How to cut the acrylic bathtub
Valentin VedenskyAnd acrylic bathtub can be cut? Do not cut the stiffeners, when you fill the bathtub from the load may burst, decorative screen can be cut. You can and undercut, you can and cut but it’s better not to click his beak to cut it all we can cut it if you want, then better podklaj a bar to reinforce or set something under the installation Seen as a wretched tiler, cast iron undercut, but certainly acrylic as good luck (except that one but, cast iron he is cast iron, and acrylic are held by the stiffening ribs)
Irina LopatkinaWe can’t afford to do a complete renovation of our bathtub due to the crisis. But we want to insert an acrylic insert into an old cast-iron bathtub. The problem with insertion decreases the size of the bathtub. т.к. The acrylic liner is placed on a special foam; the finished acrylic liner may not be exactly the same size as your bathtub. If you break the technology liner can We did not do. But here’s a question about what to do if after a year, acrylic in the tub began to crumble and bubble. So I would not risk it.
Peter GeraninIt is necessary to cut the acrylic bathtub on the edges, asymmetrical. There is such a thing as a stiffener. you never know what the bathtub will become.
Leo LagunovTell me how to shorten, trim acrylic bathtub rim? Acrylic bathtub can be sawn with an ordinary hacksaw blade for metal. Only after the cut should be cleaned and polished Only then can you keep the aesthetic appearance will be. With a string or a wood burner
Alena EzhovaThe new bathtub. And the enamel is already frayed and became like sandpaper. How to make a glossy surface? This is most likely the result of cleaning the tub with detergents like Pemo Lux. Return the enamel to its previous state is unlikely to work. The new one was 25 years ago? Maybe it should be like this I remember when I was in camp my parents gave me a moldy cheese so we cut it off. What do you wash it with?? If it’s really new, then demand the store to fulfill the warranty.
Alena TerebovaI’ve heard that the bottom of shower stalls cracks after a while. Share your experiences.Which one’s better to install?? Well, if the guys are not taken to the cabin it serves long and well and in general make them out of thin material I do not remember exactly a fiber which is why when buying inspect the bottom of the more ribs the more guys the cabin will hold a crack in those who have not cut nails on their feet
Vadim OkunevDoing repairs in the bathroom. I bought an acrylic bathtub. They’re plastic! Easily sawn off. Well, or the walls to break down and level again. Change the tub or rebuild the walls. With shortening.I do not advise! Acrylic, of course, can be cut with a knife. But, because the edges of the tub are bent down, and when you cut it I would try to change the tub to a smaller size, or redo the bathroom wall. And this way it won’t look marketable
Albert YasaulovIs it possible to cut the corner of an acrylic bathtub by 4 cm? a semicircle without losing the rigidity of the tub and what is better to cut? Wouldn’t it be easier to cut into the wall?? That’s just one of the solutions. And the stiffness will not hurt and the procedure is quick and painless. Bolgarochkochy carefully cut through the wall or tile on 3 cm and that’s it.Anyway, the angle for the With two sides akuratno angle grinder. If you are going to cut the stiffener, of course stiffness will be lost: in fact, the factory calculates the width of a particular stiffener to do this or that length!
Kirill ProskuryakovI bought a bathtub, it does not fit by 3 cm, can it be cut? I bought a specially larger one and I’m very satisfied We built it into the wall but it gives more space in the bathtub. Of course, you can’t break it down! Cut with an angle grinder! Or you can cut a hole in the wall! Better make a groove in the wall Better to exchange Don’t, chisel the wall( Do the exchange. You can. Only the cut edge should be cleaned of scale and painted with auto enamel, not from a spray can.
Daniel SosninIn my bathroom, the bathtub 170 just barely fits on the two places on the wall tiles prevent kpit less bathtub? Maybe grooves to make on the tiles Do not touch the bathroom, it’s better to slightly damage the wall. We also did not fit a sink next to the cabin, so they made a recess in the wall, very well it turned out. Think about the thickness of the wall (depending on how much does not fit Just think about it, and maybe a tile a little bit.just a little bit screwed up.
Anatoly SverdlHow to properly seal the gap between the bathtub and the wall? If forever then do something like a canopy, with a small hole are sold such plastic tape On sale there are ceramic borders, usually white color they can be put on liquid nails, it’s a long time. If no special problems, then the sanitary sealant for a year is enough, then begins to appear fungus, then there are no rules. They caulk in whatever they can. Yes, and the width of the gap depends on what sealing But there is still one rule for all of these rules need to seal it, and for acrylic baths and more plastic materials (silicone)
Lyudmila ZhadnovaHow to properly lay tiles on the wall in the bathroom and what you need? To avoid buying extra tiles, its consumption is determined as follows: measure the area of facing and divide it by the area of one tile. You get the number of pieces, but it must be increased by 10 percent. You will need: a hammer, pliers, trowel, For this you need a master tiler. At http://stroi-sam1.In articles there is an article Laying tiles on the wall. Read on, maybe you’ll learn something.
Vitaly VargasovHow to repair a cast-iron bath? There are now three ways. 1-Armalization.Disadvantages. the most short-lived. The quality of work depends on the skill and integrity of the master. The warranty is usually one year. Although I’m a couple of months ago I repaired the bath Order acrylic liner Copper sledgehammer I painted my usual enamel roller kept for more than a year. The imported special enamel lasted a month (
Vadim BobchikhinWhat do you need to treat gypsum board in the bathroom before laying tiles?? Read at the same time about other types of finish: SP 55-101-2000 Code of practice for the design and construction of Enclosing structures with the application of asphalt boards.8 Finishing surfaces of partitions and suspended ceilings of plasterboard And you can not process So and so will fall off all soon. If you spill water on the floor it will soak into the seams of the tile on the floor at the bottom of the plasterboard wall. The glue has weakened after 5-10 cycles, it’s just glued to the paper.
How did I sawed a bathtub, part. 2. Creation
The fun part began My good friend and part-time private plumber helped me choose the necessary materials and appliances. In place we installed them IMHO it looks mega cool Were installed combinations, each faucet its own valve, Honeywell filters with pressure regulating valves, and REHAU pipes, from some wild space material))))
Plus my wife and I went to the market and bought a towel barT.к. I live on the top floor I had the opportunity to cut the excess pipes))) What they did craftsmen from the housing and utilities)))
At the factory I had the footings of the bathtub milled out, t.к. It was too low.I immediately decided to separate the faucets for the bathtub and sink. On this had to punch through the wall It’s time to try on the bathtub ))
Great fit, had to pepel a little uneven wall, but fits great ))))
So imperceptibly came the time of the walls))) walls I put from foam concrete blocks of thickness 10, with a binding to the walls, floor and ceiling with a cut thin stud T.к. flatness of the capital walls and the angle between them leaves much to be desired, I started to build walls with a corner.
Т.к. bathtub is longer than the previous one, and if I put a wall on the edge of the bathtub, it would reduce my already small corridor I had to saw and trim the blocks so that the edge of the bath was embedded in the wall))
The edge unit turned out to be small and had to attach it with steel brackets, but all went well.
It’s time to make a screen Usually the screen is made with a niche “under the slippers,” which is located in the center and is located a little at an angle to the floor and, like, does not prevent close approach to the bathtub. But I did not do it, because many times I hit my bare fingers on these corners. Very unpleasant ))))
Next on the plan to recreate the plumbing cabinetIt’s easy, plasterboard, aluminum profile, and a knife.
Bought an acrylic bathtub 180 cm. It’s not even 2 cm into the bathtub. Wall sawing is not an option. already laid tiles, and it will not help. My husband and I wondered if we could cut it on the edges ? Who’s done this? ? I have read contradictory opinions on the web, some say you can, some say you cannot. Dear forum members, may be experienced. Can you tell me if it’s okay to do that? ?
Do not dare to cut the edges. The perimeter is stiffened. You will cut the edges. You will break the rigidity of the top. with all that goes with it.
screw through one wall to a depth of 2 cm. the length of the bathtub rim and the height of the stiffener (the side of the bathtub with the widest edge). Unless, of course, you have a concrete partition)
Otherwise we need to think on the spot. with flowing in. gg
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Auger wall. not an option, I repeat. It does not fit along the length of the bathtub, it goes across and not this way or that way. the bathtub should be at least 178. we would take it apart and put it in)) read about it in various forums. I’ll tell you what people cut it and it seems to be okay. the more so that we only dream of shortening it from one side
What makes you think you can’t cut a more or less neatly in the tile ? you still have to put a skirting board. If you don’t want to wall it up, you can cut 2 cm on one side and 1 on the other.
You can cut it if you want. it’s up to you. If symmetry is a concern, you can cut 2 cm from one side and 1 cm from the other.
bathtub. by the way. At installation they twist not only horizontally but also vertically. combine. so to speak.
personally for me ( if you don’t say anything about the embedding) I would cut out the recess in the wall. I put the bathtub in and covered everything with a rim.
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Fan, I do not know how to explain to you. You know, we have a width of the bathroom (after laying the tiles) 179 cm.and the bathroom is not standard, there is also a box in the way. How can we fit a bathtub in there 180 ?It doesn’t go in straight at all, you have to pull it diagonally and then it gets stuck across the room and that’s it. It wouldn’t fit in here. if only to take down one wall, but that’s not in our plans.
Fan, I don’t know how to explain it to you. you understand, we have a bathroom width (after laying the tiles) 179 cm.And the bathroom isn’t standard, there’s a box in the way. How can we fit a 180 cm bathtub in there ?it does not fit in the room in a straight line, you have to pull it diagonally and it ends up getting stuck across the room and that’s it. It won’t fit in here, no matter how much you want it to. If only one wall to demolish, but that’s not in our plans.
Cut the side of the shower tray was not a problem (there was quite a thick layer of fiberglass) stiffness remains.
If I was doing it myself, I would not hesitate to cut a square tube under the cut edge of the tile, firmly against the wall.
As the saying goes kolhoz a voluntary thing.
You once had a rectangular profile under the tray (there’s no point in squaring it). unnecessary consumption of metal ). Another option: cut the end. You could nail the profile to the wall to support the rim and put the tub on top of it. Dear Olga, I do not understand you: you do not have enough 2 cm. that one. and you think. that cutting off 1 or 2 cm. You’ll turn it around in the bathroom ? I doubt it. but. Good luck, though.
And I wouldn’t change the tub. mold the curbs. all sorts of shelves. I myself am changing the 150-170 bathtub.for the same. just the other way around.
Plumbing: heating, water, sewage. installation, assistance in buying, advice. tel 8-962-I76-98-O7. I don’t charge for demand.)
as they say “kolhoz” is voluntary.
A man buys a 170 bathtub and asks what to do with an 8 cm hole in it.
How to shorten properly?
If you do decide to remove a few centimeters from your bathtub, it is worth reading the instructions below:
- Carefully take all measurements and decide exactly how much to cut.This is what the saying “Measure twice, cut once” is all about.
- Cover the surface at the place of the future cut with masking tape. It will not allow cracks and chips to appear, and it is easier to use for marking.
- Carefully and slowly mark the future cut. Draw the cutting line with a felt tip pen or marker pen.
Can it be cut to length??
The bathtub categorically can not be sawed to length. So you are sure to severely compromise the rigidity of the design and the font is sure to break over time. It is better to get out of this situation in another way: still make a chink.
Advantages and disadvantages of acrylic bathtub
Sanitary acrylic, which is used for the production of this product, is a high-tech material. The inserts made of it have:
- Light weight;
- High heat output;
- Great mechanical strength;
- Sound absorption in the water;
- Low cost.
Another big plus: on the acrylic surface bacteria do not multiply. This is a very important quality for sanitary products.
Incorrect handling of this material leads to damage to the surface, it is very easy to scratch or melt, so the care of the product requires compliance with the following rules:
- Do not use abrasive and aggressive cleaning agents;
- Only use a sponge that is soft on all sides for cleaning;
- Dyeing products and chemicals, like hair dye, should be avoided.
Important addition! In order to determine whether or not you can put an acrylic insert in your bathtub, it is necessary to consult with a good specialist. This is due to the fact that these products are not made for all types of containers.
How to restore the surface?
An overview of the materials
Effective restoration of a worn bathtub with pouring acrylic is possible only if the right material is chosen. To date, there are several varieties of such compositions on the market, and in the table below I will briefly characterize those of them that I was able to assess in practice:
“Stacryl is a universal solution, which nevertheless requires skill
|Material||Features of use|
|Stacryl||“Stacryl” or flowing acrylic. a composition that appeared on the market, perhaps, one of the first. Available in white color, but if necessary it can be tinted with pigments (the same “Stacryl” or “Epoxy-51”).|
Retention time. about 60. 70 minutes. Do not increase the initial polymerization period by adding a solvent: the composition immediately liquefies and begins to flow down very quickly to the bottom of the tub, losing covering power and forming a very thin coating.
Time of full polymerization is from 2 to 4 days. After curing, you get a very strong surface (the best indicator of all compounds on the market) with a perfectly smooth texture.
Subjective evaluation: the most difficult material to work with, which does not forgive mistakes to beginners. At the slightest mistake in the preparation or application of “Stacryl” forms bubbles or stains, in addition, very often on the walls of the bath are formed clots of poorly mixed acrylic. Well, it “smells” very strong.
Retention time of fluidity. up to one and a half hours. In the liquid state it has good adhesion to steel, cast iron and acrylic, that is why it practically does not form stains and bubbles.
Full polymerization of the material takes 36 hours. The coating turns out durable and long-lasting, in terms of service life it is only slightly inferior to “Stacryl”.
Supplied in white, but can be tinted with tinting pastes.
No acrid smell, which can also be attributed to the merits.
Based on my own experience and evaluations of colleagues, I can safely recommend this material to those who have not previously performed restoration of bathtubs by pouring method: polymer compound actually performs its own tasks, so we only need to mix it correctly and avoid major errors in the application.
The price depends on the type of composition (for a bath of 1.5 m):
After stirring (homogeneity, by the way, is initially higher than on the two previous products) it can be applied on the cleaned metal or plastic surface. It has very good adhesion, but retains its fluidity and does not harden immediately.
Another important aspect. a significant hiding power. Even a thin layer of poured acrylic effectively masks the irregularities and hides the color heterogeneity of the bathtub.
It has a full polymerization time of 24 hours, after which a thin, strong film is formed on the surface to be treated.
On sale you can also find varieties of coating with antimicrobial effect, as well as black compound “Shungite Acrylic.
In my opinion, another good material, very beginner-friendly.
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Unambiguously decide which acrylic is better to choose for restoration, I would not venture. it all depends on the conditions of work. If you will entrust restoration to professionals, you can buy the more difficult to work with, but more reliable “Stacryl”, but if you plan to work on your own, then buy either “Plastol” or “Lux” from “Ekovanna.
As you can see, the renovation with your own hands the bath can be done using a variety of means.But if the choice of material. it is purely your decision, then directly at the purchase should adhere to these recommendations:
- The first and most important thing is the expiration date. Acrylic formulations degrade over time, and trying to use an expired material can lead to unpredictable consequences. Most often the result is a decrease in adhesion, so the restoration layer quickly begins to fall away from the base.
- The next thing to look at is the color of the hardener. If this material has a rich orange, red or brown hue, then there is a risk that after polymerization, acrylic will “yellow”.
- Tinting. this is a very responsible stage of the work, so if it is important to you that the bath after the reconstruction “tone in tone” coincides with other elements of the finish, trust the tinted mixtures to professionals. If a perfect match in color is not so critical. the work can be done independently.
How To Cut Acrylic Sheet By Hand
Such kits. the base hardener degreaser. are very easy to work with
It is best to tint in the bathroom, because the slightest changes in lighting will affect the shade.
Installing the bath on a homemade frame
Very often there are situations when the purchased model has no support legs or a factory frame. In this case, there is quite a logical question, how to install an acrylic bath in this case and what materials to use. In such cases there are two ways out, buy a universal frame and somehow attach it to your model or create a supporting structure with your own hands. Of course, a competently made individual frame will be much stronger than any factory one, but before you strengthen the acrylic bathtub in this way, you should understand that this activity will require a lot of time, effort and special skills.
The most common option is considered the mounting of acrylic bathtubs on a metal frame of aluminum profile, and to support the bottom using conventional bricks. To construct the structure you will need:
How to install a standard acrylic bath
- Bricks to put under the bottom of the baptismal font;
- aluminum or metal profile for the construction of the supporting structure;
- Cement mortar to fix the brickwork;
- sealant, which will be used to seal the joints;
- self-tapping screws to assemble the frame;
- A trowel and a container for mixing cement mortar.
It is important to remember that working with heavy and sharp objects must be careful, because to make a hole in the acrylic bathtub accidentally falling tool is very easy and the product can be considered spoiled. Take precautions and protect the baptismal font with thick film or thick paper.
Before you properly put an acrylic bath, it is necessary to mark on the wall its future height, based on which the height of the brick pad will be formed. Then we measure the distance from the floor to the specified mowing line and subtract from the received figure the height of the font itself, as a result we get the necessary thickness of the brick base on which the bathtub will be installed.
The best way to install the acrylic bathtub on the wall is to install a metal profile that will serve as a support for the baptismal font. Next, at the level of the bottom edge of the bathtub, you must install a metal profile on dowels around the perimeter of the contact surface of the baptismal font with the wall. This is the profile on which the bathtub will lie with its sides. Then, before placing the acrylic bath, set the brick pad of the proper height under the bottom of the product.
Important. Before you attach acrylic bath by this method, all calculations and must be made in such a way that when you install the font, it clearly laid flat on the sides of a predetermined profile, and the bottom of the bath slightly touched the brickwork under the bottom of her.The fixing of the acrylic bathtub to the wall in this case is made with sealant, which is applied to the profile and simultaneously serves as a sealant against water leakage.
At this point, the creation of the frame can be considered complete, but you can make a protective front screen of the same metal profile in the front part. This screen will help close the insides and provide additional strength to the outer side, as well as allow you to create a hatch for maintenance or repair trap. Now you know how to install acrylic bathtub on a self-made frame, but the presence of empty space under the font will increase the noise from falling water, and there is a need for additional noise insulation.
Features of the coating
Note: Polymethylmethacrylate is produced in two ways: by molding and extrusion. The material, obtained by extrusion method, is less durable, its sheets, due to technological peculiarities of production, are thinner, and its resistance to chemical influences is lower. But production is cheaper. For sanitary polymethylmethacrylate use the material produced by both methods, and as a consequence, bathtubs made of extruded acrylic are cheaper. Another peculiarity. cast acrylic is more rigid and less formable. That’s why extruded plastic is used to make fancy-shaped bathtubs.
What acrylic bathtubs are afraid of. a lot of things:
- High temperatures;
- Poured into the acrylic bath boiling water causes its deformation, accidentally dropped cigarette can melt a hole;
- Mechanical scratches;
- Clawed pets should not be washed in acrylic tubs. You should not use the bath and as a basin for washing clothes: the surface can be scratched by metal parts on clothing, and washing products can be dangerous for acrylic;
- Exposure to certain chemicals and compounds;
Acrylic hazards include:
- Dichloroethane, found in solvents for plastics and in aerosol insecticides;
- chloroform. used in the pharmaceutical industry, for making dyes, pesticides;
- methylene chloride. is a component of nail polish and used in the production of instant coffee;
- Butanol alcohol. used in paint products and solvents;
- Methanol alcohol. used as solvents;
- Ethanol alcohol. well, everything is clear here: medical alcohol, alcohol of all kinds, as well as kvass, kefir, koumiss, paste and cosmetics, including shampoos and toothpastes.
Important! This is just a small list of chemicals that are quite common in the home. And can damage the delicate surface of the bath, inadvertently spilled on it, or used in an attempt to clean the surface from dirt. Carefully read the composition of household cleaners, and better. use special care products for cleaning acrylic bathtubs.
The scourge of acrylic bathtubs. yellow stains left by dripping water from the faucet. That’s rust. How to take care of an acrylic bathtub, so that nasty yellow stains do not spoil the snow-white shapely sides? It is very difficult to fight it on the surface of an acrylic bathtub, which cannot be cleaned mechanically. Preventive measures are better: water filters that trap iron, and faucets that don’t leak.
If you have hard water in your area, your acrylic bathtub will face yet another disaster: limescale deposits, and you will have to choose another acrylic bath care product that can cope with lime deposits on the walls of the acrylic tub.
As mentioned above, the surface of the acrylic bathtub is very easy to scratch. There are large scratches and microscopic scratches that are not visible to the eye. But the glossy shine of the acrylic bathtub surface, which was so appealing when you bought it, will disappear very quickly. And micro-scratches are filled with dirt. But here’s the good news: the acrylic surface can be restored quite easily. True, there is a bad thing: it applies only to expensive bathtubs made of cast acrylic.
Can it be trimmed to length?? The bathtub absolutely cannot be cut to length. So you are sure to severely compromise the rigidity of the structure and the font is sure to break over time. Better to get out of this situation in another way: make a grommet after all.
You can, of course, just break it with a sledgehammer, but it is fraught with the scattering of small and sharp pieces in different directions. It is better to cut with an angle grinder (angle grinder), and you need a large angle grinder with discs (circles) 180-t, even better 230-mm. It is too problematic to cut cast iron bathtub with a 125 mm disc, though you can do it with a disc, it will use more discs.