consists of several spirals, and also has a large size (like a crown)

The breakthrough drill is designed with an alignment drill, which prevents the nozzle from drifting away from the target. Concrete breaking is entrusted to special teeth with a tipped layer of pobedite that gnaw into the base and hammer out concrete, thus getting a hole in the end.

hammer, templates

This is interesting! If you need to drill a through hole with a large diameter of over 50-60 mm in the wall, you can use a breakthrough drill for this purpose.

How to work with a peorator or increase the life of the tool

It is not difficult to learn how to use the torch properly once you understand how it works. To increase the service life of the tool in question, it is recommended that you do the following:

  • Always check that the tool is working properly before work. If unusual noises or faulty operation occur, you should not operate the tool at all. It is not only life threatening, but also can lead to failure of the whole tool mechanism
  • It is obligatory to lubricate the shanks of the bits that are installed in the torch chuck
  • Hold the tool strictly at right angles to the work surface when drilling concrete
  • Wear only safety equipment
  • not to take up the nozzle with bare hands after finishing work, because the drills heat up to a temperature of 80-90 degrees or more
  • Store the tool in its protective case when work is complete
  • To work only with tools that are in good working order, i.e. sharpened and without defects that could break the core drill or spike in two while working

Source Engine Hammer for Garry’s Mod

Do not forget to inspect the gearbox at regular intervals, as it requires regular lubrication. Only with the right approach to the use of power tools can we say that they will last not only the specified warranty term, but five times that period.

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