Grinding nozzles for the graver with his own hands

Self-Made Nozzles / Cutters / Consumables for Engraver, Drill and Drill-Machine

grinding, nozzles, graver, hands

The article will cover the topic of how to make consumables with their own hands. It’s no secret that the Chinese nozzles are of very low quality and the branded ones are pricey. So in some cases, it is more advantageous to make it yourself. Under the hood you can see my homemade nozzles and as interesting solutions from the Internet.

  • Abrasive nozzles
  • Petal wheel for the engraver
  • The original sandpaper on the rubber drum is not long lived, therefore you need to find an alternative solution. We cut circles of small diameter from plywood:

In the obtained slots we glue the emery on the epoxy resin:

Petal circle for the drill

Larger diameter nozzle. In order not to get a “spread” as in the previous version, when gluing the emery should be tightened with a rubber band. This is because the base of the fabric absorbs the resin from the cut and coarsens.

  • The advantage of petal wheels is that they last an order of magnitude longer than regular sandpaper on a reel of the same diameter.
  • Drill sander made of tape recorder rollers
  • Older tape reels have large rubber rollers with a metal bushing. We put a bolt on the bushing and glue the emery on the rubber:
  • Cutting discs for the engraver
  • The topic is quite common, but still tell you for completeness of the picture.
  • We take a thin cutting disc for an angle grinder, a compass with two needles, an awl, and unnecessary scissors:

1) trace circles with a compass (don’t make too big circles, it’s not convenient to work with them). The optimum size is slightly smaller than a standard circle) Take care that the center of the circle is in the middle of one of the squares of the reinforcement mesh.

2) Cut the disk with scissors into sectors, and then cut out the circles themselves, which are in the sectors. For this work will be good scissors for metal, but the usual office scissors can also do, but they are from this more blunt, so take those scissors that do not regret.

3) With light rotary movements of the awl we start to make the hole from both sides in turn. The diameter of the hole should be the same as the diameter of the screw. If the hole is a little larger, it will break.

It is much cheaper to make these circles than to buy them. They also last longer than commercially available unreinforced grinding wheels.

Decorative sanding nozzle

A self-tapping screw without a cap is screwed into the plug, and a washer is glued to the base. The cams of the chuck will rest on the washer and keep the self-tapping screw in deeper.

  • It is most convenient to use such a nozzle on a drilling machine. You can screw a felt nozzle into the plug instead of a self-tapping screw:
  • Polishing nozzle for a drill

Another fairly common theme. Felt from the felt is clamped by a bolt with wide washers. A polishing paste such as GOI paste is applied to the felt.

  • The following are some examples of abrasive nozzles, taken from the Internet.
  • Grinding drum for a drill
  • Grinding drum for an engraver

On a lathe, a metal drum with a slit is turned out, into which the edge of the felt pad is inserted and wrapped around the drum. You secure it with a rubber band. The same construction can also be made from plywood, as shown in the previous version.

  • Grinding cylinders for an engraver
  • Comrade Marshall suggests making cylinders this way, and I quote:
  • In order to make this type of supplies we need: strong, but as thin as possible cloth (preferably cotton), sandpaper of the right grit, and most importantly, a tube of suitable diameter, which will be on the cylinders during the bonding.

So, we take the cloth and cut it in long 12mm wide strips. Then these strips are cut to the size of the diameter of the tube with an overlap of about 1-1.5 cm., Pull it tightly over the tube (so it won’t wiggle) and glue the pieces on the tube with some regular PVA.

Next, the task is a little more complicated: it is necessary to correctly make a stencil, which will later be cut out skins themselves. The stencil is shown in the picture on the right below the tube. Here’s how it’s done: cut a piece of skin the same width as the fabric, but 1 cm longer. We put it on top of the glued fabric and mark the place where the junction of the two ends of the skins should be.

After that we do the necessary geometric steps: from the point of proper junction we spend across the skinning line, from the other end of the skinning line, at the same distance do the same, then we spend in the formed rectangles diagonals and cut off pieces of skinning line on these diagonals.

Now, when you put your stencil on top of the cloth glued on the tube, you get a precise diagonal connection of the sandpaper ends. Now you have a stencil, which you can outline with a pen on the back side of the sandpaper.

Homemade nozzles / cutters / supplies for the engraver, drill and drilling machine

This article will touch on how to make consumables with your own hands. It’s no secret that the Chinese nozzles are of very low quality, and the branded price is biting. So in some cases it will be more profitable to make your own. Under the hood you can see my handmade tools and some interesting decisions from the Internet.

  • Abrasive nozzles
  • Petal wheel for the engraver
  • Native sandpaper on a rubber drum do not live long, therefore it is necessary to find an alternative solution. Cut out a small circle from plywood:

We glue the sandpaper into the slots obtained with epoxy resin:

Blade wheel for the drill

A larger diameter nozzle. In order not to get a “spread” like in the previous version, when gluing the sandpaper should be tightened with a rubber band. This is because the base of the fabric absorbs the resin from the cut and becomes rough.

  • The plus side of a petal wheel is that it lasts an order of magnitude longer than a regular emery wheel on a drum of the same diameter.
  • Drill sander made from tape recorder casters
  • In the old tape-recorders, there are big rubber rollers with a metal bushing. We put a bolt on the sleeve and glue an emery on the rubber:
  • Cutting-off wheels for the engraver
  • It’s a pretty common topic, but still tell you the whole picture.
  • We take a thin cutting disc for angle grinder, a compass with two needles, awl, and unnecessary scissors:
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1) We draw circles with a compass (don’t make too big circles, they are inconvenient to work with). The optimum size is slightly less than a standard circle) Take care that the center of the circle is in the middle of one of the squares of reinforcing mesh.

2) Cut the disk with scissors into sectors, and then cut out the circles themselves, which are in the sectors. For this work will be good scissors for metal, but the usual office scissors can also do, but they blunt stronger, so take those scissors, which are not sorry.

3) With light rotary movements of the awl we start to make a hole in turns on both sides. The diameter of the hole should be the same as the diameter of the screw. If the hole is a little larger, it will break.

It is much cheaper to make these circles than to buy them. They also last longer than purchased unreinforced circles.

Decorative sanding tool

Screw a self-tapping screw without a cap into the plug, and a washer is glued to the base. The chuck jaws will rest against the washer and prevent the self-drilling screw from turning in deeper.

  • It is most convenient to use such a nozzle on a drilling machine. You can screw a felt nozzle into the cork instead of a self-tapping screw:
  • Polishing nozzle for a drill

Another fairly common topic. The felt is clamped by the bolt with wide washers. A polishing paste, such as GOI paste, is spread on the felt.

  • The following are a few examples of abrasive nozzles taken from the internet.
  • The sanding drum for the drill
  • Sanding drum for an engraver

A metal drum with a slot is produced on a lathe, into which the edge of the overlap is inserted and wrapped around the drum. The felting is held in place with a rubber band. The same construction can also be made of plywood, as shown in the previous version.

  • Grinding cylinders for an engraver
  • Comrade Marshall suggests making cylinders this way. cited:
  • In order to make this kind of supplies we need: strong, but as thin as possible cloth (preferably cotton), sandpaper of needed grit, and most importantly, a tube of suitable diameter, which will be located on the cylinders during the bonding.

So, we take the cloth and cut it into long 12 mm wide strips. Then these strips are cut to the size of the diameter of the tube with an overlap of about 1-1.5 cm., Pull it tightly over the tube (so it won’t wiggle) and glue the pieces right on the tube with standard PVA.

Next, the task is a little more complicated: we must correctly make a stencil by which the skins themselves will later be cut out. The stencil is shown in the picture on the right under the tube. Here’s how it’s done: we take a piece of skin that is the same width as the fabric and 1 cm longer. Apply over the glued fabric and mark the place where the junction of the two ends of the skins should be.

After that, do the necessary geometric steps: from the point of proper junction run a line across the skin, from the other end of the skin, at the same distance do the same, and then spend in the resulting rectangles diagonals and cut off pieces of skin on these diagonals.

Now, when you put your stencil on top of the cloth glued on the tube, you get the exact diagonal connection of the sandpaper ends. Now you have a stencil that you can outline with a pen on the back of the sandpaper.

Budget consumables for the engraver

Some time ago I received a welcome gift. an engraver. Dremel 4000. The box proudly reads “65 tips”. In fact 20 of them turned out to be the discs for cutting plastic, so the variety was not what it seemed. Given totally inhuman pricing policy of this manufacturer and its Russian dealers, it was necessary to look on the Internet. The original accessories with shipping costs were up to snuff with the “go to leroy and buy” option, plus the assortment was frustrating. So it was necessary to look in the direction of China. I found a lot of great stuff there.

Being inspired by Meklon’s post, I decided to share my findings with the HabraSociety. Some of them I’ve already tried, some of them I’m waiting for my turn. Thought for a long time, whether to do links to specific lots on ebay. On the one hand, observed on the hubra allergy to such links. On the other hand. the links are not referral at all, I’m not a seller, and the post with a description of the nozzles, their photos, but no “where to buy” links, seems flawed. Kind of like “I know where they sell the tastiest real sausage, but I won’t tell.”.

Drilling

The kit came with a 3.2 mm collet (and another one that I never used, because there are no bits for it in the kit). And the drill bit. The same 3.2 mm. But t.е. we have a kind of tool for fine work and in the kit drill at 3.2 mm. Too bad it’s not an eight on concrete.

What is the standard in the stores?

Or use a set of wood drill bits for the 3.2mm collet:

The chuck doesn’t have a very good design. As far as I understand the drill is small, the contact area is small, the speed is high and you can hear a “rattle” in the drill. Also, the manufacturer’s website has a bunch of “I screwed the chuck completely in without the drill bit out of curiosity, and it won’t unscrew again” style reviews.

What do the Chinese offer?

Visually there is no rattle, the brass drills great. How many thousands of holes in textolite one drill can make before it wears out. don’t know, haven’t tried it. But if you need to make several (dozens) different small holes, it’s a great option.

I ordered from ebay seller sz_butterfly. he constantly has lots with a fixed price and regularly holds auctions with a low starting price (and not 15 times the shipping cost). The plastic holder box was included.

Engraving

What are the standard ones in the stores?

The cutters. Lots of cutters of different sizes and (kind of) applications. Some number of diamond-coated bits. You can open a catalog or the manufacturer’s website and look there.

All great, if it were not for one but. for 2 pieces.

And what do the Chinese have to offer??

To get started, I ordered a set of all sorts of diamond-powdered drill bits. Just to see what I need. 180 with delivery:

It turned out to be a great thing. You can draw thin (and not only) lines on metal and glass. Surely also for plastic. Something like that:

IMPORTANT. It’s imperative to use respiratory protection when working. I used an ordinary gauze bandage and constantly wiped the product with a wet rag. When working, it produces a lot of very fine dust. I doubt that the lungs will be happy with such a gift.

I liked the spherical shape of the bit a lot in work, because it’s easiest to maintain good accuracy. That’s why I got myself these Diamond Round Ball Burr Bit Sets:

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Just a month ago I had this choice. You either buy the original Dremel consumables for 500-1000 each or you can order them from the Chinese. And about 2-3 weeks ago in leroy (there is one near my office, we regularly go there to look for something tasty) appeared and budget consumables for the carver (for example, mini sets of diamond drill bits). So the point of waiting for delivery has dropped somewhat.

Offtopic: In addition, there are also suddenly appeared and blades to the fact that the English-language internet calls oscillating tool, and we have it called anything, up to the electric tool

I hope this post will help someone try to make something with their own hands. It’s an interesting process.

Offtopic 2: I also had a problem finding metal for work. I needed brass. A lot of factories are ready to sell wonderful strips or sheets of brass. From 5,000. Preferably a legal person. from 10 to 17 hours. As a result, on the second attempt I bought what I needed at the point of reception of non-ferrous metal.

Nozzles for the graver and drilling machines with their own hands

Once again, I return to a question that I have touched on more than once in my posts on the site. We will talk about the nozzles for the engraver and drilling machines. This topic is probably endless, because in addition to a wide variety of accessories that come with the engraver and drilling machine or which can be purchased separately in a tool store, home craftsmen make them with their own hands. And here everyone tends to make what is most necessary for certain jobs. By the way, of the sets that were included in the set of my two electric gravers, numbering several dozen nozzles, I use at most five or six, and the rest are just lying “dead weight”, but in order to be at hand and not get lost, made a simple three-tier self-made stand of wood, like in the top photo. Maybe they will be useful someday, but now I mostly use different self-made sanding accessories, “sharpened” for those tasks, which while working with wood I solve with chisel blades (Profile B-03) and engravers (Caliber and Hammerflex 113-003). Why self-made tools? Because I have not encountered good sanding heads on sale, which allow high-quality processing of concave surfaces and recesses of wooden workpieces with a drill and engraver. Yes, there are many different cutters that can be used to quickly remove a layer of wood on these surfaces, but there is almost nothing to sand them with. Commercially available tools. Sanding drums with replaceable cylinders of sandpaper, burrs and sanding discs are inconvenient, for example, when sanding the recess of the workpiece for a wooden spoon. And sanding with sandpaper by hand is too laborious and tedious process. Here you need a nozzle that is either spherical or oval in shape. over, this bit should have the possibility to quickly and consecutively replace coarse-grained sandpaper by another one with a finer grit. In addition, it is desirable that this bit should be easy to produce and not expensive. After experimenting with all sorts of homemade bits for my engraver and drilling machine, I came up with the following option, which, in my opinion, is most suitable for the tasks mentioned above. Wooden homemade bases for such tools are simple to make.

Types of drills

The variety of devices available on the market boils down to three main types:

  • Technical-purpose borers;
  • micromotors, or engravers for wood carving;
  • mini drill, or compact drill with a flexible drive.

They differ in purpose, size, power, capacity.

Both powerful wood drilling machines and micromotors have two basic components: a high-speed electric motor and a replaceable tool clamped in the chuck.

Technical drilling machines

Devices of this type are equipped with a powerful enough motor to solve a wide range of problems. Structurally, they are divided into two blocks:

  • The drill itself. In the cylindrical body there is an electric motor. On its shaft is fixed collet or removable chuck.
  • Power supply unit, which accommodates a transformer or pulse type voltage converter.
  • Foot switch. Allows you to free your hands for a more accurate grip device.
  • Connecting cables.

Technical wood drilling machine

The advantage of these wood carving drills is the ability to perform various operations on wood:

As a disadvantage, it should be noted the relatively low speeds compared to the woodcarving dremel.

On the market there are models of both domestic and foreign manufacturers. Domestic ones are affordable, but they lack the ability to work for a long time without overheating, especially under high loads. They are well suited for hobbies, for professional use with a significant amount of work it is better to stop at the imported equipment.

Micromotors

Wood carving machines or micromotors are very compact, low power and high speed (up to 30,000 rpm). The nozzles are also attached to the motor shaft.

Limited power does not allow devices to reach high productivity, but low weight and size do not tire your hand, and high speed allows to perform the finest and filigree details of the thread.

Mini drills or compact borrs with flexible drive

This class of devices are battleships in the world of drills. Structurally, they differ in that in place of the chuck they allow to install a nozzle with a flexible drive shaft. So the heavy drive unit with the motor remains on the table (or suspended), and only the collet (or quick-release) clamp with the tool in it remains in the hand of the craftsman.

They are powerful (up to 200 Watt) and have a high RPM (up to 30,000 rpm). rpm). They are equipped with a large variety of cutters and abrasive nozzles and allow a wide range of operations.

The set can also include a telescopic rod for fixing the device in a convenient place for the masters.

A brief overview of the brands

Today it is no problem to find engravers and working tools for their equipment at the domestic market. The variety of freely available equipment and tools allows choosing them according to one’s needs and financial capabilities.

Those masters who are engaged in engraving on wood, metal and other materials at the professional level and already have at their disposal the appropriate equipment, you should pay attention to the working heads, produced under the brand name “Dremel” and “Dexter. High cost of such equipment for the graver is justified by its exceptional reliability and durability. Another important advantage, which distinguishes the cutter, cutting wheel, drill, as well as any other tool of these brands, is the high machining accuracy.

High-quality consumables are purchased by both professionals and home craftsmen who respect their craft

Having stopped the choice on working heads “Dremel” or “Dexter”, keep in mind that one such tool is able to serve on time as much as 10 Chinese-manufactured nozzles. In favor of buying sufficiently expensive, but quality products from well-known manufacturers speaks the fact that in the range of these companies you can find nozzles for various purposes and sizes. So, it can be a variety of cutters for boromachine or engraver, drills of different diameters, disc tools, as well as spheres of any other type, designed to perform work on wood, metal, ceramics, glass.

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Cheap, but decent quality attachments are offered by a domestic manufacturer, the Zubr company. You can buy sets of tools for reasonable that include up to 180 tools of the most popular types, designs, sizes and shapes. Such kits include tools for drilling, cutting discs for a drill or engraver, milling bits, diamond and abrasive-type cutters, and much more.

All nozzles included in the Zubr brand kit are placed in a plastic case for easy storage and carrying to the place where the work is done.

There are two opinions on Chinese-made bits. On the one hand, their quality and reliability are very questionable, but on the other hand, they cost considerably less than branded accessories. A Chinese milling nozzle for the carver, a cutting disc or drill bit will not last long, but even throwing them away, considering their cost, will not be so pitiful. If a professional works with an engraver, even a cheap Chinese cutter will not prevent him to do the job well (although he will have to change such a tool more often).

The Chinese nozzles for a drilling or engraver can be recommended to beginners who can use them to acquire their first skills in this business.

Affordable of Chinese-made tools allow novice engravers to purchase large sets for testing

Types Overview

Special components for the engraving machine are quite diverse in form. Among them there are cutting discs for wood and metal, felt discs with Velcro, brushes. They come in different degrees of hardness and hardness, always designed for specific tasks. Classification into separate categories allows you to allocate separate types to perform work on ceramics, wood, metal, as well as angular, straight models of nozzles for the engraver, their variants with a complex configuration. A detailed description of all replacement parts helps to understand everything.

By function

The main classification of nozzles, produced for miniature engraving machines, subdivides all available options according to their purpose. There is a division into the following categories.

  • For milling. The operation presupposes rather high hardness of the material. In this case, the nozzles should be made in the form of cutters.
  • For polishing. Depending on the texture, pads with varying degrees of roughness are used here. Polishing wheels with felt, sandpaper, leather are the most common. Arbors on which surfaces various materials can be wound may also be used.
  • For polishing. Various types of tips are used here. The sanding pad may look like a rubber cylinder, sanding stone or a wheel of sandpaper. Diamond rings also fall into this category.
  • For finishing. For this purpose, diamond burrs. specially shaped burs used in professional kits. are used. Base of nozzles is made of tool steel with hard coating on top. Such burrs process precious and ornamental stones, metals and alloys for various applications. It’s not a tool for rough turning, it’s about precision in every movement.
  • For cleaning surfaces of dirt, corrosion or scale. This type of nozzles are made as brushes with wire, filament, or textile working surface.
  • Drill bits. To perform this kind of work, the appropriate nozzles are used. Carbide-type drills or steel drills are suitable.

Engraving bits are considered universal. All tip sizes and diameters are available. Milling tips are considered to be professional. They are most often used by specialists in metalworking, jewelry making.

By type of material

According to this feature, the cutters used in conjunction with an engraver are divided into several categories. The following nozzle variants are the most common.

  • Carbide. They have a notched surface to allow for rough treatment of surfaces. Such tools are used to grind workpieces at the initial or intermediate stage. They are the most expensive, the tips are good for tracing, milling over bone and plastic.
  • Diamond tipped. They are made of steel, the working tip has an additional coating. This type of nozzles is considered basic and is widely used when performing operations on the surface of different materials. Diamond plating doesn’t add much to the cost of inexpensive tools, but the quality of the work is unaffected.
  • Holders. They have a steel base to which replaceable discs. felt, sanding, rubber, cutting. are mounted. They are easily adaptable to different materials.
  • With rubber and corundum tips. They are made from a special mix of materials that is both hard and flexible. These elements are used for metalworking.
  • abrasives. Such nozzles have shape of cone, trapezoid, ball, parallelepiped. They are used for working hard materials such as ceramics, glass, stone, various metals. Most often made from a mixture of rubber with other, harder and stronger particles. diamond chips, aluminum oxide (red), silicon carbide (green).
  • Felt discs. Soft burs are used for surface polishing of wood in curvilinear plane. Their shape is varied, as well as their size; the choice depends on the type and configuration of the workpiece. A special wax-based paste or diamond dust is applied to the surface of such a disc.

The classification of engraver bits by type of material allows for a more precise selection based on the characteristics of the surface to be engraved, its hardness, or the stage of the work.

Sanding and felt discs

Here, too, the production is not much different from the first two options. In the same way, draw a circle of 3-5 cm. with a compass.

Only felt is better, probably, cut out with a sharp knife, as it is pretty thick, and I’ve cut all my fingers with scissors. It is better to cut the grinding wheel either with metal scissors or an emery machine with the same cutting wheel. Next, we make holes in the centers of circles, and tighten on both sides of the bolts and nuts.

New angle grinder function. New DIY tool.

Wood and plastic saw blades

First you need to draw a circle 3-5 cm in diameter on a sheet of metal. Using a compass and a pencil. I had some ready made metal circles from a chandelier, but with a big hole in the center. To fit the hole for a small bolt, cut out (or take ready-made if available) two washers to cover the hole on the future saw blade. We make a hole in the center of each washer to fit a bolt, crimp the washers to the hole of the disk on both sides, align it in the center, and tighten it with a bolt and nut.

We make oblique notches around the edge of the disk, 3-4 mm deep and 2 mm apart. You can use.

Plastic cutting disc, do exactly the same, repeating the above procedures, except for sharpening the teeth. Here the notches should be made at right angles, two millimeters deep, and with the same two millimeter pitch.

The teeth should be short and wide. With this blade you can cut plastics of different density, as well as Plexiglas and textolites.

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