Air filter for compressor with your own hands

Design and principle of operation

The design of a standard vortex-type moisture separator for pneumatic systems is shown in the illustration below.

This assembly consists of the following elements.

  • Case. Attaches to the air line and serves as the basis for the entire moisture separator.
  • Beaker. Forms an internal cavity in which the deflector (3), filter (4), damper (5), plug (7) and impeller (8) are placed.

The principle of operation of the moisture separator is quite simple. After compressed air enters the housing (1), it moves toward the impeller (8). Once on the impeller that has guide vanes, the air is swirled. Under the action of centrifugal force all airborne particles move to the walls of the cup (2) where they condense and roll down. A slide valve (5) is provided to separate the calm zone where the contaminants are located (6). Next, the air stream enters the deflector (3) with the filter (4) installed, which retains small solid particles of dirt. Accumulated contaminants are removed through the plug (7) mounted on the bottom of the cup.

Lubrication of the scooter air filter

Then, it needs to be lubricated. The manuals for older scooters recommend using motor or gear oil for impregnation, but the disadvantage of this approach is that such oil is quite fluid and after some time it collects in the bottom of the filter. And the air goes through the upper section. The thicker the oil, the more suitable it is for impregnation.

Special impregnations for the filters that are sold as sprays, contain the grease and thinner, which after applying the grease evaporates within 15 minutes. Allow these fifteen minutes before installing to give the volatile components time to evaporate. Since this grease does not penetrate deep into the filter, it retains dust worse. And last on the list are the specialized liquid oils, which are sold in regular non-pressurized bottles. All professional oils are dyed in bright colors to give an idea of the filter’s coloring and the uniformity of the impregnation. Liqui Moly Racing Luft-Filter-Oil is blue in particular, but also comes in red and green.

It is not necessary to dip the filter in the grease completely. we apply oil little by little, kneading the filter in our hands, to speed up oil penetration through all volume of the filter. Add oil to the empty areas. There is no need to get perfect coverage of the filter by all means, you will most likely get it only by over-impregnation, which is not good either. As an option. we take a cellophane bag and pour into it the necessary amount of oil (approximately 3-5 caps) put the filter in a roll, tie the bag and, squeezing it with massaging movements, distribute the lubricant on the surface. with a little bit of skill is obtained instantly and correctly, the filter is ready for use. Again it is necessary to specifically lubricate the places of contact of the foam rubber with the air filter body to ensure air-tightness.

For long trips it is necessary to have a set with several filters that are already impregnated (they do not take much space). And if servicing, all loose ones at the same time.

Advantage and importance of application

Moisture in the air is almost always detrimental to both the equipment and the processes that are carried out with it. First of all, the compressor itself suffers, inside which steam can partially turn into condensate, i.e. already liquid water. Water is known to promote the corrosion process.

The same can be said about all kinds of unclosed pneumatic systems. for example, in trucks where the compressor periodically pumps in air taken from the outside.

If the compressor is used for painting the car, in the presence of moisture in the air, the coating will be of lower quality (so-called craters are formed), and the body of the vehicle can corrode.

Applying a moisture separator, it is possible to significantly dry the air coming into the compressor, and thus avoid all these phenomena.

If you want to save on heating, put an accumulator tank. Accumulator tank in the heating system. advantages and disadvantages.

On the peculiarities of the assembly and installation of the chimney for the fireplace read here.

Step-by-step instructions for making a biomass fireplace are presented in this topic.

Improving of Chinese two-cylinder compressor (coaxial piston compressor, 220 V, 2,2 kW)

Hereinafter, I emphasize the real technical characteristics rather than the brand or nameplate data: Chinese low-power oil compressors are no more than ten kinds, produced by several factories, but imported under dozens of brands, which creates the illusion of price and quality diversity. But it is all the same, differing only in sticker and color of the case. The basic principle for small compressors is: 1. Electric motor power in kW.2. Derived from power. The WHOLE output in l/min is almost never listed in the data sheet, just for the sake of marketing platitude. They write the capacity by input, which “like more” in 1.5-1.6 times. Meanwhile, on any pneumatic tool is shown the consumption of compressed air air! By the way, even in case of output capacity it is usually mercilessly overestimated by 10-30%. It looks prettier this way, and competitors are not ashamed of it either. 3. Type of drive (coaxial or belt drive).4. Receiver Volume.5. Weight and dimensions. If to take this simple classification into consideration all variety of offers in the market will disintegrate literally into five or seven varieties and the most mass will be solutions based on the coaxial drive (as the cheapest), power of 1.5-2.2 kW (more powerful single-phase Chinese do not produce), the real capacity of 150-250 l / min. First, the used equipment market (only used equipment was considered, t.к. use extremely rare) tossed a nearly new Chinese compressor “Fiac GM 25-300” 1.85 kW with an output capacity of about 170-180 l/min, but this option was quickly resold, t.к. was a little weak. almost any tool forced it to work in continuous mode, but this also did not save from the rapid drop in pressure in the receiver. This type looks like this:

Continuing to torment the internet, my nets brought out a new catch from Avito. something called “AWELCO 5030V, 2.2 kW, 50 liters, 400 l/min, little used.Its possible hypostases:

Mine looked most like the blue Remesa in the center, only without the protective spiral on the tube from the heads to the receiver.

Upon inspection, the specimen was found to be alive, with a single and very typical malfunction: one of the plastic air filters on the inlet was broken and unclean air was flowing directly into one head. The general disrepair of the unit I bought, led me to take it apart for two purposes: “just to look” and “is everything intact”?”. After disassembly revealed several typical flaws of “narrow-eyed” production:. the motor rotor is not balanced, no counterweight on the crank jaw. hence the strongest vibrations.- Fit tightness of the bearings (pos. 40,46) on the shaft was such that the front one was just “going over” the balls and the outer ring was rotating in the cover because of that. ground the shaft.- Amazingly, there wasn’t even a gram of grease in these bearings! Totally dry. Just replaced them with the appropriate domestic type “2RS”. sealed with two plastic sheet metal wear rings.- the shaft shoulder under the crankcase-motor oil seal (pos. 47) it was ground very badly, that’s why the stuffing box has “eaten away” the edge and started to leak. I had to polish the girdle.- The gland itself was forced to be replaced with some kind of regular gland (can’t remember the exact dimensions now. It seems that the Chinese was Dnar = 37 mm, and we sold only Dnar = 35 mm), for this I had to order the adapter ring from the turners.- The most surprising thing was in the bombed out terminal box: they used car-type stab connectors there:

Only the sockets for the thick knives, but the knives themselves. thin! And to keep them from falling out, the blades were just bent into a “U” shape! (long stumped looking at this “rationalization”). Just replaced everything “similar” with “intended”.- One of the blade valves in the head was chipped at the edge, so I bought a replacement for 400/piece (mid 2014).).- the “copper” tubes coming out of the heads and the tube from the manifold to the receiver check valve. Actually, it’s aluminum, painted to look like copper. What’s even funnier is that the brass manifold they’re screwed to. It’s “brass” too. Т.е. aluminum, but painted brass!

Other than that, no notes on the mechanics. primitive and seemingly reliable. Of course, there are no liners in the crankshaft. I was also surprised by the left threaded bolt on the connecting rod to the crank (pos. 5). apparently to prevent self-turning. Of the good stuff. In testing the purchase of pump showed output 235 l / min., which for a used 2.2kW model is not bad. Numerous “field experiments” say that it is impossible to squeeze more than 250-260 l/min out of this 2-cylinder construction (some resellers write both 290 and 310 l/min)!).

Improvements made such:. Instead of plastic-fiber air filters I put usual oil filters from my car (I had MANN W 68/1 at hand, but even Zhigulyov filters are ok). Unfortunately, it’s not easy to do without turning: the threads in the heads. The usual 1/2″ pipe threads, but the filters have a different standard. 3/4″-16UNF (curiously, because of the “grimace” of the inch threading system, the 3/4″-16UNF thread less in diameter than a 1/2″ pipe thread). As a result, adapters were made from Toyota threaded fittings (thread source 3/4 “-16UNF, the same fittings “Zhiguli”) and brass sanitary fittings (pipe 1/2″): on the home lathe were turned all parts, and then soldered together plumbing solder paste and soft solder.

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Later an idea came to my head, how to do without a lathe: you can strip the nipple on one side and abundantly solder soft solder, and then cut a pipe thread of 1/2″ on the solder. and that would make for a very short adapter. The temperature of the heads doesn’t even reach 150 C, so it won’t fall out from the heat. The only thing that confuses me about this idea. The most powerful vibration load on the heads. you’re probably going to have to refinish the threads periodically.

The left side. mentioned contraption from Toyota 0404-19002 (you can probably use a similar Zhigulyov), nravaya. cut brass sanitary fitting.

Why oil filters were used for air filtration?B-1x, they are much easier to handle because of the cartridge design.B-2x, they are purely mechanically stronger. no longer as easy to break as the plastic.B-3x, their degree of filtration in 3. 4 times better than airborne: 10. 15 microns vs. 30 microns. 40 µm.B-4x you can easily vary the price and performance of the solution: If “small” filters, like MANN W 68/1 seem insufficient (although they are already many times over for such a small compressor), you can put the next size W 610/1, and if even that does not suit you. then at least W 811/81. And you can buy Zhigulov ones right away. And that would be just superbudget.

What happens when there are problems with the filters. shown in this video and in this.

Updated 12.2016:Came across an extremely original and elegant filter solution. I applaud the author for his ingenuity!

Since I have a stupid fan shroud, it doesn’t cool anything. well, unless the engine is slightly. And the compressor heads get very hot. To cool them, I made a kolhoz of two 125mm duct fans for ventilation systems, and two pieces of 125mm plastic ventilation pipe. as a mount and a guide apparatus. Well, and a common switch is attached to the fans to operate them separately. Fans were put in these pieces of pipe (they were hooked up with a textile scotch like they use in American action movies to bind hostages 🙂 ) and pipes were attached by wires to the compressor, so that each pipe could blow on its compressor head. Their switch is connected to the network (directly to the terminals of pressure switch), turned on once and the fans are working constantly and independently of the compressor. to cool the heads during downtime, too. The result was such a reduction in temperature of the heads that even continuous operation of the compressor became possible! The heads heat up to 80 C max, and without blowing the. could have easily made it to 120! The engine itself even with continuous work did not heat up to more than 60.

For quick and convenient oil changes in the crankcase I did the following: during reassembly I drilled and reamed a hole in the bottom of the crankcase, and then installed a threaded rivet in it (http://www.zaklepka.ru/z-rez/75/. see. picture and video below, and this one) on sealant.

Then I put a plug bolt in it, also with sealant. everything! No more unscrewing the crankcase cover bolts, “catching” the gasket and oil flow. as convenient as in the car.

I also threw a rare-earth magnet inside the crankcase. to collect on itself magnetic products of wear of crankshaft and cylinder block. How’s that? did not only put in, but also made “anchor-plug” for it from the countersunk head screw, screwed into the drilled hole in the crankcase.(you can see the nut on this screw in the photo above. a little farther away from the threaded rivet)

A few more notes on disassembly-assembly and selection. 1. the crankcase cover is sealed with a complex shaped rubber gasket (pos. 3). If you have disassembled the compressor and reassembly is delayed for any reason. put it in any machine oil. I neglected this and after six months the gasket had shrunk so much that assembly with it became impossible. And then I did all sorts of things with it. Soaked in oil and boiled in oil in the kitchen pot (to please my wife 🙂 ). nothing helped, I had to throw it out. And I couldn’t get a new one either. and i had to assemble the crankcase using automobile silicone sealant applied in several layers with intermediate drying (it shrinks while drying and one thick layer at a time would give a leak in the future). 2. The second problem, directly related to this gasket (or rather the lack of it). is that it, being made in the form of a vertical membrane, divides crankcase cavities into “working”, where oil is constantly whipped by connecting rod petals into an oil mist for lubrication of the CCG and CCG; and into “filling”, where the oil is poured and through which the crankcase ventilation is led via a ball-type breather plug. It turns out that if the diaphragm gasket is removed and both cavities are combined into one “working” cavity, there will be large losses of “whipped” oil through the breather. the crankcase is too small to rely on the inertia of the air in the short breather. To prevent this I had to lengthen the “filler neck” with an extension from a piece of copper plumbing pipe D15 mm, mounted on the crankcase fill hole from inside and resting on the level gauge boss. After that, the length of the tube is summed up with the length of the breather, and the air oscillations will be in the tube, not in the breather. On the extension piece to fix it in the hole just cut a thread (seems to be 1/2″ pipe). for lack of detail I do not remember), and screwed it into the crankcase hole from the inside: it turns out that a tube is screwed into it from the inside, and from the outside. plug and breather tube. 3. IMPORTANT! On the crank pos. 2 there is a small inconspicuous bolt with a left threaded pos. 5, the purpose of which. use a washer to hold the connecting rods on the crank pin. So, once came across a review of a similar compressor in which this bolt unscrewed and fell out. and the connecting rods, given freedom, arranged a complete “Stalingrad” in the crankcase, punching the crankcase and breaking themselves! Let me tell you right away that the Chinese spare parts policy in this case is simple. Compressor assembly goes to the trash and the owner. The store for a new. You do not want to buy a compressor twice. After degreasing, tighten this bolt on the blue thread locker.4. These compressors have modifications with one condenser that acts as both starting and working condenser (I was so “lucky”), and modifications with two. The starting condenser is connected for startup, and then the compressor works only with the working condenser. If there’s a way to find out. buy one with two: it is much easier to start on a “weak grid” (a grid with a large internal resistance that gives a large voltage drop when starting), such as in garages, cottages, etc.п. I with mine at the moment of the first start after a long idle time is very suffering. There is a plan to retrofit the single-condenser version with a second condenser and timer circuit, but this is an extra hassle, which would be better to avoid.5. Do not overfill crankcase with oil! Fill higher than the red point of the middle of the level gauge. this ensures that everything near the compressor is covered with atomized oil.6. Air treatment must be 🙂 I have, but I can not prove it. in the photo above there is a bundle of hose on the filter, completely covering it.

Some information about air treatment (I worked five years in the firm, which deals with industrial pneumatics, so I am entitled to give it 🙂 ): In compressed air from compressors, sources of problems are water condensate from compressed air, oil mist from compression chambers, and abrasive dust from the air. especially if there is something wrong with the air filters on the heads. The dangers of water. in intensive corrosion of metals in the pipeline, receiver (and the consequent distribution of abrasive rust everywhere), deterioration of quality of painting, frosting of the pipeline in winter. Waste compressor oil after the compression chamber is dangerous because it accelerates the polymerization process at high temperature and humidity. it leads to its thickening and even drying out (as the olive, only in that accelerating siccatives are added during the manufacture, so that polymerization would proceed under normal conditions). Clogs, soaks up all surfaces of the pipeline and tools, stains everything and can freeze moving parts and plug up small holes. Deteriorates quality of paintwork. There is no need to explain the harm of dust. and it is multiplied by oil and water.

To get rid of these troubles, combined filters and moisture separators are used (the common filtration grades are 40, 15, 5, 1 and 0,01 micron) in which the function of filtering dust and partially oil is performed by a filter cartridge made of porous material and separation of moisture is done by a stationary “turbine” at the input which spirals the passing air resulting in centrifugation of water droplets on the walls of the cup (basically a typical cyclone).

A filter separator (“filter”). is a complete air-handling unit, and a filter cartridge. its ingredient. It is possible to insert different (within certain limits) cartridges into the same filter to achieve the desired degree of filtration.

A filter with a filter cartridge that gets rid of dust and oil (and oil is the hardest thing to get rid of), with the quality for a perfectly flawless painting. 1 micron. The trouble is that you have to put another filter in front of it (exactly as a separate device, I don’t know the dual ones). any filter for 40, 25 or 5 microns, otherwise the “micron” will be instantly clogged with “garbage”, and for filter cartridges are inversely proportional to the fineness of their sifting. If you do not have such high requirements, you can put a single filter for 40, 25 or 5 microns. whatever you can buy or get, it makes no difference. The “fine” Camozzi N208-F00 and N108-F00 “five micron” cartridges are the best. Festo LF-1/8-D-5M-MICRO and SMC AF20-F01. Note. They all have connecting threads G1/8″ (1/8″ cylindrical pipe threads), but it is better to buy fittings with R1/8″ (tapered pipe threads). Always try to use fittings with tapered R threads.к. they seal tightly without any undercoating or sealant on any threads. whether cylindrical or conical. “But there is one nuance. ” 🙂 If you do not buy a filter, but “borrowed” somewhere in the production. you have to take the smallest size! Ideal filter size for such small compressors. is when you have four or five of them in the palm of a man’s hand. The fact that the moisture separation “turbine” does not work properly at the lowest speeds (the flow does not untwist to a speed sufficient to centrifuge droplets), therefore, for filters indicate a range of flow “from. to. ” in which the passport air purity is ensured. If you put a big industrial one, like “with reserve”. water will be separated worse than it should be, so here “more” does not mean “better”. Don’t be afraid to put “too small”. these simply do not exist; and the smallest of the industrial ones will be just right. Maintenance of filters consists of two operations: firstly you need to watch the level of a condensate in a bulb (for this purpose it is made transparent or with windows) and periodically to drain an emulsion by turning “the dumpster” (on the photo above it is a dark blue nut on a bulb bottom); secondly. change the filter cartridge as it gets dirty. You don’t have to think much about the second operation. chuck will survive more than one such compressor.

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Among manufacturers of industrial pneumatics, easily available in Russia, it is worth to single out three companies: “Camozzi” (“Camozzi”, Italy), “Festo” (“Festo”, Germany. their filter in the photo above), “SMC” (“S.M.C.”, Japan). Any product of these companies is of excellent quality (and price), and can be installed without hesitation. Of these three giants, Camozzi is usually the cheaper. due to the nature of competition and market positioning. Collet quick disconnect couplings from this company can be singled out. on average, they are better and cheaper than competitors. Chinese “noname” products do not have any guaranteed parameters, so they are not used in any industry, and I would not advise them either.

Lubrication (lubrication of pneumatic tools with oil atomized in compressed air). In my opinion, this is simple. Oil dispenser (lubricator) should be put on the tool itself, like this (I did not use it myself, I like the concept):

because if you put it right after the filter, as they usually do in the industry, there will be restrictions: the distance from the oil gun to the consumer should not exceed 7.5 meters, otherwise the atomized oil will uselessly settle on the surface of the hose without reaching the lubricated tool, and all hoses from this point will be divided into “oil” and “clean”, and woe to whoever thinks to paint something with “oil” or blow out “from water”. with a loaded lubricator instead of oil! the oil flow rate is adjusted by “visual-experimental”: take a piece of light cardboard, blow on it from a charged lubricator. If there are visible droplets. plenty of oil, let’s tighten the screw and achieve drip-free uniform “coloring” of the cardboard. Lubricating oils for lubricators are prescribed “special for pneumatic systems” (and they have nothing to do with compressor!), but they can be easily replaced with industrial I-40A, I-50A and, I think, up to any engine oil or “Dexron”. because there is nothing magic about special oils, they are “empty” (no additive) mineral oils.

And a little bit about the oils for the reciprocating compressor. Evgeny Travnikov in his video “DIC Theory: Office Equipment (Part 2) Compressor” said that you can pour regular motor oil instead of “special compressor” oil, but did not explain in detail. why. So in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев I tried to tell you what’s what: “. I also recently purchased a compressor, and I’m thinking of pouring engine oil 5w50. In the manual, the manufacturer writes that kinematic viscosity should be close to compressor oils. But it seems to me that at high temperatures the kinematic viscosity of the oil, if more is better. The oil isn’t that thin. Is it true, or not to go into that stuff and just pour the synthetic 5w50?- For compressor oils, the viscosity starts with ISO 46 and 68, but it is measured quite differently: these oils do not have additives, thickeners, which modify viscosity, so the viscosity of motor oil 5W-40 at 100C.

16 cSt, which equals “compressor” ISO as much as 150! But the viscosity of the latter is normalized at 40 C. that’s the ISO nominal viscosity. it is assumed that compressor oil is not heating up as much as in internal combustion engines (by the way: compressor oils for piston compressors start from ISO 100 and higher; 46.68. is for screw compressors). That effect with reduced cylinder heating that Eugene got is due to the fact that some compressor oils go “empty”. without any additives at all (I seriously doubt that the Chinese put something decent in the “Belorussian” Remezes). Hence the friction losses, extra heat, and increased wear. In this case, as well as if there is no confidence in the “Special Compressor Oil for Compressors Only” being purchased. It is better to use any motor. They have superfluous additives for the compressor, for example, detergents and dispersants, but it is guaranteed to have a friction modifier, and for that alone they can be forgiven. And additional antifriction additives. Compressor Head. It is so primitive that it is very difficult to ruin it, so you can pour even “SMT”, even “Forum”, “Rimet”, “Suprotek”, “VMP”, or whatever else they produce. It won’t do any harm, but it may help.”

Air compressor from parts of a refrigerator and a fire extinguisher

This unit is practically silent. Consider the scheme of future construction and make a list of necessary parts.

1 tube for filling the oil; 2 starting relay; 3 compressor; 4 copper tubes; 5 hoses; 6 diesel filter; 7 gasoline filter; 8 air inlet; 9 pressure switch; 10 cross; 11 safety valve; 12 tee; 13 receiver from the fire extinguisher; 14 pressure reducer with a manometer; 15 moisture trap; 16 pneumatic socket

Necessary details, materials and tools

As the basic elements are taken: a motor-compressor from a refrigerator (preferably made in the USSR) and a cylinder of fire extinguisher, which will be used as a receiver. If they are not available, the compressor from a dead refrigerator can be found in repair shops or at metal recycling points. Fire extinguisher can be purchased at a secondary market or involve friends who may have a decommissioned OCP, OVP, OU at work on 10 liters. Fire extinguisher cylinder must be safely emptied.

  • Pressure gauge (like for a pump, water heater);
  • diesel filter;
  • filter for the gasoline engine;
  • pressure switch;
  • electric toggle switch;
  • Pressure regulator (reducer) with a manometer;
  • reinforced hose;
  • water taps, tees, adapters, fittings clamps, hardware;
  • materials to make the frame metal or wood furniture wheels
  • safety valve (to release excess pressure);
  • wall inlet with self locking (for connection e.g. to the airbrush).

In addition, you will need tools: hacksaw, wrench, syringe, as well as FUM, anti-rust, synthetic motor oil, paint or enamel for metal.

Assembly steps

Prior to assembly, you must prepare the compressor motor and the cylinder of the fire extinguisher.

Motor-compressor preparation

three tubes come out of the motor-compressor, two of which are open (air inlet and outlet), and the third, with a sealed end for oil change. To find the air inlet and outlet, you need to briefly energize the compressor and mark the appropriate marks on the tubes.

Next, you need to carefully saw or cut off the soldered end, making sure that the copper filings do not fall inside the tube. Then drain the oil inside and add motor oil, synthetic or semi-synthetic, using a syringe. You can seal the tube by choosing a screw of suitable diameter, which should be wrapped with FUM tape and screwed into the hole. Sealant may be applied over the joint. If necessary paint the surface with enamel.

Preliminary work on the reservoir

With an empty extinguisher cylinder it is necessary to remove the stopping and starting valve (SSV). Clean the outside of the container of rust and dirt, and inside pour and hold the rust preventer for as long as indicated on the label of the product. Let it dry and screw on the cover with the hole from the safety valve. In the hole screw the adapter (if necessary) and mount the cross.

On the top socket mount the pressure switch, on one side screw a tee and connect the manometer, on the other side mount a safety valve or valve to bleed air manually (option). Where it is required we use adapters. If necessary paint the cylinder.

Assembling the circuit

on the assembled frame (for example, a solid board on wheels or a construction of robust angles, pipes) mount the cylinder and the motor-compressor, laying a rubber gasket on it or nearby. To the inlet air pipe of the compressor connect firstly petrol and then diesel filter. It is necessary to do it if the compressor is intended for airbrush work in order to avoid the slightest air pollution. And since the filter on the diesel is finer, it is installed after the gasoline filter. If the copper tubes lost their shape during disassembly, it is necessary to flatten them.

Connection of power supply is made through a rocker switch, pressure switch and a starter relay. Protect all connections with the tape or heat shrink. It is important to install the starting relay in the correct position by the arrow on its cover, otherwise the device will not work properly.

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1 tumbler; 2 pressure switch; 3 compressor starting relay; 4 relay position arrow; 5 relay connection to compressor windings; 6 compressor

Connect air outlet pipe from compressor through adapter to receiver inlet. After the manometer mount reducer with remote moisture trap, and after it a hose with self-locking pneumatic wall inlet.

The end result is aesthetically pleasing and performs well with the proper care.

Compressor oil separator. a system for removing oil from gas

Compressor units of manifold design, designed to work with various media, are widely used in practice. Compressors provide the necessary process conditions for productive use of the gas medium. For example, compressed air is actively used by car service centers, factories, and small enterprises. Even in the home there is a need for compressed air. But compressor units have one serious drawback. the loss of oil from the system. The compressor oil separator is therefore an essential element in the design of such machines. Consider this device.

Compressor oil separator. general information on equipment

The compressor is seen as a system that operates on the principles of mechanical movement. Therefore, the use of lubricant for the moving parts of the compressor unit is a matter of course.

Screw compressor: 1. electric motor; 2, 7, 8. bearings; 3. slave rotor; 4. compressor body; 5. shaft; 6. gland; 9, 11. balance piston; 10. driving rotor

Compressor oil is traditionally used as lubricant. Compressor oil is applied to the mechanical parts and moving parts to lubricate the machine’s moving parts.

Thus the compressor can be maintained over the long term and the service life of the mechanical parts of the system is considerably prolonged.

However, the compressor oil used is inevitably mixed with the operating gas medium. The oil content in the same compressed air is marked at a high level.

The operating gas medium compressed by a compressor actually becomes unusable. over, mixtures of air and oil in certain concentrations are explosive.

In practice, a variety of system designs are employed to clean the compressed gas mixture. Each design differs in technical parameters and efficiency

That’s why most air compressor designs are equipped with oil separators by default. And those that are not, must be equipped with an oil separator.

Model number:TXF003 Desiccant filter-4500PSI pcp air compressor filter.

Types of compressor oil separators

Compressor oil separators are of the following design based on their operating principle

There are also oil separators for compressors in a combined design, which combines several oil separation systems.

Cyclone oil separator

This type of oil separation system uses the principle of centrifugal rotational force. The device is a vessel and has a spiral plate element inside.

Cyclone design and cleaning principle for this type of device: 1. inlet filter; 2. vent wall; 3. neck; 4. oil separator; 5. cyclone separator

When the mixture of gas and oil compressed by the compressor enters the cyclone oil separator, an eddy current is created due to the spiral-shaped plates which are the elements of the device.

Under the influence of cyclone vortex, oil, which has a high specific weight relative to gas, is separated and deposited on the vessel wall and then flows into its lower area.

The gas cleared of oil flows out of the separator through the upper nozzle. Cyclone units cleaning efficiency up to 80%.

Compressor oil strainer

The simplest, in terms of mechanical design for a compressor, is the mesh oil separator. The device cleans the gas medium from oil accumulation by filtering the flow with a fine mesh.

The simplest system of separation and purification. grid. In essence, it is a simple filter with a coarse separation efficiency that is not very high

The degree of separation depends on the density of the mesh. But too high a density reduces the gas throughput capacity of the mesh.

The separation effect is achieved again by the higher specific gravity of the compressor oil. The mixture of gas and oil meets the strainer on its way and changes direction and speed. As a result, heavy oil particles are trapped, and the lighter gaseous medium keeps on moving.

However, mesh separators have a relatively low cleaning efficiency (less than 50%). Therefore, this type of compressor separators are referred to as coarse gas filters.

Barbotage oil separators

Barbotic type oil separators provide a finer degree of purification of oil from air or other gases.

Their operating principle is based on advancing a compressed gas mixture through a liquid barrier. Purification efficiency can reach 80-90%.

A. gas inlet; B. gas outlet; C. water outlet; D. oil outlet; 1. oil catcher; 2. drift eliminator (demister); 3. vortex restrictor

However, the technological scheme with barbotage oil separators must have additionally a system of separating oil from liquid.

This results in the fact that barbotage oil separators are structurally rather complicated devices and require an appropriate technological approach.

Inertial separator

Gravity oil separators, cyclone filters, are also called inertial oil cleaning systems. The operating principle of such devices somewhat resembles the cyclone unit.

The apparatus consists of a vessel, inside which there is a structure resembling a meat grinder screw. Gas-oil mixture passes from the upper to the lower area of the vessel, changing the direction of motion according to the screw track.

Making a compressor for the aquarium with their own hands

Such devices are quite popular among consumers. But we should say at once. there is almost no point in such work. The cost of such equipment on the Russian market is minimal, but it can take a lot of time. In addition, some parts still have to be purchased. So it is worth first thinking whether to start such a job?

Compressor for the aquarium. a necessary thing

Advice! Before you start making your own hands whatever the device, it is necessary to calculate whether the benefits of such work, “whether the game is worth it”.

Filter Wester 816-002 10 atm, 1/4F

For good spraying paint gun needs a lot of clean air. at least 200-400 liters per minute. Modern compressors are able to produce the required pressure, satisfying these needs. But microparticles of atmospheric dirt, moisture will not allow quality painting of metal parts of machines.

On the rescue comes an excellent embodiment of engineering. the filter on the compressor for painting cars Wester 816-002. The device effectively cleans compressed air from mineral oils, water droplets, suspended particles. Not only does it show the working pressure but also lets you make adjustments as needed.

In addition to the air filter and reducer with built-in manometer, the package includes a separator and equipment for liquid lubricant. lubricator.

Brand Wester
Product type Filter, pressure reducer and lubricator
Handmade Metal
Connection 1/4 inch-1/4 inch
Maximum working pressure 10 atm

Making with our own hands

Makeshift water separator consisting of an old or used propane bottle, nozzle and tubing. The workpiece for the housing is mounted in a vertical position. It is necessary to weld a fitting to the upper part for air inlet. Experts recommend moving it closer to the edge of the cylinder. Next, you need to make an inlet spigot, for which you can use a pipe.

For the drainage of moisture, make a hole equipped with a valve. It must be placed at the bottom of the structure. At this stage during the manufacture of the moisture separator it is necessary to think through, perform calculations and make the filler. Wood chips are used as a sorbing material, which can be filled into the inner recess of the cylinder. It is important to remember that the container must not be tightly stacked. Inside the system, air must circulate freely.

Moisture separators of adsorptive type

To make such a moisture separator with your own hands for use in compressors, you need to use oil and water filters from the car. It is not necessary to change the original position of the body, connectors and drainage device to collect condensate.

The filter inlet needs to be changed. To do this, install a tube of solid steel. To ensure the stable operation of the device it is best to use a built-in filter. The second hole must be sealed tightly with a threaded plug. It must be sealed with a sealant to hold it in place better.

Between the inner wall of the body and the outer diameter of the filter there is an annular space. It must be filled with an adsorbent. The person who makes his own moisture separator, must remember that the absorption of moisture should be gradual. Rubber sealing rings are used for this purpose.

They can be used to divide the interior of the enclosure into three zones. If the dehumidifier will be used infrequently, the inner space and the annular gap can be filled with silica gel. After that, you can assemble the device and handle the connecting elements. If you follow these rules, you can make a moisture separator for the compressor with your own hands with minimal costs.

To calculate the necessary amount of silica gel, you must use the following formula: 1 kg of adsorbent for 830 l/min compressed air. Silica gel is a reusable material. To resume its original properties, you need to put the substance in the oven for 2-3 hours. Specialists recommend using silicate gel, which has a color indicator. When the pores will be filled with moisture, the color will change, and you can dry it.

Requirements for installation

When operating a moisture separator, it is necessary to take into account a few basic rules and requirements:

  • You can install the device in a strictly vertical position and fix it securely inside the case.
  • During connection, it is necessary to check the direction of air flow.
  • If you buy a complete design, then on the body of the direction indicated as arrows.

If these rules are followed, the moisture separator will function properly and provide high quality.

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