AC compressor bearing replacement Chery Amulet

Air conditioner compressor bearing replacement Chery Amulet

No thermostat cover gasket pictured in the original catalog, but it should be there. Can someone tell you the part number?

According to the specified part number there are two options. WV48B-88 и WV48BA-88, что может означать буква A? Found the gasket under number P102. Tama and Masuma have the same part numbers for thermostat and gasket, by the way.

I changed the radiator over the May holiday of 2021. It has been almost a year, it is now winter time.It is much warmer in the car.

When I have time and interest, I’ll try the old radiator again to flush or saw.

Your feedback about the chip tuning can be sent to me in private or posted below the article.

I’m guessing a pickup without a body. questionable idea. If you take the beast. I use it to cut down small pines.

Although, no one canceled the chrome ponce.

Serjik, found all of the paranit for VAZ 500 to 500mm thickness 1mm knocked out myself on the pallet, about pon or pmb sellers do not know anything, they say that the temperature up to 120 degrees, although such a temperature we do not happen there. will test.

a2a,If there is a simple cardboard paper lives, I think and paranit will be.

специально зарегался чтоб описать свои мытарства, мож кому еще будет полезно.

In general, everything like everyone else, washed, x.х. went up to 1200-1300 no dancing with tambourines did not help.

The symptoms manifested themselves in the fact that the RPM rather reluctantly fell after starting with some hangs at 1300-1400 then fell to 900-1000. That’s all I was able to achieve. On the run, the speed in general climbed to 1600-1700 car had to hold on the brake, coasting in neutral (mkpp) also kept 1600-1700 until the car stopped, then reluctantly fell to 1000.

As a result, tried all the methods found in the net, after removing and putting on the chip rpm fell, waited another 20 seconds (and 30 seconds, and a minute tried) but after turning off and then starting all over again. Won this all the same way:Without any preliminary on/off ignition and waiting, just started, warmed up (waited for on/off fans) brown connector / put it on did not help (RPM did not fall), discounted again (without stopping immediately), the third time RPM settled to the right

650 and I somewhere stumbled that some not so good. conscientious service guys stupidly unplug the idle valve cap, I decided to do the same thing temporarily, t.к. I should have gone tomorrow. I took it off and it didn’t change and shut it off. I started to check, ok 650, as prescribed by the doctor))) but! When I turn on the load (light, air conditioner, etc.), the idle valve springs back to normal, and the engine springs back to normal.т.п.) RPMs were dropping a lot and I almost stalled. Turned everything off, took the key out, waited a half a minute until the car “falls asleep”, put the lug on the CCB back on, started, grabbed it and immediately stalled, hmm. (already something new)) Re-started again, started like nothing happened, RPM jumped above 1000 and then stood at its lawful 650! Coolant, headlights, RPMs go up, it means that the CC is working fine. I fired up, shut it off, restarted a few more times, everything like in the book! That’s how I won)

TWO owners unite 1 2 3. 364 365 366 |
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Throttle, double QG18DE, almost no drive |
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Sunglasses with polarizing coating are great not only from the sun, but also “contrast” the view of the road and everything else in a fog, overcast, early morning and rain, are also good in winter when the sun “light up” the snow.

Chery Tiggo air conditioning compressor bearing replacement

The compressor is an important part of the air conditioner Chery Tiggo.

Today, depending on the design of the discharge element, compressors are divided into several different types:

  • Piston.
  • Axial piston.
  • Axial piston with oscillating slash washer.
  • Rotary.
  • Spiral or snail-shaped.

How to Remove and Replace an AC Compressor Clutch and Bearing. Quick Version

The choice of a particular type depends on the characteristics of the car model and manufacturer, but they all continue to be used.

The compressor of Chery Tiggo is an important part, which consists of of the pump and electromagnetic clutches. The latter is completed by a pulley through which the rotation is transmitted.

At work of the motor pulley It rotates without powering the rest of the air conditioning system. If the air conditioner is turned on during the operation of the car, the situation changes.

When the air conditioner is turned on, the clutch begins to magnetize, resulting in the transfer of rotation to the pump. Freon begins to circulate through the air conditioning system, which allows cooling the air before pumping it into the interior of the Chery Tiggo.

Problems with the compressor can occur for a variety of reasons, in particular, we may be talking about the following problems :

Among the reasons that lead to problems in the work of the compressor Chery Tiggo or turn it off are such factors :

  • Excessively high or low pressure in the refrigerant circuit, which can be detected by a tripped to the sensor.
  • No signal coming from the engine speed sensor.
  • Switching on the economical mode of engine work.
  • Decrease of temperature outside the saloon up to the value lower than 3 degrees.
  • The voltage in the network dropped below 9.5 V.
  • Excessive heating of coolant.
  • Control malfunction valves.
  • Problems with control units or sensors.
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Eliminate the problem as soon as possible after its detection. This will not only make your Chery Tiggo ride more comfortable, but also minimize the possibility of more serious damage.

In our case, it was the bearing of the air conditioner compressor that caused the whole system to stop working properly. Accordingly, it will have to be replaced.

How to repair air conditioner of Chery Amulet / Qiyun / Flagcloud / A15 since 1999

How to repair the air conditioner relay (tips from owners)

Relay 3, see photo 1 (it shows this magic number in big letters above) has poisoned the life of many people. I had it fail on the second day.

I had to remember my major. It opens simply. two plastic latches. There are actually 2 relays in the housing, one above the other. On the upper one pair of contacts to close. no problem, but on the lower one there are two of these pairs and they are separated by about a centimeter. The gap at one of the two pairs of contacts is smaller, so when the relay is triggered, the second pair simply does not have time to close.

Why the relay first works and then fails? On the one pair that has no contact, the contact force was originally smaller, t.е. Just barely touched, then it sparked, then there was a loss and as a consequence, the contact disappeared.

Fixed this defect with pliers with long thin ends: it is necessary to adjust the gap on the contacts to make and break them synchronously and completely flat, not at an angle.

Only fixed contacts can be bent, do not try to bend the contacts on the armature (spring-loaded mobile contacts).

Construction and exploitation of a car conditioner (advices of specialists)

An air conditioner, as well as many other aggregates of a car, demands constant care and service. What it consists in, we will talk after we recap briefly its structure.

Car air conditioner works according to the same principle as a usual domestic refrigerator, though it is organized in a bit different way. It represents the hermetic system, filled with freon and special refrigerating oil, which is soluble in liquid freon and is not afraid of low temperatures. Oil is necessary for compressor and all system lubrication.

Theoretically it would be possible to fill a conditioner even with usual propane, if it would not be so explosive. For refrigerating systems they have invented special chlorine-containing compounds which have the set of necessary characteristics besides safety. In spite of some differences between air conditioners of different manufacturers their principle diagram is the same. We will consider the most widespread variant (see “How to use a compressor at the same time”). diagram).

Automobile conditioner. So, when one presses the button on air conditioner the electromagnetic clutch works and the steel pressing disk 3 is magnetized to pulley 2 with a clicking sound. A pulley is set in motion with a belt and when an air conditioner is off it turns in idle mode. Now the compressor 1 is working. It compresses gaseous freon and that warms up strongly and drives it by pipeline to condenser 4 (among people it is often called a conditioner’s radiator). there is some truth in this, because in the condenser the strong heated and compressed freon is cooled.

The fan 5 which simultaneously switches on the first speed with the compressor helps the drive. If the car is moving. even better, the condenser is additionally blown with the air flow. After cooling down, the compressed Freon starts to condense and comes out of the condenser already liquid. Then the liquid freon flows through the receiver-drier 6. Here compressor wear products and other dirt are filtered from it.

Somewhere around the receiver-drier, often on the receiver itself, there is a sight-glass 9. Through it you can visually assess how full the system is. Unfortunately, not all cars have it.

Freon cleared in the receiver-dryer flows towards car interior to do its main work. The climax is reached when the liquid refrigerant flows through the thermostatic expansion valve (TEF) 10. The TRV is installed on the pipeline through which the liquid freon enters the evaporator. If the evaporator is completely immersed in liquid CFC, saturated vapor at boiling point will escape. The regulating organ of the turbo regulator closes. If from an evaporator comes out a vapor, which heating exceeds setting of TRV, then regulating body of TRV opens so that the area of its flow cross-section corresponds to permissible value. The TRV is essentially an automatically regulating throttle. Without going into thermodynamics we can compare TRV to the nozzle of an aerosol can.

As it passes through the expansion valve and into the evaporator, the freon turns to a gaseous state (boils) and is greatly cooled. Evaporator 12 is the same radiator, only smaller. The ice-cold Freon cools the evaporator and the fan 13 blows the cold from the evaporator into the vehicle interior. After passing through the evaporator, the still quite cold Freon goes back to the compressor. The circle is closed.

The part of the system from the compressor to the TRV is called the pressure line. It can always be identified by the thin tubes, which are warm or hot. The part from the evaporator to the compressor is called the return line, or low pressure line. It’s made of thick tubing and feels icy to the touch. If during work of the compressor the pressure in a pressure line fluctuates from 7 to 15 atm (in emergency cases up to 30 atm), the pressure in the pressure line should be between 5 to 25 atmospheres.), the pressure in the return flow does not exceed one or two atmospheres. When the conditioner is switched off, pressure in both lines equalizes and makes about five atmospheres.

Several sensors monitor the correct operation of the system. Their number varies. In our case, on receiver-dryer 6 there is sensor 7 to switch on the second fan speed. When cooling of the condenser is not enough (for example, when you stop in a traffic jam) pressure in the pressure line starts to grow quickly and freon in the condenser stops to condense. Sensor reacts to pressure jump and turns on fan 5 at full blast. The sensor 8 switches off the compressor if the pressure in the pressure line reaches prohibitive values. Sensor 11 switches off the compressor if the evaporator temperature becomes too low.

This is, actually, all that it is possible to tell about the device and work of automobile conditioner. And now let’s talk about its maintenance.

In a car air conditioner the compressor is subject to mechanical wear most of all. Other elements (except fans) are immovable. But more often it is not the compressor that breaks down first, but the condenser. heat exchanger mounted in front of the engine radiator. It is under pressure (up to 20 atm).) and constantly experiences the influence of the salt, dirt, etc., flying from the road. п. Corrosion, vibration, mechanical stress lead to formation of microcracks in it and to the refrigerant leakage. To prolong term of its service life, as well as the life of other details of the conditioner, it is necessary to keep under-hood space in cleanliness. The condenser must be flushed particularly thoroughly in the spring. Besides, contamination of condenser in general is often the only reason of improper operation of the air conditioner.

In the process of underhood space washing it is useful to check reliability of mechanical fastening of pipes. freon pipes. If any tube vibrates, it is necessary to fix it.

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Also while exploiting a car with an air conditioner it is useful to check more often the oil level in the engine, coolant level in the radiator, tension of a belt of aggregates drive. It is connected with the increased load on the engine, which is created by working conditioner.

Usually there is no need to take any special measures to prepare an air conditioner for a summer season. One can only recommend to check its condition before the warm days and if one suspects some insufficient efficiency or malfunction, to visit service for diagnostics and filling up the conditioner. In our country they usually postpone it till the last moment, and with the beginning of warm days in all companies, servicing conditioners there are long lines.

A condenser that has been in service for five or seven years almost always has numerous s of corrosion, particularly at the attachment points. It becomes contaminated with a distinctive dripping oil stain in the area where the micro-cracks appear. Such condenser must be replaced at the next vehicle service. Attempts to weld it are most often doomed to failure. the problem will soon reappear, possibly in the place of another corrosion center. But some firms that have good argon-arc welding equipment and qualified specialists sometimes manage to do it.

The refrigerant is a volatile substance that plays the role of a heat transmitter while circulating inside the circuit of the cooling system. Several types of refrigerant are available, the Freon range includes: R-11, R-12, R-14, R-21, R-22. Of these, Freon R-12 is used in cars.

The reason of impossibility to use other freon series refrigerants in automobiles are the following peculiarities:

R-11: if it exceeds the boiling point of 23,77 ºС, it spreads well in lubricating oils. Therefore used as a vehicle A/C system cleaner.

R-14: temperature point of gas-to-liquid transformation.45.5 ºC, which is very low.

R-21: although weak, it is poisonous and has a high boiling point.

R-22: has rubber dissolving properties, rubber gaskets can’t be used.

Features of R-12 freon gas used in automobiles are as follows

  • Great “latent” heat of vaporization, easily transforms into liquid.
  • Does not combust or explode.
  • Chemically stable and does not change.
  • Not poisonous. No oxidation property.
  • Does not spoil food and clothing.
  • easy to buy.

Polyalkylene-glycol oil (PAG) with refrigerant (R-134a) and mineral oil with (R-12) are used.

In automobiles with the new refrigerant (R-134a), compressor oil with specification used in current refrigerants (R-12) is used as lubricant of o-ring when working in connecting parts. At work of the main line and lines it is required to be careful, because during lubrication with compressor oil of the new refrigerant (R-134a) on the sealing ring there is a phenomenon of hydrogenation.

When working on the main line and lines, caution is required because when comparing the absorption capacity of compressor oil of a new refrigerant (R-134a) under other equal conditions its value is approximately 180 times higher than that of compressor oil of the currently used refrigerant. With compressor oil, cars with the new refrigerant (R-134a) have the same charging volume as cars with the current refrigerant (R-12).

In recent years, due to the rapid development of compressors, development of lightweight small compressors and application of new refrigerant, the requirements for the role of refrigeration oil have become more severe. The role of refrigeration oil is important as a link to ensure the long-term safety of the air-conditioning system and resistance to higher and lower temperatures.

Outlet valve: In the compressor the outlet valve section is the most high-temperature place. On this area there is formation of carbon and it is impossible to prevent its layering.

Condenser: the largest amount of oil in the refrigerant system, along with the liquid refrigerant must be kept liquid so as not to impede heat transfer or flow from solidification on the walls of the condenser.

Equal pressure piping and expansion valve: the oil must not contain solids that interfere with expansion, or create similar substances.

Evaporator: during the cooling cycle of the oil in the evaporator, which is the lowest temperature part, crystalline precipitation must not form. In addition, the oil must not contain moisture and must not harden. If such phenomena occur, they interrupt the flow of refrigerant and reduce the cooling efficiency.

How to use the air conditioner correctly (expert advice)

1) To cool the interior faster, first roll down all the windows and ventilate the car for a couple of minutes. Then switch on air conditioner on the necessary high capacity and direct air stream through central and side deflectors. Do not direct the cold air stream at the glasses, because of the temperature drop they may crack.

2) After a couple of minutes, when air becomes cool, and only then, turn a fan on low rotational speed and air supply. to legs.

3) Do not forget that in conditions of intensive city traffic, air conditioning system overloads and may cause overheating of the engine. Therefore, look at the scale of coolant during driving: gauge on the dashboard should not exceed 100 degrees. If the indicator reaches the red mark, switch off air conditioner.

4) How not to catch cold from air conditioner? With frequent temperature changes (street. car) the body experiences temperature stress, so no matter how hot it is, do not cool the cabin very much, the temperature difference should be within 5 ° C. The optimal temperature for a person 22-24 ° C.

5) What position should be set on switch of air circulation mode (so that it must come from outside or only inside)? If you need to quickly cool the air inside, put it on “cabin only” mode for a while, but after 10-15 minutes return the circulation to the outside. Otherwise, the humidity in the passenger compartment will increase, and the windows will mist up.

6) Remember a rule: if you switch on air conditioner. close windows. And vice versa. Otherwise double cross draught quickly becomes the cause of summer sore throat.

7) Try not to get under the direct direction of air flow, set it so that the air disperses evenly.

8) No matter how hot it is outside, from time to time switch off air conditioner and open windows: air inside a car is more polluted than the most gassy highway, and in air condition systems with time fungous deposit and bacteria are accumulated. In order not to breathe in such microorganisms once or twice a year change air filters for new ones and clean air conditioning system.

Why not to switch on air conditioner in winter period (advice of specialists)

It is impossible to switch on the air conditioner (car or household) below 5 ºС for the following reasons:

The compressor uses a special polyester oil, which does not provide its lubricating properties at low temperatures.

As the drain pipe leads a condensate out on the street, at subzero temperatures it freezes, and the condensate will flow into the interior of the car.

Since the compressor and the condenser (air conditioner radiator) are outside, at subzero temperatures freon condenses in them: that is, where it is colder, there is freon. It is in a liquid phase and when the air conditioner is on, a water shock can occur. As the compressor is a gas machine for compression of gases, and if freon is in a liquid, and liquids, as it is known, are not compressible, a hydrostroke is ensured. the compressor will fail. Also many times there are loads on the compressor, as the oil is cold and thick, starting the compressor is difficult, and most importantly, that all the oil is expelled into the evaporator (in the internal unit) and the compressor works almost without lubrication, which greatly reduces its life.

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Heat capacity of condenser is calculated on conditions of its summer operation, and usually the fan has a mode of operation “start-stop”, i.e.е. there is no smooth regulation of the condenser fan speed, and at low outdoor temperatures the fan will work in cyclic mode, “on/off.”, “on-off”, and the period of operation will be short because the freon discharge pressure will rapidly drop when the fan is on.

Cleaning the air conditioner evaporator (tips of owners)

Each owner of automobile with air conditioner or climate-control sooner or later faces a problem with unpleasant smell at start of air conditioner. Even if there are no smokers in your car, you can still hear unpleasant smells from evaporator. This is due to the fact that the moisture collected on the evaporator, during its operation, is a factor contributing to the development of various bacteria, which, in turn, are the source of unpleasant smells. By the way, the same is true for home split systems and air conditioners.

With time all owners of air conditioners in a car ask the same question: what does it smell (stink) in my car?? Why is it that when you turn the ignition on, when the fan starts to work, a jet of incense is blowing in your face?? Air conditioner departments always give an unambiguous answer: wash the evaporator (this is the thing that makes the cold: the air flows through it and blows cool air in your face and legs). And they name the price: 70-90. Although, the answer, containing only part of the answer, is alarming. Coherently they answer that the procedure lasts 4 hours. That’s all I could find out from them:

I wondered what and how they could be doing in that time? Knowing our services, you can safely spend an hour and a half for the acceptance of the order and delivery of the work to the client. It takes up to an hour to find a free box and move the car to the customer. Half an hour can be safely spent on preparing the servicemen themselves for work and removal of traces of dirty robes from car seats. One hour to go. Well, let’s say two. Since we need to disinfect the evaporator, we still have to get to it. That’s also time. with half an hour for those in the know, it will be enough to get to the evaporator and put everything back in its place. So it’s not a hard and fast procedure.

Why in summer when we turn on the fan after parking the car in the sun or in the heat (especially after a short period of parking) there is a wave of smell in your face comparable to the one that you felt when you opened the washing machine where the wet laundry you forgot a week ago was sitting?

First about the origin, the source of the odor.

When we turn off the engine, the air conditioning goes off. And the cold ducts and the evaporator get humid hot air from the street. Getting on the cold parts of the air ducts and the evaporator, the moisture instantly condenses from the air. And if it’s only water. The composition of the moisture is wide. Moisture mixes with the dirt and dust in the system, dampening the mold, fungus and bacteria that are inevitably there. That’s the smell. When air conditioner is working, the moisture is forced out into interior and dehumidifies the air ducts. But some of it stays when you turn off the fan. And every time you turn it on, it adds moisture, multiplying the bacterial colonies. And over the years, the smell exceeds the tolerance of our noses.

What to do to prevent the problem?

The first suggested answer is to keep the system dry, if possible switching off an air conditioner shortly before we come to a parking place. It allows the condensed moisture to dry out with a stream of warm air and reduces the subsequent condensation of moisture, raising the temperature of the air ducts. But it won’t solve the odor problem.

Here comes the solution to the problem as suggested by the service. disinfection. So it kills the bacteria.

How to do it and what services can do it with? Clearly, chlorine will solve all the problems. But driving in a gas mask sharply reduces the driver’s view. Let’s go to medical facilities and ask what they disinfect all the things they are supposed to disinfect?

Answer: LIZOL aka KREZOL solution on soap-oil base. Used for disinfecting surgical instruments, hands before surgery, operating rooms and toilets, among other things! And also for killing flies, the source of cholera, etc.д. What is this miracle, in its disinfectant properties superior to all known (and even chlorine)? It is phenol. And it is on the basis of this phenol are produced professional preparations for disinfection of air conditioners in cars, schools, hospitals, motels, etc.п. And these professional products cost up to 40 for 12 pieces of 250 gram cans! Т.е. per 3 liters. For one treatment of the vehicle manufacturer recommends using ½ can of the product. Well, let’s say, at the service stations they use one spray can for safety. I won’t say any more.

Get Lysol concentrate or Lysol-containing solutions (there are even odors).

Dilute pure LISOOL in the ratio of 1:100 (surgical instruments are disinfected at 1:20) to obtain 300-400 ml. of solution.

Pour the solution into a hand sprayer or an empty glass cleaner jar, add odorants if desired.

Start the car, switch on air conditioner at full power, turn on maximum fan. Direct the air jet into the face/legs in the passenger compartment by lowering the nozzles.

Get out of the car and use the sprayer to spray the disinfectant into the air intake holes near the windshield. Try not to economize and not to pour a jet, but to sprinkle the fog: this is what a normal sprinkler should do. This was air duct disinfection, which services don’t write about (they only talk about the evaporator).

Turn off the engine. Wait about ten minutes. let the lysol do its unequal battle for the bacteria.

turn on the engine (we didn’t touch air conditioner and fan. they start working as much as possible). Opening the car from the passenger side. Turn on the internal air recirculation (close the airflow from the outside). Windows are open. We sprinkle, sparingly, the water dust under the feet of the passenger, under the glove box (glove box). That’s where the air intake is in recirculation mode. The air goes to the evaporator and goes further through the system. If possible, it is a good idea to get to the evaporator and pour a lot of water on it. But this will do (at this cost of the procedure and the possibility of regular repetition). Turn off the ignition. If necessary (if the smell still bothers you) repeat after a day.

By the way, it’s even used to remove the smell from the grill in restaurants! Clean air to all!

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